Thanks for pointing Robins channel out back when he scraped your level, I have learned a lot from his channel and gotten some great ideas from it as well.

Hi Tom. I really like this format. Short and to the the point. :-)

Hi mate. A nice variant of the back stop ideas. I think that the idea is totally your own but that Robin gave you the incentive to go and do it. Nicely done Mr Lipton.

Neat little piece of tooling, thanks for pointing in the direction of Rob's channell also Tom 👌

Sketching is such an important skill. Anyone can do it. But it takes time to develop. Patience and practice, of course.

I want to thank you for introducing me to ROBRENZ's videos. Unfortunately I'm not a machinist , but I have always loved the mechanics and technology and to approach a genius like ROBRENZ gratifies me very much. Your faithfull viewer from Italy.

Great alternative given different style & size of chuck.

There is another useful application to these types of adjustable stops. When setting up parts in a four jaw where you are machining features that must be square and concentric with existing features on the part. As an example adding O-ring Grooves or repairing bores or ODs. In those circumstances the screw heads can be used to shift the face of the part so you can indicate the part in. And you can do this in a very controllable manner. Additionally if you have a long piece in a four jaw that needs to be zeroed away from the chuck by exerting pressure using a screw such as this you can cause the end of the part to move. This works much better than tapping with a soft hammer or a chunk of copper because it is precisely controlable

A simple, yet elegant idea. Nicely done.

I like your rendition. Thank you Tom.

Good addition to your 4 jaw chuck. Yes Robin definitely has the skills to pay the bills. I subbed when he did work on your level.

Great video Tom, ROBRENZ's channel is great.

Cool design that looks to work great! I met Robin also at Johns shop. Great guy!

I LOVE the fact that you get to the point and show the stuff, many thanks...I do a lot of disc machining like the aluminum puck you show, this will help.

Great addition to the 4-jaw! Thanks for sharing!

Loved it,Tom.

your free hand artistry or "finger cad" is really good. i like your takeoff on roberts system. its very easy to adjust.

Tom --- Sweet design , great video -- Touching off the Hex Heads with an indicator insures that you have a straight plane --- even if the face of the chuck runs out. You da man !

cool...I like the sketch series concept!

Thanks for sharing Robins chuck stops, yours were nicely done and will come in handy for sure! Cheers, Ray

Great video! Your design is much more practical for the engine lathe guys! Robrenzs channel is outstanding! Thanks for mentioning him in your level rebuild!

Yeah, the indicator glare thing. I was thinking about this the other day. Several youtubers have tried polarization filters, with varied success. Polarization filters work because reflected light is polarized, ie: the wavelength only moves vertically as compared to the angle of the reflected surface and position of the light source. The filter is effectively a very fine slotted grid, and only lets through light with a specific polarization. Turn the grid 90 degrees to the reflected light source and it will block the reflected light. This is how fishing sunglasses work, however you are only dealing with the reflected sun. Move inside under 12 double bulb florescent lights and this effect no longer works. Guys with less light sources will have better success with the filters. Have you ever tried to add a bezel around the gauge similar to how a stop light is shielded? A piece of black plastic pipe may be perfect to slip over the face of the bezel, and shade it to help prevent glare? You could try with a band of paper around it. Btw, Modern 3d glasses have lenses polarized at 90 degrees to each other. This allows each eye to see a different image, because the film is projected with different 2 different polarized images and each lens only lets in one of the two allowing your brain to create the 3d. What a super simple solution to a problem, a solution that has been there under their noses for years, and was used during the filming..........

cool, i like the sketch approach. Also, it is utterly mesmerizingto watch steel and copper jaws spinning with an indicator in between. I'm slowly working on renovating this 1916 1500lb Davis Rochester lathe I found here in the French countryside. Thanks for getting me hooked (got your book). Keep on trucking (from France) !

Always a pleasure Tom. I enjoyed it.

nice new theme. thinking I'm going to enjoy the sketch series. I have always be a great fan of the sketch for design. often do multiple sketches of different ways to approach design solution. looking forward to you design thoughts

Bonsoir Tom . Excellente idée !!!! Bravo ! Georges Good evening Tom. Excellent idea !!!! Congratulations! Georges

If it cost me money to hit the like button, I'd smash the thing a few times. Thanks Tom

Tom really like your freehand drawing , you are an artist who also just happens to be a Master Machinist ! I can barely draw a box LOL .

cool .... one more project of cool tools to make...

Actually, I was admiring your rack for quick-change tool holders - neat-o! :)

Very cool ! I'm going to check him out.

Awesome vid. I know I am late to the game but awesome.

The word you were looking for is "normal". After adjusting, the axis of rotation is normal to the face... Which is just a fancy geometrical way of saying perpendicular ;)

He's just uploaded a video of centerless grinding on a surface grinder with a battery drill! Amazing!! 👍👍👍

You're a genius

Most excellent Tom, love the isometric hand sketching! I am glad you decided to show this. Thanks again for your VERY generous promotion of my channel. I want to return the favor but Its hard to imagine having any subs that don't already subscribe to you ATB, Robin

Great stuff Tom , I will check his channel out man !

Really great idea. Except now I've had to change my future chuck what's to a good 4 jaw that also has the tee slots.

I just had that DUH moment. LOL

Hi Tom, Those are simple and efficient, the only thing I'd add it to surface grind the top of the bolts in order to make them a little more precise... Also how much I'd like to spend some time with Robin where there would be so much to learn, he's one of my favorites as far as knowledge in fine precision machining... Cheers, Pierre P.S. How about the hammer...??? Hope you plan to use it as it was meant to...

Ola tom, muito bom , este acessorio ajuda muito .

Idea: How about putting adjustment screws halfway down the arm, that pushed against the face of the chuck? That would allow you to adjust the offset while something was in the chuck, so you could dial in the face of the part, instead of effectively dialing in the back of the part.

They are an elegant solution. For mere mortals, I don't suppose there's a drawing Tom? Your sketch is great, but gimme some dimensions! Rob's channel in outstanding. Thanks for the video.

looks like I've got you hooked on the end screens. how has the other videos end screen performed ?

The new series sounds a bit sketchy to me! lol Looking forward to more Tom. Cheers.

Quite simply - Robin Rocks but there’s only one OX. :) Cool stops.

Did you make a feature to make the buisiness ends of these 'thingies" to rest positively against the chuck body? (like making them a hair hollow at the underside where they rest against the chuck). I could imagine that if they are just flat, they will start to lift slightly from the chuck body in time after a lot of tightenings, or after one overtightening. cheers.

25 years or so ago we tried a similar idea in our shop. The adjustment time was not worth it. Making a few sets of ground plates turned out to be a better option.

I saw Robin's chuck stops when he put up that video, he did a great job. Like all his work, absolutely first class. Tom what's your opinion of using stops like this vs making a removable chuck backstop with a spider on the front of it? I made a spider similar to yours, and also use fixed thickness chuck spiders, but liked Rob's design. Have you used chuck backstops with a spider on the front, and if so did you find them generally accurate enough. The design you showed would certainly be very accurate.

Can you do a video on making the brass chuck jaw covers you have here?

have you tried non reflective coatings? just a thought have not tried myself but maybe you could get them in the states, sometimes a different colored dial face works.

Hey Mr. Lipton, I was looking for your video where you talked about the design of your mill mini-pallet. Could you tell me the title if you remember it? I assume it's in some meatloaf or project video I've watched, but I can't remember which one.

indicator glare? That is indicator overexposure... It is all about the contrast between the brightest and darkest areas of the scene. The camera is going to automagically adjust the exposure for some 'sensible' average exposure level (see 1:18 to 1:30 - the overall luminance is flapping somewhat)). This level is an average of a handful of points, or the entire frame (we'd need to check the specs of the the camera for it's autoexposure parameters). This average is traditionally skin tone or '18% grey'. in the old days, as film cameras had an inbuilt meter that used some sort of averaging, the manufacturers added an exposure compensation dial, because (e.g.) in snowy scenes the snow turned out skin-tone grey and faces were black. In this case, the dark areas of the scene (e.g. the chuck face and the bore hole) have a much lower luminosity, causing the camera to settle on an average that causes massive overexpose in the smaller brighter areas. Note how your hand at 1:11 and 2:00 is completely 'blown out' (i.e too white) and featureless? I'd suggest the camera would be happier if the direct lighting over the entire area was shaded to reduce the overall contrast. No amount of polarisation will help this problem. Can I offer (just for chuckles - or maybe a more serious experiment) that you might set the camera to fixed exposure, and adjust for a readable indicator face. The rest of the scene may end up a little dark as a result, then try to get a little more light on the chuck to see if you can even it up... I love your work, Sir!

Hey I want to make another comment Tom---to hell with using bearings as parallels,i really could have used that gadget of yours today,it really would have helped big time...I guess I am going to have to pull my finger out and make one and eat crow..Keep the ideas and videos coming....regards E

Is there such a thing as a back-lit DTI?, might help occasionally, Dunno, J.

The top of the bolts, the precision of the thread on the bolt and the threaded hole in the stops seem like places where you can lose some accuracy if not being done right. To do this right needs a lot of patience.

Why not tighten the bolts and then take a skim cut? Won't that mean the bolt heads are all normal to the axis of rotation. No need to adjust. Then bolts can be replaced as needed. No need to adjust. Or do I have something wrong?

Forgive the newbie question - but what is the purpose of the set-screw adjustable split at the end of each stop?

this is the link to Robrenz video. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jZ2ajbJkv7rIYIU.html

Nice new format/series Stefan Gotteswinter gave his interpretation of this chuck stops. check out his channel too!

"The Chuck Stops Here"

Robins video.. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jZ2ajbJkv7rIYIU.html

If you want parallels to use on a lathe chuck I reckon you are ignoring the obvious---the old timers used them all the time because they are cheap and they are bearings old and new.. They are ground parallel--In different widths--I use them on the mill lathe everywhere.. In Oz we do not have the tooling availability that you have in your country so we have to improvise all the time especially in the sticks where I live..regards E

Very dangerous, the stop in the slot will shoot out at high RPM and kill you. If you want to use this kind of stop, you must drill and tap a hole in the bottom of the T slot ,and put a screw there to prevent the stop from flying out. You would not believe how often it happens that somebody gets hurt this way.

if you ever loose tightness or forget to tighten them your dead .......

brilliant idea!