Yep, that's next!

@@DanielNaroditskyGM awesome! Looking forward to it!

@@DanielNaroditskyGM let's goi

@Daniel Naroditsky Please make sure you cover the old 'opponent offers a draw on their move, let their hand hang' trick. 😉

@@DanielNaroditskyGM what about vertical castling? Nevermind, FIDE patched the rule of castling after promoting a pawn to a rook.

There is no such thing, it’s just regular, like how to offer a draw? Say draw and if he shakes your hand it’s a draw if he plays or says no he declines.

But if u want u can search for “resign like a gm”

You do not have to say check. Most players will not, but you are allowed to and some do. It's generally best not to. You do need to play "touch move". If you touch a piece then you HAVE to move that piece. If you touch your opponent's piece then you have to capture that piece. Unless it is illegal to do so, and even if it's a very bad move. The only exception to this: if the pieces are out of position, off center, or knocked over, you can first say "adjust" or "I adjust" or "j'adoube" (which is French for adjust - pronounced JAH-doob). Also, as much as possible try to use the same hand for all your moves and also the same hand for hitting the clock. There is a rule that you must hit the clock with the same hand that moved the piece. It's not always strictly enforced but it's very bad etiquette to appear to be trying to exploit that. If you hover a hand over the clock to hit it quickly you'll get called on this quickly. If you are used to online play you may accidentally forget to hit your clock after moving. This is very bad and you need to find a way to avoid that. There is no rule that your opponent has to remind you and most opponent's won't. There actually is a rule that spectators are specifically prohibited from reminding you about this (excepting tournament arbiters). If you don't hit your clock then your opponent can just think until you do, if your time runs out then you lose. It feels like cheating but it's legal and people will do it. So be very careful about not forgetting. When castling, pick up the king first. You can use both hands but that makes you look like a newb. Best is to 1. Pick up the king using thumb and forefinger. 2. Still holding the king, 2. pick up the rook between two other fingers. 3. Put the king onto the target square. 4. Drop the rook on it's target next to the king. (Alternately you CAN pick up the king and place it, then pick up the rook and place it. This is perfectly fine but if you let go of the king on the wrong square (even an illegal square) your opponent can try to force you to make a different king move. There is s also etiquette about stopping the clock when there is a dispute or when claiming a win on time. These are complicated and there's a lot to explain. Your best bet is just never to stop the clock unless you ask the Tournament director first if you should. Another very important thing I nearly forgot. Keeping score. You MUST learn the notation system and keep an ACCURATE record of the moves while playing. This is helpful for studying the game later but it's absolutely VITAL for in-game reasons. If you try to claim a win or draw for any reason other than checkmate, your claim can be rejected if your score sheet has errors in it. Learn the notation. Practice writing it while playing online or against a computer. It needs to become second nature. If it is slow or distracts you from the game you will be at a large disadvantage. This is VERY important.

In addition, is threefold repitition automatically a draw or does either player have to claim it? What happens if someone flags? Do we need to get an arbiter to certify the result of each game?

@@gabrielharris3612 a repetition has to be claimed. If you don't claim it or don't notice it you can try to claim it later but it will get complicated as you'll have to flag down an arbiter to verify it. If your flag falls before you claim it then you will still lose. If someone flags, the opponent simply points out "your flag's down" and you can stop the clock and the game ends. If you don't notice it and both flags fall then it's a draw. Some players will play for this if there's a time scramble. (It's also illegal for anyone else except a certified arbiter to point out if your flag is down - although this is a hard rule to make a claim against unless you're a top tier player. You don't usually have to get arbitration for each game. When it's over, most times it will be agreed by both players what happened, so one or both of you (usually the winner) has to go report the result to the director and that's all there is to it.

Thank you for the time stamps!

Thanks champs!

thanks hobo

In KZfaq's chapter format (I only fixed the USCF spelling mistake, leaving capitalization and other spelling intact). 0:00 Intro 2:46 Joining USCF 6:10 Finding a tournament + registering 14:11 Brief history of old chess clubs 16:42 Finding local chess clubs 21:45 Finding chess camps/academies 24:13 Summarising FIDE 26:38 FIDE rating - USCF rating 30:21 Closing thoughts

Bow down to the great

LINTAHLO!

Good luck remember, Grandmasters Have taken thousands of not only wins but losses as well, so do not be discouraged!

Ayy I'mma visit there but probably not play. I did attend the Chicago open though

Thanks for this comment! I live in Chicago am now going to sign up for this as my first tournament just started playing a year ago as of the 5th. Good luck to you!

@@emilionava5286 Are you going to the Chicago Class or Illinois State Open? If so my discord pals and I will probably attend too discord.gg/zQ8g7ds

@@seanlee7054 currently signing up for the Chicago class! I’m having a little difficulty finding the Illinois state open online. Will check out the discord now as well

I'd also love to see how to prepare

I adapt quickly, but the first few minutes it feels odd!

Ya, I think I got used to it pretty quick. I blundered my g2 pawn right away and was all nervous and couldn't see the board at first haha. Maybe I was drunk. Probably that was it. Won both games though! Lol

It's the 3d pieces I think, if you were playing with poker chips with images of the figures it would prob be easier

@@Obyvvatel lichess offers 3D pieces but it bugged me so after a while i stopped and use the standard 2D board view

Same!

I love how he managed to make the name not sound obscene 😂

good luck, take your time and have fun! 😁

Daniel, Levy, and Agad are probably the best chess content creators, Eric Rosen is good too

thought so too, 'updated last during the Battle of the Antiem' as Danya said. Sure does look it. esp. the one with the hideous yellow spreadsheet.

How would you know? The video came out a few minutes ago.

@@DSFII I skipped to the part that I cared about and watched it?

@@DSFII he was probably just curious about OTB chess? and that is what this video is about.

It's generally from misclicks and accidents. I actually watched a video I last saw 2 years ago and realised I accidentally disliked it all this time...

This comment aged well 😂

No I have the same problem, I'm 1600 on chess.com now but at OTB I play like shit cz I just can't see and visualize things as on a digital board (yesterday, I actually was going to get mated as I didn't saw simple mate in 1 for my dad and he almost beat me lol) your not the only one. I guess practice is the only thing which can help here...

Same here bro...i started playing digitally..its the kind of things that you need to get used to.. I missed simple tactics and hang pieces more often in OTB than i do in an online game..

This is a good question, Danya should answer it

Absolutely!! Everyone has to start somewhere. That's why there are sections. My first big tournament, I basically lost all my games. The key, your first few tournaments, will be to gain experience, analyze your games, and come back stronger. Don't expect to score a certain number of points - go for the experience and the opportunity to learn from good players. Also, you might surprise yourself! And don't worry about being a pain, the organizer will be happy to take your entrance fee money :))

The only tournament I ever played in was in 1983. There were five rounds and I was rated around 1400. I was by over 200 points the weakest one in the tournament and lost my first four games. To finish things off, in the final game I drew a 1950 player.

That's a good question! Some tournaments have the option to claim a certain number of half point byes so maybe you could claim byes on the Saturday games?

What’s your online rating

@@marksolvent3259 1500 on Lichess

true, a lot more stressful and the really long ones can get really exhausting

I think it's just what your use to because when I started playing online I had alot harder time visualizing things on computer

Well to answer your question three months later...Yes. It will be somewhat lower. That's typical of even the finest players. When you switch to over the board chess, you'll notice the gap, but with practice, you can begin to close the gap between your online and over the board play. Repetition like anything else, ya know?

Your playing strength won't change but it is very hard to visualise and calculate. Same problem for me. But you will get used to it.

Try looking at the physical chess board with a bird's eye view

D10 means a 10 second delay on the clock. So you get 10 seconds to think before losing time.

@@mistetman2843 Interesting, so that means that for each move, 10 seconds passes before the clock starts, as opposed to getting an additional 10 seconds per move (as would be the case in a 15+10 game online)? Never heard of that before.

@@GeorgeSmyth never happens online. I guess the main difference with increment is that you can't stockpile time by making quick moves.