Thank you - most kind. They can ov=ccasionally do things wrong - like that blasted IFF aerial in one wing, but otherwise they have done really well with this one.

ooooh I'd like that....

Thanks mate, the kind of support I get from people like you makes it worthwhile! More soon...! Cheers, Gary

It's great that so many alternate bits are added to reduce costs for them down the line. I wanted the Vulcan I am building to have the fin RWR - the new kit doesn't show it but, lo and behold, on the sprue is the fin RWR as well as the curved one shown!

Must watch that - might explain why they put the IFF aerial in such an odd place in the build!!!

still you did a great job of the build

From what I've read, and I'm entirely happy to be corrected, but RAF High Speed Silver was essentially a mix of aluminium paint and some sealant or other. It tended to wear badly and ended up looking grey-ish. But it would indeed appear different to bare aluminium, even partially oxidised and not polished. Vallejo Metal Colour does three or four different aluminiums (aluminia?) too, depending on the alloy, I think others do likewise.

@@garys_stuff I suppose there is always license with any finish . however a number of modellers are assuming it was a natural metal finish and being part wood it certainly wasn't that . of course once you look at weathering ; you are into a different ball game .

That's an interesting point. The top tips sheet that comes with the new Spitfire starter still includes advice to wash the kit. I know that I used not to bother, but then I was doing a Fulmar (Special Hobby) and I got a lot of lift of the primer when I was doing some masking. I started washing kits again and I've not seen it since. Now, I'm not saying there is a definite link, it could be coincidence, could be that SH kits were more prone to it, could have been the primer, but I do wash kits now. Mainly on the big parts, as the small ones can come off the sprue during washing! I also put down a coat of primer at the start. But I'd like to hear any other opinions and experiences too!

@@garys_stuff Interesting. I have yet to build a Special Hobby kit, but will be watching for this issue if I do. In any event, I really enjoy your projects and video techniques.

Thanks for the suggestion - I'll give that a go! I need some IPA as a solvent for some gold paint I've got.

I have family in Alberta, so it was a pleasure to do this. And the scheme looks cool!

@@garys_stuff it does! I’m on southern Ontario, a long way from Alberta!

The instructions say to add 17g to the nose - right in the front of the nose section. I use either lead shot which is crushed down a bit then held in place with PVA glue, or I have just got some 5g weights that are used for motorbike wheel balancing - they also have an adhesive backing so are easy to fit.

Take a lookout & check out the RCAF Canadair F-86 Mark 6, 'Golden Hawks' kit.

@@rpm1796 thanks! I will check it out

The P38 is called the Lightning, the thunderbolt has a different number.

Yes, you have to add (I think) 17g of weight in the nose.

Hi Sean, I used Vallejo aluminium 71.062 which, despite being Model Air actually goes on really well with a broad brush.

Have you ever thought of using humbrol (27002) metalcote spray?

I didn't use any and it just, I mean JUST, sits OK. I know the instructions say I should have put some in...

Yes it does need some weight, you have to try to find spaces for them though! Under the seat and inside the top of the nose work.

Yes, I needed to add quite a bit to the nose - I was using lead pellets but they have a poor packing ratio (they have a lot of gaps between them) so now I crush airgun pellets flat and use them. Put them as far forward as possible and keep dry fitting to make sure the two halves will still go together!