You are very welcome

Why, thank you!

Thanks!

Glad it was helpful!

You're welcome!

Glad it was helpful!

You're welcome! There is a screw right next to the pilot tube (it's a tight fit) that when removed, exposes the access hole to the pilot adjusting screw down in the hole. You'll need an 1/8" slotted screwdriver to turn the adjusting screw clock-wise to reduce the flame. You'll likely need to try "bottoming out" the screw and then back it off to get the flame you want.

You're welcome! I'd also strongly consider having your furnace checked by someone who can use a combustion analysizer to make sure you are not generating excessive amounts of CO .

You are most welcome! I remember I got them from Firedragon, but he's retired. Didn't want to go into that in the video. It maybe that's where he got them?! Thanks again!

Thank you! Yes, there should be a noticeable when 24v ac is applied across PV/MV (or common) and PV from the flame control unit. I take it that you have already verified with a test meter the presence of 24vac at those two terminals on a trial for ignition. As to your second question, I'm not sure if I understand what you are asking, sorry.

You are most welcome! In regards to the water hammer in the building you are working in, I'm assuming that the noise starts soon after the boiler starts firing. If that is so, I would first check the sightglass to determine the water level in the boiler. Please make sure the sightglass is telling the truth, that is to say not clogged and showing a false water level. If the sightglass is showing the true water level, make sure that the water level in the boiler shows at the middle of the glass. Watch the water level as the boiler starts firing. Does the level bounce up and down greater than one inch? If so, you may have contaminated water in the boiler and returns. Shut the boiler down and drain all of the water out and re-fill. These are a few of the things you can try to stop the banging. Yes, "wet steam" is a thing. A thing to be avoided! Stay safe.

Du bist ein gute Mensche!

I think you are referring to a 1/8" NPT brass pressure tap fitting by Maxitrol (SKU# PF10). Is that it?

@@gordonschweizer5154 yes thank you.

We generally down-fire from 3.5" H2O to about 3.0 because the local utility likes to spike the gas with ethane during the winter. Also, most steam boilers are oversized and short-cycle at their rated input. Often, we find the gas pressure comes from the factory set at 4.0" H2O which is too high by the book.

@@gordonschweizer5154 thank you. I'm just getting into heating and your videos are an excellent resource.

I think you are referring to the air vent/bleed. The cover (which has a tiny hole off to the side) is there to keep out dirt, debris, insects, etc.

Hi! Without some means of measuring your actual pressure, any statement from me would be a pure guess and probably wrong.

Thank you for your questions! First, I most certainly did NOT plug off that burner. It came that way from the factory. The pressure drop from 7" H2O to 4.5" H2O when the burners fire represent a problem with the gas supply. Most likely the 1910 gas line fron the street is choked with rust. Our gas distribution grid is... antiquated. The last known wooden gas piping was removed in 1987. It was installed in 1868. The old boiler we took out was too small according to our survey of the connected load, so the inlet gas supply issue will need to be addressed at some point.

@@gordonschweizer5154 Thanks so much for responding! Sorry I misunderstood you on the burner plug...at 0:26 sec. of your 12/17 video it sounds like you say "we've plugged that one because".......so I didn't understand that to mean the mfg. plugged it....once again...great videos!

@@proengineering661 & Gordon I believe I can shed some light on your concerns of gas pressure. My expertise comes from 35 years with the gas utility in St Louis, Missouri and in my retirement I still consult from time to time when incidents occur, so let's go over our concerns. From my understanding this is an older neighborhood with a low pressure system ( no regulator at the meter set). Gordon you did a great job of checking the pressures at the boiler but anytime we have a 2.5" pressure drop on the fuel runs this is a cause for concern and we need to dig a little deeper because a 1" pressure drop is in the order of the maximum allowable per the National Fuel Gas Code ,AGA & GAMA.#1 when checking pressures on the fuel runs we should always check that with all the gas appliances running, taking pressures at the farthest fuel run away from the gas meter.#2 if the pressure drop is excessive we will need to take pressures at the outlet of the gas meter. With all the appliances running and we notice an excessive pressure difference between the meter and the end fuel run, this would indicate a problem with the fuel runs ( under-sized or some type of debris blockage) but on the other hand if an excessive pressure drop is still noticed at the outlet of the gas meter we now know that is a gas utility problem and they should be contacted immediately. The utility would dispatch this as a poor pressure problem and a gas utility service technician would be dispatched ASAP. Hope some of this information helps and y'all please stay safe out there.

@Bob Y: One of the last times I called a gas utility on a low gas pressure problem/issue, the fellow showed up with a 'tude and acted like it was my fault and did nothing. Wasted several hours of my life for no pay. This has happened twice, so I learned my lesson. Unless it is causing the unit to actually drop out of service and cause a no heat issue, I am not going to initiate a call during the winter just yet.

@@gordonschweizer5154 , sorry to hear you had a bad experience with your local gas supplier. Wish I could say all Gas Utilitie service departments were ran like the one I worked for . We have between 200 and 300 service technicians , all HVAC certified technicians from the superintendent all the way down to the man that just got hired & that's not even covering the certification the gas company puts us through. Just an FYI, just by you not contacting the gas utility about a potential pressure problem leaves you and your company in jeopardy of taking on a lot of liability. You do not have to wait there wasting your time, just leave your telephone number with the customer and the technician should be contacting you with his findings. The main thing is that the customer's equipment and fuel runs are all in order. Anytime you have a disagreement with the Gas utilitie's service technician you should call in and have one of the supervisors contact you. Usually these are caused by misunderstandings and the supervisor is there to straighten out any misunderstandings and answer any questions you may have; but by not wanting to deal with the gas utility because of past experiences solves no problems. Gordon, I hope some of this information helps you, stay safe out there, keep learning & teaching.

We very seldom do commercial sized boilers, sorry.

Barry, I deal with Ware Boiler Co out of Louisville Kentucky .Ware has some of the best training videos for commercial boilers on KZfaq ( called the boiling point). I find their training some of the best in the business and my main go to anytime I have questions on large commercial systems. Hope this helps I'm sure you will enjoy Richie Ware's videos., let me know what you think and stay safe out there.

Not this valve shown above. This set-up is for electronic ignition. The basics for the gas pressure check & adjustment is largely the same, however.

It would be folly on my part to advise you on your coffee roaster gas control since I am totally unfamiliar with that piece of equipment & with those pressures with natural gas. They seem closer to what propane gas requires for proper operation.

Maybe, but I would check the incoming gas pressure to the valve to make sure it is always above 4.5 inches of water column before trying to adjust downstream pressure. If so, check the manifold pressure and see if it is no more than 3.5" H2O. Then check to see if your orifices are clear. Ran into a job where spiders had built a web inside of them!

@@gordonschweizer5154 thank you for taking the time

This gas control valve is for safely controlling the flammable gas to the burner manifold. Other limit controls such as thermostats, aquastats, etc, monitor and control the temperature and thus they control the combination gas control valve to turn on and off in this situation

That's a very broad question with a lot of different answers. It depends...

NO oil or any liquid is used inside these valves.

Does your system use a "standing pilot" with a thermocouple?

@@gordonschweizer5154 it was the igniter. Thank you for the reply. I am bad at youtube.

Resideo is the company spun off from Honeywell about 2 years ago, IIRC. New boilers with standing pilots/24 volt controls have been forbidden to be made in the USA since about 2013. With most standing pilot boilers, if you lost main power, you still lost heat, unless you had back-up power. Only those with millivolt systems didn't loose heat, but millivolt systems have been gone for decades (unless you're Amish - no joke).

They might be set at the factory, but do you have a gauge to check? If you don't test, it's just a guess.

@@gordonschweizer5154 I have no gauge (manometer) to test it but I gather you can clock the gas meter to see that it’s firing at the correct rate and adjust if needed based on the clocking. Oddly the loud buzzing stopped and it’s run several times without any noise or issues recently. Perhaps the solenoids had just been sitting too long over the summer without use? Or maybe it’ll come back again? Thoughts? All I know is for now it’s functioning

@@gordonschweizer5154 I ended up paying a gas licensed plumbing company to come install it. 10 minutes and easily something I could have done myself. When he was done I asked “no pressure checks no carbon monoxide test, are they preset from the factory or something” his response “yep they’re preset when it’s an exact valve swap and unless there’s any startup issues no need”. Legit could of done it myself. Waited and worried for umm nothing and now it just costs more.

@@lh98 That sucks. So you have no proof that your piece of heating equipment is not producing excessive levels of CO after paying them? They didn't do their job correctly & you might consider reporting them because they handed you a line of BS.

@@gordonschweizer5154 well the original installer did mount a co detector right above where the thermal cutoff switch firomatic is so I guess at least that should do it’s job. Funny gas company doesn’t want unlicensed folks doing things but it sounds like licensed ones charge a bunch for doing about the same as unlicensed lol

Most of them don't need to be in theory (they should be set @ the factory 3.5" of H2O) but if you don't check, it's on you if you just install and walk away. Some burners need lower settings per their instructions, which should be consulted. If you don't have to have a low pressure gauge like the one above, you can also "clock" the gas meter.

@@gordonschweizer5154 how is that done

I don't know, but I'll find out and report back.

@@gordonschweizer5154 wow. Thank you for the quick response! I am currently in NY and I am trying to start my (direct ignition) furnace for the first time but it’s a new one and it’s not kicking on. Gas valve is open, knob is turned to ON position.

@@lancer717 You're welcome. Sorry you are cold and your ignition system is not giving you joy. You have your knob in the correct position, ON. I am not sure exactly what c does (I remember playing around with it on gas controls I've taken apart), but I do know it is not helpful to you in your hour of need.

@@gordonschweizer5154 my only thought is I’m missing a reset switch somewhere. Although I have an automatic hot surface ignition. Tomorrow I’ll see if the thermostat went bad.

You should be able to use a standard 1/8" NPT nipple, nothing special.

@@gordonschweizer5154 Thank you very much Mr Gordon! I can find the 1/8" nipple in the hardware store right?

@@manuelitoreal2608 Yes, and I'd try to find a 1/8 x 3" brass nipple or two ("One to use, one to lose").

@@gordonschweizer5154 I appreciate you help Mr Gordon

The outer scale is in inches of H2O. The inner scale is in oz/in2. Find the 5 on the outer scale. Go counter-clockwise. Each tic is 0.5" The short tics are the half numbers. The long tics are the whole numbers. 3 tics down from the 5 is 3.5"

@@gordonschweizer5154 Thank you. Will take time (study) for this to sink in.

Hi! I cannot see your valve, so I hope I don't steer you wrong. Is there, by any chance, some other inputs to your gas valve, like a small plastic tube leading into another part of the gas valve? There might be a feed-back from other parts of your burner that can shift the manifold pressure based on load. There are a lot of o.e.m. variations of this valve! I would strongly urge you to get a hold of the set-up manual for your unit and double-check the set-up pressures listed in the literature for your unit. You may be over-firing your unit and creating dangerous levels of CO.

I can't say I would disagree with you.