Thank you sir. My compressor wouldn’t come on, ran into your video, went straight to Lowe’s and then Tractor Supply, got a new “dewalt” 175 max psi pressure switch, replaced it and my shop is back up and running. You saved my rear. Thank you. (I’ve still yet to here back from manufacture as to what the problem couldve been, ridiculous) Take care! Thank you much!

I like these little tidbits of info and how to videos. Well done indeed!

You're lucky, my Lowe's 60 gal compressor just blew up with oil blasting all over the garage. That POS always leaked air and oil and couldn't gets above 120 psi. Had no idea it kept on running for so long time, think either overload or low oil tripped it. House could have caught on fire.

Thanks for the video! I have to do this on Monday as my switch just died after 11 years

Good call on powering directly to motor. My compressor stopped too. Nothing when pressure switch is engaged. I tested start/run capacitor s and have power to the motor from the switch, but I think I'm in your boat. I'll have to direct wire tomorrow and see if it turns the motor. If not, I guess I need a new motor. Thanks!

Good video , I replaced mine a few weeks back

My switch crapped out recently and had to do the same thing. 👍👍

Thanks for putting this video out. Most home shop air compressors use pressure switches similar to yours. I can say it is easy to damage them accidentally. I did not know it would damage the switch but accidentally left the shipping plug in that is in the top of the oil reservoir to keep oil from spilling when turned. It should be replaced with a vented plug that it comes with. That little bit of usage without changing to the vented plug for the crankcase of the compressor somehow will damage the inside of these pressure switches through that plastic return hose. Just an FYI so someone else doesn't do the same thing on a new air compressor.

Great video

In many cases true one doesn't need the 175psi...but it does give you more run time for your tools

Thanks for posting this. Is the switch still holding up? Not great reviews on Tractor Supply, a few said it crapped out pretty fast.

Mine would go to kick on and then hum and try to kick on and blow breaker on motor , drain all the air out and it would run fine and kick off. Replaced switch and was good . This was on a 6 month old DeWalt 60 gallon .

i did that like 3x on my compressor because the pressure it kicks on is too low. recently i bought a 7 dollar air pressure switch off amazon or ebay. if you do this you install it by tapping into an air pressure line and wiring in the pressure switch in parallel with your current air pressure switch. then see what pressure the compressor kicks in at.

The brass POP OFF valve is a compression style.fitting..it needs NO SEALANT OR THREAD TAPE..The reddish color "thread dope" is enough sealant to fo the job..adding thread tape leaves a potential for leak..in other words..you didn't need to put thread tape.on these because they will probably leak in the future..BTW..M NOT BEING CRITICAL OR SMART ASSY OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT..Just spreading my particular knowledge from experience...

Today mine did the same thing. Done the test with the motor and my switch was bad. Not bad for a 10 year old one

thanks pal

Great video! What’s the part number on the switch?

JOB well Done

You make a good point. It’s great to have things covered under warranty, but there is a price point where the downtime and red tape just aren’t worth it. Hope they reimburse at least some of the cost.

did you apply power straight to the motor to make sure the contactactor was the problem?

I just tried to turn my air compressor on and it didn't react until I realized after 20 minutes "oh wait a minute... its already been filled with air since last month" lol

I have looked all over the web and can't seem to find put what wire goes were on the capacitors I hate to have to trash it just because I can't get the capacitors back on the motor.

I was just wondering : when you tried to turn it on before the repair, the red switch made a nice solid "click" sound when you rotated it off, but when turning it on, it just sort of seemed to "slide." The new one, I think, made the click sound both off AND on. What I am getting at is this : could it have been that that cheap red plastic switch had rounded out inside a little, so that it wasn't solidly gripping the little white post that it was supposed to turn? I have had that problem with that kind of switch before; the switch just loses its grip on the little post (which usually has one flat edge corresponding to a flat edge in the female hole in the red switch, thus making it grip and not just spin). I hope my question makes sense, and I would tell people to just look at that first - it takes 30 seconds, and if that's it, it's a cheap repair - just get a new red switch! Thanks.

They recommend not using Teflon tape because pieces can break off and damage your compressor

if i drilled out the air outlet in the diaphragm bowl to 10mm from 5mm would this affect the switch? The inside outlet in the bowl is half the size to outlet

Here I don't see any big repair there, but I understand..., it's not easy when something go wrong... If someone have and want to solve issues, have to be competent and very careful, before opening (pressure switch) or untighten something! because of electric and preasure-air-mechanical danger...

Did you ever investigate the bad switch taking it apart? What could have failed?

Good video,I have a air compressor fairly new hasn't been use very much at all,but now when it is suppose to shut off after reaching the certain pressure point it doesn't the pressure valve releases,does anyone know what the problem is.Its a craftsman 6 gallon round compressor,does anyone maybe know what the problem is,could it be the pressure switch?

My compressor starts working and builds pressure up to 150psi but sometimes during work it will not start and won't keep tank charged. Sometimes it turns on only for a few seconds then goes quiet. Sometimes I hears something that it wants to start like air going somewhere through the pipe for about 2 second and then quiets and stays like that. Fails to keep up pressure in tank when I use it. Pressure goes low as 50psi but compressor doesn't start. Then I had to open drain valve to release remaining air pressure in the tank. Disconnect it from AC power for few minutes and it starts working again build up to 150psi again. I don't hear any air leaks. What could be wrong?

I have the Cobalt 26 gallon oilless electric compressor. It seems like mine was doing something similar where it would pump up the pressure when at zero but while using tools if it needed a kick back on it would not. If I were to drain the tank completely the compressor will turn back on and run otherwise if you keep flipping the switch it just sounds like a car trying to start up. Any ideas is this just the same type of repair that you're doing by replacing the switch?

what pressure switch did you buy. the kobalt i'm working on has a switch part number CW219300AV

I have a strange request, could you pop off the cover from the capacitors and take a pic of the wiring? I have a very similar model, the capacitor went bad, we took it apart a couple years ago, and I have no clue how to rewire both caps.

Did you get reimbursed? Looked for follow-up video.

I have to the same, and replement the swith,

hi barry well dun

No no! You didn't forget to install the plug! You left it out in order to purge the new switch of any debris. Yeah.... that's the ticket! LOL

No Teflon tape

Describe all the parts of dental compressor in detail, practically..

Hey i have the same air compressor and have had the same problems. Only a guy I had come out to fix it said it was the electric motor capacitors. He took them off to have them tested and now he doesn't want to work on it and I have know idea the wiring on the capacitor. Could you remove the cover on the electric motor and upload a picture of the capacitor wiring. Plz don't get shocked

You have dogs ???? How come they haven't helped you in the shop/garage ?? On the open edge of the siding why not take a piece of aluminum L channel cut it to length and just pop rivet it on the tops of the sheeting only. Good luck !

I'm not an expert on compressors so excuse me for asking this. If you didn't need 175 psi why would you buy one w this capacity? Couldn't you of bought a smaller one and saved a couple hundred bucks? Rather than down grading it and wasting your money? I recently bought a mid size one w 90 psi capacity and quickly realized I need more psi to operate particular tools properly so I'll be needing to buy a bigger one soon only thing is the price jumps dramatically from what I paid for mine.

You went with a 155 psi switch instead of 175? That's a downgrade.

What's the part number please

I have the same air compressor. My switch failed after 1 1/2 yrs of very light use. Don't fall for that 3 yr. warrenty crap. I put in a warrenty claim and it was denied. The motor, pressure switch and compressor are considered normal wear items and only have a 1 yr warrenty. So basically the tank is the part covered for 3 yrs..Here is the response I received back from them. July 19, 2021 Client’s Claim #: 3805### Policy #: Insured: Campbell Hausfeld Claimant: Date of Loss/Received: July 14,2021 Our File #: 3805### Dear Mr. , ######## Thank you for your inquiry. Crawford and Company, on behalf of Campbell Hausfeld LLC, has investigated your filed claim regarding Kobalt Air Compressor, Model Number XC802000AJ (the “Product”). The Product’s warranty period is effective on the date of purchase of the Product from Campbell Hausfeld or an authorized Campbell Hausfeld reseller for a period of 3 years. Within the manual the motor is considered a “normal wear item and is not covered after the first year of ownership”. The dated sales you have stated is 2/22/2020 for the Product which starts the warranty coverage. Since you were unable to provide a valid proof of purchase with respect to the Product, the Product’s sales date of 2/22/2020 is considered the beginning of its warranty period. Based on the information from you, the Product incident is outside of the provided warranty period regarding the motor, leaving us unable to assist you with your claim. Sincerely, Bill Porterfield Casualty Adjuster Crawford & Company 1503 LBJ Freeway Suite 600 Dallas TX 75234 Phone#: 817-513-3275 Fax#: 770-723-8855 Email: William_porterfield@us.crawco.com