FooDoo6 Thanks for watching! I also have a 73 GTV 2000 that needs loads of work. I’ll get it on the channel soon.

NewBeRVer Thanks 👍 It’s been a long grind for me to have that space, it makes all the difference in the world when working on my cars.

Perhaps Jethro will source a UK car and then he'll need a team of welders LOL

Steve Wuertz will do 👍 I don’t have that many metal working tools so I’ll mostly be working with pressed panels and hammers and dollies and body files.

Gerard Scheffer Yeah there would have been no point painting over all that trouble in the sills, it would come out eventually.

Gerard Scheffer Hi Gerard, that's a good question... My way to make things fit is to weld the four corners where it touches and gas heat the areas that need persuasion and gently tap them into position. Once it all fits and looks straight remove the four welds and dress the metal with care back to fresh and new appearance to then spray with a weldable zinc spray to prime and seal the two closed sections and plug weld or spot weld them back in. This is important to get a rust proof panel and longevity . Always allow for ventilation holes to dry out the panels from moisture. Remember when a car is driven it exchanges air via these holes and keeps the evaporation levels up to stay dry... G

Karol Surwilo Hi Karol, I'm another Alfa enthusiast owner of 3 coups 105 the first was a series 2 /1750 .. 1970 the second a step front 1969 / 1300 and the third a 1967 Guilia sprint gt Veloce . I'm currently working on the 67 and was wondering what yours was ..? Also is the rumour of a supply of rust panels for these 105 alfas being manufactured from Poland true..? I have a friend in stretchen I think it's called sorry for spelling but he isn't the full knowledge on alfas . Please help :-) Regards Geoff Perth Australia

@@geoff3656 hey Geoff .. Im in Sydney .. if Karol replies I would also like access to the Polish Panels ..

@@novi0974 hi Novi You say there are Polish panels still to go .. I’d like to talk more on that.. I could call you tomorrow if you like .. Cheers Geoff

If you don't open it up then you'll never know what's underneath. The old saying: Do it now, or do it later. I saw an old Lamborghini that had hidden rust that eventually devoured the car. Pity!

thomas langpaul It probably will be!

Greg Wayne I think I will sell this one eventually to help fund the 64 Sprint build.

Rust never sleeps but you can pretty well kill it ,it needs air and water just like us ,if you starve it of those two vital elements ,the car will last for ever....a very long time anyway.

I hope your Dad documents that. The dimensions of the engine, the mounting points are different to say nothing of the wiring harness. It can be done but not by me without a lot of help from skilled youtubers-so I hope you guys can document that process

Steve Wuertz Hi Steve , I'm actually going to build one with a Lexus v8 through the original Alfa box and hybrid Dif from Lexus , the Lexus dif will require shortening on one side as the Alfa one is, but it will be a limited slip then...plus the correct ratio for engine. Lexus is a 4 ltr 32 valve engine which I propose to run on a big carb. I'm thinking it won't be under the bonnet height though .. The donor car will also give its suspension front end and rack.. Modified all the way to fit.. Dreaming maybe but it can be done if you watch Binky the mini conversion... Check it out on KZfaq 'Binky Mini' Cheers

titanus49 Yeah the work involved in doing it right is crazy. I’m not surprised it’s expensive after doing it myself.

Thanks 👍

Jansen Photo Expeditions I am going to rat rod this car for a while. I’m going to build it in stages. I’ll get the metalwork perfect and get it mechanically sorted, and paint the underside and engine bay. Then I’ll drive it like that for a while then paint the outside, then do an interior for it.

Jeff inToronto Yeah the outer sills were mostly good, except up front around the A pillar base. Unfortunately they’re only available as a whole sill, you can’t just replace a small section.

I am one of these Alfa owners you speak of, and I’m also in Toronto!

Since this video I have put the guard back. I had a disc shatter and it was pretty frightening. I was lucky to get away unharmed.

I saw a KZfaq video a couple years back of a guy with a broken disc embedded deep in his face. It wasn’t pretty. I don’t even trust the guard after that, although of course I still use it. I also wear a face shield and gloves.

Riven Motors Most of my friends are car people these days. So they understand.

Riccardo Maestroni Yeah I’ll keep it as a ratstyle for a little bit, then do an interior and paint job. For now I’ll get the underside and mechanicals perfect and drive it a little.

Mark Shepherd It’s a local product that’s essentially the same as the Wurth rust converter primer, I’ll do a little section on it in the next video.

Jethro Bronner thanks Jethro, that indeed is very much appreciated 👍 I’ve never used a rust converter before as there tends to be so many differing reviews none of which I find to be conclusive. I did try the vinegar wash method preferred in the US but was not convinced 🤦‍♂️. This has always led me to simply metal finish followed by panel wipe before epoxy normally within a 30 minute time window as to not allow time for surface rust to appear. However since I’m fabricating a weld-in roll cage and various other gussets and strengtheners, it proves impossible to use my normal technique. It gets frustrating 😉

Not wanting to upstage jethro but P.O.R make some very good rust converting and sealing products,worth looking into.

waen909 Thanks, I’m aware of the POR product range but have never used them... I’ll do some R&D and run some tests 👍

I’m from South Africa, but from the English part on the East Coast.

John Capidecallu It’s something I’ve been teaching myself recently because I’ve found it impossible to get good quality work out of local body shops.

@@JethroBronner aren't you in the UK? Some of the best Alfa shops in the world!

alfaholic3 I’m in South Africa. Good work is difficult to find here.

@@JethroBronner Cool man I'm from South Africa. How did you end up in SA. I assumed you were in the UK based on your SA to London video.

Sammy That’s only if you start cutting the inner and middle sills between the A and B pillars. Those are the main structural parts of the sill. The outer sill is very thin sheet metal. I would brace if I removed any more than this.

thanks BTW , this is very informative, I plan to tackle my step nose restoration very soon so you experiences are very helpful

Sammy I’m going to get into the metal restoration on my Stepnose on this channel soon

Ask the guys at Classic Alfa to let you know how much shipping will be. Then add shipping to your total checkout value, then multiply that by 20, and then multiply your total by 1.35, and that should be close to your final amount.

Jethro Bronner whoa

01199 dublegi I don’t even know how to begin telling you what a stupid question this is. No I’m not going to cut my other car up for spares. And that car is bad in all the same places anyway and even if it wasn’t they don’t match. I will restore BOTH cars properly with new metal. End of.

Oh, fortunate youth. Been there, done that. But I wasn't thinking about cutting any specific car to repair another specific car in your collection. I was thinking about buying a car as a source of spares. Something not worth repairing and cutting that up.

@@dublegi-hr8kq sigh