I misspoke on that and just noticed it yesterday. 🙄 I put a note in the comments. Hopefully, at the end when I talk about the feature it makes since.

@@ChrisRiley no worries such things happen not a big deal, we love your work and the effort you put in these videos, keep up the good work 👍🏼👍🏼

I have an Ender-3 with a SKR mini E3 v2.0, so in this case I can follow the 1st process you describe (14:10 - 16:40)? I have to disconnect also the z-endstop? Do you think that I can add g34 in cura slicer at the beginning of every printing? Yours video are always so helpful!!! Many many thanks...

@@mitsre Yes, you should be able to set this up. You will have to flash Marlin I am guessing. Leave you Z endstop connected. Yes, just add the G34 in your start gcode.

I know im asking the wrong place but does anybody know of a method to get back into an Instagram account? I stupidly lost the login password. I would love any tips you can give me

Thanks!

That is awesome! Thanks for watching

Glad you think so!

Thank you!

Thanks! Will do!

Glad you enjoyed it!

Glad it helped!

Thanks 👍

Thank you, that's great!

Glad you enjoyed it

Wow, thanks!

Glad I could help!

Thank you kindly!

Awesome, thank you!

Great! Thanks for watching

Glad I could help

Thanks for watching!

Glad you liked it!

I'm so glad. We're really proud of our work. Thank you

Glad I could help

Glad it was helpful!

Awesome, thank you!

Glad you enjoyed it

Glad it was helpful!

Yep, I have had a few belt Z printers over the years, Voron has kind of brought them back.

Wow, thanks a lot man!

I appreciate that!

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you!

I’m newbie in 3D,and I just bought makeblock mcreat printer.what’s your opinion about this machine!!can you make one review on makeblock mcreat printer!!?

@@kishorsoni2040 I don't know that printer, I will have to check it out.

Thanks!

Thanks 👍

Great! Good luck with your projects!

Glad I could help!

I love it when a plan comes together! Thank you

Glad you enjoyed it

You're welcome! Thanks for watching

I completely understand and feel your pain. Thank you for watching.

I agree. The breakout boards run them in parallel. It is possible to run them in series. I've done that when I needed more current but it is not commonly done.

After looking around there are some ticky configs out there, thinking about collecting a bunch of them and doing a recap video.

I agree with @rogernettles6719, I think the splitter cable is connected in parallel. Also if the motors were in series you should increase the Voltage and not the current. Nevertheless, it is just a common confusion. Nice work @EdTannenbaum! Thanks for sharing your deep knowledge!

Thanks! 😁

Glad it was helpful!

I love the Drum Roll .. :)

Yay! Thank you!

Thanks Greg.

🙂👍

Great to hear! Thanks for your comment.

That's great news! Thanks

Interesting.

Glad to hear it, I hope to get to close loop steppers sometime soon.

Thanks Mark, that's a good question, we might be able to work that out.

Thanks! I am not sure if the stock board has another endstop port. The second endstop wouldn't do much good without a second Z motor.

Yes, another video, I am still trying to find a printer that is will work well on. It's kind of picky.

Great suggestion!

👍

I don't exactly remember what I was referring to, but my guess is I was talking about Z offset. You are setting the offset relative to z MIN.

I know, I botched this, I am thinking about making a follow up video on it.

You bet! Hmmm, the only thing I can think of is the Z size thinks it's bigger than it actually is. So it has to come down further than it thinks. Try adjusting that setting.

No need to disconnect your Z endstop. Yes, you can add the G34 to your start gcode. You may need to flash marlin to use it.

Thanks! No bltouch, but we touched on Marlin features. :)

I think it's just how I have the sound setup for videos. And how much coffee I have had.

A lot of printers use the "skipping step" method. It's not actually physically skipping, so i think the harm it might do would be very minimal.

They are parallel, for some reason when I made this video I was having a bad day and got my words mixed up. :)

That's what I would recommend something that you can confirm the gantry is all the way up and level. Maybe even a couple of washers on top of you Z nut as a test.

On that board it's going to be hard to get this working. To make it useful you would need 2 different Z drivers. You are correct, if the drivers are standalone you can't adjust the current.

Yes, it's the Big Brain system. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jJqlY7ifraqdhKs.html

If you have a probe it can.

Check out Z tilt www.klipper3d.org/G-Codes.html#z_tilt

Yes they are. Only the SKR Pro (and i think SKR GTR too) dual-Z plugs are wired in series, rest is parallel.

That's funny, you are right, I thought they would have stuck with the old RAMPS method, but they did not.

Question about this connection, which may be address in the 1.3 segment, sry if it is. So I have the 1.4 (regular), when I connect my (2) Z motors to their ZAM and ZBM connections, will I/can I run the ZBM (I think that's going to be my 2nd added Z lead+motor) off of the E1 driver? I've got 1 more TMC2209 and was wondering if I need to put that in the 5th driver slot (which I think is E1). Then in Marlin, do I still want to uncomment Z2 when defining the driver type? No endstops on Z, I just use a bltouch.

@@miremaker Yes you can, just move the motor to E1 and uncomment Z2.

@@ChrisRiley Ok, so my 4 pin motor connection for my 2nd Z axis goes in E1 instead of ZMB? Will it still run in parallel with my original Z?

I wish I knew how to keep them from drifting like that. I am not really sure what the heat does to them.

@@ChrisRiley I looked further into it today and it seems, that there was (and is?) an issue with the fade height being enabled... I played with it, so far I added M420 Z0 (disable fade height) before the bed leveling sequence. I also added the M420 Z{whatever} (enable fade height) into my start gcode after i retrieve the mesh info. So far, after messing around with short prints, i did not need to change my z offset. But I want to see it work after the probe being over the heated bed for longer periods. Maybe you can try so we can cross check? Thanks for your reply! :)

@@beedee95 I will see if I can run a test.

The 2 aren't tided together. The G34 is just a guess on how level you X is to your bed. You will then have to let UBL pick up the slack from there. I would G34 first.

Yes, Tr8-2's are really hard to backfeed.

You are correct, I put out an update and add something to the comments.

@@ChrisRiley Electrically speaking, breakout splitter or by cable extension, all connections to a single driver are parallel.

I wouldn't, I would want as much stability left and right as I could get.

I think it is in there now, if not it should be soon.

@@ChrisRiley Thank you for the encouragement. Waiting on my replacement controller board to try it out.

Hey, yes, you can use the probe pins but you will have to move the wires around. MT_DET would be easier, if you're not using it as it is wired the same as the endstops. Check pinout: github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-TinyBee/blob/main/hardware/MKS%20TinyBee%20V1.0_003/MKS%20TinyBee%20V1.0_003%20PIN.pdf You want to use pin 2 if using the probe/servo pin. Change this in configuration_adv.h //#define Z_MULTI_ENDSTOPS // Other Z axes have their own endstops #if ENABLED(Z_MULTI_ENDSTOPS) //#define Z2_STOP_PIN X_MAX_PIN // Z2 endstop pin override To this: #define Z_MULTI_ENDSTOPS // Other Z axes have their own endstops #if ENABLED(Z_MULTI_ENDSTOPS) #define Z2_STOP_PIN 2 // Z2 endstop pin override

This is great thanks I'll try your suggestions in due course Thanks for your attention😊@@ChrisRiley

I never tell! ;) Thanks for watching

Thanks for your insight!

Hey Jon, so only thing I can think of is the Z2 settings in configuration_adv.h is set to a different step rate then the Z motor is. Try clearing eeprom as well. M502 then M500.

Thanks! In series the current will be the same and these motors are current driven, the down side would be voltage drop, which we don't have to worry about here. Parallel , the voltage is the same, the total current is the sum of the currents flowing through each component. To answer your question, they both get 1 amp.

It's a bit more complicated. If the motors are wired in series, then the current path is through a winding on the first motor and then a winding on the second motor, so those currents are equal to the current set by your software. If the motors are in parallel, then the there are two current paths, and the regulated current splits between them. So you would think that the series connection is better. However, in the series connection, each motor sees only half of the available voltage. Why would that matter if the driver is controlling current, and manages to achieve that current? Because the driver strategy is to apply full available voltage at the beginning of a step in order to raise the current as fast as possible to "overcome" the winding's inductance. It then uses high-frequency PWM to adjust the current to the set value. If only half the voltage is available, then the initial current ramp is only half as fast. So that decreases the rate at which torque builds at the beginning of the step, and ultimately reduces the maximum reliable stepping speed. (Another way of saying the same thing is that connecting the motors in series doubles the inductance that the driver is trying to drive with the same PSU voltage.) For that reason, if you want the two motors to achieve the same torque and speed, you should connect them in parallel and double the current setting, which may or may not be available from your driver. However, if you're adding a second Z motor to what was previously a single Z setup, then in your new setup each motor has only half the load compared to the single motor setup. (And that load is composed of two components: overcoming momentum to change the speed of the mechanism, and then ongoing overcoming of friction or raising against gravity). So, noting the half-load for each motor, you could connect in parallel and just let each motor get half the current, or in series and they get half the maximum voltage. In parallel you'll get the rapid initial current ramp and initial increase in torque, but followed by half of the ongoing torque (within that step). In series you'll get half the initial rate of increase of torque, followed by the full ongoing torque (again, per step, and compared to single motor). It's not clear which would be the better tradeoff.

The bracket is in this project. www.printables.com/model/49529-prusa-lack-enclosure-v2-modded-for-the-ender-3

@ChrisRiley Thank You :)

Yes, currently 2130's, 2209's and for larger motors 5160's and 5161's.

I currently run a SKR 1.3 with Marlin 2.0.7.2

@@ChrisRiley Thanks. I have some problem , but solve it. In platformio.ini I have bad env setting .. from atmega2560 change to rambo . Your videa are super. Step by step is good for all not only for beginner .. best regards.

Great point.

@@ChrisRiley I have a frankenstein CR10 using this one : www.thingiverse.com/thing:2829855

@@lowellhouser7731 Sweet! Thanks for the link.

You can change up what spots it uses to probe, there is a map in configuration_adv.h with your options, just not sure how that would work for Y.

That is about the easier thing to do, some printers create parts that ride on the Z nut for this purpose.

@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris... finally I managed to use the two Z steppers method much easier than expected

Hey, i'm not sure what part you are talking about, can you give me a time stamp where you see it?

Thanks for the tip!

I see you have gone another direction, but yes, in 2.1 the option names have changed a bit.

Thanks!

They still show it on github, github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h line 3384.

@@ChrisRiley Hmm .... Well that is strange indeed. I downloaded my Marlin Code from the exact same place. I wonder why none of mine have it in it. In fact the configuration_adv.h for most of my builds end at line 3095 with the exception of my BTT GTR which I use a custom Branch for. I just re-downloaded it and it is indeed in there so I am a bit perplexed. I basically start my builds from scratch using the default config files that is in it and not from the examples or what is now in the import configuration download. Oh well. At least I got it all straighten out now. Thanks for the help. Now I just have to go through my current build to copy the settings and insert them into my new downloaded version. Also not sure if I will end up using the Mechanical Gantry Calibration in the end as I just purchased more TMC2209 to try the 2 driver method. I will have to decide which version I like. :)

Yes, there are a lot of belt Z machines out there. That is a whole different animal I will touch on in another video.

@@ChrisRiley Wow, I am looking forward for that video. Thanks a lot, keep making such great videos! //R

Hey Fred, sounds like there is a retraction in there that is too far. I would have to see that piece of gcode to see what is up.

@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris, I will have a look at my retraction settings, but unfortunately everything is on hold for now because my MB a BTT SKR 1.4 has packed in, I had a failed print yesterday because the thermal runaway protection kicked in and stopped the print. From then on, any attempt to pre-heat the bed causes Marlin to request a reset, the temp display will not rise above 8 degrees. I thought it must be a faulty bed thermistor, but after carrying out some tests with my multimeter on the thermistor and then the wiring, everything checked out OK, so I ordered a new MB which will arrive today. Hey-ho, the joys of 3D printing😢. I will let you know the outcome when I have fitted the new SKR 1.4, this may be of interest to other viewers of this post.

@@m0gga Good Luck Fred, keep us posted.

@@ChrisRiley The MB is fitted now and the printer is up and running again, I still need to have a look at those retraction settings but I am in the middle of a twenty hour print job at the moment so that will have to wait for now, thanks again for your help so far.

@@ChrisRiley Well I found the problem with retraction, it was a 4.5mm retraction in my Cura start gcode, all is working fine now, thanks for pointing me in the right direction 👌

It's in here. www.printables.com/model/49529-prusa-lack-enclosure-v2-modded-for-the-ender-3/files

Hmmm...maybe, I think you could probably find a right mix of config for that in Marlin.

I'll see what I can do. Thanks for watching

It is here. www.prusaprinters.org/prints/49529-prusa-lack-enclosure-v2-modded-for-the-ender-3/files

I think slicer is probably still the best/safest.

@@ChrisRiley Thanks, will do.

I flipped through the video, not sure the STL you are talking about.

Thank you!

Hmmm...in 2.0.7.2 it is on line 3384

@@ChrisRiley ?? we are suppose to be on the same 2.0.7.2, but mine is at line 3455

@@jtl789456123 hmmm

Hi Chris problem sorted I downloaded the separate configeration

Sorry. Configuration files and used the Creality Ender 3 example folder

My wife likes to give me a thumbs down every once in a while to keep me humble. She must have forgotten. 😉 Thanks for watching