From our tech expert Brian K - the 1.9 vanagons are fuel injected and use the factory distributor sensor as part of the crank trigger, so you're not able to just replace the factory distributor.

Was the valve adjustment the only change, and was it done on a completely cold engine? They shouldn't have any effect on starting the engine unless wires were disconnected (you can pull a plug and check spark) or the valves are too tight which can cause hard starting.

@@DuneBuggyWarehouse yes the engine Had not been started the day the valves were adjusted, is it possible to time it Staticaly just to get into the ballpark?

@@harrisonphelps2877 Start with 7-8 degrees before top dead center - it should run unless there are other issues.

009 & Vac Advance Style Ignition Module Test: 1. Verify the module is receiving 12v source - POS+ multimeter lead on POS+ coil terminal and red wire running to module, and NEG- multimeter lead on a ground for the car (engine block, alternator stand, etc.) 2. If you confirm correct voltage at POS+ wire leading to unit, you can put a test light from the POS+ lead and the NEG- lead to the coil and turn the engine over - it should flash while engine turns. This will confirm the module works. 3. If #2 does not work check all wires to/from the module, coil, distributor wire and plug wires. Check ohm rating across coil terminal (3-3.7 ohms is acceptable). If you're not sure give Pertronix a call at 909-599-5955 they do have excellent technical support.

This is not uncommon. Sometimes the cap can be just a little off center and the rotor can drag against the contacts inside the cap. You can try resetting the cap but they do end up centering themselves on the distributor once the car has started.

We typically recommend .030" plug gap for electronic ignitions.

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Corrosion and/or contact from the cap are usually what kill the rotor. The spark creates ozone which over time is corrosive to the metal contacts.

I find it's easier to test in the car with a test light: 009 & Vac Advance Style Ignition Module Test: 1. Verify the module is receiving 12v source - POS+ multimeter lead on POS+ coil terminal and red wire running to module, and NEG- multimeter lead on a ground for the car (engine block, alternator stand, etc.) 2. If you confirm correct voltage at POS+ wire leading to unit, you can put a test light from the POS+ lead and the NEG- lead to the coil and turn the engine over - it should flash while engine turns. This will confirm the module works. 3. If #2 does not work check all wires to/from the module, coil, distributor wire and plug wires. Check ohm rating across coil terminal (3-3.7 ohms is acceptable).

also the amps makes a lot of difference in how long the module will last ,,,under 4 amps is mostly recommended ,,,,,as to keep the module running cooler ,,,,,just saying , thanks

This was a Kuhltek electronic ignition. They are now a small green module instead of metal like in this video.

Is it on an aircooled VW? I don't recognize that coil number. Typical coil measures 3.0-3.9 ohms across terminals for our application.

Measure the resistance across terminals on your coil - it should be about 3 Ohms to use with (nearly all) electronic ignitions.

If I get a ballast resistor with electronic distributor I should be able to keep the key on longer than 30 seconds without burning the actual coil up right?

Usually everything else is ok.

@@DuneBuggyWarehouse thank so much. I had a mechanic looking man he said everything's okay as well

Some of the old Mallory distributors have condensers hidden inside with the rotor. Parts are generally available. Supposedly these are closer to the 010 advance curve. The 009 will have the thinner, taller cap like the distributors in this video.

@@DuneBuggyWarehouse . Ty. I have the short cap. The tall cap setup was bought by my friend in error. If they are interchangable I would like to buy it. Is it interchangable?

@@georgerussinello6820 They are not interchangeable, you have to use the Mallory-specific shorter caps. I'd have to point you to our friends at Aircooled.net for those parts.

@@DuneBuggyWarehouse . I'm sorry for the confusion. I meant are the complete distributors interchangable. He wants to go electronic. The dist with points in there now is warn the points don't sit tight in dist. If I could get a complete kit , I'd go that way. Plug n play.

@@georgerussinello6820 Absolutely you can use a 009-style instead of your old Scat/Mallory-style. Any of our 009 distributors - either points or electronic - would work in place.

Electronic ignitions will improve your spark and accuracy of the timing, reduces any chance for points bounce and reduces any wear on the distributor shaft from opening points. You won't see a performance increase but may see a slight fuel mileage improvement. They are a near zero maintenance upgrade versus points. You will still need to set your timing - about 8 degrees BTDC static, and 28-30 degrees BTDC for full advance at ~3000 rpm.

@@DuneBuggyWarehouse can you explain this more clearly to someone that doesnt know anything about cars?

@@CK-bs8gs What were you looking to learn about? Specifically electronic ignitions, or ignition systems in cars?

@@DuneBuggyWarehouse I've got an electric ignition installed. The vehicle seems to be idling very rough and was wondering how you go about timing it since it is not the original points

​@@CK-bs8gs You can set the timing close to 8 degrees before top dead center, but I would suggest borrowing or renting a timing light from your local auto parts store to dial in the final 28 degrees at 3000 rpm. Make sure you have the correct firing order lined up (1-4-3-2) with the #1 cylinder being passenger side near the bell housing.

When you step on the gas the vacuum falls off initially and then builds back up. It prevents spark knock.

The basics: Most electronic ignitions do not fire under ~10v so make sure your battery is charged up. [Before anything else check polarity on your coil: Make sure pos+ is actually positive by checking for voltage to a ground.] Add a small ground jumper between Coil neg- and a ground point (firewall bolt, trans strap, etc). Check your voltage from Coil pos+ to a ground (11.5 to 16 volts is ok), then check your resistance from Coil pos+ to same ground (3.0 to 4.5 ohms is ok). If any of these are out of spec, you have poor connections and/or a coil going bad. If the key is left on while the engine is not running, the coil can overheat and burn the units up just like points. If the wires to the coil were mixed up and polarity was reversed, the units generally fry immediately. If you have a pertronix unit, they have specific procedures to further test the unit I can email to you.

Red wire goes on +Side of coil, Black wire goes on -Side of coil. Verify with a voltmeter/multimeter which side of your coil is actually positive and negative before connecting. Electronic ignitions will fry almost immediately if wired up to power backwards, or if ignition switch is left on without running the engine for more than about 30 seconds.

All 009 advance is done with either centrifugal or vacuum advancing.

Red is POS 12v+ coil side, black is NEG 12v- coil side. Check which terminals are +/- on your coil before installing! 99% of the issues are people mis-wiring/not verifying coil terminals before installation.

We'll have to do a Points Ignition 101 video to cover this. Thanks for your input!