@Joe Holton Hiya - which wires were backwards? I've had problems with poor running for years with this bike but any advice is gratefully received.

​@@nightmareuk69sounds like you're on fuel fire mode

Glad I could help!

They should hold steady in the viewing hole. There will be some slight variation in their exact position but they should always be visible. If you move the timing plate ever so slightly you’ll see the dots move.

@@alexonkow Thank you!

Worked like a charm! Took just a few minutes. Thanks again.

That’s just how it’s set up from Harley. There are other times when you’d use the TDC mark but when using a timing light with the engine running you line up the dots.

It's a huge improvement over the 883, but the stock 1200 is big improvement over the 883 as well. If you're looking to make lots of power(more than a stock 1200) then the Hammer is fine. They offer tons of options to get the most out of your sportster. If you have an 883 and want something a bit faster but aren't overly concerned about big power a stock 1200 is more than enough. I looked for stock 12000 pistons and jugs on ebay back before I bought the Hammer Kit but they were hard to come by. There are a lot more on ebay now for decent prices. With the Hammer top end you HAVE to buy 91+ gas or else your engine is likely to knock(mine did). Mine also started to get very noisy after around 8k miles. I think the noise was due to piston slap which is typical of forged pistons.

I have a 1987 883 I got one of the hammer performance hundred horsepower kit with 30-degree reverse Dome Pistons smash head work 570 cams Mikuni 45 carburetor with Billet aluminum intake I was very pleased with it but all I use the bike for is bracket racing it runs low Sevens at 97 miles an hour in the 1/ 8 Mile regardless of what you go with head work makes all the difference

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,On you tube,,,,type,,,,Tatro machine,,,,,he is a well respected harley guru on early and vintage harleys.........check out his channel.....

Yes I think that should be it. Take it off and see if the flywheel is behind it

@@alexonkow I thought you had to set the idle a 2000 rpm and then set the time at road speed?

You use a drill bit. I generally use a #7 so I can tap the hole afterwards 1/4 × 20 Take your time and remain centered. Rivets drill like butter, and you can usually get them out before you distort the factory rivet hole.

Yes,,,,

It’s set to zero

@@fromthebackyard2415 Thank you! I got caked in oil today but I found the video helpful. I guess mine spits out a bunch more than normal.

It doesn’t matter where it starts

i have 98 sportster 1200 xlh i installed the ultima single fire programmable module kit it is preset 35 degrees the 1200 needs 45 in order to rotate the mod to find when the light comes on.i did what you did with the light, i could not really see the marks as well as you showed in your video, very good vid, but all i read is top dead center is the starting point,however i think i hav it dialed now,i got covered in oil,it just took to long to try to line up.i will just keep checking the spark plugs for high carbon build up,i am not a mechanic but i would love to know how to fix things on it myself,parts and labour is expensive.thanks for the reply, didn't really think you would since the vid was a few years oold,anyway thanks again.

@@michaelmcintyre9690 This procedure is for setting stock timing. If your timing is not stock you won’t see the dots. Are you trying to “static” time? This is where you’d have it at TDC and have the ignition on and kill switch on but the engine not running. With it in TDC you’d slowly rotate the module and the red dot on it would light up when it’s in the correct position.

i took it for a run this morning pulled the plugs out and they are burning nice and tan colour.when you are running your bike at top speed what does your tach read.i don' think that you reach 5000 rpm.what do you think. thanks again for the reply@@fromthebackyard2415

@@michaelmcintyre9690 Sorry I dont have a tach

Was told to use a piece of tubing, Ince you mark the timing mark with paint, push tube right to flywheel then back off a small bit , big difference

So ,you put the tubing inside the timing hole and look thru the tube like a periscope? Are you able to shine the light in the tube and still see in there ?

I'm having backfires. The bike will die if it idles too long. New coil, wires, plugs... fairly new carb, freshly cleaned... I don't know

@@allanhenry9469 The two dots are machined on the flywheel from the factory. There are also other markings on the flywheel like "T" and "F." All these markings are for setting the timing of the engine correctly by knowing what position the pistons are at in relation to the firing of the sparkplugs. On a modern stock bike the timing shouldn't really need adjusting unless you are making some drastic changes to the tune. I needed to adjust mine because I changed the size of the pistons/cylinders(883-->1250). The two dots are simply an indicator for proper stock timing. You need the timing light because it picks up the pulse from the spark plug wire and illuminates exactly at that moment showing the flywheel and the two dots which lets you know that the position of the flywheel/crankshaft/pistons are at the correct place. There are also ways of checking the timing without the timing light. It's less accurate and referred to as "static timing." In that case you'd use the T and F marks. For your issue I'd go in this order: -Check battery terminals and make sure they're tight(they come loose over time, I encounter this issue the most) -Drain the carb(if there's water in the gas bike can run/idle but will die when given throttle) -Pull plugs, clean them and check gap. Run bike and recheck plugs. Are they oily? Wet with gas? Sooty? -Air filter clean? -Check for throttle body gasket leak(where carb connects to each piston. You can spray starter fluid around connection and if rpms rise you have a leak) -Is the carb stock or has it been modified? Check it's settings Backfires usually indicate a fuel/exhaust tune issue

@@fromthebackyard2415 the carb I stock. There was quite a bit of sediment in the bowl of the carb, and in the bottom. I've cleaned it but I don't know how to get the smallest jet out. The big one came out with a flathead, nothing I own will pull out the smaller jet.

@@fromthebackyard2415 also, when I turn the throttle the bike hesitates before really reving up and sometimes sputters... and I'll hear what sounds like a pressurized burst of air coming back through the aircleaner.

@@allanhenry9469 have you ridden the bike and has it ever run ok? My bike will backfire through the carb if I don’t let it warm up before riding. If I leave the choke on for a couple minutes while I ride it will eliminate the backfiring. Does your choke cable work properly? I replaced mine last year because it wouldn’t stay pulled out.

And your bike won't run afterwards.. because it locked up..do to no oil in the engine. 🤦,,,,,,Or it will start knocking then lock up... shortly after..don't take this advice people..

I'm hoping this is sarcasm..🤔

Obviously it’s sarcasm. Internet sucks. Nobody has a sense of humor.

If you ran Slick 50 in it before hand you could drain the oil, set the timing, test drive it to make sure everything is cool and then put oil back in.

Ok. Well I set the timing like this years ago and the bike runs fine. Can you explain that?