No, although there were a couple of small spots where the brass was already exposed, the nickel is still fully in tact. All things considered, I'm happy with how it polished up for a free lantern covered in paint, but it's definitely not the shiniest end-product I've ever had. I wish I could tell you why some nickel polishes to a bright shine and other nickel remains dark and/or dull. I don't know why and it's hard to predict. I've had founts that I thought would be disasters that polished up and look virtually brand new and others that didn't look all that bad, but that are still dark/dull no matter how much polishing I do. The one thing I have noticed is that *sometimes* it seems due to surface contamination. I've polished a few founts that had runs from some kind of spilled liquid on them and while the rest of the fount polished up nicely, the nickel under that runs was dull and dark no matter what I did.

Yes, I don't have on like that, but have seen then from time to time.

@@davidlittlejohn2640 This might help. The external pump 427s are different from other check valves. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mplnicZ63rPTZn0.htmlsi=I6z61DIBaKC8PJ3Y

Yes. Old Coleman Parts often has them for sale and there are two or three guys in the collector community who make and sell them. Since I don't know how they'd feel with me posting their names and contact info here, I suggest asking in the Coleman-related groups on Facebook and other social media platforms.

OK thanks.@@king.coleman

I've never worked on a 132A, so I can't say for certain. I do see on the parts diagram that those are parts that can be replaced, which would likely indicate they should be removable.

Old Coleman Parts usually has reproduction mica chimneys and there are a couple of guys in the collector community who make them as well.

For the most part they're all different. Different generators have different diameters and require different amounts of preheating. The R55 preaheat ups are fairly small, with a small diameter opening. The 237 ones are significantly larger. Different models also differ in what sort of clearances they've got. Preheat cups are fairly model-specific.

I've never bought any, but everyone I know who has, bought it on ebay. There always seem to be multiple sellers there.

@@king.coleman thank you? Could you possibly do a video on how to restore a Q99 generator?

@@AstroHunter5280 I already have. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/a76FbKiFvLK6n58.html

I'd suggest posting photos at the colemancollectorsforum.com or in one of the Coleman collector groups on Facebook. There are a lot of guys those places who are very knowledgable. Akron's are the only ones I know of that had mica lighting doors. If there's a diamond pattern on the collar and/or vent riser, that would be an Akron. I'm not sure what you're describing with the pump. Is detached or built-in? Some models had built-in pumps that protrude from the fount.

Either the valve stem nut is too tight or the graphite packing inside it needs to be replaced. Loosen the nut until the stem is easier to turn, then tighten it back up as much as you can without the stem becoming too stiff again, then check for leaks around the stem while it's running. That may be all it needs. If that doesn't do it, you'll need to replaced the graphite packing.

@king.coleman thank you I will do that and thanks for all your expertise and knowledge! For sharing!

I've got a video on R55s: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eN-mrZxyks6pdIE.html

Do you mean a preheat cup? There's no "regular" preheat cup. There are several different styles and at least two different diameters for the through hole. The ones that fit an R-55 have a smaller diameter hole (and are smaller all around). The big kerosene preheat cups might fit too loosely, causing them to hang at an angle.

@@king.coleman ok thank you.

Yes, it does go stale. I haven't paid enough attention to the process to tell you how long it takes, but if it's gone from clear to yellow, it's definitely stale. It'll still burn just fine, but you may find it puts off more of an odour (I've noticed this particularly with wick lamps), and it may cause your generator to carbon up more quickly...but then kerosene generators carbon up more quickly anyway.

If everything is working right they should hold pressure indefinitely. The best way to check for a leak is by dunking the fount in water and looking for bubbles. The usual culprits on these are a bad lead seal on the fuel cap or a leaking check valve.

@@king.coleman Are the check valves rebuildable? getting bubbles from the valve

@@nbensema No. You might try soaking it in carb cleaner to dissolve any gunk that might be in it. The bearing inside or the mating surface may be pitted. You can buy a new one from Old Coleman Parts.

I will try soaking next looks like they are sold out of check valves thanks for the help

Not if the stem and nut are tight and you don't leave it in for long. I left the valve in the citric acid for about five minutes, just enough to loosen the crud. Leave it in too long and the graphite will still seal, but it will get "sticky" and the stem may become difficult to turn.

@@king.coleman Thanks!

It's a 6" cotton buffing wheel. I buy them at a local tool supply shop.

@@king.coleman do you know what ply? I see 50…80…

Sorry, no. This is what I use. testing.roktools.ca/product/6-buffing-wheel-soft/

@@king.coleman thank you!

I have sold the occasional lantern, but I don't actively do any selling. I'm more inclined to trade with other collectors.