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thanks - we do work hard on making educational videos

thanks Todd

Awesome, thank you!

I hope you had a good breakfast, eggs and building lessons always go well together.

Thanks for watching! You should see the blooper reel

@@ConstructionEd - LOL! I worked for 30 years in railroad technical training so I appreciate good videos when I see them! I've been retired for almost 10 years now but I also enjoy learning from KZfaq and I am grateful that you took the time to do a GREAT job! Woodworking has always fascinated me but framing has been a mystery to me and you all really have the knack for making it easy! Again, Thanks So Much! Take Care, Tom

Glad to hear it. We also have a video on window installation.

Glad they are being viewed across the pond

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Thanks for the comment and enjoy the other lessons

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glad you liked it

Thank you very much! - I hope you watch more of our videos in the framing series. More are coming each week.

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Noted - that may be available in the future

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Joe is a little over 6 feet.

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You're welcome! And thank for visiting the channel

Thanks again!

I learned some of the Math in my Structural Analysis class at school, not terribly fun. Now most folks just look at the IRC code book and use those tables - or of course just do what the engineer told ya to do, lol. Yes the high header can carry the same load as the drop header - in fact it can carry a bit more when it is up tight against the top-plate. The other main benefit for a high header is later remodeling. It is nice to be able to increase the height of a window without having to replace a header...

sorry for the delay Matt. You can connect the header by face-nailing through the King Studs. Also - if you have a high header you can face nail through the top plate. The jack studs are taking the weight, and the fasteners are there just to keep in all in place

@@ConstructionEdwhat an incredible resource!!! I am THOROUGHLY impressed This channel is a GOD send Thanks for ALL you are doing

I am not really sure what you are asking about - the RO framing is the same over a crawl space or a basement. If the RO is in the foundation - then those are typically supported with the concrete wall and then header in place - sometimes that is in metal. Then the rest of the RO is framed out with wood so the door has something to connect to. But this construction would typically be called out on the plans and approved by an engineer. I could be wrong - but the RO framing is the same for balloon framing - but you should consult a Structural Engineer since I assume you are talking about a multistory building since you referenced balloon framing. Especially if you are dropping in a RO where there was not one before.

Yes, absolutely. You can also just use one 2x4 as a header. It is not carrying any additional load, it is just needed to hang the door

The high header placement is becoming more and more popular - I am personally a fan. But the header does not have to be oversized

Check out our channel for teachers - www.youtube.com/@TEACHConstruction Here is the link to a video about the scaled lumber kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ladmqJOgtp-rpas.html

We cover some of that in the blocking lesson, which can be found on the playlist.

Not sure I understand your question. When you ask about "attaching" are you asking the types of fasteners? If you are referring to the board orientation - typically a structural header has the boards on edge.

Since the header is non-structural, you don't really need a header - just use some 2x4 framing. But it is likely you want something to fasten your drywall to above the door - I am assuming. In that case, you can use some other material to fill the 1/2 if you really want something in place of a header.

In our opinion, Jack Studs should not be split. A sill can be end nailed through the face of the jack if the RO framing sequence is done in a way that allows. You will see folks frame with extra framing members under a sill at the ends. - I call them stilts because they are not true cripples. The false argument for those framing parts is that the sill holds more weight. I call this a false argument because the sill does not need to hold more weight - the windows are fastened to the RO - very little weight is actually on the sill. Advanced framing techniques encourage less lumber rather than more. We say if the lumber is not required, it should not be added.

@@ConstructionEd Thank you very much for your quick and thorough answer Joe 👍👍👍 All that make sense, indeed. In my current situation I am looking at designing a rough opening of about 10F that will actually not receive a window frame but a counter top. I suppose that in such scenario adding stilts could make sense. I was also thinking about adding a double sill as well. Many many thanks for your feedback and all your videos. They are well made and very instructive 🙏

Ronnie - yes the cripples would travel from the top plate to the header in this drop header configuration - the image at 8:30 is "section view" to show the orientation of the framing member.

When the header is install high, the framing member at the top of the RO is really just a nailer. I have heard it called a header plate, or a nonstructural header, we sometimes call it a header plate. But I don't think there is an "approved" term for that member.

Jacks should always be a continuous framing member. While I have see some people slips them, it is not a good idea.

Number of jack studs are determined by span and the load above. Determine the load and you should be able to find a header sizing table online or in ICC code.

We cheated and that was from a pre-stained kit we bought from one of the big box stores - I think it was Home Depot

But it could have been the blue store

Thanks for the info!

Today - I would purchase insulated headers or build a box header. But if I am making a simple sandwich header, then adhesive is not required

Headers are only required if the wall is load-bearing. If you are adding an interior partition wall you can use the same size framing lumber as the studs in place of a structural header. You are mainly creating an upper framing member to frame in your door and a place for the trim to be nailed to.

it all depends on the load above - there are tables in building code to help determine the permissible header

I often rely on the tables in the code and what the engineer has specified. I personally like the headers that are boxed with insulation in the middle.

I had never heard of that kind of header, and I was thinking the same thing. If I were a pro building from engineered plans, of course I would build it as shown. But I'm a DIYer building my house, and I don't think I'd do that kind! This was helpful. I have half my house built, and your videos show me where I went wrong (not many wrong spots, thank goodness), where I went right, and how to do it better on the rest of the house. There are so many practical things you only learn by doing. Like how do you handle it when most of your lumber is warped in at least one direction? I've gotten a lot better with that, but warped, twisted and splitting lumber is always a headache. Is there a video for that, other than to insist on picking out your own boards at the lumber yard?

It looks like you are watching all of our videos Charles - keep it up

You can meet the wind load requirements as separate from load capacity of the header

we have courses at TradeSkillsU.online

It all depends on the load from above. On sheds, the doors are often in the gable wall with very little load to worry about.

While you are likely correct that moving the header from the middle to the edge could result in less strength. But the additional strength is not needed.

They do make sense in many install situations - Blocking is always easy to add if needed.

@@ConstructionEd Rather than a high header and blocking, I would simply use a low header.

It depends on the door that you are installing. The specs will call out the dimensions, but with 3 inches to work with you likely have enough space

if you are asking about the floor construction it all depends on the span distance of the joists and the loads you are expecting on the floor. As far as 2x4 walls, that is fine depending on the usage and your local code. Meaning 2x4 may not provide for enough installation in cold climates- but in warmer zones it is often allowed. I am sure that does not answer your question, but much more information is required to design a floor.

@@ConstructionEd 24" span

It's in south America it's a warm climate

I will be adding drywall on the interior its going to be a 3 story house and it's going to be 40ftx60ft

3 stories is a lot of weight for only a 2x8 joist. I would check with an engineer

Code header tables for you location should call that out. Sometimes it is a double jack and a single king.

Thank you.

Thanks always for the input and for watching. There are many regional differences in terms and some builders even develop their own naming. We at TEACH try to find the most accepted and descriptive terms. You know how tricky this can be for a global audience and so many times textbook terms are not always used everywhere or by all. The cap plate (or lesser used term "crown plate") clearly describes the uppermost position in a wall. I believe anyone learning framing would struggle with understanding your preferred term "first plate" as it's name does not indicate its location in a wall frame. To a newbie, "first plate" could possibly suggest the bottom or sole plate. As for "Second plate" - if i know nothing about framing this might be a single top plate but I am unsure. Remember, a wall with a single plate only at the top is always referred to as a "top plate", so an additional one stacked above makes the group a double top plate as you said. With three basic terms used in the most current version of the IRC - top plate, double top plate, and cap plate, walls built with either a single or double top plate can be described with less confusion and a student is also being primed for learning building code (IMHO). I think we can both agree that communicating clearly through terms is just as important as tool and measuring skills when working in the field. Props to you for caring and the feedback is very appreciated!

I have to agree with Joe. Bottom plate, top plate, and cap plate. The last two making combined making a double top plate. Start with the text book terms and then move to field terms

No - a 2x4 is just the name of the framing materials. The Actual measurements are 1 1/2 '' x 3 1/2 ''

3” + 1/2”= 3&1/2” Nominal number is 2x4 Actual is 1.5”x3.5”

Thanks for jumping in on the comment Cody - He is right, the actual dimension of a 2x4 is 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" - We cover that on our materials lesson video in detail.

Thank you so much Cody

Thanks . I’m subscribed now !

Wood is about R1 per inch. Insulation is much higher

The actual dimension of a 2x4 is 1.5'' x 3.5'' - Watch our lesson on Dimensional lumber for more info on that kzfaq.info/get/bejne/na6JjJacqd28eKM.html

Even thouught they call the lumber 2x4 or 2x6 for example... its not the actual size if you measure it.....

They shave 1/2” off the lumber to remove discrepancies

If it were only that easy

I have unfortunately see this, but I thinking trying to TRAIN it is a bad idea is too late - that should be momma's job

While the effects of thermal bridging are somewhat debatable, and sometimes unavoidable the 2021 IECC and IRC require several mitigation steps