As Sorin said "you are the hero" bravo for donating the laptop to the kids. I've learning so much on each video that he uploads :) Sorin & @ Karotinos greetings from Rhodes,Greece

@@ManolisPappou better will be teach kids repair laptops, not playing games on them :D

Hello... I have same problem, no Power no light... Yours did the same? I'm not sure how to find the capacitors.

@@franciscoverissimo2046 Just like the video. unscrew everything and use your nose to smell burnt capacitors or a magnifying glass. Capacitors are as big as 1/4 of a grain of rice. I had to remove 4 and pray for it to work but it did work on the first try. instagram.com/p/CAiSYsOg35r/ I took this photo of my capacitors

is the board oversized with capazitors? why you dont need to replace it and just removing it?

@@BlacKi-nd4uy Depending of de position and funtion of the cap. it is not needed to replace. In this case it is part of multiple cap's in power supply. It can work fine without this cap. If you have the time and the replacement cap. than you can replace, great. If no part or no time.... also good.

@@paulodagraca3469 thanks

mee too

​@@paulodagraca3469 a cap is suppose to be in line with other caps which will bare the current going through them, if you have 3 caps on same power rail and one of them is dead the other two will bare the current and overheat which will case a quicker fault and may also deliver unstable current under load to its designated location specially on powerful laptops, on low end laptops no one cares but this is a gaming laptop which will be put under stress and high power draw which will cause either unstable current to its location most likely will be filtered and be ok but the caps on the rail will overheat and die faster. so if a customer paying you to do a job, doing a dodgy job is not going to cut it.

Yes it has an affect but its a very very small one and the power rail has so many of them that its not usually a big deal to remove one. Personally I think its better to replace them but that is ultimately between the customer and the shop. In most cases customers dont know or want to know whats wrong and what it took to fix the problem, they just want it working again.

Alvaro Gomes instagram.com/p/B1t0Lmthprm/?igshid=1ob6favqod7qa

Maybe test the MOSFETs out of circuit?

if you pay attention you will see that he applies external PSU power using multimeter tips directly to the circuit point where he believes the short is located (often around power mosfets, coils, diodes and surrounding caps) …. he manually limits the output current of his PSU to avoid blow up the component, then while applying that external voltage he looks for components getting hot (which indicates the faulty one) and uses Zippo petrol as a visual help (petrol evaporates fast near a hot component). While doing so he disconnects the charger and laptop battery to avoid damages from external PSU. Cheers

Thanks for your explanation. I'm a bit of a noob still. Cheers

Did you find a replacement?

interested as well. Overheated and burned that component. Wont start.

its there to handle the current and reduce unstable current flow to its destination, which in this case not critical but will cause other resistors to die faster since they need to bare the current with the missing cap from line.

Desolder and test with multimeter in diode mode?

@@NeuronalAxon you mean remove 1st in the motherboard?

@@JazzEnso - Yeah, or snip a leg if it's an easy fix afterwards if it checks out OK. It's often a pain not having a bench PSU to test things with. EDIT: If it's and SMD cap, then desoldering it completely from the board would be the way to go, if testing it in circuit is impossible.

You can use a battery in series with amp mode on your multimeter to get a similar effect. However limiting the current is a bit harder. If you are doing electronics you really want a good power supply, though.

Zippo lighter fluid :)

Master, Teacher, Genius, Professor Electronics, Guru,............. All Apply

Ya that's cool

It depends on how much amps you will apply on it. It should still go hot if you apply like 3 or more amps but you need a linear power supply

Dragos Cristian Ok. But will this work for safer sort detections as I refer to? Or it will destroy things like having 19V?

That's a good question.. I was wondering about that too

Q2 : what makes the component hot is the current (amps), not the volts. If you pay attention Sorin sets its external PSU manually to, for instance 5V then also manually limits current to 3 amps, to avoid that the faulty component takes more than that and goes boom, its a limitation for security. Then he applies that power to the circuit : if a short is present voltage will drop to near 0 volts and current raises to 3 amps (previously manually limited) through the shorted component, which gets hot. the limited current can be adjusted as per how fast you want that shorted component to get hot, but beware of the risk that too much current can blow up the component or worse a pcb track !

odium So, either 5V or 19V, if you go crazy with amps, the damage will be the same. Ok. I think this is my answer!