It's been 40 years since I've airbrushed. Your practice techniques brought back memories of how I use to warm up. Great video.

I just ordered an airbrush to paint gaming miniatures, this was super useful practices to start with as I learn the basics of setting base layers on models.

I am about to buy an air brush, but before I do I wanted some info. Thanks so much for sharing!!!! I will now embark on my new learning curve

Thank you soooo much! I will learn how to airbrush thanks to your fantastic videos! I really appreciate it, and hopefully one day I will be able to inspire others as you do.

Dagger stroke tutorial was wicked! Thanks Dan!

Just got my airbrush for Christmas (2022) and am really looking forward to using it! Thanks for the tips!

Had to return for a refresher! Thanks again for everything you do! 😃

Pro tip, never leave finished pieces behind your workspace.

thanks for sharing your knowledge and all your great videos, they have been super helpful stepping into airbrushing

Thanks! I love your videos

Great teaching skills, sir. No pretense, no lofty attitude and you explain techniques in a way even I can grasp...yes, even this old man. Clear and concise instruction which will help me move past the training wheels. Thanks for your help, Dan. Regards, Cork

Thanks for sharing your knowledge bud!! I really appreciate it.

This is brilliant. Thanks for the clear help.

So useful. Really appreciate the way you provided the details in a way that was easy to understand. Great video.

I’m bout to start airbrushing journey thanks for this video and tips subscribing !!

Doubles thumbs up. Thank you!

Thanks this was helpful!

Thanks for the tutorial and tips! I am about to start my journey in airbrushing and you are a good teacher. I have subbed and will be watching. 😀

Wow! Ty

Excellent video 💯Thanks

I've only just discovered you, thanks so much for sharing your knowledge with us. I look forward to progressing through your videos and ultimately learn how to master an airbrush

Thank you that sphere looked great and it was so simple .

Great explanations!

Another great one I just have to gkeep getting the practice in

Thank you very much ❤

great for me to learn I dont think you are a famous air brusher but you briallent teacher thankyou

excellent vidéo Dan !

Got to get home and start practice😊

Thank you! :)

Hi Dan, I just found your channel yesterday. I'm over in the UK and I'm loving your videos - you are teaching with sincerity and not arrogance, which is brilliant. I'm no artist at all, and I've just started my airbrush journey, so I'm happy I found your channel.

Great tutorial! Getting ready to start again. It’s been a number of years. Looking to see where I’ll go with it. Retired now so have a lot more time. Anyway Great video. Thank you

Thanks

Good stuff thank you

Add reducer first is what I learned. It so the paint mixes better with the reducer. Adding paint will let the paint stick to the side of the cup. I still do the practice drill. I have been airbrushing just as long as you.

New Subscriber! Great info!

I don't know if you ever used them, but i would recommend trying acrylic inks. They have extremely vibrant colors, great coverage and need no reducer unless you want to reduce the opacity of the ink. That said, great video, great warm up routine!

Hi Dan, good video, I would like to see a video on the thought process in shading and highlighting,thank-you

Great

You give me some nice ideas to go on practice lidel by lidel thanks for that ❤

When I saw you mix in your cup, I knew you were the guy for me

Correct - Warm ups are VERY important - every artist and athelete from musicians, dancers to baseball and football (you name it) do it before a live performance and remember YOUR live performance is on the canvas you working with

Thx for the video. To clarify, when you make dagger stokes, you get the thinner part of the dagger by moving the gun closer to the surface, or by reducing the air flow? or by a combinatino of both?

Paint on, paint off, Blood in, blood out😂. Thanks man.

I’ve learned to paint cars, but never done airbrushing. I just bought one from a cheap website, and it didn’t work even after reducing the paint it wouldn’t spray. I bought a more expensive one from harbor freight, and it sprayed better than the other one. I was really trying to get an Iwata but the prices deterred me from that 😅. Thanks for the tips I found the airbrush rather harder than a car paint gun, but it may all be due to the airbrush gun I have being cheaper.

Great video again. I’m having a problem that when I put a new needle in it’s dragging really bad on the little brass screw in the gun so when I pull the trigger back the needle is staying back

Dan could you do a video on what airbrush ti buy. One much like the one you did on compressors. Thanks t plaisted

I personally like working with the 4012.

great videos. Thanks. I have a question. Is it possible to paint oil paintings with an airbrush where the main medium is linseed oil? The pigment should be very transparent to have the right viscosity. What parameters should the airbrush and compressor have for this type of work? thanks a lot

Nice instruction. Can I use my shop air shop compressor for a small gun like this? Thanks

Thanks for the "tutatorial."

Hi Dan; where can I get the water separator like the one you use on your airbrush? Thanks.

Do I need to thin chroma polyurethane airbrush paint? If what should I use. If it’s a matter of what I am painting fishing lure

Can I use nail polish remover as a reducer? I'm also considering using dish soapy water?

Hi Dan. I bought my first airbrush (Iwata NEO) and I'm having issues with splattering. It's fine, but its there and I can't seem to get it to go away. I'm using the Tooty compressor from Spraygunner running around 15 psi. Any feedback would be appreciated.

How do you get such tiny and crisp lines without any overspray? Are you having to constantly adjust your psi or you keep it at a constant 30?

What other namebrand paints do you think is good for beginners. And I will be painting guns other kinds of hardware around the home on paper on canvas, etc..

I am from Québec,so am pack franchement Maubert you havé à tranlator?

Question: I build plastic model airplanes. I need to paint the panel lines of the plane. I can’t seem to follow the straight panel lines. My pattern comes out wavy. Any suggestions ? Thanks.

My 9 year old wants to get into canvas airbrushing. Do I need a booth or PPE? We have a little nook where we dont mind if she makes a mess.

Good morning brother Dan, I noticed you said in between your tutorial exercises. You can do little projects to see how far you’re coming along. OK my question is I have a Canon 98 pound 18 by 24 drawing pad. I was told 140 pound drawing pad is better. The 98 pound 18 by 24 drawing pad is what I’m doing my exercise tutorials on dots, daggers and lines ect. OK this is the question what weight drawing pad do I need to be using in order to do the clearcoat and where do I get the clearcoat from to make the finish shine or glossy!!!🎣🎣🎣

aways get some overspray next to line, will this be the case for airbrushes?

I'm trying to learn how to defeat tip dry on the needle of the air brush. I've tried everything I could look up! Still platters and or just no paint flow. Even "ready to spray" primers just have not worked. Anyone have a tip?

will you bin that canvas or clean it up?

I know this is sort of an off comment but I’ve been searching out content that is not political. I’ve always been an artist and want to spend my attention on something wholesome. This is one of the first videos I’ve found with this new goal in mind. Thank you. Can’t wait to get a brush. Should speed up my crafting and give me a new medium to practice.

What surface are you spraying on

What’s the reason for keeping air flowing all the time when airbrushing

You mentioned a few times the needle or line width size as 3.5 mm...Do you mean .35mm?

Hey was that just plain canvis or preped

Do you remember what air compressor you were using at the time for this video?

Good tutorial but wounder how the finished work piece is going behind the job your doing.

Sorry am a newbie, what is a reducer?

Does createx sponsor you?

Hey Dan it’s Marc again hey I just looked and I texted you I was missing my rubber O ring on my Iwata eclipse and damn I looked on my Iwata hi line HP CH AND THAT WAS MISSING THE O RING ALSO BEHIND THE HEAD CAP !! What the hell I spent $300 on that and they ripped me off for the O rings on both my Iwata guns!! I’ve been running them with no O rings behind the head cap !!

Dude…. The overspray is sooooooo close to your nice stuff right behind you.

need a bit more detail on the gun itself i.e. tbe nozes and needles

Just be wary of brand fanboi-isms. Iwata's are Illustrator brushes mostly and are designed and used over seas as such with Inks and water based media. The .3 or .35 like the eclipse are good for acrylics but nothing much thicker like enamels, which at .3 almost need to be way over thinned to push through. Iwata brushes popularity and small needles were why Testors enamels got such a bad rep, that and people not knowing how to properly thin enamels. Iwatas weren't designed for thicker Enamels and luckily I have amassed a large stash of formerly tossed Iwata Airbrushes because people thought they were ruined by the enamels being left in them. I still find gunked up ones for 5 bux at goodwill or thrift stores that are basically brand new. Basically you decide what you are going to work with and get an appropriate Airbrush for said needs. .5 needle units are for thicker media and can still get fine details but are best for large area painting. .1 to .18 are for inks mainly, washes and water colors. .2 to .35 works will all media up to Acrylics and Lacquers and thinner Oils (Not Thick oils or enamels), though inks can be used they will require PSI adjusting and in this mode mostly broad coverage use. .5 for Enamels and Oils. This isn't Holy scripture just a general guideline, you can use your brush for many medias out there but will have to play with mixing ratios and PSI just note you can thin only so far before pigment loss and paint types not behaving correctly. In no way is Iwata better or worse than Badger, Paasche and other mid range brand equivalents, all are quality tools and some simply have a better value per dollar in their packages than others. Iwata is like Apple, you pay a lot more for the branding for what's included. You can't go wrong with having an Eclipse lying about, though my Patriot 105 with all 3 needle sets is my main workhorse and the H&S Infinity I have for the small detail work as I mainly paint MOdel Cars/Planes and wargame mini's, the Eclipse is just too large in most cases other than coating and shading.

Why my compressor goes on and off during the paint and it wont come back on, is that normal or what I’m doing wrong

Thanks for showing how to start. But you scare me. you have beautiful artwork right behind where you are spraying.

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Right from the beginning I don't want to finish this video. The first thing you should add if you're going to mix in the cup is reducer. I mean it's literally basic physics😢

hahahaah tutta la vernice sui dipinti dietro hahahaha poco professionale XD

No mask needed?

This guy is createx's puppet. To get his commission 'buy the reducer dont make it" distilled water is perfect reducer, research for yourself dont trust him

I see you’re doing a 1 to 1 reducer to paint. But you’re painting on canvas. I make wood fishing lures. I’ve noticed that 1 to 1 is WAY to thin. It seems I can’t add more than about 10% reducer to 90% paint. What are your thoughts on this? Also when I add pearlescent mixture to colored paints my gun starts off fine and then begins To sputter when it sprays. “Sputter” is the only way I can explain it. It’s not longer a nice even spray it sputters even when holding it fully down. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. Thanks for the videos

Yknow I've looked at the 4011 thinner and I'm not sure the numerous on the cleaner and they're both exactly the same as far as what they're made of , don't know if they have any ingredients not listed but what they do list are the same even the same ratio of the listed ingredients...they are also differently priced.....what gives? I just buy whatever of the two is cheaper , whether it's reducer or clnr.