I am unaware that Sthil is making, allowing or contracting out Chinese clones. Not sure how I feel about this. It seemed to have done the job with some minor issues but then again show me a saw, or anything for that matter, that doesn't. I have a small Husky that I had to replace the carb and the oiler on it and it's not that old. Thanks for these vid's they are very informative. I went ahead and bought one of those saw mills after watching your vid and talking to you about it. Just came in the mail the other day, anxious to get it together and put it to use. Again thanks! Jay

K'C', Make some 2" to 3" wide by 6" to 8" long by 3/4" thick wedges from hardwood, oak or similar, and place them in the kerf every few feet to keep the slab from pinching the chain...works wonders for making milling easier... especially at the end of the cut.

Enjoyed seeing the Chinese 070 put to use. Always fun to see how they can make a decent saw copy, ship it 6,000 to 7,000 miles, and all for $250 - $350. I'd say it's a winner...just keep in mind it was never intended to be a rpm'er and run a sharp chain with plenty of bite and it should be a real chip spitter when it gets it's final tune.

If you used a brand new chain and didn't tighten it after the first cut, it might have just stretched.

Thanks for the video. would you recommend the 070 clone for milling at this point?

thank you! was waitng on a milling reveiw of that saw, seem to have anymore torque tan the 660? great videos! suppose a topend from a 090 would work on that saw?

Thats a cool saw. Thinking of buying a 660 for milling. my i ask, way you use the later after you get a flatt cut? greatings form a new subscriber from Norway 👍😄

The wear that you mention in the notes is likely due to too tight a chain with a hard nose bar. Run them a little looser that you are use too and they require lots of oil. The tensioner should not have to hold the tension once the bar nuts are snugged down.

Bummer to hear that you've had problems with it, I was just thinking about ordering a 070 clone. I know I've read the adjuster is not as good as OEM, but still, I wonder why it won't stay tight after the bar nuts are tightened down? Is there a wrong size stud or something that's preventing the bar from being tightly clamped? Any updates on this since March?

These saws do run lil RICH...too lean and they will overheat....also as you know they require a larger amount of oil to fuel mixture...40:1 during break-in which they say is 15 tank loads......who waits for that?...lol....sounds like you had low oil amounts lubing the Guide Bar Chain slot...there is a adjustment for that under the bottom...see manual...I use a EXTERIOR CHAIN BAR Luber with auxilary Chain Oil Tank and valve...you can get these on E-bay....run the chain a lil looser...hope you are using a RIPPING CHAIN ..if not this will speed up the process and wear and tear on the Bar and Chain....and YOU..lol....have fun...doing is learning..thanks for sharing!!!

Why do you use a ladder every cut? That's a bummer about the chain tensioner.

that saw seemed to be similar in power to a new Stihl saw. I wonder if it will gain power once it is broken in?

but it says stihl on it lol has to be great yea saw has tons of power but seems to still be a little off i dont know if that is the sound of a 070 still love it most people replace that with oem

to go better and faster...forget the Ladder after you get the first FLAT Surface milled.....2nd....use wedges about every 2-3 ft to keep the cut from binding down on the bar causing unnecessary friction.....

How's the saw running these days?

Looks good and sounds good and im sure people will complain but those were never hi rpm saws the 660 clone guys swapped out their tensioners for oem mainly or modified them that's the most common complaint of all thing's lol maybe be the 070s the same with the tensioner having too soft a metal idk.

KC, with as much milling as you do why don't you rig up a winch for your mill. It will make things easier on you and will yield much smoother slab.

Just purchased this setup ( still available on EBay). I am planning to buy a ripping chain for it before it arrives. It’s a 0.404” pitch 0.063” gauge, but I’m not sure how many drive links I need. Any advice on that? Thanks, great video.

Your engine sounds like a healthy 070 to me, mufflers than have no baffling or do have baffling can and will effect the sound. Your plug can be dark and still be perfect if the electrode is a nice light brown at the same time. Different brands of oil will affect the color too. Kimball, I think you can get by without your ladder on the second and later cuts. On your tensioner that is mentioned here on the 660 was an alignment problem that was fixed by putting a sleeve on the end raising it slightly. The fellow that designed it used a small tube slid over the end, raising it very slightly. But your problem may be different as I would expect. Rather than buy an oem see if Stens has a replacement, the ones I have seen are much more durable metal. there is likely not much on the forums on the 070, you keep up the good work. Milling puts a huge strain on the engine and the 070 is the perfect saw for the job because it is slower. I forget to say nice job on the milling.

What is the rpm difference between the 070 and 660? I don't care if a saw is low revving compared to today's screamers, if it cuts fast.

Were you running a ripping chain? If so where did you get it or did you make it? Thank you.

What website did you order from? Thanks

You might want to rethink putting all those screws through the ladder in the "field" of the log/boards... Putting them there is creating defects in what otherwise would be nice wood. Planning the wood down far enough to remove those screw holes will remove a lot of wood. Maybe keep the screws way out on the edges of the log or not use the ladder once you have a flat surface to work off...

You need to be using a lot less cutter angle when you sharpen that chain. 10 to 15 degrees works well. You can also buy chain that is already sharpened with the optimal angles for ripping.

For some reason YT sent this to my "Up Next" list again...lol. BTW, I see that 070 kits are $156 + shipping today at Huztl. 660 kits are $130

Are you in chile?

Do people never shim the wood while cutting planks anymore they cut planks they are running slow because they do not use shims. That 1 mm Gap you get on the back side that isn't dragging your chain speed down will make this an extremely easy job I have a Chinese 070 without a skip tooth or anything and I Breeze right through because I use shims. And I don't have to sharpen my chain every cut because I overheated the chain.

I'll be buying one of these in kit form Along with a 660 But its funny i am selling off 3 Real stihl chainsaws to buy clones O.o The 070 they've cloned for a few years now And I Think They've gotten a lot better But I Look at videos of the old 070 and the older REAL 070 seems to cut faster to me

This would go a lot faster with some shims

Still milling with this saw?

afleetcommand is a great guy and does the 660 farmer tech stuff if you havent watch i would say check it out.

What is the rpm difference between the 070 and 660? I don't care if a saw is low revving compared to today's screamers, if it cuts fast.