This is kind of crazy we see the genius of a welder doing an amazing job because he showed me how to do it now I can take it higher this is unbelievable but without him I will fall flat on my face

Well done, and thanks for sharing. I'll be reversing what you've just done,...sort of. My trailer is higher, (mobile home frame and axles), and have much longer ramps that I made years ago. They're heavy, and get tossed in the back of my truck when hauling. I want to make tracks underneath, and slide them below the deck for storage.

Good idea keeping the old original set of lights really adds to visibility

Good job, I like the jacks under the ramps.

Bought a car hauler with slide outs, what a pain in the butt. Going to reuse the ramps & weld another L to stiffen them up & a foot for loading. Thanks!

You have some great ideas. I will use it on my trailer mods. Keep them coming!

Good Video. I'm in the processes of doing basically the same thing. For the tube I found some old drill rod at the scrap yard. It's pretty hard stuff and should make for a strong pivot point without bowing. When and where do you use the receiver on the back of your trailer? How often do you use it? I can see where a receiver mounted somewhere on the front would be useful for mounting an electric wench.

Nice trailer. Now all we need is a review of ALL your equipment.

I put an additional 10” on my 10ft trailer to fit my 4 seater Teryx I had a 2 seater and it’s to small. I removed the angle that held my hinges and welded that on the extension part. I put 2 new uprights and worked pretty slick!

That Dewalt heat gun is SLICK!

Thanks very much "GC!" I have a very similar situation with ramps that have jacks, ready to mount. I've had enough close calls with trailers that have inferiorities so I would like to think I'm ready to work on "details." Please excuse me, but I don't see going how many miles with those ramps moving back and forth with the chains' slack "securing" them. One brace on each side with a lynch pin holding them would have them more solid, not stressing the "hinge" point holders to the trailer with each bounce. All you'd have to do would be slide the ramps even with the braces. Very slim chance those chains are coming all the way out. BUT, I wouldn't be surprised if you find them slipping/bouncing a cog when you got "there." HOWEVER! Thank MUCH!

Nice job, just should use solid round stock for the hinge. That tubing will likely bend if you carry heavy loads or bump it. 💪

Hi I came to you to receive guidance and I have I appreciate your help where the ramp is going to be mounted onto the trailer there is a solid or a Halo rod and the same on the ramps///// those rods one has to be a lot I mean a lot smaller than the other one like one is 3/4 of an inch while the other one it's about 3 in now why is this? So the Jack go to work efficiently more effectively I hope my information has helped you

My opinion is to weld some 1/4-1/2” flat bar to the diamond plate. If that gets mud,water anything , you could possibly slide off and the other side would be spinning, think about if nothing more. Great video and good job.👍👍

So are you just running flux core? Welding?

Good build man. Plan on doing something like this myself soon.

what do you use the reciever on the trailer for? what gauge tube did you use for the ramp pivot?

What do you do when you’re towing? Do you just take them off or do you have a mounting system.

The Bob Cat was definitely way heavier than the truck was, the metal flexed a lot more with the Cat. The Bob cat might be over the weight limit of that trailer depending on the rating but it’s probably around 10,000lbs and the truck is 5500lbs

what kind of plasma cutter is that? been looking for a decent setup at home. not sure how big of a air compressor ill need.

Hey what's going on I'm building a set of ramps for my trailer I used 1in thick round solid tubing you think that will be strong enough to put a car on top

Nice job

Link to those heavy duty trailer light housings?! I've been ordering them for my trailers builds but there always thin metal. Can't find those one on ebay.

Is that 3/16 or 1/4 material? Hard to tell in the video

Can u please provide dimensions of everything you used ?.. and all the Information u can provide.. I wanna do the same to my trailer

What size trailer is that?

Is it necessary to clean, wire brush or whatever the metal before welding?

Your side markers won’t get hit by anyone other than your own employees.

You guys should really 3” channel for the side pieces.

Hi what size bar are you using and were do you get the hinges. Thank you for your knowledge and time

how many FT is your trailer? 16? or 18 ?

Nice job!! Where did you buy the metal?

It's crazy how your welding thicker metal at least 3/16 inch with a baby welder and no gas Alma 75/25 guy with the Miller and you know if the Ramsey penetrated real good that machine I know definitely doesn't get hot enough to really really sink in or Biden I should say to the metal from the filler metal you'll see how it holds up nice job though

Hello . is it not the case that you are required by law to have 3 red lights in the middle on your trailer? . I see 1 on either side of your trailer hits. plus an unused trailer hits. so if you make a short piece of square tube that fits in the trailer hits with a plate closed with a hole for your 3rd red light, just connect your 3rd light with a plug and you have 3 red lights at the back again. do you need the trailer hits. plug loose, trailer-hits-plug out and ready for use. then plug your trailer-hits-plug back into the plug and you are legally in order again. with kind regards Hollandduck from the Netherlands

Hi Shawn yeah like the raps . Buttttt I would of cut a holes in that c channel and added a 1/4 inch thick heavy wall pipe to go over that round bar. I know you load lots of heavy machines.

What size pipe outer and inner?

cut the legs off the others trailer turn them around and then reweld the legs on it. easy fix

What size is the c chanel

Flux core welding no good