The best audio setting I found is linear PMC, I'm using da Vinci resolve. Also for the contaner I've notice better resisult with QuickTime than MP4

I really like the all of these rust effects, especially the red + yellow (never seen that before). But I think the inner panels (tops of hips, knees, tail, etc) look too new for the rest of the miniature + jars too much. Like the chassis is very recent, but it's had some old panels bolted on from somewhere else. I think you could have achieved a lot better + more cohesive impact by rusting + weathering the rest of the model. too.

Thank you Fitz. Slowly but surely it will come! I'm already blown away by the reception we have received.

Thank you Rafael! very warming to read. I hope you enjoyed the show! If you enjoyed this creation we have a WarDog video giving it the same treatment.

Thank you for the kind words Blake! From your comment, I now imagine marine, after marine lined up, gutted and ripped of their flesh just to make a decorative piece!

@@NuHue SKULLS FOR THE SKULL THRONE!! BLOOD FOR THE BLOOD GOD!! This is why we love chaos. Nobody does it like they do.

Thank you McC! I hope you enjoyed the show.

Thank you! I hope you enjoyed the show. Disappear again? I've been right here this whole time. 👀👀 I'm hard at work on the next releases!

Thank you so much! A very heart warming comment!!!

Thank you so much! I hope you enjoyed the show!

Thank you so much! I hope you enjoyed the show.

Thank you Colin! I hope you use some techniques!

Thank you! I hope the show was worthy of your time! There will be plenty more coming in many formats.

Thank you! a lot more is on the way!!

Thank you!

Thank you Ace! More is on the way.

Thank you Adam! I hope you enjoyed the show. There's more to come!

Thank you Fiftyonenorth! You will have a blast in building your Abominant! Best advice I could give in this hobby is, take your time!!! Plan everything out and take it step by step. (If it helps, follow the videos steps and chapters). If you are ever stuck, we do now have a Discord channel! Link is on the channels profile. I Hope you enjoyed the show.

Thank you so much!!

Thank you ZomBear! I hope you enjoyed the show!

Thank you Wayne! I hope you enjoyed the show! (P.S. There's another Knight is in the works!!)

Thank you so much! More is on the way!

Thank you Ian! I'm glad this video provided some tips and techniques! Theres plenty more content to come.

Thank you Cole! Very happy to see the video motivated you! I'm certain yours will come out great in the end. I'd love to see the outcome someday!

Thank you Xeno! I hope you enjoyed the show.

Hope you enjoyed the show!

Thank you Laurence, that comment is very heart warming! No need to hope, there is ALOT more to come! Unfortunately they take time... I am working on multiple projects simultaneously so, if all goes to plan I'll be releasing in chunks. This way I can then start working on another mammoth of a project like this one!

Thank you so much! I hope you enjoyed the show!

Thank you Gary! Means a lot to read such a comment! I'm glad you found us and I sure hope some of the techniques prove useful! Would love to see the end result.

Hi Lars! Thank you for the comment! Please by all means "steal" away :) If there's any aspects you'd like to explore let me know and I can see if I can put something out!

Thank you so much for the kind words Firmak2! Means a lot to read this. Very happy to see this video brought some inspiration! There's plenty more to come. I'm neck deep in the next few instalments. Lots more ideas, lots more creativity to come! Glad to have you as a sub!

Thank you Gundam!

Glad you found us Russell! I hope you enjoyed this show and the rest of the channel! There's plenty more to come.

Thank you Arch! I hope you enjoyed the show!

Thank you so much! This is the first video to bring the channel into life, but do not worry, there is alot more coming with some great projects underway!

Thank you Bas! Its been an insanely long process! I never intended the video to be nearly 1hr long... But there was just... so... much! I'm glad you enjoyed it.

@@NuHue Chapters (or however the youtube timestamp thingies are called) might help make the video a bit more managable for people when using it as a reference :) Be sure to post this on reddit to get some more visibility! you deserve it!

@@bas_6983 KZfaq aren't very clear on how they are activated, I "think" I've done what's needed to enable them, they state placing in the description will autofill the chapters but it doesn't look like its taken effect yet. But you are right! Chapters are needed here.

That fills me with joy! I do hope some parts here are useful.

@@NuHue I really enjoyed the rust and weathered copper parts once I've finished my necron army I think I'm going to tackle a some chaos and try some of the techniques here

@@jimmckenzie960 Once you start weathering techniques, they become highly addictive!

Hopefully something useful can be used from this video!

The mighty algo has turned his favour to me! Very happy to see you here! Hope you enjoyed the show.

Thank you Vanilla! Hope you enjoyed the show!

@@NuHue the production quality was phenomenal

@@vanillaicecream5226 I actually delayed releasing the video because I panicked about the inadequate production value! This comment is very heart warming to read.

liked and subbed obviously btw, just saw you were relatively new so gl with the channel dude

Thank you Tatooine! There can never be enough rust! It would of been easier if it where metal. Then I could just leave it outside for a few weeks and be done with it!

I sure did try!

Thank you Reimerh, I hope you enjoyed the show! I'm aware of the volume issue, unfortunately it was an issue with KZfaq after the uploading took place.

Thank you so much! Glad the video was worthy of your time!

Thank you LD!

Thank you Mr Ziv! The last rust is Dirty Down, I wanted to go for a "balls to the wall" rust. I haven't seen or heard of that stuff before, but I've just found it online and ordered a load! So expect it to make an appearance soon!

@@NuHue glad to help!

First video! I wanted to take the time and make a video which was 110%, just to show the world what this channel is capable of. I have to admit, I didn't expect the reception I've had so far! It's incredibly heart warming.

@@NuHue your definately off to a flyer bud,your work is definately worthy of the long format too. It was good that you explained how some of the techniques you used dont cross over to smaller scale figures too,its things like that which save a lot of frustration for a lot of us!! Lol! Looking forward to seeing plenty more!

@@mrphucyoo8281 I certainly did enjoy creating the longer format of video! It is a double edged sword though, for example this video took me 3 months to create and produce and not that many people like to "engage" in the longer videos... This wont discourage me from making them.

Thank you for the kind words! I hope the show was worth your time! I have plenty, and I mean plenty of ideas for lengthy project series which hopefully encompasses a lot of what our hobby is. Gaahhh! Those god damn English, spelling English words! I'll do better next time, I promise.

That is an interesting thought! For the next Knight, I had the thought of making a compression mould with the 3D printer to do chains, skulls, animal bits and human remains!

If you are trying to achieve some rust, but not as heavily then you can just keep scrubbing and removing more and more until its just in the deeper recesses. Then simply reapply Lead belcher with the same technique used with the first colour layer on the skeleton. Use the large drybrush and dampen it with the sponge. Once you have that layer down, just a quick drybrushing of Stormhost silver to catch the raised areas.

Thank you Necro! Means alot to see your comment! There certainly will be more Knights in the future! I have a large project series which will involve Knights of various factions! So you might be right. The end credits are a hint at what's next to come! Again I have ALOT of project series in mind which I hope blows peoples minds. As a sidenote, I have made one Death Guard themed Knight before and I have given some sneak shots of it over on the FaceBook group, (Dont worry there will be more!) But take a quick look! facebook.com/NuHueMiniatures

Thank you! I hope some parts where helpful! Yes, I am aware of the quieter audio, unfortunately the audio got butchered by KZfaq during the uploading process... I had attempted multiple times in re-uploading and resolving the issue but every time KZfaq would butcher the video quality or the audio! This upload was the happy medium which in its self took over 17 hours to process each attempt! For the future, I may increase the audio majorly in anticipation of KZfaq butchering it.

@@NuHue Jeez, 17 hours is no short feat! Either way, it's a fantastic model, need to figure out whether I can apply it well enough to an Armiger conversion I've done.

@@splatboy1408 17 hours is just the uploading! the recording and painting is another story... You certainly can! The armiger's aren't far off a Knight. I will be doing an Armiger conversion in the future and I'll certainly be going through all the weathering on those!

Thank you for the kind words! Yes the audio unfortunately got butchered by KZfaq when uploading... The video took over 17 hours to process and it took 3 attempts, hopefully it wont be an issue with future releases.

@@NuHue Hopefully buddy! KZfaq can be fickle!

Thank you Christian! The base wasn't of importance, I had spent so much time on the model, I just wanted to get it done! The base csn always be altered. As for the rust, I like to combine both, I wanted to exaggerate the trim and the easiest way was with Dirty down, it was a bit of a learning curve and still is!

Thank you Nicholas! Yes the colour scheme is perfectly possible without an airbrush! The technique would be the same way where I had done the NMM skeleton, use a large short haired brush, keep it lightly wet with a sponge and stipple/dab the paint layers on. You will need to take the time to build up nice gradual layers. If you are going to go as far as using the rusting effects here then this will help with hiding any issues you might run in to. As for painting the skeleton TMM, if you had based with Leadbelcher then you can just simply drybrush over again with Leadbelcher and highlight with Stormhost Silver for the edges. For the eyes, I firstly paint these black/brown, then thinly glaze over the colour you are attempting. if you take a look at 54:41, the top lense was painted black, glazed brown, then glazed red, then glazed orange, to finish I had used white to give the lenses the light glint. For the Combustor, base it black, use a white wash to sink into the recesses and then wash over the colour you want it to be! Keep the glazes thin so you don't get any pooling. I must stress though, the airbrush does speed up the process ten-fold!

Silver doesn't rust like iron, but it does tarnish or corrode with black silver oxide. I would look up old silver ware for inspiration

Thank you for the kind words! It depends on quite a few things, I'll try my best to rationalise them in a single comment! Firstly, it depends what material (Colour) you are having the trim, if its just a basic, paint over ceramic then the streaking rust will do perfectly (Do as much as you feel fit!) If it is a metal, for example the Abominant here had Iron trim and I wanted to achieve a completely, rust infected pieces all over. Contrasted against the White it does make it stand out, which was intended. If the material reference for the trim is that they are the metallic Silver, then Silver doesn't rust, it tarnishes and becomes dull, but if the armour panels themselves are a source of rust then streaking rust will bleed onto them! However, if your just colouring them silver and the material reference is that they are just metal, then rust away as much as you like! Because rust is more of the red hue it does contrast very well against green, even if you are going for a more metallic basing on the trim. As for purple, I'd lean towards a copper trim and oxiding it slightly and then performing a rusting streak effect which is bleeding over the edge from the armour panels themselves. For reference, I have painted other knights, bright green, dark green, Khaki green, blue/green and blue with all the same amount of heavy rusting. The only variation between them was just adding a more black rust effect as the paint gets darker. (With any colour, you will end up reaching a bright enough point where the rust will always show and that's where the detail captures your attention!) I do plan on doing a Khorne inspired Knight build soon, it will be very bloody, very Red-dy and very rusty!

@@NuHue wow, thank you for the detailed explanation. I was looking what other videos you did, only to see this was your first one. Great editing, cameras and explanations for your very first try! I'm looking forward to more

@@KawaiiAzusa You are most welcome! This is the very first video, it was a meaty one, something to really push the boundaries and show people what to expect from the channel. There will be a lot more coming.

Thank you! Yes I'll be doing a much more in depth video on the Dirty down that was used here.

Thank you for the comment! It depends on how thick you make the greenstuff, there are some parts on this cloak which are as thin as paper! However the durability of it is surprisingly good, once its cured, it is flexible and perfectly fine to being moved around within reason. If you are worried about its durability you can always go a little thicker with the contact points and "load bearing parts" but greenStuff is quite durable!

@@NuHue Thank you for the answer. I always wanted to try the GS and your result is so great that I wanna try it out on my next Big Boy

@@csabipapo give it a try! Hopefully something in this video was worthwhile. I am currently setting up a Discord where we can showcase our work and for an opportunity for me to see our communities work too! So I'd love to see what you create.

Never feel bad! If your Knights are put together it isn't too difficult to take the armour panels back off. If you used plastic glue, you can use Tamia extra thin to reactive the glue joins!

Thank you!

Thank you Mr Tpimms! Without a 3D printer, your best bet is to ask someone who does. But! How about using two bottle tops reversed and stuck to each other, then using cocktail sticks as pistons? To fill in the torso ball, you could either use a similar shape pingpong ball cut in half?

@@NuHue thanks for the speedy reply! That’s a great suggestion, loved seeing you adapt the possibility of the legs, will 100% be giving that a go as it greatly increases the immersion and thematic of each model! Looking forward to what comes next!

@@MrTpimms Very welcome! Always happy to engage in any way possible. More is on the way!

@@NuHue nice one! Love the engagement and the encouragement this video has given me to try the rust techniques, they all built on each other and that’s awesome! With the posing of the legs was it just a case of choosing the angle and then setting with Tamiya extra thin?

@@MrTpimms Give the rust a try! Thats it, just glue the pieces back together. Obviously ensuring there is enough plastic contacting so the glue can fuse the pieces together.

Thank you David! Which part/Time stamp are you referring to?(Just to make sure I give you the correct response!)

@@NuHueYes, sorry, I specify. My question concerns the part where you airbrush the Knight's bone with the pigment, after painting metal and before brushing with a big brush. Minute 13:56.

@@davidtesta4919 Ah! This paint is already suspended in a medium, once it evaporates it leaves just the pigments behind. It is fantastic stuff! Its AK Interactives Crusted Rust Deposits. With the airbrush it goes on incredibly smooth and evaporates quickly!

@@NuHue thanks a lot for the information 🙏🏻

Glad I could help! I hope you enjoyed the show.

Haha! I think I've used a lot of the Abteilungs oils throughout all the videos I've uploaded! I really, really like them!

@@NuHue I’m ordering 5 on payday. Do you have top 5 you could recommend? I was thinking of burnt umber, black, engine grease, sepia. I have quite a few options for rust that I’m happy with for now so not going to buy their rust colours yet. Mainly for painting over silver metallics to give some shadow and definition as well as for more weathering options. I am painting Orks currently.

Hello! No not at all, there's no need to dilute white spirit. Wear protective gloves so the spirits don't leech into the skin. My only caution, don't press the model with force when using white spirit. Because it can damage the paint. Just be gentle. Have fun!!

@@NuHue thank you! I have another question. how do you know where the light are when painting? ( can the model be semi assemble for picture - for highlight reference) sorry this is my first big model do the rust effect take away too much of the paint work?

@@phamhoangthong4815 Very welcome! So i partially sub build any model and its dependant on getting clear and clean access to certain areas. As for getting the right lighting then I would test fit the parts so I can visualise how it would look. As for knowing where the light comes from, it depends which direction you are imagining the light, (my go to is the top right side downwards) As for how it affects the shapes of the model, this can be more complex. but generally, you want to keep all the highlights to the most centre of the shape, this includes the entire overall shape and not just a simple circle on everything!. The rust effects would only remove the paint if you are too aggressive and you dont clear the rust off enough, but its your preference on how the rusts effects the paintwork underneath.

@@NuHue thank you so much, but the rust style fit with any schemes? I plan to have my Chaos knight with red brown (burgundy?) with the blue spirit light like its from tzeentch

@@phamhoangthong4815 That really would depend if you like the look! The effect will mostly work but you may need to play around with it to find your desired effects.

Just a black matt from Amazon! It's an A2 size. If you search black cutting matt, you will find it.

Thank you!

Hi Erik, that's a good question! I use Winsor & Newton Galeria Matt Varnish, simply because it's a good quality varnish and it comes in a large 250ml bottle which will last you a life time! However I have used Citadels 'Ard Coat before and it went down just fine! Make sure the varnish is fully dried before moving on. As long as the streaking rust's medium has evaporated (partially dried) then you wont experience any reactive issues with varnishing. If however, there are still some undried white spirits (mineral spirits) still on the model, then the varnish wont adhere and may pool in clumps. I haven't had this happen to myself!

@@NuHue It's funny that we use exactly yhe same stuff, i just use winsor oils instead as absolun or what theyr called. Thanks for the knowledge about the varnish. I've been afraid of ruining any project with a bad layer of varnish you know.

I was the same the first time round. I mostly apply my varnish straight through an airbrush, just for ease of use and an even coverage. But as long as you need the varnish smooth and thin, you will be hard pressed to ruin it! If you are coating by brush then you can mix the varnish with 1-1 medium or water, it may take an extra coat but that way, you are ensuring a thinner and smoother coating.

@@NuHue I'm using a airbrush, the only time there been any problems with the varnish for me yet is crackling after applying over airbrushed liquitex inks. For some reason you need to wait alot longer than dry to the touc before varnish. Thats why i thought enamels would do the same.

@@eriksterlund Ah yes! That cracking would be due to the ink drying out and taking the moisture from the varnish!

Thanks DoktoR! You me both, its hard to like the 'eavy metal style... To me it just seems slightly cartoonish? The rust, mostly for the rule of cool! Without weathering in some way its not easy to get the image of age, decay or just simply not being looked after. But none the less, I hope you enjoyed the show!

@@NuHue exactly cartoonis... Far from this univers would look like. Yeahh the rule of cool! ;) I will be painting my first 40k véhicules in the comming weeks, they might have a bit of rust 😉

@@DoktoRVoLoXGuitars go all out and do a full top to bottom rusted machine that isnt fit for war!

@@NuHue 🤣🤣🤣 sorry mate l'm to much rationalist for that, but don't worry it will be grim, with dust, mud, oil, blood and a bit of rust😉

Shhhhh! It's a new movie from Guy Ritchie!

It might be the speed of the video that's confusing it. After putting the Streaking Rust down, its then saturated with the white spirits, this is to reactivate the top layer, the brush is then used to scratch the top layer exposing small streaks to different degrees, the cotton bud is then used again to re-saturate the area and allowing the spirit to either drag the pigments down and away (following the exposing brush strokes). I mentioned using a fresh new clean cotton bud, a fresh new cotton bud will remove areas completely which you can see in the video (Good visual of this is on the top carapace at 40:12) , this allows the spirits to then spread the pigments into the cleaner areas to give the edges of the streaks space to blend out. However, if you continue to use the same, dirty cotton bud, then it doesn't remove the areas completely, you can use the dirty cotton bud still to manipulate the spirits instead. You may notice, some aspects I'm dabbing the cotton bud, some areas in brushing with the cotton bud. Both have different effects!

@@NuHue Awesome, I'll try that, thanks! been having trouble using streaking grime and rust streaks to get the effect I want :)

@@NuHue What kind of weathering brush are you using? Does it have hard or soft bristles?

It can be a bit of a learning curve! The trick it to try and do as little as possible! Then layer.

Ideally, a thicker brush. Thicker tends to have less bristles which gives a nice scratched surface.

Jump over onto our Discord! (Links on the channel).

@@NuHue sorry mate as you know I’m new here 🤣

@@NuHue consider it done!

Hi Bok, You don't need to dilute the Streaking Grime. Straight out the bottle is fine. Just be careful not to swamp the model!

@@NuHue Is there a recommended Vallejo or AK for the red primer?

There's a reason why I wear overly baggy clothes. Keeps that dark side a secret!

I may need another year to finish the poor Primarch!! He "May" make an appearance shortly ;)

Thank you Twist! Yes I am aware, unfortunately this is KZfaq's fault. Hopefully I can mitigate it for the future!

@@NuHue Let's hope! Looking forward to your next video.

@@DasFork You and me both! Damn KZfaq can be a nightmare, the next video will be here very soon!

LOL! This takes top place.

Thank you, quick!! Get your tetanus shot so you don't miss the next video!

Thank you! Yes for the overall the enamel is a better choice for the gritty effect, it dries faster and looks dry! You can thin down enamels with turpentine too!

Feel free to read the pinned comment!

Thank you! I hope you could at least enjoy the video! Yes I'm aware of the audio, unfortunately it was out of my control due to KZfaq butchering the video during its uploading process. Next time I'll increase the audio higher in anticipation of KZfaq doing its antics.

Thank you! Hope you enjoyed the show!

@@NuHue Sure did! I have a Knight Abominant kit _literally_ sitting on the couch behind me... 😉

@@fl00d69 Get stuck in!! I do also have another Abominant on the bench waiting to be built.

@@NuHue What's your plan for the paint job this time around?

@@fl00d69 Tough choice! It really depends on how I build it. I'm kind of feeling maybe a purple, but I'm not sure!