This 100%! Most of the best straight-level shots happen either right at show center or very close to it!

I agree! I typically like either a 14mm or a 15-35mm lens for such a thing! I don't believe I mentioned that in this video because not all air shows have static display aircraft so it's not 100% something you should bring along unless you know there's going to be displays.

I'm sure that superzoom will be totally fine! the longer reach is more important in quite a few air shows I've been to, so it will be worth taking it! Glad you had fun and enjoy your next one!

Hell yeah! A long time ago I had a camera that could only shoot 3 frames in a second and I feel even when it did that it wasn't as good as single shot so I got real good at trying to time everything haha I agree nailing that single shot is so rewarding!

How is it focusing manually with the film camera

@@kryptone3032 Really easy, especially at airshows as almost all subjects are relatively far away. All my lenses I have that are designed for manual-only focus have a hard stop at infinity focus. So it will not turn further than that. And infinity tends to be the right setting. So I turn the focus ring as far as it goes and leave it there.

Absolutely! Happy to help!

Looking forward to it!

Thank you for watching!

Happy to help! Hope you get some amazing stuff out there!

Thank you! Hope you have a successful time out there!

I'll be there too! Super excited for it!

My focus settings? I use single point focus, horizontal zone focus, and Animal AF tracking! The Animal seems to be more accurate than the Vehicle tracking on the Canon cameras, so that's what I use the most. The point focus is the best for quickly getting the focus motors to shift in the right spot to see the aircraft, and the Horizontal Zone is if I have multiple aircraft in the shot and I don't know which to prioritize focus on!

I believe so! 24x optical zoom sounds like that camcorders focal length can go in without sacrificing a lot of the resolution, so you'll be certainly close to the action! the only downside I see is that if it's a motorized zoom it will move slowly which could mean fast moving jets that go from far to close might be a struggle to keep up with. But hey that could be a fun practice challenge in itself right? Predicting when to zoom and when not to! Good luck comment here to let me know how it goes!

I mean the flat blue tends to be annoying too, snap enough of that and the white balance seems to go off into some magenta range its not great either. The real ideal is when the clouds are scattered! One air show I regularly go to typically has overcast grey in the sky and for that I shoot at a higher shutter speed (like 1/3200) to help add more contrast to the aircraft but yeah it's still a struggle for me too when the sky is all grey.

I believe I said this in the video, but I use animal eye focus and full Manual mode. You can use TV if you want to ensure the shutter speed stays fast to keep the airline from getting motion blur.

you mean when you have to bump the ISO up to compensate for the faster shutter? not really no. Keep in mind when you are panning and the jets are moving quickly there is a good chance parts of your image can get soft especially when moving the camera around quickly. Having a 2000+ shutter speed locks anything that happens into place even if your reaction time meant moving the camera rapidly by. 800 ISO these days the camera will handle that just fine and I generally don't travel higher than 1600 in most cases unless it's a Sunset show. Also this is a starting spot to get you in a good place to take shots at an Air Show. If you are concerned about noise, you can drop the ISO down and decrease the shutter speed as you'd prefer, but keep in mind you might find some of the images can get softer based on how fast the jet is moving in relation to how fast you are and thus have less keepers.

@@TommyDanger5 oh ok thank you very much

a long lens! seriously any are good as long as you are using a lens thats 300mm or higher! It really depends on your budget but I would recommend a telephoto zoom lens that can go up to 300, 400, 500, or even 600!

800 isn't high really in modern cameras these days, and it's a starting point. Sometimes it's 500, sometimes its 1600. If you'd prefer to do auto ISO you can - the benefit to that is you will get the lowest possible ISO setting when it works, but the disadvantage is it could spike high if you don't have your ISO max range restricted to a lower value. Honestly I rarely use anything auto as I'd rather trust my methods than rely on the camera to guess for me. The goal is to help expose the shadows a little more underneath the aircraft, so yeah if you want do the thing, but I recommend find an ISO value you are happy with and leave it at that.

Thanks thats a great Idea! I took a break since this channel wasn't really doing anything, but I want to get back on it so maybe that'll be my first one! Also, if you updated the firmware to 2.0, there's been talk of some models losing accurate focus tracking. I thought they fixed it right now, but google how to roll back firmware and put 1.9 on as a possible solution. Also, the Sigma and Tamron lenses sometimes need a firmware upgrade themselves to work with the Canon R5. There's a "hockey puck" upgrade module that you put the Sigma lens onto and update the firmware to the latest, so if you haven't done that then that could be a possible solution as well.

@@TommyDanger5 Thanks for the reply man! Can't wait for the video!! I'm bit afraid to roll back the firmware, never did this before, Signa haven't released any firmware update since 2020... I wrote to Canon, they said it could happen after you upgrading to the latest firmware, Buy RF lens, and the closed the topic!! Sigma said, Yes, the pictures look blurry, but no one complains about it.. I don't know what to do...

@@anthonyhershko It's not too difficult to do, but if you are nervous about it you can first try to just factory reset your R5. It'll remove all your custom functions and what-not so you'll have to annoyingly put them all back in, but in past firmware updates I've done this whenever my focus was off and it seemed to correct it. Other people have said it doesn't work, but from personal experience it worked at least twice for me so its worth a shot.

​@@TommyDanger5 Already did a factory reset, still the same...

How blurry are the images? There is micro focus correction in camera you can do.

Lightroom's denoise with a value level of 25-30!

on a side note, if your camera is really noisy just over 800 iso, then it must not be a very new sensor I'm assuming? the newer the camera the easier it handles the noise these days and looks completely fine, but if you cannot upgrade your camera you can use Topaz denoise with the settings REALLY low or the Lightroom Denoise if you have that program

​@TommyDanger5 I have a 77D few years old so that may be the case. I just updated Lightroom and now have the desnoise feature. It is absolutely effective. Thank you for taking the time, I will be traveling to attend the Battlecreek airshow this weekend and will definitely use your suggestions.

I sure was! I'll be there again this year too!

@@TommyDanger5 i may have talked to you a few times. I was there as well. I hope to be there again this year.

I have in another video on my channel, but the basics are I switch between point focus and horizontal zone focus. And my back button focus is set to "Animal AF" instead of "Vehicle AF" because for my camera it just seems to work more accurately. I think I'll make a short video on this too thanks for the idea!

@@TommyDanger5 Thank you! What do you mean by horizontal zone focus? I think a specific video about that would be helpful.

@@marcioslsouza I'm in the process of filming/editing a focus mode short video now! I'll post it as soon as I can to help explain it!

@@TommyDanger5 I'm going to Warbirds Downunder at Temora Aviation Museum Australia. R5, EF 100-400MkII, RF24-105. Interesting that you recommend Animal AF, I was thinking 'no subject' for focus and maybe going back to Front Button Focus AF and Stabilizer Mode on the lens to 3 as the IBIS should handle panning and vertical movement. I looked for a short video on your settings but it doesn't appear to be available. I like your tips for aircraft as I usually shoot birds. Cheers mate, Australia

@@michaelvankempen4505 yeah sorry I haven't made a video in months making these videos were quite a lot of specific timing to be able to film them in a room like I had and I haven't had the chance to do that anymore in quite some time. Might just run out to the woods and do it and see if I can't get some more content up here including that video about settings. The subject detect could work, but after trying vehicle with too many issues I one time forgot to take it off of Animal Eye AF and it worked like a charm so I found it to be more accurate than most other eye AF modes.

Oh wow you are right!! What the heck I never saw it before like that. Maybe because I purposefully had the focus on the table at the moment, so the 4K bump is putting artifacts on anything not in focus? I dunno but that is unfortunate as I cannot change it myself. Thanks for pointing that out!

I mean you can, but this isn't the setup I have, so I can't show you what I dont have.

Oh also if you listen it says what focal lengths are important, what fps your camera should have, and what speeds your memory cards should be capable of. This can all be done at a lower price point. That was kind of the point of the video and you missed it because you looked at what I have on the table as examples of what I have.