Hi! Your spark plug cables are in wrong order by a lot from what I can see. First you need to keep in mind that these SAAB engines spins anti-clock wise so timing is 1-3-4-2 from bottom right to left and the second thing is the order from distributor cap is also out if I see correctly. You have first cylinder to hooked up to third, third is now going to first, fourth goes to second and second is now going to fourth. Because YT does not allow links, I cannot link pic to correct order but it is in owner’s manual. I have been working with these SAAB since age of 10 so I now thing or two about them so if u have any questions please let me know.

As a 58-yeard old man used to working on older cars I did smile at your descrition on the main jet & piston. A bit like watching a video of someone describing an old style telephone explaining how “I think you’re supposed to stick your finger in the hole with the number you need, rotate it clockwise and then release it” … 😁

The engine bay and the engine itself looks well laid out, easy to work on. Signs of a well designed vehicle. The SAAB 900 is worthy of restoration. Nice work.

Check crack in distributor cap (like hair) and change rotation arms inside.Also check spark cable order ,maybe you change 2 and 3 cable order if engine rotation on other side than you think.

Try not to worry about not making huge leaps and bounds each video. You made a lot of progress on this Saab so far. Thanks for keeping it real. The struggle is real!

Waking up to a new Memphis video on a Sunday morning is bliss. I wish I could offer some ideas to remedy the backfire issue but you’re already way more accomplished than me. The previous owner obviously had a bucket of blue silicone they were determined to use up, man that was everywhere. As always, I think you’re some kind of genius Memphis, keep up the great work / content / humour 👏👏👏

It's so inspiring to see you working on those carburators. You have a golden patience we millenials don't have anymore so often haha :)

Worth restoring because Saab engines are wasy to work on and the 900 is very rare. Keep up the good work :D

That pine green c900 is indeed a smokeshow!💚It's fun to see both you & Auto Autopsy working on these.🌎

Never followed your channel but as a saab guy(I own three) I'm now hooked on seeing where you go from there. Good job and I hope those cars treat you well!

Just 2 things to say about this video Memphis 1) You are very thorough! 2) Your videos are addictive to watch. One of the best Channels on KZfaq! Brilliant upload 😀.

Backfiring is generally a timing issue. However it seems to be a fuelling problem as it's only when you rapidly open the throttle. Maybe it's a jet? I don't really know carbs. I went injected as soon as I could afford it

She is a peach! Nice work buddy!

Hi Memphis! Love your video’s! I just noticed that when you were installing the thermostat that you did not put the thermostat in the gasket at 16:40. This will ensure that the thermostat seals on both sides. I was planning to replace the thermostat on my Saab 900 as well. Good luck with the project.

I think the carburator is the answer. Congratulations for all the very well done work you make...👏👏👏

Great progress again - like your trouble shooting skills and solution thinking. My guess is there is some vacuum leak ....

I rarely make comments but I have watched a lot of your videos and you give me confidence to try things with my vehicles. Well done!

That large internal thread on the bottom of the Stromberg 175 that looks empty is likely due to there once being adjustability. I recall a whole assembly to move the jet that actually went through the float bowl chamber on my first car, a 1970 Volvo 145S. I suspect it was eliminated by the time this SAAB was produced.

De membraam van deze carbu gaan zeer veel stuk ! Klein gaatje is al voldoende voor problemen. Als wegenwachter testen we dit door gewoon plastiek tussen membraan te steken. zo kom klant verder rijden . Lijkt me ook een klein probleem , hopelijk gok ik juist !

Best way to start any Sunday

Awesome progress. It will be probably be something 'simple' to get it right. Looking forward to the next video. Fan Sydney Australia 🇦🇺

A long time ago, I replaced a burnt out valve which involved skimming the head, new valves, lapping, head gasket etc. When attempting start it after reassembly, it behaved similarly to your SAAB. I thought I'd followed the workshop manual religiously and it did feel like it wanted run but was being held back and was spitting. After running out of ideas, I asked my friend who was familiar with those engines, he removed the dashpot of the carb and immediately noticed that the oil that I had put in there was way too thick in viscosity. We changed it for a thinner oil and after this, it ran perfectly. Don't know if this is your issue but I thought I'd throw it in there. Great work Memphis, love the colour. Be sure to keep the garage well ventilated when revving your engine, carbon monoxide can be fatal.

After cleaning your gas tank, I'd replace the fuel filter a few times in quick succession.

Mijn Volvo 164 heeft 2 soortgelijke carbs. Ook aanduiding 172CD maar dan van Stromberg. De schroefdraad onderaan in de vlotterkamer dient om met speciale tools de hoogte van de sproeier in te stellen, daarmee regel je uiteindelijk ook de CO. Wat betreft die misfire of backfire (kan ik niet goed uitmaken), deze had ik recent na het wisselen van de rotor. Had een foutief model ontvangen, er was amper zichtbaar verschil maar het resulteerde in net hetzelfde, hetzij dan wel tijdens het rijden, niet stationair. Oude rotor er terug in, probleem weg.

It's a good practice to oil the butterfly valve shaft with oil regularly,which I didn't see you doing. It wears out in time and will lean the mixture.

Check the HT leads are in the right order I would suggest.

loving this series

Lovely Jubbly video, the previous restorer definitely liked blue silicone sealant, thanks for sharing your work and good luck sorting the engine problems.

I always found it weird that Saab in Europe continued to sell carb cars alongside FI models. My first Saab was a 1980 99 GLi with mechanical injectors. It ran great.

Other commenters have pointed out other advice, so one more i'll add is to check whether the Top-Dead-Centre mark is correct and nobody moved it. Just take out the first cyl spark plug and rotate it until the cylinder is at TDC and check if the mark fits. Otherwise, ye, vacuum leak sounds like it could be it - Just take some brake clean and spray it around the intake when its running and if it starts to rev, its a leak.

As a car rookie i can't be more than amazed when i watch your videos. You have really good knowledge and i think you will solve the problem like every other time. Greetings from Sweden btw Really fun to see your obession with Swedish cars😆🇸🇪

Stromberg carburetor and SU work on engine vacuum. the piston gets drawn up by engine Not the throttle cable as you suggested. The rubber diaphragm IF it gets even a TINY pinhole?? It will run badly!! The smoke was black which indicates a rich mixture, also wondering make SURE New HT leads are on the correct spark plug because it was popping and banging, the oil in the carb is damper shock absorber to help control the piston.

Hi Memphis, I really enjoy to look yours videos You motive me to take more time to work on my projects ! I want to do the same things you done in yours videos ! I'm passionate like you , Thanks to share this with us !

I feel the BLUEs from Memphis. Good work. Thank you for the upload!

Thanks to show how to repair the fuel pump. I have got a Saab 900 around here, which has got the same malaise as well. And we here were still arguing how much work it might be to fix it. Thanks for that.

You are right that there is no gasket between the choke and carb body, it's just two finely machined surfaces that seal. You have to be careful not to damage them and also make sure they are very clean when installing. The hole in the bottom of the float chamber is just left over from a previous version of the carb when the mixture adjustment was on the bottom.

Very motivational. It's raining so I'm now heading out to rebuild my 900 suspension ready for engine and gearbox to be refitted

keep it up Respect From Norway!

For Future reference:. A product called Ospho will convert Rust to Ash. It works great and can be used for anything.

Awesome job. Would love to see a turbo version getting the same treatment!

Valve lash, that's your culprit my friend!

Very nice to see these monuments getting back to life. I saw last week in Lille one of those 900 and the rust issue seems to be the same for them all.

Excellent skill set…good luck with sorting the bugs out…super impressive.

I found making a new starter/alternator loom for my Peugeot 206 quite rewarding work. Also I got to buy the hydraulic terminal crimper to do it which is a really nice tool.

Great video as always. BTW, not sure if you tackled the thermostat housing in between takes, but the neck that connects to the upper radiator hose looks a little bit pitted and probably won’t seal all that well once the hose expands with temperature. If you can’t find a good replacement, consider fixing it epoxy to make smooth and water tight.

I have no suggestions, but it was very satisfying to watch

Thanks for another great video! :)

Great way to end a Saturday, Memphis. Love this video series. When it comes to the high tension leads from battery to solenoid/starter and ground I never bother to mess with old wires. By the time I pay for the ends, solder, and flux it is almost the same price as brand new1 gauge cables. That way I know none of the copper strands have broken or corroded. Then again, most of my cars have been giant old North American boats. I regularly replaced factory alternators with either 150 amp or 200 amp units, and ran batteries with 1,100 cold cranking amps or greater. It was quite the sight to see a late 70s Ford Thunderbird giving a boost to a semi truck, otherwise known as an articulated lorry. I would not dare do that with the Volvo. Robert Bosch would haunt me!

AMAZINGNES!!!

5:05 - M539Restorations E38 750iL (Project Dubai) flashbacks from valvecover gasket replacement

Great video man, I learn a lot from this! I would like to start one something myself once I move into my new house next year. barely knowledge yet, but everything can be learned ;)

Nice Ramones T-shirt

Heel toffe videos kerel! Kijk uit naar de volgende video 🇧🇪

Well done great job love the video

Great job Memphis......I'm loving this content.....keep up the good work, I will always support you as much as I can, you remind me of myself, when I was your age ....much love ❤❤❤

Hi! About the threads on the carb! The earlier versions of those stromberg cd-s had adjustable jets and they had a screw that went into those threads that raised or lowered the jet.. the bump on the bowl would have been a hole with an o ring to allow the screw to be adjusted. I hope that answers your question. Your carb is later and so has emission regs and therefore has an adjustable needle which needs a special tool to adjust

Brilliant video. Congrats on the start up. You are definitely winning 😇

Thank God you uploaded! I was so bored I was watching Rebuild Rescue. I know. I'm not proud.

Hi Memphis, another cool episode with the Saab, good to see you have your way around carburetors, not many "kids" of your age know how they work. Lets hope someone can help with the backfire.

In the beginning you mentioned "...for our entertainment....". And boy was it entertaining again :)

Try taking off off plug lead at a time, if one removed has no effect then it's plug/HT lead, if more than one re-check your firing order, remember engine is a back to front Triumph engine on these cars. Additionally if the head has been off it could be cam timing or incorrect valve gap. I believe the cam buckets are shimmed for correct gap. When the head was refitted they may have mixed up shims. Oh one last thing those Stromberg diaphragms were notorious for failing/splitting on a very regular basis, would recommend meticulous visual check of diaphragm for any tiny holes or splits. When I had a Parts and Accessories shop in the 1980's and 1990's I must have sold thousands of them. The most common fix back then was to swap it for a SU HS6 or twin HS4 or HS6 carbs. From memory, I think, the twin HS6 and manifold set up from Triumph TR7 may be a straight swap, if they are easily available over there. Hope all that helps.

Excellent work Memphis....on this Saab an also the BMW e28.

Thoroughly enjoy your projects! Wishing you continued success!!

Has anyone ever seen the movie Crazy People with Dudley Moore and Daryl Hannah? There was a guy in the mental hospital who they called Saabs, because that's literally all he would talk about. His favorite car was a 1977 Saab 99 GLE.

Hi from uk 👋👍 good start to getting this one back to life👌 and as you already checked timing etc I would maybe think vacuum leak so use carb or brake cleaner and spray a mist round intake manifold and areas of vacuum lines also maybe a overfuelling as its when you stamp in throttle ( maybe that bit thats missing from threaded area in carb you pointed out or stick main jet? But these are just guesses from me not really a carb guy but if it helps or maybe the main carb spring lost its potential? Thanks for your time and be safe see you soon👍👋

hi Memphis, this is my first time commenting but ive watched many videos, i found your channel with the Gretta videos, love that car, im from the UK, the 900 is very popular here i also own a classic but its not a Saab, its known to you as a Ford Sierra with 1,6 pinto engine from 1992, search Ford Sierra Azura hatch in silver and u will see wot i own fabulous vids and knowledge keep em coming, good luck, ps lovely collection of cars inc the Audi

Great video and so awesome you got this thing up and running!

Check the Rotor, and connections and if the Rotor housing has a crack that changes the spark jump from the Rotor to the points. (If the Rotor or points are a bit corroded wipe it with a sandpaper). Check the diafram in the vacuum retard on the Rotor housing. Check sparkplug gap and if they're wet. As i noticed some slight detonations on higher RPM. You could also lap the valves if there's any blowby. (It's a fairly good way to make sure it's tight.) Lastly check every single ventilation systems.

Can’t help the running issue but after having used a similar crimp ring tool, if you use it horizontally rather then vertically , you can push down against the floor or the bench and it’s a lot easier to apply pressure. Looking forward to next episode.

it looks so easy

Congrats on the first start!!!

your workwear is Swedish too... Used to have one of those Saab's. Remember one time in the north of Sweden when it had been -25 degrees during the night. That old thing was the only thing that started so I jumpstarted the rest of the cars that all had fuel injection. Some other interesting memories with that car and basically it's built like a tank. Just watch out for the valve cover gasket so that it seals properly, don't know how many Saab's have had to level the valve cover over the years.

I suggest an air leak in the intake or in the depression circuit, I had the same misfires on my bike and it was a depression durit which was crackled. Hope it helps! Keep up the perfect work dude!

Looks great already, watching your videos is giving me confidence to find my own classic project, but I can't weld so need to find a rust free one 🤯

That moment when you turn the car and the engine turns. exciting times ahead. good progrees

Good luck man! I just made my own step too- bought a Volvo 740 2.3L Turbo. Its half done so I will need your patience too. Still a lot to do. I had a sad face when guy from workshop told that they don’t make new flywheels for these cars anymore, but still I will get my old one restored. So I understand how mutch headaches these cars can give, but thats the fun right? I would never change my old brick to something new and ordinary.. Have a nice day and I hope you will get your answers!

Eindelijk een nieuwe aflevering! 👍🏻

Hey! I love your content and I have been watching almost all videos. One reguest would be that you explain those thing that you mention to be obvious. Those things might be obvioust to you and other car enthusiasts but for me and other novices those things need to be explained.❤

Great Video as usual Memphis! I Can't wait to see more!

And he’s back !

@ 17h22 Lightning hoses ala Derek from Vice Grip Garage. 🙂

Another great video. Well done getting her running

Yessss ! Het belangrijkste is de mototr loopt, en ja dan dan misschien niet voor de 100% maar waarom daar zul jij zeker wel achterkomen !! Wat mij opvalt is dat er zoveel ruimte is om aan deze motor te sleutelen, als de auto,s van tegenwoordig ziet is er soms geen doorkomen aan en dan zijn het ook nog vaak motoren met een kleine inhoud, maar ook veel meer electronica die het er niet gemakkelijker op maken. Maar deze SAAB heeft gelukkig nog weinig te doen met electronica en dat zal het sleutelen extra leuk maken. Nu dus het opsporen van het niet helemaal lekker lopen van deze motor, en hoewel ik een complete Leek ben wat techniek aangaat vind ik het nog steeds reuze interessant om te zien hoe of jij oplossingen vindt voor soms vele problemen. Graag tot de volgende episode en tot die tijd blijf gezond en hopelijk tot snel !

Super work Mr memphis I'm sure you will fix it soon 👍

I really like your videos for saab please keep it up.

After building your lovely L shaped work bench and storage area, would it be a good plan to sand and varnish the workbench top, to avoid marks such as oil and dirt from parts that you place on the bench. As it would then be sealedIt would also make the bench easier to wipe down after a dirty job. As you seem to be a guy who likes the place to be neat and tidy, I just thought that sealing the bare wood on the bench would keep it cleaner. Great channel, thank you.

Another awesome video, as always your work is outstanding 😃 Loving every video.

You don't have enough blue goo in the engine. Nice clean up job. I would replace the plunger in the carb if you haven't already done so then all the parts are new. You will get there its coming along nicely.

Two things come to my mind, what can cause a problem,one its module, that you said you already order, and the second is that camshaft maybe is ware off, and that can maybe cause problem. Check if every knuckle of camshaft have same length..

It sounds like you could have a sticky valve with the popping sound, I would check the valves to make sure that have full travel

once we had car that did similar things. the fix was loose chain. The timing was correct but the loose chain throwed it out a bit. It had same symptoms.

greetings from Mexico my friend, awesome videos!!

Du bist ein so guter Schrauber, Du könntest in meiner Werkstatt ( engel-fahrzeugservice) arbeiten 👍👍

Nice vid man! I think you installed the thermostat o-ring wrong. As you can see at 16:40. Its a slit in the o-ring where you put the thermostats egde in so it will be centered. If my eyes didnt lie, you put the thermostat directly in the housing and the o-ring over it! Might cause a leak, might not. But wanted you to know! Have a good day!

In my experience with this kind of problem, although a different type of carburetor, the problem can be that the carburetor has to be able to "pump" a small amount of petrol just before and while the air flap opens. And that is because it will always be a little delay from the second you open the air flap until the "vacuum effect" is obtained, in order to "suck" the necessary quantity of petrol to the respective amount of air.

In addition to NGK plugs, Bougicord is the recommended wires for Saab.

Well done. It’s coming along nicely.

Sound like the firing order is of, its 1342 and remember the engine is backwards so cylinder 1 is furthest back toward the firewall. Or possibly leaking intake valve? Great video 😊

really enjoying this channel, glad I found it. Google must know I just bought an e28. Anyway, maybe next time you clean a valve cover you could take off the baffle before hand? Might make your life easier and cleaner. Or not, what do I know?

I still say get the 16v engine and swap engine the full wiring looms over into the green shell, a lot less hassle than a carb, and more reliable on a daily basis