Bench testing alternator after repair, before installing back to my car, Volvo 940.
Пікірлер: 28
@bitizieharoldjoelgami853 Жыл бұрын
Thank you for this : - it has methodolody - it has clarity - it is very understandable. At last i understand the alternater bunch test and moreover why the lamp goes off. I am greatful for your work.
@robertdeptula2003 Жыл бұрын
You are welcome
@inpact_officialclan49512 жыл бұрын
awesome. thank you for the informative video! goodluck on 5k subs
@robertdeptula20032 жыл бұрын
Thanks
@airjack78899 ай бұрын
if the voltage regulator is malfunctioning , intermittent will it shut off the alternator causing the battery to drain ?
@fsrodeo81 Жыл бұрын
Very well done
@kelseydulaney3118 Жыл бұрын
I don’t get the purpose of the resistor (bulb) on the d+ line other than diagnostic purposes. Seems to work fine on my old tractor using a 4” terminal to terminal jumper wire.
@jaitchy Жыл бұрын
Great explanation and video. Thank you very much.
@robertdeptula2003 Жыл бұрын
You are welcome
@andys2856 Жыл бұрын
So you connect -ve battery to com on multimeter?
@robertdeptula2003 Жыл бұрын
Battery negative to COM on the multimeter.
@claudiosantana3320 Жыл бұрын
Excellent
@schympanze Жыл бұрын
Hi. Can you advise me if I have a two-pin alternator? To which outlet should I connect the light bulb? Well thank you
@robertdeptula2003 Жыл бұрын
What is the model or part number?
@schympanze Жыл бұрын
@@robertdeptula2003 Fron nissan maxima qx Alternator nr 11.1357 I think I already have it connected correctly, but I can't spin the alternator at a sufficient speed. the alternator has a lot of resistance when turning, I can't spin it with a classic drill. it is normal?
@robertdeptula2003 Жыл бұрын
Ball bearings? Does the pulley spin freely when no electrical connections are made?
@schympanze Жыл бұрын
@@robertdeptula2003 So I already tested it with such a powerful drill. I reached 14.3V I put new bearings. It was just about a stronger drill. Thank you for your cooperation. Good luck
@vincenzopatola78545 ай бұрын
Salve,la lampadina da quanti w deve essere? grazie in anticipo
@robertdeptula20035 ай бұрын
To była 5 watowa żarówka. Powodzenia!
@Validaty9 ай бұрын
🎉👍🏼👍🏼
@robertmccully2792Ай бұрын
Why is it called D and not A?
@robertdeptula2003Ай бұрын
Idk
@user-ki3kx8gh3i8 ай бұрын
Dash alternator indicator does not go out. When bench testing alternator inside the vehicle, the bulb I rigged to D+ goes out when I crank the alternator with a drill and voltage increases by about .5. When I remove the dash indicator connector from the alternator, the dash ALT indicator does out, but again, not when I turn engine over or drive the alternator with a drill. ????? I feel like I am in the twilight zone.
@robertdeptula20038 ай бұрын
Check diodes and voltage regulator.
@user-ki3kx8gh3i8 ай бұрын
@@robertdeptula2003 Thanks. The conundrum I have is that my test bulb goes out but the dash light does not. They are each wired the same, powered through ignition with negative going to the D+ on alternator. This means, in theory, that either both bulbs work or both do not work. Presently, my test bulb works, but the dash does not. This is the case with two different alternators, both of which are generating excess of 12 volts and turning off my test bulb. Both also fail to make the dash go out. It cannot be grounded someplace, because when I remove the connector from d+ BOTH my test bulb and dash bulb go out.
@patriciuss57437 ай бұрын
There must be something different between your rigged bulb circuit and dash light. My only guess is that you are getting sufficient power from the bulb you rigged but not from the dash. Test voltage in both, if there is a significant difference, then the problem is your dash circuit. Even if there is not a significant difference, connect BOTH to D+. If they both then go out, the problem is your dash circuit. If this is the case, you can probably do a work around by powering D+ by alternative means. Make sure there is a load (your rigged light may suffice just fine) Your dash light should then operate as it should.
@onetransmission78712 ай бұрын
To bench test you need a carbon pile load and a minimum of 5 hp to dpin it. You're eating too many Crabbie Patties.
@daviderickennedy21942 ай бұрын
Actually this is somewhat incorrect, not been like this in many decades. D+ used to be used this way a long time ago as you said, now days on modern alternators d+ is just a "logic High", not actual "power" needed to D+ anymore. Because no one uses 20mA bulbs anymore. The "Logic High" now powers on an alternator through an LED (few mA or a bulb so it will work on modern cars. In other words the alternator gets it's d+ single and then "powers" d+ through B+. Yes, alternators have gone digital too.