Adam Ondra #58: No Fear - Belaying

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Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra

4 жыл бұрын

ČESKÉ TITULKY JSOU DOSTUPNÉ V NASTAVENÍ VIDEA
After the last week's episode dedicated to falling, we will take a look at the other side of the rope now. Belaying is an important part and I am definitely picky about my belayer when it comes to sending on my limit. I am not only speaking about safety but also about the speed of giving me slack quickly enough. Find out more about how it is to belay me and a few safety tips as well.
Credits:
Story by
ADAM ONDRA
Directed by
LACO KORBEL
Camera
PAVEL KLEMENT
Archive Footage
PETR PAVLÍČEK
BIG UP PRODUCTIONS
BERNARDO GIMÉNEZ
MARTIN KAŇŮREK
BEN DITTO
NICO FAVRESSE
PAVEL BLAŽEK
JAKUB PÍNA
Edited by
ADAM LIGOCKI
Production
JAKUB PÍNA
Executive Producer
PAVEL BLAŽEK
Subs by
JARKA MARČEKOVÁ
© 2020 AO Production s.r.o.
#climbingtips #belaying #climbing #safety #adamondra

Пікірлер: 185
@eliastew9636
@eliastew9636 4 жыл бұрын
1:39 “Adam’s most favorite belayer” that’s super cute
@yuteyang6811
@yuteyang6811 4 жыл бұрын
"Adam often leaves out protection, with pleasure" Soon we will have a newborn climbing baby.
@Selxxz51pgm
@Selxxz51pgm 4 жыл бұрын
Hahhahah
@pavelbelik6174
@pavelbelik6174 4 жыл бұрын
:DD unfortunatelly, in Czech language the joke does't exist :D.
@robertmifkovic6325
@robertmifkovic6325 Жыл бұрын
@@pavelbelik6174 ako ze nie? Adam s potesenim rad vynechava ochranu
@pavelbelik6174
@pavelbelik6174 Жыл бұрын
@@robertmifkovic6325 Well it could be if you say it your way, bu Ivka says "Adam vynechává jištění velmi často."... so what she says cannot result in any jokes in CZ :D
@pavelbelik6174
@pavelbelik6174 Жыл бұрын
@@robertmifkovic6325 And at leat in Czech you dont say "ochranu" when talking about climbing
@BobMarley-vl5gl
@BobMarley-vl5gl 4 жыл бұрын
Adam girlfriend is worlds best belayer cos she belayed upto 9c
@imahuman1996
@imahuman1996 4 жыл бұрын
'I'm not that experienced with belaying, I've only belayed up to 9a+' - Adam
@theodorecraft718
@theodorecraft718 4 жыл бұрын
"Not such as an experienced belayer as my gf" well, if he has not belayed anyone that climbs to the same standard as himself then this would mean he is not as experienced as his gf ;)
@imahuman1996
@imahuman1996 4 жыл бұрын
@@theodorecraft718 I'm pretty sure his gf belayed him on silence, so she has the highest graded belay ever.
@lucaslb1111
@lucaslb1111 4 жыл бұрын
@@imahuman1996 Thats honestly pretty fucking sick
@ThisHandleFeatureIsStupid
@ThisHandleFeatureIsStupid 3 жыл бұрын
0:34 "Climbing is about being in a group." [Alex Honnold has left the chat]
@bastienrobin9334
@bastienrobin9334 4 жыл бұрын
I think the worst situation is when you are climbing at your maximum, when you are not confident and at this moment, when you look at the bottom, you see your belayer that is not looking at you.
@dvsmaverick
@dvsmaverick 4 жыл бұрын
That is so true.
@minas.831
@minas.831 4 жыл бұрын
Bastien Robin to be honest from a belayers perspective it’s often not beneficial because it’s hard to tell is it better to be staring at the climber or the rope or where your hands are going?
@AnDrEwGoMeZ12
@AnDrEwGoMeZ12 4 жыл бұрын
@@minas.831 ....... you need to be looking at the climber.. lol wut
@martinandreasvik6505
@martinandreasvik6505 3 жыл бұрын
@@minas.831 I get this if you are new to belaying. Then the climber should not go maximum. However, eperienced belayers have the rope management sort of automated, and should have eyes only at tthe climber.
@lampy12
@lampy12 3 жыл бұрын
But what about the cases when you can't see the climber? When they are above a rock or something?
@Jan-oh4fj
@Jan-oh4fj 4 жыл бұрын
That's why I love Adam, he is humble and always gives credit to everyone around him. Stay that way Adam, that's what makes you so special and so sympathic :)
@infinitelyexplosive4131
@infinitelyexplosive4131 4 жыл бұрын
"Adam's most favorite belayer" that made me smile a bit
@RappoportLab
@RappoportLab 4 жыл бұрын
What an excellent video! So much good information. Thanks!
@louisdeulceux1160
@louisdeulceux1160 2 жыл бұрын
You're a hero, im starting climbing and your video help me so much for beat my fear. Best tips ever
@erato99
@erato99 4 жыл бұрын
Great video. Very informative. I’m not a climber, but I love what you do and you answered several questions here.
@mchaelmachine80904k
@mchaelmachine80904k 4 жыл бұрын
5:39 No one is talking about this??? *Ok*
@Luke-sx7nq
@Luke-sx7nq 4 жыл бұрын
That’s comedy right there
@user-dg9ti5gq4e
@user-dg9ti5gq4e 4 жыл бұрын
Yeah I mean she's not any any actual danger and its just what it is. Adam is safe, she's safe, she's a bit stressed, as she should be. No problemos. They clearly respect each other and if she had a serious issue with it im sure he would listen,
@MisterK9739
@MisterK9739 4 жыл бұрын
@@user-dg9ti5gq4e I... I think you missed the joke buddy ^^
@user-dg9ti5gq4e
@user-dg9ti5gq4e 4 жыл бұрын
@@MisterK9739 Oh jezz I did lol
@rasmusblomberg7373
@rasmusblomberg7373 4 жыл бұрын
@@user-dg9ti5gq4e lmao you made my day sir.
@javierr162
@javierr162 4 жыл бұрын
So good this video Adam, thank you so much 🙂
@fredgarvin316
@fredgarvin316 4 жыл бұрын
Very good English and accent Adam! You are easily understood as it is difficult for people to achieve this from that part of Europe. I have always been interested in knowing what pro climbers think about their belayers, especially in competitions. This was great insight! I always try to watch them closely but after the first bolt they are out of the shot. I have never seen a belayer in competition use an auto-locking device and it is interesting how some still use a figure 8. I've had many falls unnecessary by belayers not giving me slack fast enough when clipping on hard routes.
@aparadigm8
@aparadigm8 4 жыл бұрын
Great informative video Adam :)
@2fast4me9
@2fast4me9 4 жыл бұрын
Adams girlfriend is so cute. Very lovely person!
@terraflow__bryanburdo4547
@terraflow__bryanburdo4547 4 жыл бұрын
At 2:32, do as he says, NOT as he does! Also that fall in Flatanger is scary AF. Epic video, maybe Adam's most important so far!
@tobiassarnow495
@tobiassarnow495 4 жыл бұрын
i was shocked as well - never ever get your hands of the brake hand
@waits8
@waits8 4 жыл бұрын
@@tobiassarnow495 He is just demonstrating what "not to do" while explaining that.
@daforce128
@daforce128 4 жыл бұрын
THANK YOU! Was about to post the same!
@trifiroriendeau7137
@trifiroriendeau7137 4 жыл бұрын
According to Petzl it's actually okay to use this technique to take out slack on lead. (at 5min30) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fK6UpM2b3su4pJs.html. Maybe not the best but still considered okay. What about Adam's technique at @5:01 though
@Hiker1792
@Hiker1792 4 жыл бұрын
Was literally about to post the same comment but wanted to see if anyone else caught it. "I have control the whole time" *as he takes his hand off the break*
@simonlerchbaumer8130
@simonlerchbaumer8130 4 жыл бұрын
Awesome Video !!
@mleedunc
@mleedunc 4 жыл бұрын
Great video!
@StephyWephie
@StephyWephie 4 жыл бұрын
I love these videos! Can you do more about multi pitches?
@Remi-B-Goode
@Remi-B-Goode 4 жыл бұрын
omg, no words, thank u Master Ondra, courage, keep on, and be safe on the walls!
@lyssalud6781
@lyssalud6781 4 жыл бұрын
i quarantee that this was helpful
@minimatys
@minimatys 4 жыл бұрын
pěkné video, díky :)
@Selxxz51pgm
@Selxxz51pgm 4 жыл бұрын
So cool thanks you!
@robozbeci
@robozbeci 4 жыл бұрын
Nice video :)
@n.sunder4443
@n.sunder4443 4 жыл бұрын
6:43 "work as Quarantee"? pls don't remind me of my situation 😅
@crazyclimber4176
@crazyclimber4176 4 жыл бұрын
Same 🤣
@aarking
@aarking 4 жыл бұрын
guarantee
@filda2005
@filda2005 4 жыл бұрын
Pun intended ^_^
@blackmarlin3166
@blackmarlin3166 4 жыл бұрын
Quarantine youtube is the best.
@Jonas-mu8sr
@Jonas-mu8sr 4 жыл бұрын
GREAT VIDEO at 7:13 anyone knows the Name of the song please?
@themeatpopsicle
@themeatpopsicle 4 жыл бұрын
My favorite belayer is Connie Lightner. Shout out to the moms!
@buddhamisanthrope8021
@buddhamisanthrope8021 4 жыл бұрын
3:50 damn.. It hurts...
@LFZhang86
@LFZhang86 4 жыл бұрын
Wait, did he just let go his breaking hand while talking about rope management.
@vincentkrause7097
@vincentkrause7097 4 жыл бұрын
Alter that said that you should never do this
@peteranelson
@peteranelson 4 жыл бұрын
Yeah, at 2:20...but maybe he wasn't actually belaying Ondra at the time and it was just to illustrate what not to do. I hope!
@CN-re5ut
@CN-re5ut 4 жыл бұрын
Yup
@minas.831
@minas.831 4 жыл бұрын
Yea what the duck was that I’m confused if he works at La Sportivana he should know how to belay properly with PbUS
@DeadAnubis
@DeadAnubis 4 жыл бұрын
He was demonstrating: what not to do.
@kiralycsavo0
@kiralycsavo0 3 жыл бұрын
4:33 Did Adam backclip a quickdraw there?
@giacomogalli7055
@giacomogalli7055 4 жыл бұрын
Hi Adam, i’m learning so much about climbing from many youtube videos, including yours! I started climbing only this year and now that i’m in quarantene i can’t train... i’ve saw a beast maker 1000 on a czech website, but i can’t find it again, do you know where may i can find it? can’t wait to climb again
@paedae16
@paedae16 4 жыл бұрын
Does this remind anymore else of Petzl's "World's best Belayer" video?
@stijnvannoort8401
@stijnvannoort8401 Жыл бұрын
Can you still onsight a multipitch if your partner has already attempted the multipitch?
@ck4u04
@ck4u04 4 жыл бұрын
"Adam's most favorite belayer" LOL
@albertobella4501
@albertobella4501 4 жыл бұрын
Is this still road to tokio?
@phillipebutler3796
@phillipebutler3796 4 жыл бұрын
do you ever take clipping falls? if so, when was the last time?
@johnmcho
@johnmcho 4 жыл бұрын
10 meter fall clipping the chains a few weeks ago. The climb was the longest in they gym and the chains were at the end of a roof. The last 2 meters were very hot as you got close to the roof so I really started to sweat and I couldn't get a strong stance due to the positioning of the chains. I pulled out rope to clip, but felt my offhand slipping from the sweat, so I let go of the rope to readjust the hold and slipped. Softest fall I've ever had.
@andersfoldvik2247
@andersfoldvik2247 4 жыл бұрын
Hi Adam did you now that the ol is canceled
@jenomlucka4578
@jenomlucka4578 4 жыл бұрын
dik za titlky uz sem byla ztracena
@Vorelociraptor
@Vorelociraptor 4 жыл бұрын
anyone else notice that radek said that the biggest problem was not controlling the brake rope when his hand was completely off it and then continued to slide his hand on it basically releasing the brake strand repeatedly?
@xxxxxMojoxxxxx
@xxxxxMojoxxxxx 4 жыл бұрын
I think that was to demonstrate what not to do. In the same way he stepped back from the wall when he said not too.
@Pietervanloon1996
@Pietervanloon1996 4 жыл бұрын
well, the first bit was obviously demonstrating how not to belay. And sliding your hand over the brake strand is actually good practice. It is too slow to always have one hand effectively holding on to the brake strand when you're lead belaying. If you'd do that like you belay toprope, you will short-rope the climber all the time, which is also dangerous for various reasons. By sliding your hand over the rope, you keep agility/quick response, while always being ready to handle. If the climber falls you only need to tighten your fist in a reflex to fix the brake strand, in stead of having to find the the strand with your hand while you're looking at your climber. Hope that makes sense
@xx420xxyolo3
@xx420xxyolo3 4 жыл бұрын
the videos are edited by people who are not necessarily climbers themselves so they could throw in clips that they think are good, but arent.
@Cacovangor
@Cacovangor 4 жыл бұрын
Awkwardswimmer his slide technique is not dangerous as he has a hand on the brake strand at all times, but there are better ways to belay in many situations.
@Cacovangor
@Cacovangor 4 жыл бұрын
Pieter van Loon sliding a hand down the brake strand is essential, but back up after taking in slack is generally laziness from using an assisted lock device as well as misread how much slack was appropriate. The slide upward is not dangerous, but a Pilot itself does not have a hard assisted braking force and this means if a climber falls while sliding then the hand can be dragged into the device. There are better methods, and there are ways to be better about slack management, which when shown on such a video is rather weird...
@lyssalud6781
@lyssalud6781 4 жыл бұрын
since the olympics are in 2021, we will get to see 51 more videos
@aidanstettner2214
@aidanstettner2214 4 жыл бұрын
Adam I'm curious to know your viewpoint on wearing helmets.
@martindrobnik4615
@martindrobnik4615 4 жыл бұрын
The answer is simple, he never does
@Misiacik91
@Misiacik91 4 жыл бұрын
​ Martin he does use sometimes, I think I have seen him using one on ElCap in certain pitches, but yes he should probably use one more often...
@somanayr
@somanayr 4 жыл бұрын
You see him wearing a helmet around 7:40
@chaosengine4597
@chaosengine4597 4 жыл бұрын
don't ask top climbers about helmets
@pettsnjam
@pettsnjam 4 жыл бұрын
If your not experienced in falling I’ve seen multiple people end up with their feet above there head and then crack their head on the wall. Both in the gym and outside. Also depends on the route, overhangs it’s unlikely to hit your head fall but if you’ve been outside climbing much rock coming loss or coming down from above happens, I always climb with a helm. 20 plus years of climbing I live by safety never takes a vacation. As a climber it’s important to calculate risk.
@maxzhernovkov1602
@maxzhernovkov1602 4 жыл бұрын
Why this episode called "belaying" and all we see is ondra climbing again?
@juanesvillacis7713
@juanesvillacis7713 4 жыл бұрын
Does somebody know which is the knot that Adam uses to climb? 0:08
@fieldmarshal99
@fieldmarshal99 4 жыл бұрын
i think he`s using a figure 8 but its hard to tell
@simontschuck3530
@simontschuck3530 4 жыл бұрын
stefano
@KonstantinMakarov
@KonstantinMakarov 4 жыл бұрын
Aaaaaand at 5:05 Adam's personally grabbed gri-gri and successfully blocked it furthermore the bottom end of the rope was uncontrolled too =) Thanks for nice belaying, thank you all)))
@filda2005
@filda2005 4 жыл бұрын
Thats the only way how to give way more slack in one pull. Seems you didnt have the chance to try that with someone ascending faster than this devices was designed for.
@KonstantinMakarov
@KonstantinMakarov 4 жыл бұрын
​@@filda2005 yep, he could do no step near or backward kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mteips6bsN24lnk.html
@KonstantinMakarov
@KonstantinMakarov 4 жыл бұрын
@@filda2005 and more kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fK6UpM2b3su4pJs.html
@SeraphinoII
@SeraphinoII 4 жыл бұрын
That method is the one that PETZL says to use for giving a lot of slack, why don't you comment about something you actually have some experience about?
@davidedinello6133
@davidedinello6133 4 жыл бұрын
@@SeraphinoII No it's not. You can see that his hand is wrapped around (also below )the grigri, which is not safe. you should only hold it by that little edge on the side and block the top. I also saw Jakob Shubert doing the same thing in his Perfecto Mundo video, it's a common way of giving slack but an unsafe one.
@Huzarif97
@Huzarif97 4 жыл бұрын
Is 1:22 The Boulder Problem on El Cap?
@Cacovangor
@Cacovangor 4 жыл бұрын
That is, in particular that is the final move to the incut edge. Adam has some height and flexibility thus the lay back shouldering to the edge rather than karate kick.
@DerCnark
@DerCnark 4 жыл бұрын
6:42 when Quarantine messes with your english skills 🤣
@chad4853
@chad4853 4 жыл бұрын
Hey Adam besides personal preference, why don't you wear a helmet?
@offwithriss
@offwithriss 4 жыл бұрын
also wear rubber gloves so you dont get electrocuted when using your keyboard
@chad4853
@chad4853 4 жыл бұрын
@@offwithriss That's not possible I don't understand your point? Please explain further.
@chaosengine4597
@chaosengine4597 4 жыл бұрын
@@offwithriss that actually is a dumb ass answer
@Chance-ry1hq
@Chance-ry1hq 3 жыл бұрын
Yeah, I’d say a good belayer is kind of important.
@The14541
@The14541 3 жыл бұрын
I know the feel belaying climber with almost 2x my body weight (i am 48kilos and my friend around 80kilos), the moment he fell; damn i felt like my heart jump up to my throat
@JoshuaTootell
@JoshuaTootell 2 жыл бұрын
48 😳
@DecentGatsby
@DecentGatsby 4 жыл бұрын
Why can’t climbers choose their own belayer during championships/competitions?
@eloytoro
@eloytoro 3 жыл бұрын
Because a belayer can help the climber cheat
@katherinestrotman1162
@katherinestrotman1162 4 жыл бұрын
What belaying device was he using?
@Cacovangor
@Cacovangor 4 жыл бұрын
Katherine Strotman the instructor was first using a BD Pilot, then a Mammut Smart in other parts, showed an Edelrid Ohm talking about weight, and then I saw definitely a BD Atc and a Petzl GriGri from other folks.
@katherinestrotman1162
@katherinestrotman1162 4 жыл бұрын
@@Cacovangor Thanks so much for being so thorough with all that you saw!! That was extremely helpful :)
@dakiblabla
@dakiblabla 4 жыл бұрын
"When I'm belaying someone who's not as good as I am..."
@ECGPills
@ECGPills 4 жыл бұрын
so there is some footage of adam climbing the book of hate!!!
@vagabundodelmundo86
@vagabundodelmundo86 4 жыл бұрын
kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o7x0rM5hqq2co5c.html&feature=emb_logo
@ECGPills
@ECGPills 4 жыл бұрын
@@vagabundodelmundo86 there is no footage of him climbing in that video
@sigifredovargas7015
@sigifredovargas7015 4 жыл бұрын
Okay
@alias434
@alias434 3 жыл бұрын
03:37 Why does it not count if the belayer gives you less slack?
@caitmack1178
@caitmack1178 2 жыл бұрын
If they keep the rope too tight they can end up taking some of your weight and helping you up the wall
@andresbejcek2673
@andresbejcek2673 4 жыл бұрын
First 😀
@Shadow-jm5wy
@Shadow-jm5wy 2 жыл бұрын
Jištění je easy to learn ale hard to master (podle mě)
@zkuke
@zkuke 4 жыл бұрын
3:33
@mikafull
@mikafull 4 жыл бұрын
A really good video, but I have seens Adam on another video, how he is belaying really bad.
@contris1
@contris1 3 жыл бұрын
3:56 the pain of the girl is higher than of the adam
@christianlanham-new4784
@christianlanham-new4784 Жыл бұрын
song @7:16
@gimpdoctor8362
@gimpdoctor8362 4 жыл бұрын
im gonna find a new partner so I can belay at a higher level
@TheSoteriologist
@TheSoteriologist 4 жыл бұрын
*How to protect your country from a pandemic: host the Olympics !* Just wait until afterwards, suddenly Japan will announce drastic measures.
@MrEyad1990
@MrEyad1990 4 жыл бұрын
Is adam better than magnus ?
@steven2982
@steven2982 4 жыл бұрын
Adam maybe the goat, Magnus is a very good climber.
@MrEyad1990
@MrEyad1990 4 жыл бұрын
@@steven2982 i see that adam goes to a lot of champiansships more than magnus .
@minas.831
@minas.831 4 жыл бұрын
Why did the first belayer take his hand off the rope at 2 minutes he better not have been belaying Adam
@buzzerking
@buzzerking 4 жыл бұрын
Don't climb the same time as Adam. Man will startle you off the wall.
@prenom_nom
@prenom_nom 4 жыл бұрын
Forth
@wildmansamurai3663
@wildmansamurai3663 4 жыл бұрын
Dude is Spiderman.
@gabrielharris3519
@gabrielharris3519 4 жыл бұрын
Crazy to think Alex did this without all that
@jojo.gessner9380
@jojo.gessner9380 4 жыл бұрын
Third
@devieilleroche
@devieilleroche 3 жыл бұрын
Why neither you nor your belayer rarely wears a helmet in your video? 🤔
@leoingson
@leoingson 4 жыл бұрын
And yet Radek pays out slack with the rope hand much too high at 2:41 - a(n auto)tuber cannot grip at this position, the ropehand must always stay BELOW THE DEVICE.
@Mike-oz4cv
@Mike-oz4cv 4 жыл бұрын
At least a Mammut Smart grips/locks in that position. I’ve tried it with a mass simulator (60kg rigid mass lead climbing fall while feeding out rope). It’s still a good idea to keep your hand below the device and don’t constantly unlock it. Another thing I’ve found out with the mass simulator is that at least the Mammut Smart doesn’t lock if you don’t have your hand on the rope.
@leoingson
@leoingson 4 жыл бұрын
@@Mike-oz4cv If it locks in this wrong position might heavily depend on rope diameter and state (how used is the rope).
@GoodLuck-rh8tb
@GoodLuck-rh8tb 3 жыл бұрын
This is the recommended hand position for paying out slack in lead belaying with this device.
@leoingson
@leoingson 3 жыл бұрын
@@GoodLuck-rh8tb Wot?
@booczech123456
@booczech123456 4 жыл бұрын
Road to Tokio +1 year. :/
@ehoh3246
@ehoh3246 4 жыл бұрын
Hahaha 9:17 he throws the rope around his leg
@Ghost867
@Ghost867 4 жыл бұрын
2:17 One of the most common mistakes is: ... THEN HE DOES THE MOST COMMON AND BIGGEST MISTAKE: NEVER LET GO OF THE BRAKING ROPE!!! NEVER!!! NOT EVEN FOR DEMONSTRATION PURPOSE IF HE IS BELAYING SOMEONE RIGHT NOW !!!
@slimxjim3
@slimxjim3 4 жыл бұрын
isn't the belay equipment automatic or at least half-automatic? it doesn't seem to be the classical belayer where the free rope has to be hold all the time
@Ghost867
@Ghost867 4 жыл бұрын
@@slimxjim3 It is half automatic :) still you shouldnt do it
@max.maexlaend
@max.maexlaend 4 жыл бұрын
2.20 WTF, that guy wants to teach us sth about belaying? No matter if it's an autoblocker, the right hand has to hold the rope, that's it.
@evanburgeson
@evanburgeson 3 жыл бұрын
His first example is what NOT to do. But no, you can slide your hand up the rope while still maintaining control of the brake strand.
@user-ij6om6yv7n
@user-ij6om6yv7n 4 жыл бұрын
я из России
@a3aan94
@a3aan94 4 жыл бұрын
corona???????
@faceindisguise85
@faceindisguise85 2 жыл бұрын
1:27 Anyone else recognize this as the famous "Boulder problem" insane to think Alex honnold free soloed this.
@captainspaulding5963
@captainspaulding5963 2 жыл бұрын
Alex soloed Freerider, not the same route Adam tried to flash
@LaviCor-md7ks
@LaviCor-md7ks 4 жыл бұрын
kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hLB4icqcyM7Hkqs.html What I thought of for every second of this video
@hack2729
@hack2729 4 жыл бұрын
Third Comment :D
@jxxi226
@jxxi226 4 жыл бұрын
Hahaa im climbing to and im 12 and have 53kg and adams girl friend is more than 18 years and have 50kg
@Mdjagg
@Mdjagg 4 жыл бұрын
Not nearly enough detail. This isnt really helpful to teach beginners how to give good catches. If this was supposed to be a way to "tame fear" from climbing and falling, then this should be about how to give the sweetest catches. I think only 50% of climbers know that their belayer is going to give them a great catch every time. The bad belayers just dont understand the basic principles behind the mechanics of a Hard-catch vs a Soft-catch. Mani the Monkey explains it well, but also fails to demonstrate clearly why/how falling is controlled at the point where the rope initiates, and changes the direction of fall towards the protection you are last clipped into. At the point of initiation, the belayer's options are either to add force, remain a neutral force, or reduce force on the falling climber. If you jump as the rope begins to pull you up off the ground, then you will significantly reduce the effect of the direction change, i.e. the falling climber getting spiked back into the wall. Misjudging the jump COULD actually add force to the fall and make things much worse. If the belayer instinctively sits back on the rope at the moment the rope comes tight, more force would be added than if they had just stood there relaxed. So your options are, sit there, dynamically sit down or "take", or "go with" the pull of the rope. Based on the weight differential and fall distance, you judge whether to do just a little by walking into and up the wall (like Mani's video shows well), or minimize the force as much as you can by jumping as high as you can muster at that perfect moment. Most of the time, you want minimal slack, and a soft-catch. Most people misconstrue more slack out as a soft-catch, but in reality, it just increases the forces and the fall distance.
@kolleykibber7807
@kolleykibber7807 4 жыл бұрын
It wasn't for beginners, it was for advanced climbers to remind them of how important belaying is.
@Mdjagg
@Mdjagg 4 жыл бұрын
@@kolleykibber7807 If it was for advanced climbers, then it was even more worthless than I thought.
@skilllessbeast7416
@skilllessbeast7416 4 жыл бұрын
@@Mdjagg it is more of a reminder than a tutorial. Because the importamce of the belay is often underrated.
@Mdjagg
@Mdjagg 4 жыл бұрын
@@skilllessbeast7416 It should have been called something more specific then, imo. If this was supposed to be a way to "tame fear" from climbing and falling, then this should be about how to give the sweetest catches. I think only 50% of climbers know that their belayer is going to give them a great catch every time. The bad belayers just dont understand the basic principles behind the mechanics of a Hard-catch vs a Soft-catch. Mani the Monkey explains it well, but also fails to demonstrate clearly why/how falling is controlled at the point where the rope initiates, and changes the direction of fall towards the protection you are last clipped into. At the point of initiation, the belayer's options are either to add force, remain a neutral force, or reduce force on the falling climber. If you jump as the rope begins to pull you up off the ground, then you will significantly reduce the effect of the direction change, i.e. the falling climber getting spiked back into the wall. Misjudging the jump COULD actually add force to the fall and make things much worse. If the belayer instinctively sits back on the rope at the moment the rope comes tight, more force would be added than if they had just stood there relaxed. So your options are, sit there, dynamically sit down or "take", or "go with" the pull of the rope. Based on the weight differential and fall distance, you judge whether to do just a little by walking into and up the wall (like Mani's video shows well), or minimize the force as much as you can by jumping as high as you can muster at that perfect moment. Most of the time, you want minimal slack, and a soft-catch. Most people misconstrue more slack out as a soft-catch, but in reality, it just increases the forces and the fall distance.
@hanna9164
@hanna9164 4 жыл бұрын
It was just a reminder on the importance of belaying. Not a tutorial. Take it as a reminder to appreciate your belayers a little more and maybe even plan to practice belaying. Often, belayers aren't properly appreciated. Take Silence for example. Yes, Adam climbing that is enormously impressive but if you look at how difficult that was to belay and how intense it must have been for both of them. Give credit where credit is due
@GoodLuck-rh8tb
@GoodLuck-rh8tb 3 жыл бұрын
Funny how these recently Toprope certified people try to catch mistakes in belaying by trained and experienced professionals.
@romuloambay9624
@romuloambay9624 4 жыл бұрын
climbing with a rope destroys the art and beauty of climbing. .there's no substitute for free solo. . .it is the ultimate test in every climber's skill and psychology. .how one would assess a person ascending on a rockwall attached to a safety rope then midway or somewhere in a climb just decided to let himself go because he was assured by a lifeline. .alex climbed perfectly well it's the reason why he's still alive. .ondra would have died long time ago with those hasty and erratic climbs. .he depends so much on technology. .technology makes professional climbers look like amateurs. .the thrill and the meaning of struggle diminish. .rock climbing is only one way, you either go up or simply face your fate downward. .
@valentinuntersmayr1526
@valentinuntersmayr1526 3 жыл бұрын
It's been a long time since I've read something that stupid.
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