I'm glad you found the information helpful! I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment!

@@wickedartstudio Great videos. Thank you.

Hopefully these videos will alleviate some of your confusion. I gave you my recommendation for using only the 4011 reducer in this video (if you're using Createx products). In part 2 we'll dig into how the 5% to 30% recommended ratios actually perform. I'll share how I mix my paint and what reduction ratio I use for about 90 percent of what I do.

@@wickedartstudio I was using 4012, but have put in an order for 4011. I even emailed createx about the difference and they said the 4011 is the newer alternative (doesn't really tell me much!) Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and I will be watching.

@@jf6720 Thank you for the support my friend!

I feel that

Thank you! I appreciate the kind words and support!

Thank you for watching and taking the time to leave a comment Carolyn!

Awesome! I'm glad you found the video helpful! Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment!

Hey Josh! Like I said, 4012 was very hit and miss for me. It worked great when it worked, but when it didn't it was extremely frustrating on my end too! I haven't tried the 4013 yet, but the 4011 reducer has always worked with absolutely no issues. I'd stick with the 4011!

Correct. Some colors are thicker than others (which is true across the board - Auto Air Colors, Wicked Colors, Wicked Detail and the Illustration line). I'm not a chemist, but I believe it has to do with the different pigments used to create the actual colors. I suspect some are just larger particles than others which causes greater viscosity. In part 2 I'll actually spray most of the manufacturer recommended percentage ratios from 5% to 30% and beyond. We'll take a close look at those results. I'll also share how I mix my paint and the reduction ratio I use for about 90 percent of what I do. Hopefully, that information will help to simplify things for everyone!

Awesome! Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment!

Awesome! Thank you!

PS... is it true the W100 is the same as 4011? Thanks.

Thanks Jimbo!

Yes. It is true the W100 reducer is the same as 4011. There might be some minor chemistry changes between the two (especially if the 4011 is new), but nothing that will cause any issues. I still have five and a half 32 oz. bottles of W100 that I use almost every day. W100 and/or 4011 do not go bad in my experience.

@@wickedartstudio Thanks very much my good man!

Thank you my friend!

Either way, I only use 4011 Reducer mixed with my paint. 4012 has been discontinued. What I have left is only used for cleaning purposes.

In my opinion It does once you get it figured out. I used urethane for about 15 years before I started playing with Createx when Auto Air was first introduced. I struggled with it a lot... for a longer period of time than I should have. Part of the issue I think was Auto Air Colors was new and their formulations weren't as refined as they are now. The other part of the issue was me. Between marketing, forums and just talking to other painters about the products, it seemed everyone was trying to get Createx to spray and act like the urethane we all knew and loved. I fell into that trap too. I didn't want to change the way I worked because what I was doing worked so well for years with urethane. I tried to use the water-based paint the same way I used urethane until I finally figured out that approach didn't work. They are two completely different animals. The newer formulations that we have today perform closer to a urethane in my opinion, but I'm not sure the two products will ever be as close as a lot of us would like.

Thanks Freddie! This video is older, but the information still applies. I'm glad it helped you out and happy to have you as a subscriber!

Hey Richard! I'm glad my advice was helpful and I have no doubt the 4011 is treating you well! I appreciate your continued support my friend!

Glad I'm not alone... lol. I appreciate the kind words Jayden!

I agree. Etac is very good! There's a number of really good airbrush paints available. There's also a number of paints available that are not so good in my experience. I use Createx because it works the best for what I do on a daily basis. That doesn't necessarily mean it will work for everyone. I encourage people to try different brands and find what works the best for them.

Correct, in my opinion anyway. I've always considered a 0.35mm needle and nozzle set as a mid-range airbrush. That size is good for just about anything, including very fine detail in the hands of an experienced artist. It is a very versatile airbrush. Larger needle/nozzle sizes (0.5mm to 0.7mm) are good for covering larger areas quickly, but they are also capable of impressive detail. A needle/nozzle set in the range of 0.18mm to 0.23mm has always been considered more of a detail-oriented brush in my view. There are some airbrushes out there with a needle and nozzle smaller than 0.18mm. I own a Harder & Steenbeck Infinity with a 0.15mm needle/nozzle as one example. Thank you for watching and taking the time to leave a comment!

Thank you!

Hey Rod. Thanks for the kind words and the support my friend! I would suggest the Illustration line for a beginner. The Illustration line is better suited for the airbrush in my opinion. Some of the Illustration colors are thin enough to spray without reduction (depending on the needle/nozzle size of the brush you're using) and others require little reduction (you'll notice some colors have more viscosity than others). Overall, the learning curve using the Illustration line should be minimal. Pearlescent colors are not offered in the Illustration line though. You can get those in the Wicked or Auto Air lines (or mix them yourself with Illustration transparent base and dry pearl). Hope that helps!

@@wickedartstudio Thanks for taking time out of your day to respond, it is greatly appreciated and it helps a bunch! Do you have a website or link that might benefit your channel that I can buy them through? Thanks again, hope you and yours are safe 😀👍

@@kill3rkitt3ns I do have a link that I will receive a small commission from if you choose to make a purchase. You can find a full set here amzn.to/30XOEmN Thank you so much for the support my friend!

I know for a fact the paint formulations have changed over the years. So, I wouldn't be surprised if the reducer formulations have gone through changes as well. I'm no chemist, but I've more or less attributed my 4012 failures to a couple of things (or a combination of them): 1). I tend to buy reducer in large quantities just to be sure I don't run out in the middle of a job. If I'm doing a lot of large work with a mini gun or full size gun, the reducer gets used relatively quickly. The majority of my work is all airbrush though which uses reducer at a much slower rate. Sometimes a bottle of reducer will sit on my shelf for a long period of time before it gets used as a result. When I was experiencing issues with 4012 and trying to figure out what was going on, I went and bought a brand new 2 oz. bottle of the same reducer at a local jobber and had no issues. My initial thought was perhaps there's a shelf life, but it also could've been a new formulation. I really don't know. 2). I tend to over reduce my paint. I've tried adding small quantities of 4012 to my paint at a time, stirring well before adding additional reducer as opposed to adding all of the reducer at once and shocking the paint. Sometimes that strategy worked and sometimes it didn't - I still wound up with a congealed mixture that wasn't usable in a lot of those instances. In the end, I gave up on 4012. Using 4011 simplifies things and solved the issues I was having with 4012.

😂 I'm glad I'm not the only one confused by that advice!

Thank you!

I have very little experience painting RC bodies. Having said that, all of the Createx products I've tried on them have adhered just fine. There's no reason why candy2o wouldn't adhere the same as the Wicked does. As far as using candy2o with the other paint brands you mentioned goes, I'd try it on a practice body before you use the combination on a client's body.

W100 was an earlier reducer that was phased out around 2010 I think (I could have the year wrong on that). I suspect you purchased a kit that had been on the shelf for a long time. The paint is likely fine. I have bottles that are far older than that and they still spray great. I would recommend getting a bottle of 4011 reducer though. Also, when you mix your paint allow it to sit for about 10 minutes before you spray it. The extra time allows the paint and reducer to really marry into each other which should help resolve the grainy texture you're experiencing.

Hey Carolyn! I don't think I've mentioned any Golden products in any of my videos because I don't use them. I've actually never tried that particular brand of paint although I hear and read great things about their paint quite often. For sealing ground metal I will normally use Createx UVLS Gloss Clear. On occasion I will opt to seal the surface with a catalyzed urethane clear if I really want to protect the surface or stop a candy bleed before I begin airbrushing artwork over the background created on the panel, but that is rare and using UVLS makes the process go a lot faster. I also normally recommend sticking with one product line from start to finish. Sometimes different brands don't get along all that well chemically and some strange things can happen. Sometimes the reaction creates a cool effect and sometimes it ruins your work. Having said that, mixing different products can be done successfully more often than not based on my own experience. If you choose to do so I would strongly recommend trying it out on a test panel before you use it on your actual project just to be sure.

Thanks for the great advice. I get some candy’s next week as well as the URL’s clear and excited to try it as my metal sealer prior to painting.

@@skysettermobiles You are welcome! If you have further questions please don't hesitate to ask!

Agreed.

Hey Andrew! You can find the second part to this video here kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iK5yibtk2bK3qXU.html You can find another video I created that deals with the same subject here kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ldmXZ5uqrcyVfZ8.html I very, very rarely add any additives to my paint that aren't created by the manufacturer for the specific brand of paint I'm using. In my case, I use Createx Colors (Wicked and Illustration) pretty much exclusively. Way back when their automotive line was first introduced, there were a lot of us mixing up our own cocktailed reducers trying to achieve better performance. I was one of those artists too; however, the technology has improved by a huge margin since then and it's no longer necessary. The off the shelf products work incredibly well these days. Adding different additives into your paint, especially anything not designed and tested by the manufacturer can actually create adhesion issues. Over reducing paint can also cause adhesion issues because the binder is being stretched too thin. I'm not saying the rules can never be broken, but it's good advice to learn the rules before you attempt to work around or break them. My best advice is to use a paint manufactured specifically for airbrush use as opposed to hairy brushes. Adhesion issues are generally caused by poor preparation of the surface being painted rather than the paint in and of itself based on my own experience. There are two types of adhesion we use, mechanical and chemical. We generally start with mechanical adhesion, meaning the surface has been cleaned, scratched with a Scoth-Brite pad or sandpaper and then cleaned again before painting begins. The scratches formed in the sanding process provides a mechanical "tooth" for the paint to bite and adhere to. Chemical adhesion comes into play after that, meaning the paint binds to the layers below it through a chemical process. I discuss all of this in another video that was primarily aimed at paint lifting when masking techniques are used, but the same information applies without masking techniques as well. You can find the video here kzfaq.info/get/bejne/adpza6afr8ysYZ8.html if you're not familiar with what I'm talking about. More often than not, poor prep work is the problem when adhesion issues occur. Frustration is part of learning sometimes and we've all been there, me included. Again, using an airbrush specific paint may be a little more expensive, but it will lessen the learning curve if you concentrate on learning with what you plan to use. You also use very little paint when airbrushing, especially when practicing, provided you're mixing very small quantities at a time. Your paint should last you a long time if you're not constantly painting large artworks. I appreciate the kind words my friend! Knowing others are learning from my videos is what keeps me motivated to continue!

Createx paint is an acrylic polyurethane, which may be slightly different in composition compared to the Apple Barrel paint you are using. I would think the Createx reducer would work fine with the Apple Barrel paint, but I would suggest experimenting with it on something other than your project first just to be sure.

Hey Daniel! Their clear coat is very good for a water-based paint. Thinning depends on whether you're spraying it with a spray gun or airbrush. I'm normally around 10 to 20 percent for a spray gun and 30 to 40 percent for airbrush use.

@@wickedartstudio Hi! Thanks for your answer. Best airbrush videos on the tube!

@@jacobsson_daniel Thank you so much!

I've personally never tried using other thinner brands with Createx products. This can likely be done without creating issues, but I would highly recommend testing on something other than your artwork first to be sure.

Hi Larry! I can't say for sure because I've never used Lure Works paint. Using 4011 Reducer will probably be fine, but I would recommend experimenting with it on something other than your project first to be sure.

It does. As you mentioned, the HP-BCS has a slightly larger needle and nozzle set compared to a lot of the gravity feed airbrushes. A higher air pressure setting is also common for artists using a siphon feed airbrush, although that's not a requirement. With a slightly larger needle/nozzle and a higher working air pressure setting, you can get away with less reduction and get good results. The guidelines are the same though. Find the reduction ratio that atomizes paint the best at the air pressure setting you intend to use with the airbrush you intend to use.

Any airbrush supplier that carries the airbrush you have will likely have parts available too.

It would probably work fine, but I've never tried it personally. I'd suggest testing it on something other than your project first to be sure.

lol! Right?

I can't help you with that.

Good to know I'm not the only one... lol! Thanks Charlie!

I've actually showed how I mix my paint in multiple videos. I go over it again in part two of this video. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iK5yibtk2bK3qXU.html