Was about to give up hope working on my Long 2460 that wouldn't charge even when I replaced the alternator - came across this videos and realized that my charging light had simply blown, so the field wasn't getting energized. Thanks so much for the tip!!!

Just exactly what you did with the small idiot light was what I did just a couple days ago. Light stayed on when running I then touched the #1 wire with 12 volts power and the light stayed off while running. I'm hoping to find the old time Idiot light setup from the 1960 1975 erra tractor.I think my old Ford 4000 4 cylinder has an Idiot light. But if I don't have an Idiot light I'll just straight wire the #1 alternator post to the ign "on" side of the ignition Only giving 12 volts when ignition is turned on..... GREAT video.....

You're the only one that solved my problem I had an alternator on there for like 6 months running good and I put anything for a idiot light all of a sudden now I can't rev it up and kick my alternator in and I can't find a problem until I read your video you solve my problem

Cool tip on pre-wrapping your solder joint with a wire strand! I will remember that for my next wiring project. Nice video!

Great, man! Bought a 2400B (but gasoline) without very thorough inspection...only to discover that alternator "Batt" terminal is wired to an open (wire is broken about 12 inches up)...and have been scratching my head. The 2050 looks remarkably similar, and I believe I also have a 10SI alternator. A friend posted your vid on the forum from which I sought some advice...and it has been a blessing. Thanks again.

Good video. If you had a gas tractor ( or LPG), you would have to add a diode in the exciter circuit otherwise you could not shut the engine off because the alternator would still provide 12 V. to the ignition coil even with the key turned off.

Thank you for the video. I liked it. Thank you to the inventor of the GM 3 wire alternator.

your video was very informative in many ways to me . It helped me fix my fathers John Deere . thanks so much for info and taking your time out to do so.

thanks allot this explained why my alternator in my 1984 Oldsmobile cutlass wouldn't turn on. i cant believe i had to change the bulb on my gauges to make my alternator work

i just converted my MF 165 from generator to a 3 wire alternator & this video really helped me out!! thanks man

This helped me out with my 6610, thank you!

I put a 10 ohm 10watt resistor in parallel with the idiot light to the F terminal in both gas and diesel applications. that provides plenty of start current but also takes some of the stress off the indicator lamp and even if the lamp is gone the resistor will still make it start. I did one on an old bus that did not have a neutral in the transmission used a door bell button and wire to hook up from battery + to F. they would start the bus and momentary push button to start alternator. once the charging starts it keeps on going.

Thank you so much I've been trying to figure out why my battery is always draining and it's because I don't have anything to excite my alternator. So thank you you save me a ton of head ache

Another thing you can do is install a volt meter in the dash that will show 13.8 volts if the alternator is charging.

Someplace under the dash there should be a wire would resister in a ceramic housing. That resistor is wired in series with the wire from the #1 terminal to the run position of the key switch. There is probably a junction block where the actual connection is made rather than the switch. The original value of the resistor was 100 ohms but it was change to 25 or less to allow the alternator to start charging without reving the engine as much. If you use a light bulb just wire a resistor in parallel with it. It will cause the bulb to be a bit dimmer but will allow more current to flow to excite the filed circuit in the alternator. It will also allow the alternator to work if the bulb burns out. The only problem with running the wire direct from the key switch to the alternator on your diesel is that if you should ever lose continuity between the battery and the battery terminal in the alternator the full charging amperage will flow back through the #1 terminal and most likely take out the diode trio in the alternator and possibly damage the wiring on the tractor.

Hi , awesome video ! What size fusible link on the battery for that set up ... or .... fuses for the fuse box ? Please let me know .... thanks

I appreciate you sharing. This has been very helpful.

I took a 10SI alternator apart that had a resistor between the power leg off the "Diode Trio and and the "ground" screw on the regulator. Isn't that supposed to simulate the "idiot light" resistance and excite the field??? I see that "SOME" of the rebuild kits for the 10SI's have the resistor and some don't. Would that be the difference between the "self exciting" Non-self exciting units??

Very helpful sir! Thank you.

when converting to the GM 1 wire = 3 you pick up a peace of resister wire 3 feet long witch give you 10 om and go from # 1 terminal to LED IDIOT LIGHT THEN TO ignition power RUN when on, and it charges, to make easier starting in cold you can stop the charging from kicking in well trying to start by adding in a 2nd oil presser switch (2 terminal in/out) to brake the circuit until it starts to reduce the load on the starter such as they have on the 230 timber Jake skidder

it needs some resistance in there somewhere. that's why the alts with the light has a resistor inside the alt.

Thankyou VM. Ford 5000 now charging again

Bruhhh ! the charging light suppose to be turned off by it self after the engine has been started.if you found a way to do that ... plz help me show how its done. thx in advance.

So If I connect terminal 1 and terminal 2 to the Batt stud on the alternator it will still work only I won't have an idiot light. correct?

Yes the alternater has to get power (excited) before it gives out power

Some of those 10SI alternators..Will work if you join the 2 terminals 1 + 2 together..

hey Richard, I had try the idiot light trick on my 190xt ALLIS Chalmers , it had a 12 volt 10 dn alternator with a external regulator , and I want to change it to a 10 si with a internal regulator. I try the light trick and it didn't go out when I started it. so I unhooked it and but it back fed to key switch .

Great video.

The gm style one and 3 wire alternators are the easiest to wire to any thing because of the internal regulator

I am love you and your business

can any one explain how does the idiot light or resister prevents feedback and can any make or model of alternator be wired with an idiot light

I'll bet that if you increased the RPM from idle on the first failed lamp test ,you would have seen the light go out and the amp meter work.

Nice job , it works.

good job

The dummy light only had 1 wire right? where do you plug it? to bypass?

o got to go rake hay I'll finish my post to u when I'm done raking.

I use 44 ohms on the conversions I do. But even 100 ohms will work. 10 is rather low and on spark ignition engines, it might permit enough back current that the engine would continue to run even with the switch off. I would not use less than 25 ohms. 10 is OK for Diesel.

is that a forklift?

You are nice number nice model Jo gadi a raha hai usme in Kitna pure gadi Mein Kitna pump Lagaya gaya hai

doesnt the bulb have to have a ground though?

Alternatively you could use a 10 ohm resister and use your original light you bought.

Bulb has to much resistance use a 194 bulb

Very Confusing !!!!

I am love you and your business