Thank you David for your vlog it's been wonderful to me, I've learned how to make my project so much stronger with heavy load.

David, you should revisit this one now that it’s been out a while. Staying true to Alan’s original intended design is the key. The complexity of the splayed base is what makes this stand so unique and superior to other scrap wood stand videos that I am seeing. A long time hobbyist carpenter, I only recently got into wood turning. I just got my first lathe and wanted something more than just setting my gear up on a piece of plywood spanning two sawhorses. I weighed the pros and cons of buying some store bought metal stand vs. building my own. After much research I decided that Alan’s design was the one I wanted to emulate. The entire build was a learning experience with the bare minimum of tools for me (seriously… a 6-1/2” cordless saw, basic drill bits with cordless drill, and a speed square). The end result is almost identical to Alan’s original. Other than using oak rather than birch, leaving a slight lip around the trim at the top to keep parts from rolling off, and no hole for extended belts it is perfectly done by the original design. This piece really stands out with the final outcome being a functional yet classy piece of furniture which will last forever! Do your viewers a solid and go the extra mile building it the way it was intended.

Thank you for making this video. I started turning about 10 months ago, and I can't get anyone to build a stand for me, so I'm just going to build it myself. I'll have to invest little by little in the proper equipment, but I think it is important to have a stand that is strong and intuitive. Like you, my needs will call for a longer stand to account for a bed extension I plan to invest in. Interesting to note that I purchased a metal universal stand and noticed that for the first time the vibration from the lathe reverberated throughout the room. I turned for 8 months just using a sturdy wooden dresser (I'm poor) and never experienced vibration throughout the room. I am now convinced that this wooden bench will do a better job due to its low center of gravity design, and also due to the birch plywood more naturally absorbing the vibration. I think the metal designs conduct vibration rather than absorbing it.

Great build. I like the way the rails are joined to the legs. Using copper pipe looks like a great idea. I’m working on a workbench design and might modify that by using two bolts or a larger bolt, It looks like it would work and be easy to do. That type of joint also allows for tightening if the joint loosens up over time.

I have to say I built this lathe stand for a mini jet 1014 and I can say this is a great lathe stand. I modified the design by placing concrete blocks built into the lower shelf with a lid

that 5 degrees is everything.

nice video. You were easy to hear and concise with your directions. You get a thumbs up from me!

I really like this design, and with making it a little longer is perfect for my old Beaver/Rockwell that’s around the same size as your lathe Thank you for sharing

Thanks for sharing my friend, I followed your directions and built this today. It has been a long long day, but I got it done. I was going to buy a stand for my lathe, It cost $150 for the lathe I just purchased. I decided it would cost less to build it plus if I did it like you did, it should be studier or possibly studier. I am pleased I made it, The copper pipe was a little bit of a slow down if you will but I got them all in. I did 2 bolts per rail like the directions you referenced in this video and linked to. otherwise, it went smooth, not sire if I saved any money since I had to buy almost all the materials, but I do have some scrap now for some other small projects I need to get done, so all in all it still is more for the money than buying the stand, and I made it. Thanks for sharing this video with us. I won't be doing a how to video, I will link others to yours. I will do a short video on the set up and links back to yours if someone wants to build their own. Thanks again my friend and have a blessed week. Dale

You can buy half moon nuts that do a similar job to the copper+nut, and are a staple of flat pack furniture that needs good long term strength (eg IKEA beds).. Most are really crappy cast aluminium though so shop around for some nice ones. Also, a washer or two in the bolt end to stop it grinding itself into the wood (initially and over time with vibration).

Great! I have that very same 1930s wood lathe. Glad I came across your video.

David, a couple of questions if I may. First, do you recommend this stand for a lathe that is 60” in length? If, so what modifications would you also recommend? Second, because of floor space constrictions I’m also considering narrowing the overall width of the stand. IYO what stability issues will that create? Thanks so much for you advice and input.

Brilliant

Hi I am intrigued as to how you intend to change lathe speed without the hinge' As fro splaying the legs I agree the angles ar not necessary I am simply going to attach some 4X2 pieces wider than the straight leg at the base as the weight of sand will keep them firm. Helpfull thankyou.

The only change I would make is to put a steel washer on before tightening to stop the bolt from being pulled into the wood

only one big criticism about the joinery - which i otherwise like - i hope your glue joint is strong since that rod is being placed right at the glue joint interface (between the two layers of plywood) - you might have made a better choice by using a solid wood like maple

you can use 1/4-20 x 1/2" barrel nuts

End result?.?

Great build, the link to the plans doesn't work where can i get a copy of the plans from?

Sorry if a stupid question but I have seen so many KZfaq videos showing how glue nowadays is stronger than wood and when tested the wood snaps not the glue. So my question is why use the lag bolts? Thanks for video, thumbs up given 😀. Cheers

The link to the plans still gives an error

Hello, are the plans no longer available on the website? I've been getting an error on the site for the last day or so.

I would suggest you both use, and demonstrate using your machinists/sliding square angle to set along side of your drill when trying to drill out something that I suppose you want to appear to be a 90* hole. Both of the places you drilled through legs they went in on angles that could prove problematic. IE: watch what you've filmed before throwing it out there. I would use a standard HSS drill when drilling Copper, it would easily drill your plywood too, and wouldn't wreck the tips/wings of your nice Brad Pints. I agree with John Franks's comment to use a nice wide washers on the outside, so your bolt heads didn't draw through to the inside. The inset lower shelf is a smart idea. Keep trying, many are rooting for you......

Very annoying "music" in background. Is it necessary?

Great project. But the problem is the price, $240 for a sheet of plywood alone. Approx $70 more than a new lathe table.

Drilling straight 2+ inches and getting the hole in the center of a 3/4" copper collar is neither practical nor easily done.amy will ruin both the wood and copper Gotta be a better way.

To keep the nut from spinning, you can always just jam a screwdriver in there.

Kill the music and explain

it is the worst stand ever

“I will cut my legs to the required dimensions” 😫🤪😳 Why you people use to say, My legs, my top, my hole etc. Etc. My my my my my my my my 😂😂😂😂😂