I recently did the swap from AGM to a LiFePO4 on a 15 year old slide-in truck camper. It turned out not to be a plug and play install - but now after some field testing, it was well worth the expense and effort.

Morning, first off, Harrison was extremely helpful when I did my Lithium conversion so "Hats Off" to the Enduro crew!! My conversion is in a 1996 Class C, small one, about 20ft. I installed a 300mAh inside the house under the dinette seat seat, so no box needed, I had to make all my own leads, I went with a Renogy shunt right at the ground/negative terminal, I had to replace my converter to a newer 3 staged PowerMax when I bought the RV because the original converter had failed, that's another story and you're not going to have to read about that, Anyway, what I learned from Harrison I put to use, over sized the wires too and from the battery to the power distribution box in my RV, I used a 20amp DC to DC charger to isolate my lithium from the still existing lead acid battery circuit that is used to start my generator, plus side to this is that the engine alternator will charge both batteries without overloading my alternator. The DC to DC charger limits what the lithium battery wants to draw from my alternator when driving, 20amps may seem low but you don't want to overload the charging wire from your alternator, most will handle 30amps but I didn't need to push it. My generator will charge at 50amps to the battery, this summer I'm installing a run of the mill household window mount AC unit, they are way more efficient than any Stock RV overhead AC unit, plus I'll be upgrading it with a "Soft Start" system to ease the load on the battery. Install fuses at the battery positive post for all wires that go there, I set my charging voltage at 14.6 volts, you can charge with as low as 14.4 volts, doesn't matter but it gives the battery what it wants. As for the weight savings, yes 50# is a good thing but the fact that your lead acid batteries only weighed 50# each is a sign of a very low quality high profit margin battery, normally they weigh in at 65# to 85# each. Yes, strap it down secure to the frame of the trailer tongue, in case of an accident you don't want it flying around at all. so here's the math, I did LED conversion to all house lighting, soft white bulbs, easy to do, Amazon has 15 bulb packs for about $30, I switched out my overhead vent fans to brushless Max Air units, but I still have and use the original Atwood furnace & hot water heater and the original Dometic absorption fridge. Sorry for the long post, if you have any questions just ask. btw, your install was very easy compared to mine but with Harrison's help mine went very smoothly.

To those watching...put your litium batteries inside.....dont leave them outside

I enjoyed this video mainly because of you presentation style. Good Job!

Brave guy, propane lines scare me even with the gas tape. Was lucky swapped mine for a small single lithium in my coleman.

Great video! Super informative and I had some great laughs 😃!

Great video good humor will watch again keep it up thanks …👍 😂🎉

Appreciate your time and effort to produce the vid. I converted my brother's bumper pull to lithium. You are correct about knowing your situation. Ended up with two 100ah Renogy batteries. They were group 27 size so fit in existing locations and boxes. Wired them in series and changed the charging unit on the invertor. Since they almost exclusively boondock we installed a truck to trailer charger so they would always have full charge when they arrive at their destination. Definitely not inexpensive but they seem very happy with the upgrade. Nice work, thanks

You lost 50 lbs but increased 100-150/200% capacity. Pretty awesome.

Great information and excellent video! Well done on the filming, editing especially making this move quickly and kept it interesting and helpful. As another small channel just have to say Way to Go!! Looks like you received major hits on this. New subscribers and supporters of your channel! Wishing you more great content and a growing channel!

So glad you did this video!!!!

You are too funny! Really enjoyed this and learned in the meantime!

I did a 200Ah LiFePO4 on my 32' class A 2 years ago (shortly before the battery prices dropped by 1/3). It definitely isn't worth the effort for anyone that just goes to parks, but we boondock in the desert several times a year and it makes it so much easier when you have the right setup. They can deep cycle so well and they can take a big charge load if you want. Fitment wasn't an issue, but it did take me a couple trips to work the bugs out. I didn't have a shunt the first time and it was really hard to know how much energy is left because the voltage is so stable. A shunt is mandatory so I'm glad to see you are adding one. You mentioned re-programming your solar charge controller, but didn't mention your converter. I replaced my converter at the same time with a 2500w inverter, with a 70a charger, to run my whole coach. All in it was about a $2500 conversion, but it works flawlessly now. All the plugs are hot all the time, it can run my microwave and coffee machine in the morning without running the generator. I know exactly how much power I have and are using. I kick on the generator when I need to run the AC or charge the battery. I charge it when it gets to around 20%, or before we go to bed. I usually run it up to about 80% (when the charge rate drops) when charging on the generator so that I don't waste fuel. Your next step is to make sure the battery doesn't draw too much power from your truck.

Enjoyed. Great information.

Sooooooo for all of you, I built a tray to hold 4 lythum batteries, 1 honda 2000i and a case that holds a 3000 /6000 inverter it sits between the propane tanks and trailer, If you would like me to do a video please let me know.

Nice project.

Enjoyable video! At least you had the programmable charge controller. Older rigs may not, and their chargers may not be compatible with lithium batteries.

Great video and well done. Love the humor. I am converting to an Enduro 200ah myself in the coming months, so there was some very useful information in your video. One of the reasons I chose the Enduro because is because it is a bit smaller than most 200ah lithium batteries and therefor gives you a bit of space to work with inside the battery box. I have a 2022 E-Pro 19FD with a standard double battery box on the tongue. Because of the extra room the Enduro gives me, I plan on mounting my (already purchased) Victron IP65 SmartShunt inside the box on the end, next to and slightly lower than the top of the battery using a little secured shelf next to the battery. There are two reasons for my thinking for the shunt side shelf mount. One - the shelf should snugs in the battery so that it has less movement during transit. Two - it takes the shunt off of the top of the battery and gives it more clearance. I have a question: Did you do anything to secure the battery to the box (straps?) so that it does not bounce around during transit? I'm trying to figure out if this is a necessary step. My lead acid batteries apparently didn't need to be strapped down, but my lead acid batteries did not have a BMS inside with a SmartShunt sitting next to them!

Every time you change something it will be difficult. I think battle born 2 100amp would have fit in your old setup. But you did it and made a great video.

I can see why the propane line was routed between the two old batteries...more protected. Sorry you had these issues. The new Lithium battery did "drop in" on my TT.

Luck you had a programmable charger. When I upgraded to lithium, I had to replace the power supply/charger which was a lot of work. It was larger than the original unit so I had to do some cutting and grinding to get it to fit. I ended up moving the battery from the tongue to a storage compartment so there was lots of aggravation having to add and reroute the stiff copper cables to the new location. Definitely worth it though. I can drain the battery to 0% without worry of damaging it plus moving it off the tongue was good for weight distribution.

I went from a single group 25 battery to 3 group 27's and used a SmileMart 30" Aluminum Truck Tool Box to house them on the tongue. I had to scoot the bottle holder forward as far as the electric hitch would allow. And I had to elevate it with some wood so it was supported better in the middle. You may want to consider an option like this for security for that expensive battery. Plus it looks kinda nice on the front.

I have 3 Enduro 300ah batteries and they are made in China, but serviced and warrantied in the US by Harrison and his folks. Damn good batteries!

Well as someone who added lithium to his older model 2014 5r I understand part of this issue. I am however a cnc technician and a liscenced electrician. I also studied electronics and do car audio amplifier repair. I found that a combo of agm and lithium seems to work best. The charging issues were a little worrisome with the lifpo4 batts. I figured that out. I use shore, solar, generator, and my 275 amp alternator in my truck. tested my trailer in 90 degree weather. With my current setup I can run my trailer almost 34 hrs without charging. The a/c and everything. I also changed my charging to 14.4v and i changed my battery cables from 6 guage to #1 welding cable and my fuse blocks to fuses that I use for my sound system. They are much better and easier to use. I also ran new power wires to my my inverter and secondary fuse block. I've since installed a soft start unit into my a/c so I'm hoping to get a little more out of my battery life now. The camper has been winterized so it will have to wait a couple more months to find out. Nice job though.

I prefer an actual manual switch, rather than your "smart shunt". Smart anything, is just one more thing that MIGHT fail, and Murphy's Law applies. Keep it ALL simple, and you have fewer/no problems down the road. Bear in mind, Lithium Batteries do NOT like the cold. Most RV folks physically disconnect power during long storage. Advice: Fixed mount solar, on RV's need REGULAR CLEANING. Roof mounts in particular are prone to dirt obscuring the face of solar panels.

Good luck on the shunt install. I had "issues" with mine since the ring terminals on the trailer's battery cable were different diameter (M6 and M8 or something) to the shunt's. So take note on that before you head out and have the correct size terminals on your cables. Otherwise the install of the shunt is easy.

All the reasons I stuck with old-school gulf cart battery. Luckily my camper has the cargo capacity

Also when you buy a lithium battery you might want to consider moving it into the trailer where it doesn't get exposed to the elements

Well I just did this and instead of using a 200 amp hr , I used 2 100 amp hour. And I was done in ten minutes... a little look beforehand and you would of saved a ton of time and money.

The camera was on your face most of the time rather than on the work. Thanks for the video.

One point of clarification. No battery including the Enduro Power brand are made in the USA. They may be assembled in the USA but all of the components are made in China. The USA does not have any LFP battery production. I have 920Ah of LFP in my motorhome and 560Ah in my sailboat and would never go back to lead. On your specifications, it will tell you that the max charge is 14.6v but you should not set the charge that high. The internal BMS will shut off charging anytime any of the cells goes over 3.65v. At 14.6v all four of them will be at 3.65v if it is perfectly balanced which never happens. A better plan is to only charge to 14.0v which is 3.50v/cell and will allow for cell balancing without dripping the over voltage protection. They should never be floated at anything over 13.5v

I guess no one does any calculations of all their demand be deciding how much you need. Everyone just throws darts.

I was just speaking with a RV roof repair guy and he actually told me that you don't want to use RV covers because if they are not tight enough, they will move with the wind and scratch up the roof and sides and can damage it. He told me that if you need a cover why do all the RV dealers never have covers. If not having a cover would damage your RV then why would they not cover it.

My advice. It is better for the battery life if you lower the charging voltage. No matter what the spec, dealer og anybody say, it is better to use lower voltages for RV use. Set the absorption to 14,0V or at least not higher than 14,2V. Set the float voltage to 13,35V. This will keep your battery close to 100% charged at a more comfortable voltage level. This comes to a cost of longer charging time. If you want faster charging, increase the absorption to 14,4V, not higher. You wont gain anything from increasing the float voltage. Maybe to 13,4V if the state of charge decreases any significant amount by it selves when floating. In any case never have a charging voltage that triggers the BMS shut off in the battery. This is a safety feature and should never happen.

When we added to 100ah Battleborn, we put them inside the camper because I didn't want them stolen. You might want to consider that. I thought your problems would be the charger part - ours is older and we had to switch out the charging part of the inverter, but not biggie. We have gone 3 days with 200 ah and have about 40% left - this is when not much heat is needed and no AC.

With the Amazon bs, just wait until you deal with a 5 DAYS delay!!

Installed lithium titanate cells that's cheaper and result into a 13 and half volt 6 cell battery, with 4 of those. They are fully charged by 10:30 am, totally unplugged from the grid day and night. The only thing that drags them down would be excessive use of microwave. Installed on the roof are 8 solar panels 60 in by 30 in each, with a total wattage output of 1400 watts at 20 volts regulated with manually adjustable voltage and amp regulators.

Good job mate, ur always gonna have a few extra things along the way, so this is a massive improvement to what u had. Check out Andys Off Grid Garage Australia channel for all things Solar & lipo4, he is good. Regarding ur charging voltage for bulk charging, at 3.45v/cell x 4 cells = 13.8v, lifepo4 batteries can fully charge at this voltage but take a bit longer as they are in the start of their full SOC curve, this is a sweet spot, so if u set ur controller to 14v max, you will get a fairly quick safe charge at 3.5v/cell, hold it there for up to 1hr to help balance the cells maybe, & then drop back to 13.5v-13.8v is all you need to maintain maximum capacity & SOC, going over 14.2v should not be necessary for this chemistry, unless you need to reset it’s internal BMS very occasionally for recalibration purposes. Hope this helps. Cheers from Oztralia mate

Something you might want to investigate, the lithium battery can draw much higher amperage when charging than a lead acid will. I have read about it burning up peoples alternators on the tow vehicle. I am in the early stages of this process myself and am installing a lithium charger that I can put in between the tow vehicle power and the battery to avoid too much current draw.

Very important and not much known. Lifepo4 can't charge when freezing, it will destroy them. Check your battery for the protection. But I guess you knew that as Will Purse often mentions it.

Nice. Dragging the gas line on the hwy might be a problem

Shouldn't mount and use Lithium batteries outside, should be inside, there temperature sensitive. Use a DC-DC charger from Renogy/Victron charger from your car battery/alternator to the lithium battery. There programmed to charge batteries of that type. Lithium batteries are charge sensitive, they charge differently from a lead-acid. You can ruin it if you keep it at 14.4 volts!

Yes cut negative wire you have and make 2 new ends to go into each side of shunt

Drill holes at the bottom of the box for water 💦 escape. If you haven't done so already.Seeing you for the 1st time; and 50lbs is good loss on the tongue weight. Those cables were hurting lol.

Hi Pro Tip spray the bare battery terminals with CRC Marine 06026 Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor, its expensive and you will no doubt find other places to use it.

I took a picture of my setup. What I didn't realize was as purchased it was two 12v batteries in parallel, rather than 2 6v batteries in series. Call me stupid, but I put my new AGM batteries in 3 times before I realized what I was doing wrong.

I don't think you need a negative busbar. I think you can take off all the negatives off the battery to one side of the shunt and run ONE connection from the shunt to negative battery terminal. Also where did you get the battery box?

Do u have an inverter in your rig and also did you have to change out the converter to work with the new lithium battery? Also why do you need that smart shunt ... ive heard about that somehow but i dont no what its purpose is.

What is the combined wattage of the solar panels that you use to charge the battery?

Just a thought regarding the victron absorption viltage being set to 14.45 volts. The BMS in the battery might disconnect before that, cutting everything off

It would have been better to install the lithium inside for security and it doesn't gas hydrogen.. I assume that's why the lead acid are put there.. which from a batteries point of view is horrible.. particularly the repeated impacts will hurt the plates also wet and cold don't help.. lithium doesn't like cold... all the other kit should be also inside. Another comment has said about current draw .. also there are problems possible depending on the type of alternator.. and be aware how other methods of charging react.. In a way changing to lithium only can be costly because everything could have to be replaced. BTW I've seen people change lead acid batteries or go to lithium because they say they are no good.. only to find it still has problems because the wiring is bad or terminals are dirty.. or there are parasitic loads or the inverter is 3 miles away from the battery and really thin wire. A suggestion.. Use the pinned comment and link in the description to suggest the same video as the end card..

Usually.. all trailers are pull behind trailers.. they are trailers.. they trail behind.

You likely should install a DC to DC charger. Will protect your truck battery from the more powerful lithium battries. If you use a 20 amp one, you can use your postive on your 7 pin (many would not recommend this approach , however, Renogy says acceptable to do). Renogy also has a 40 amp that you can set for 20 amps with a toggle switch on the LC wire.

Have you considered a lithium battery isolation manager such as the Li-BIM 225 for your alternator. It sits between your alternator and your Battery charge controller. I use the Victron BVM - 712. Because LIPO batteries have the capability to over draw your alternator and burn it out literary.

Where did you buy the battery? Cost? Great video. Thank you.

Why didn't you buy 2 100Ah battery? It would fit perfectly, no?

Did you change the stock converter? A FLA converter will not keep that battery fully charged.

THE VIDEO was nice. But NoT Easy ??? Anytime you switch what the factory installed, YOur going to have issues. But afterward it's always better.

watch Andy from off grid garage for all lifepo4 related stuff. Max charging voltage is 3,45V and absorb to 3,4V. Andy all explains this how to prolong battery life. I myself have a 600a lifepo4 and victron mppt 100/50. Anyway 14,6v is max but will shorten its life.

Can you please put the link for the battery box you used ?

About right. Nothing goes right. Put 2x 280 lithium under seat inside. What a pain .

I have one question.The battery you installed does it have a built in heater? The research I’ve seen says that lithium batteries have to stay above a certain temp. If they don’t just curious how you’re going to handle this issue with you storing it .

It is not recommended to install Lithium style batteries on the hitch like lead acid batteries. The proper way to install is some where they are sheltered more from the elements. Under your bed or one of your storage compartments.

Did you have to install a dc to dc charger?

Where is your controller located on the 22MLS?

Did you have to install anything between the tow vehicle and the rv . To keep from burning up the TVs alternator .

? to keep things safe a fuse at the battery end ?

You are funny.

It’s never as easy as drop it in lol it’s always something random that changes the plan

I looked up your battery brand, it is not MADE in America. Only says they are ENGINEERED in America.

So we're half way through with the verbage and so far nothing much except your entertaining stories about gas prices, dirty trailers and propane connections. I am living in hope. However your wit and repartee is very entertaining but I was expecting a lithium battery revelation.

First off the is no such thing as a smart shunt, phone, car or anything for that manor. Second your battery's are sitting out in the weather as it were. Have You taken into consideration you can not park, store or in general use your batterys other then between 32 and 100 degrees F Without harming them? When the sun is on that black box it just absorbs heat. Your potential for shorting the life span were you have it installed is huge. I dont care what the idiot is telling you that sold them too you. That battery needs to be installed inside somewhere so it can be properly climate controlled when in use. My solution is far superior to yours. I have 1 100AH AGM Battery installed. That AGM battery has worked between minus7 and 115 derees F. Then I have a portable 48 volt 150AH Lithium battery that gets removed when I get home so it does not get harmed by temp. In the trailer it is stored in a cabinet next to a 48 volt inverter that the shore power gets plugged into when I am parked. That battery of yours needs to be easily removed and stored at the proper temps when not in use. I lived full time in a RV for over 10 years and AGM Batterys are a much better and cheaper choice because you dont have to worry about the outside temp and damaging your batterys. My first set lasted 8 years. Sadly most people are like you and really dont understand lithium batterys and there limitations. For the record I spend about half my time camping off grid in my current 17ft trailer and I take enough solar panels with me to run the AC in the summer. I dont even own a generator. You have a lot to learn I wish you luck NDR

Talk while showing what you are working on we don't want to see your face the entire time

So, how many RV' ers, does it take to screw in a battery? No.. I'm asking you? Actually that was very cute and funny. And I love your humor and funny voices. You had me running to the bathroom. Leaking. Because it gets harder to hold onto it at 67. Of course those big lithium batteries are worth it. When you have the money for them. The cost of a small house! I mean I want a whole bunch. I'll consider myself lucky. When I can afford one. And while they are a boon in battery technologies. I might think. You really didn't want to mount that battery, outside the trailer. It's going to get heated up. Sitting in the sun. It's going to get flash frozen. In those weeklong cold snap, Arctic blast, weather fronts.. As going to freeze, baby freeze. Better it should be mounted inside the trailer. In a little box. And vented outside. Where it will always be in a, moderate environment. Not in the direct blast from the sun. Heating up the plastic box it's in. Like a poached egg. Now you will have poached lithium. And lithium popsicles. With that poor little battery. All dejected. To have to live outdoors in a little plastic box. Shame on you. That little battery didn't do anything to you. To deserve this kind of harsh, environmental, treatment. As lead acid batteries. Don't care about that quite as much as these very, touchy Feely, lithium batteries. That are not filled with sulfuric acid. And surrounded by lead plate heat sinks. One must remember. These are, new high-tech batteries. And they do occasionally have the propensity. To burst into flames. More so than lead acid types. And so mounting it outside where you have it. Makes perfect sense. So your home on wheels doesn't burn down in 5 minutes or less. But you might have to replace your lithium battery. More often than expected. When the price per watt hour becomes, impractical. And you go back to the old fashion, standby. Heavy less efficient less long-lived, Lead Acid, batteries. And if you have a problem with lead? Then consider it, Los Angeles, batteries. Or LA batteries for short. As the lead acid could be, Timothy Leary derivatives? A different kind of acid. A beneficial acid. Unless you jump into a fire or in front of a diesel truck at 60 mph. Which you should try to avoid doing. Especially when taking LSD and/or drinking, LA or Lead Acid, batteries. What's in your wallet? Nothing! that's why they cut commercial off. Right after that question. RamyRAD

Did you buy a heater for your battery? LIFEPO4s are great.. BUT. they arent worth a damn thing under 50 degrees F... let us know when you switch back to lead acid.. because the lifepo4s suck in cold temps.