Such a gorgeous book - each shed is unique and inspiring, and I love all the tiny details Kotite features to help readers imagine how to create their own She Sheds kzfaq.infoUgkxe9yi0sulKgsp0VJJCIrLWWkvVqcU7LFR . The feature on Dinah's Rustic Retreat is like something from a fairy tale. It's really inspiring to see how creative all these ordinary people are in making beautiful and useful spaces on a modest scale.

In Canada, advanced framing was around years ago. We just called it “discount housing”. If we had changed the name maybe it would still be popular.

Well, who knew, apparently the cost-saving framing that I've used over the years to build garden sheds makes me an "advanced framer".

This application meets code. It's rare to see a stud fail, but it if they did it would be for water related issues. Once water gets to the framing it doesn't matter what type of framing type you will see a failure. This is why you see me doing so many videos on weatherization. I'm a stickler on my Tyvek details. Best, Matt

I don't do Advanced Framing on every project. I really need to be involved at the start of Architectural Design in order for this system to work properly. For instance, if the floor system isn't designed for Adv Framing you might be forced to stay with 16" OC Stud spacing. My framer was open to learning these methods and we reviewed the details & expectations prior to the start of framing. Best, Matt Risinger

Although many doubt the strength values here, a 2x6 is more than twice as stiff as a 2x4. The value is known as the section modulus. The Section modulus of a 2x4 is 3.06, while the section modulus of a 2x6 is 7.56. With the exterior fully sheathed it becomes even stiffer. As long as the building is properly engineered, this system will be as strong as any other system. California corners are a great way to help with energy. All US Building codes require 3 studs in each corner. The California corner has 3 studs, just in a different configuration form what used to be the norm. There are some problems associated with wider spacing on the studs, especially things like cabinets, but I always add a little extra blocking to allow me to mount cabinets. I did notice in the view of that one bottom plate that the anchor bolts were just barely within the 2x6 sill plate. That would never fly in Earthquake country. By the way, I am an Engineer and also a builder. I have been building for nearly 35 years. I have built homes on both coasts and there are a lot of changes involved in going from West to East Coast. This system isn't really that advanced, it's a selling point for this builder's homes. Remember, never assume that what you want to do is legal until you talk with your local building department. They have the final say on what is structurally sound for your area.

Excellent video. I love the tip about the 5/8" Dry Wall. Makes sense. Looks nicer and has extra acoustical value compared to the thinner grades.

Appreciate the comments. I do try to focus on the positive. Best, Matt

My house is 2 x 6 exterior walls 24 inch center. 2 x 4 24 inch center roof trusses, 2 × 4 24 inch centered floor trusses and 2 × 4 interior walls. The trusses are great for achieving long distance spans without the need for support beams or poles. I am a firm believer in 16 inch spacing. Even with 5/8 sheetrock and oak floors the waves in the wall are very noticeable as well as the floor. House was built in 79, all seams are showing, floors are buckling, big price to pay for some added insulation benefits.

i'm a computer science student, i don't know what the heck i'm doing watching this guy's video for the last 3 days

Thanks Joe, always appreciate your support and comments. Best, Matt

The remodel at the start of the video has a HERS rating of 48 so the difference before/after should be dramatic. I estimate the electric bills to be 1/2 to 1/3 of pre-remodel use. I'll see if I can gather that for a future video. Best, Matt

2x6 on 16 inch centers is what I use. Live in the North East with big snow loads. Lumber isn't as strong as it use to be, don't cheap out. All kinds of great insulating techniques, use them.

Matt, thank you, your videos are very educational, I was trained back in the 70's and it good to see updates.

Matt, I thank you for the quality videos. I'm getting ready to build a home and am referring to your videos for much of my construction. It's very obvious that you build quality!

I have more of an issue with "off-gassing" spray foam insulation than I do with traditional framing. "Advanced" framing will get you canned in the quality world. Pictures fall off walls when doors close too hard, ears pop from the drywall flex from opening and closing doors. roof loads, wind loads, etc. Been there, seen that, addressed that, fixed that. Tract builder grade workmanship is unacceptable in the custom world. 38 year contractor in Florida here. Framing for most of them. If it feels cheap, it probably is. "The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low cost is forgotten."

“California Corners” are easier for electrical too.

Thanks! Always nice to hear positive feedback. Best, Matt

Great point. We used an Engineer to size all the headers in the house, and omitted headers in non-load bearing walls. Best, Matt

And on the other hand, I know a guy whose father built a house in Gulfport, MS with 2x6 walls on 12" centers and the house survived both Hurricane Camille and Hurricane Katrina. I'm from Texas, I don't do *California* *anything*.

You're on point about thinking about insulation values on things like usingv2x6s and insulated headers. But, California corners have little to no structural value. And relying on the glues and hardware of engineered lumber is too dependant on every other system, I.e roofing, siding, and HVAC to operate perfectly and be maintained. Traditional framing has its merits and necessities that can't be tossed aside for the sake of energy efficiency.

Thanks Matt! I've been following your videos for about a year now, they're all great! I've learned alot in the past year between books and the internet and have become quite a building nerd myself. My current trade skill is electrical that i've aquired from the military and college. I plan to expand my knowledge and eventually become a builder or contractor and try to follow the same way you build. Keep up the good work and looking forward to more vids. Jason

Clear and concise. Been researching proposed advanced framing techniques. This 1 makes good common sense - really liked the header technique

I framed houses for 5 years about 22 years ago and we always used California corners. I live near Toronto so cold is a concern in the winter. 2X6's or 2X4's with clad mate or glass clad were the norm to get R20 on the walls. I don't think I like the 24" centres though. Sure, a bit better insulating value and a bit less in lumber but I like the idea of overbuilding. Engineered wood is a great idea for the headers.

After watching this video I've never been happier to live in an area with strict building codes.

Matt, It's 2021 and it's nice to know you haven't changed a bit. Just upped your production value.

Regarding my background, I have a degree in Industrial Management and got my start at 22 with a National Builder. I fell into Building Science because of failures encountered during the mold crisis of 2001-02. That mold scare lead me to question the "that's how we've always done it" mentality. I attended an EEBA training day called "Houses that Work" taught by Mark LaLiberte and my eyes were opened to the world of Building Science. I wish you great success in your endeavors! Best, Matt

With 24” on center and sheeting it with OSB, would the OSB bow over the years because of the studs being spaced further apart?

You are standing on a concrete slab and not a cement slab. Cement is but one ingredient of concrete. Example: It would be like telling a baker "thank you for baking me a flour" instead of "thank you for baking me a cake" Great vid!

I sheath all exterior walls in either OSB or preferably 1/2" CDX plywood here in Austin. You would need to consult with a structural engineer to see if this is necessary structurally for your location, however full plywood is a best practice regardless of structural minimums. Best, Matt

Thank you for this video. Learning something new.

24" on center is fine....for non load bearing interior walls. Also a California corner is not as strong, moreover all exterior walls should be 2x6 anyway, not 2x4 and guess what ? 16" on center.

Is your background in insulation or framing.

Matt what are your updated thoughts on drywall clips as opposed to the backer board in the 2board corners (cal corner)

I wrote an ignorant comment before I knew who Matt is. He is a legend in the Austin area so I tuck my tail and delete my ignorant comment! I know base framing code and quite a lot about most aspects of the home building industry but nothing compared to those on the cutting edge like Matt. He deals with the top 1%of homes for the top 1% of clients. Also Austin is the leading green building city in the country and maybe the world, led by Miki Cook and many others and that is a separate inspection process from the City of Austin, who has incredibly detail oriented inspectors who won’t let anything not up to code slide by, not that Matt ever builds ‘just to code’ as his stuff is way above this. He knows a hundred times what I know about the latest trends so I am embarrassed my comment was here so long looking back at it. Didn’t even remember posting it until someone agreed and I revisited it, having learned more about him and his company since then.

As a Midwesterner I was shocked when Matt said he was only putting R19 in, I kept thinking the homeowners were going to freeze in the winter

I read some comments that I can't seem to reply to.. 24 o.c. is legal and will pass inspection, but your shearing is spec differently based on wind loads by engineers, so it'll only pass inspection if your plans allow you to build it that way. While it seems like a decent idea, and appear to save money by using less lumber there's several steps that potentially increases overall labor. For us, labor is more expensive than material 90% of the time. Going back to spec, for us in CA we spec for 80 mph wind loads. Going 24 o.c. means more strap ties, more blocking, etc. The video here, the builder is using LSL studs. That mitigates need for a lot of blocking (unless spec at sheathing edges, or shear transfers at windows, etc), but DF is much more difficult to work with because of the age of the wood, warping, and shrinkage which at 24 o.c. could leave a lot of imperfections (immediate and overtime) to your walls after sheetrock installation. Is 24 o.c. a smarter method of framing? No engineers will go out of their way to spec it for you unless you ask. It makes very little difference in cost, the overall difference in insulation is marginal at best, and overall 24 oc just makes your project indirectly more difficult to work with from my experience. There's a good reason why no one's going 24 o.c any time soon. You'll see engineers who worry about dead load go to a 24 o.c. rafter or floor joist, but from my experience that creates too much bounce and undesirable finish. There are better ways to insulate than just spacing studs the furthest possible distance apart. 24" o.c. is a penny smart, dollar foolish decision. Anyone who suggest otherwise, I'm willing to bet that you're not the one doing the installation and hands on building.

Jason, That's really cool buddy. This country needs more guys who are studied in building science and have the courage to do the right thing. Sounds to me like you've got a bright future in front of you. Best, Matt

Have you thought about using metal banding to create an x on each wall with a nail in each stud that the banding crosses.. It may not seem like much but by doing this the lateral stability is greatly enhanced an at a minimal cost.

You use 16" on centre over 24". Because if a stud takes off on you the ones beside it help keep the wall looking straight. As well as its structurally more solid and for the few hindered bucks at most it's well worth it

Now I see the reason why I cant find a stud at 16" and why I have stock in drywall patch! Lol good vid.

great tips, I like the pressure treated for 24 inches. I like the California corner for insulation ability. I too agree that 2 by 6 framing 24 on Center is adequate. 2x4 truss floor is good too. I'm sure you deliver a quality product at a fair price. I'm a metal stud framer and have been framing for 28 years our company does a lot of commercial Condominiums in San Francisco

A nice explanation about the advanced framing. Thanks I have learnt many things from here

Yea he is wrong... i agree with the guys below. It may be advance for insulation but thats it,, tt leaves weak walls. He is saying use 5/8 sheetrock because 2' on center studs would make 1/2 rock to weak.The plywood on bottom and OSB on top make no sense at all except that OSB is cheaper. The blocking at plywood joints is wrong if it is a shear wall. Its all a sales gimmick,, save on wood for cheap house and charge customer for advance framing LOL....

I built my first home in 1978. In California. I've built hundreds since then. "California Corner" was originally coined as a disrespectful term like "California rolling stop". It meant you were cheating and trying to go faster, saving time! You build in Austin and you're worried about the R value you lose with lumber? LMAO! That might make a cool sales pitch to a tree hugger but it will NEVER be noticed on a utility bill even in Alaska. It amazes me how all the newbs in this industry are always trying to eliminate lumber from a structure! I worked for a company a while back that eliminated trimmers from all their door openings saying "they weren't necessary"! Try to hang a solid core door on that! I quit them. Do you seriously think your homes will hold up as long as the old skool methods? SMH! Material is not near the quality it once was. I see 10 year old homes daily that have worse deterioration than one built 50 years ago simply because the lumber, hardware, virtually everything is of lesser quality. Hell, its all made in China! If you want to reinvent the wheel young man you need to think beyond lumber and drywall, etc. Frankly, I can't believe we are still using those materials at this point.

Matts a beauty. Feels like the kinda guy youd like to work for.

I like applying the OSB vertically on the walls so as to eliminate all the hours/material of blocking, as well as having a continuous/unbroken tie from floor to ceiling......Ply and OSB are available up to 12' long panels. Some horizontal siding benefits from 16" o.c. framing for the extra fastening points available- they both have their advantages. Thanks for sharing your techniques....

"Advanced framing by building walls 24" OC" Is a quick way to get a "Red tag" (stop work order) placed by the building department in most areas of the country.

Next we'll show you my company's advanced Square Wheel System.......

Great info on lumber saving. Our plans are to 24" on center the tiny home with Cali corners. I think we may go 2x6 for Insulation Value benefits.

Thanks for your kind words! My hope is that my videos and blogs will help encourage others to raise the bar on quality expectations. Best, Matt

I framed homes for 21 years and Im here to tell you, 24 oc studs, bump into that sheetrock wall! I bet you will almost go thru it versus 16 on center. At 3:08 the freaking anchor bolt is half way out of the wall lol thats really secure eh?? Ive used California corners and im okay with that. 2X6 wall studs, 5/8ths sheet rock and non OSB plywood is going to cost someone out of the ass. Ah, the young "educated" guys just know it all dont they?

I have an odd question: I've been doing research for my own house build. I've settled on the pole barn style instead of this type of traditional American framing. The reason for my choice is how much sturdier a pole barn style seems to be compared to this style. Also it will be cheaper for me to pour concrete pillars for each pole rather than a whole slab. My question: How come no contractors do a pole style when building a modern house? Why is it standard to do load bearing walls instead? Would love it if your answered, but any professional can chime in. Thanks!

Love these videos Matt, thanks

Hey Matt I've been debating on doing 24" oc framing but I'm not sold on the floor yet. Have you had any problems with it?

I think Matt is very experienced and knows his market and modern building. I have to say, however, I would agree with the carpenter Larry Haun who goes with traditional 16" OC for studs.

When it catches on fire it is an extreme hazard for firefighters. Engineered lumber can't hold up under fire loads and can be the killer of firefighters.

I always hear what not to do, but actually learn from examples of how to do instead. You provided good alternatives. I appreciate your excellent verbal skills so I can concentrate on the video and not correct grammar in my head.

Thank you for helping to keep me in business by telling people less framing is a good idea. Almost every 24oc house I work in has bowed, crooked or wavy walls. There isn't enough structure in 24oc framing. The house moves too much. Needing to put blocking in your walls also negates your argument about getting more insulation in the walls. In an 8 foot span you're only saving one stud because my 16oc wall doesn't need blocking. Besides, there is almost no thermal transfer in a 2x6, especially in a mild climate. But to each his own.

16 o.c. is overkill 24 o.c. is more than enough. Yeah right, not on my house you won't !!!

Hi Matt! Thanks again. Always so useful. Does 'the perfect wall' system contradict this in any way? Ie. Is an R10 header okay? Can the home be framed 2x6, 24 oc, if I wanted a similar look as your white home build that had zero sheetrock? Thank you.

So glad he brought up the 5/8 drywall i was gonna chirp hard on wavy walls, joint cracks and screw pops with 1/2 inch on 24”. Good video !

As an Electrician I personally WILL NOT wire a house built like this. I always end up adding in spacer studs to attach my wall boxes to because I have very limited wall area to land my outlet and switch boxes properly. I've also noticed builders are now using headers ALL around the perimeter of the house and I refuse to drill up a header to get my wire through it. I recommend traditional construction and will keep major cost down with the other trades that need to come in and do their work. Builders come up with all these "NEW" better idea but are only keeping their out of pocket costs down to pad their wallets and shafts all the other trades. This is a joke for a build.

You can buy a shed at Lowe's built on twenty four in centers, I guess those are "advanced sheds"... And mobile homes and RVs have used polyfoam insulation for decades, so what is so advanced about this?

Awesome, Matt good info. getting ready to build my retirement home and I will definitely employ these techniques. what about a video on the Owens blown in insulation you mentioned in this video. Thanks again keep em coming

All homes should be framed 16 inches on center.Saving money is all i see.

I did Pure Advanced framing on my personal home, here in Iowa. Single top plate, Header hangers, no jack studs, and single headers pushed to outside. We also did 2x6 24" centers but I did 5/8" OSB on outside ran horizontal and no joints over windows, really makes it strong, Pure 2 stud corners but no clips use Metal Drywall Strips Ask your drywall guy they use them a lot on Ceilings to help with future cracking. Also did 5/8" drywall on outside walls. We did 24" center in whole house but Used High strength 1/2 on inside walls. R-5 Foam on outside taped no Tyvek. HERS score of 47 with hybrid 2 stage Air Heat pump/ 97% 2 stage furnace. Zone 5 climate. First home done this way with Indoor Air plus and Energy star 3.0+

Personaly I have 30 yrs experience framing as the typical "California Framer" & I think he has some great ideas on being innovative but I did find some weak points on this method #1 structual sheathing has its shear strength vertically not horizontally. #2 all sheathing seams should be side by side & landing on a doubler or a 3x (I prefer a 3x4 for 2x4 walls & double 2x6 for 2x6 walls) less bowage that way & the truss joists are new to me & would choose "TJI Silent Floor Joists" for all 2nd story & up applications. I need to start making videos & stop swinging my mag 77 for a living.

Great video. I'm currently debating floor truss (12" deep, 18' span) spacing (19.2 vs 24). I would really like to go to 24" spacing for many reasons but am concerned about overall stiffness and added cost for thicker subfloor and gypsum. I have also heard floor trusses on 24" centers can be noisy. 19.2 appears to be a reasonable compromise but seems to be more challenging to coordinate with sheet goods and wall framing not to mention more challenging MEP coordination (this is a small house, space is at a premium and I would like all systems in floor cavity). Does 1-1/8" decking resolve issues at 24" spacing? I guess I am trying to determine if the cost of the decking is less cumbersome than the issues created by 19.2" centers. Any experienced, productive feedback would be appreciated.

On 16 oc studs can I install horizontal bars at every 48"?

It’s a concrete slab, not a cement slab. Cement comes in bags.

What's the advantage of 24' center vs 16' center other than $$$.

As usual a very informative video. I've watched your other video concerning T-Studs and am wondering what is better? Do you plan to complete a comparison video?

Hey Mat. Why do you have horizontal blocking at the 5-6' level? Also w the 5/8" drywall, is there any insurance advantages? As you now have a 1 hour wall. Do you also,hang 5/8's on the lids?

This is called "light construction". It is a design that insures reduced cost, quicker collapse in fire, dead firefighters, more lost homes. Oh yeah and did I mention it saves a little bit of money?

What will drive all of this/codes is the unions. Not saying this is good or bad but it is what it is. The University of Minnesota built a new football stadium less than 5 years ago. They tried to make it as "green" as possible, so they installed urinals that required no water. Long story short is that the union ran water to every urinal in the stadium. The water is not connected however. That's the code.

Ladder framing. Best, MR

When you sprayed the ceiling joist cavities, was there also batting above the foam? I am doing some remodeling in the Houston area and trying to decide how to tackle the ceiling insulation.

Good job placing the anchors outside the wall (3:00) you had 5 1/2" and still missed.

hmmm.. lots of comments here from the " I read this in a book" crowd.

That project looks good. For my last project in an 8800 Heating Degree Day area in the Upper Midwest I used 2x6 studs on 24" centers with an inch of XPS sheet under the T1-11 sheet siding (minimal budget rural project). We believed the excellent Marvin Windows were worth the price for their double glazing, the low-e coating, the argon gas fill, and fine quality and aesthetics. Window area was limited to a percent of the floor area, and positioned to favor passive gain (calculated eaves overhang to shade the sills between the equinoxes). We ordered roof trusses with a 16" energy heel, and blew in R60-depth insulation. 3/4" rock in the ceilings. The big thing for comfort was radiant in-floor heating, an extremely tightly-sealed space, and positive, continuous ventilation at a calculated rate, with a 60' run of buried (under the footings to grade, sloped lot) make-up air duct for earth-tempering. Where I live now, nearly 11,000 HDD climate, I'd do it a bit differently, obviously. OTH, the principles are the same, tight house, positive make-up tempered ventilation, no cold surfaces, high mean radiant temperature... comfortable for babies!

when your rafters are 24"on center, what size sheetrock should be used to prevent sagging

so you save a couple hundred bucks on lumber and add5x the cost for insulation wow good job saving the clients money maybe you can let them know about the 8$/mth they ll save on energy costs due there high cost insulation

That better be a one flat house..cause if it's a two storey or more.. he's definitely gotta use good old "traditional" framing.. 😁😁

Enjoyed watching this video. I was a carpenter for 20 years and now am in health care. We are preparing to build a mountain cabin and we're considering using 2x6 for exterior walls as you recommend. Back in the day I asked a builder why we did not insulate the empty spaces in corners and inside headers. He told me dead air space was a good insulator too. I accepted this and never questioned the information. Does dead air space have any insulaing value?

damn, dude... i just learned a lot... that advanced framing makes so much sense... and that california corner... DANG... makes so much sense... good video.... NO BS

The real question is, will the building inspector pass off on that.

24" on center? Not here you will not pass your framing inspection unless you're living in a garage (Mich)

I’d love to see a comparison with the OG tradition of timber framing vs traditional stick framing and advance framing.

I agree, just wanted to share a real-world experience with the board. :) All the best, Tim

my house built in 1910 with double brick will be around long after any chipboard slap ups built today will be sitting in the dust

24" studs? Sure, that's up to code. Oops, the nice inspector in any urban area will tell you to tesr it down, and do it again on 16" centers.

Getting off on a tangent makes you human...nice bubble, nice use of drawing for cold corner great work. You Da man...

Do you install full headers above every door and window, including ones located on non load-bearing walls? I have seen publications and details where non load-bearing walls will omit headers as unnecessary. I imagine that does have implications on finishing/flashing/etc.

2 ft on center and you better have used 5/8 drywall or it will look like crap.

"Advanced framing"......euphemism for cheaply built house to maximize profit for the builder.

I'm an avid student of Building Science. If you're new to Building Science I'd recommend buying the "Builders Guide" to your climate zone written by Dr Joe Lstiburek. Matt Risinger

Awesome work, can you please do a video on how you do the exterior rigid foam.

Lots of fun comments here. As with any industry the traditionalists have to be dragged kicking and screaming into the future. I know, I worked in the car industry and watched the Big 3 get their asses handed to them. They were building old school heavy shit that was unreliable and inefficient. I'm now in a position financially to have a custom house built, but some of the comments here from so called craftsman concern me. They may be exceptional carpenters, which I greatly admire, but really, what qualifications do you have regarding structural strength calculations. A 2x6 24"OC wall has a greater section strength than 2x4 16"OC. A semester of college level Strength of Materials will teach you that, so how can pounding nails for 25 years somehow make you qualified to dispute that. This kind of construction is being studied and has been proven. As a lay person even I can go do a little research and find that. Scary shit.

OSB SHEER PANELS ARE WAY MORE STRUCTURALLY EFFICIENT.... AND WAY ..LESS EXPENSIVE...STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY AND REASONABLE CONSTRUCTION COSTS!!!