I'm having problems starting in the very cold. That morning of -3C... The engine temperature sensor is disconnected, so the dashboard will run the glow plugs for fifteen seconds. What I tend to do is run them for fourteen, flick the key to off and back (resets the dash), let them run for another ten and then try starting. I don't think the problem is so much the power of the battery as the inability of the glow plugs to create enough heat to start combustion. Remember also that it's a bloody big piston, being diesel, which means it'll also be sucking in a lot of freezing cold air to further reduce the effectiveness of the glow plugs. My little car has had a good few "don't wanna" cranks, but thankfully hasn't let me down, eventually starting. The mower, on the other hand... That's basically cargo cult mechanics. Air filter on, air filter off, petrol thrown in the carb, butane, anything and everything. Nothing is consistent - mower starts when mower starts and not a moment before. 🤷‍♀️

Can be due low compression

Yes, it was difficult to start and when it was running made quite a clattery-ticky noise (even more than normal). As explained in the video, I wasn't able to get it seen by a mechanic as we'd just gone into a lockdown so all of the appointments (including mine) were cancelled. Oh well...

It’s normal. I drilled all of them and engine works a little bit better but it’s hard to feel difference

C'est pas possible de dire. J'écoute des moteurs kaput autour de 60,000km et des autres marche vers 150,000km. Pour la votre, assuré vous que il est bien réviser chaque 5000km (changement de huile, filtre, etc). Regard l'intérieur du radiateur (pas rouille), etc. Est la voiturette débridé? Si oui, c'est possible que la moteur est bien frappé. Je suis dépassée l'autre jour par un Ligier qui roule à ~60km/h et le pauvre moteur, le bruit, oh mon dieu! Aussi, pour cet kilométrage, il y possibilité des autres choses - les roulements, les variateurs... Regarde aussi l'état du coque pour un idée de le soin de conducteur. C'est un question, aussi, de la prix. Si il y un très bon affaire, c'est bien. Mais pour cet kilométrage, moi, je pense que c'est mieux de regarde ailleurs.

And for my English speaking viewers: It's not possible to say. I hear about motors that give up around 60,000km, while others run to around 150,000km. For yours, ensure that it is properly serviced every 5000km (oil change, filter, etc.). Look inside the radiator (no rust), etc. Is the speed limiter been removed? If so, it's possible that the motor has been thrashed. I was overtaken the other day by a Ligier traveling at ~60kph and the poor engine, the noise, oh my god! Also, for this "mileage" (well, kms), there is the possibility of other things - bearings, pulleys... Also look at the condition of the bodywork for an idea of ​​driver care. It's also a question of price. If it is a really good deal, that's fine. But for this mileage, I think it's better to look elsewhere.

​@@heyrickblogLombardini ldw 502 have power if they adjusted right but they ain't that reliable... That's why I got an Lombardini ldw 602 very nice sound and 80kmh no problem

Il est décrit dans la vidéo, a 0m15s - entre 0.145mm et 0.185mm pour un moteur Kubota Z402 (l'original type). Peut être différente pour les autres moteurs Kubota, allez chez Google. 😉

@@heyrickblog régler les 4 a 0,15 ses bon ?

Un garagiste pas dit les 4 a 0,15

Le fiche technique pour le moteur : manualzz.com/doc/54974360/kubota-z402-eb-onan-1-workshop-manual Voir page S-7 pour "valve clearances".

@@heyrickblog What are the clearances on the intake and exhaust valves?

Je suis Britannique, et je parle française comme un vache espagnol. 😐

Can you show how to do it correctly?

@@Ivlodded in the correct position, hold blade dimensions with the correct dimensions in valve clearance, loosen lock nut and adjust dimensions with screwdriver so blade dimensions lock easily, lock with nut with ring wrench, check.blade dimensions should remain throughout the process.

@@ken1kson388 I know it's not the correct way, but I didn't have a .15 blade. Had the mechanic check this during the service, two were slightly off, two were good. Which is better than before I started where a .30 could pass! But, yes, if you want to do it PROPERLY, this isn't the way. 😉

copper hammer should be used in this case

petrol versions better sounds like a tractor lol