Wiring can be tough, but a kit like this and a video like this makes if possible for everyone!

I, too, got the full harness from American Autowire for our 66 C/20. I’ve just recently started to install it. Thanks for the video!

Heard about your channel through C10 Talk. I look forward to watching more. Thank you for sharing your fab work!

Excited for the channel!! Can't wait to see what's in the future!

Love this! Very informative. Can’t wait to see more👍

I love this truck! Great job!

Boom bam biscuits! I saw you on UBT channel. And glad I did. This is the stuff I live for. New Sub!

Thanks for taking the time the put this video together, it adds so much more time to the work. Also like thinking of new ways to upgrade older vehicles across all systems. Great work man! 👍PS you almost scraped it on a pebble 🤣

Absolutely love this truck!

Nice job Matt 👍

If the roads near you are like the roads near me you'll need a bit more air in the bags! Sounds awesome!👍🇨🇦

Yee Haw!!! Been waiting for some videos from you!!!!

Love the truck!

Good video, I have the same wire Harness ,crazy thing the dash cluster ,iam installing all new Gauges ,

i love this truck!😍

Cool truck brother

Very educational!!

Great work man .. couple times when the camera inverted I caught myself asking when did this truck become passenger side drive anyway love the truck..👉👍👈

Cool truck

Another good video!

Just want to say thank you for putting your video out, I have a 1964 Chevy C10 that I am updating the wire harness on as well, I just can't find a diagram that shows me how to connect the rear tail lights, you did show in your video how the wires ran from the cab to the rear but you never showed how you connected the lights, I'm stuck maybe you can help, thank you

Generally with a 10SI / 12SI alternator, the larger brown wire goes to the dash bulb, then to key B+. The bulb limits current to 1/4 amp (0.25 amp) and system voltage for sensing. The second wire is dead until changing then operates a relay for the choke heater. B+ from alt, to the relays coil to ground. Key hot during crank, run passes thru 30 & 87 to choke. Key on, engine off, you don’t want the choke opening as it will be hard to start. Thermal fan switch is in coolant and provides ground for 1 or 2 relays. A 30-40 amp fuse depending on fan, to 30 & 87 as both grounds soldered and shrink tube can bolt to core support using “Star” washers that dig into paint to metal. Internal star washer goes on first, flat washer, fan ground flat, lock washer and bolt. I use dielectric grease on every terminal inside connectors plus sides and bottom of park bulbs. This keeps them from turning green with high resistance. Both washers & dielectric grease is sold in automotive at home improvement stores, 1/2 price of parts stores. Ground parts and sensors. Use Permatex white pipe & thread sealant as it will allow connection to ground. Teflon tape won’t work! The back of the alternators case is where ground is produced. To provide a complete circuit, run a 4/0 cable from threaded hole on alternator to intake or block, don’t forget intake to cab & ground terminal at HEI distributor. It is marked as metal strap bends and terminates a coil screw. Ground from battery to inner wheel house / fender, frame, block, fame to cab underneath and since it’s a truck, provide frame to bed ground to reduce voltage drop to stop, turn, reverse and tag light! Also, tail light assembly crimp socket into housing. Time may corrode this connection. Empty the socket, wire wheel and solder this connection. Using LED’s are great at 12Vdc but real low current. This increases voltage drop problems. I drill, clean, machine screw with star washer and run separate bolt to beds frame. Any place that can get wet, drippy boots, snow, car wash and humid days when temp drops overnight as dew on grass, dew on metal terminals. Take photos is easy now, so color, face female and male, wire size is metric, circuit numbers (Since 86) GM uses same colors and circuit numbers. They are broken into cells to everything in one circuit from horns to tail lights. Location of connectors have an order as well! Engine compartment is 100 series, dash is 200, 300 at rear seats, 400 at tail lights, 500 is bumper, 600 LF door, 700 RF door and so on. So in reverse lights, battery at top, fuse to relay/fuse box, connector gray (Photo on page 203-H) cavity A13, gray w/ black, frame to tail lights. Reverse switch, relay, fuse, connector to complete circuit when in reverse. Increase’s selling value, reduces the cost of out of town repairs, include brands, P/N’s, special notes, specs, line size, torque, wrench size and bolt spec like grade 8. Include charts for references as a good tech can and fix it cheaper with info. Printed, thumb drive or CD will make any future repair easier, faster and less money. Copy receipts that have lifetime warranty, with customer service number and serial numbers that can be provided. Sorry, but after 38+ years, I have learned a couple of things. DK ASE master tech 78.

Cool Sir! I’m using the same “American Autowire kit” very cool, hey is the rear taillight on left working? I’m sure it is now.. hey cool old truck mine is a 1963 lookin good project Sir! Great to see one into the same, love the souls of the “63” had 2 Chevy’s both old “63” Nova’s or I call them Chevy Duece or Chevy 2’s.. Cool ride , hey you seem better mechanic on engines, sounds really healthy Sir! Mine has a fresh 383 Stroker from “Hot Rod Engine Company” They are out in Washington State, beware don’t get an engine from the coast to coast deal.. They said they routinely send to the East coast, they smashed my engine 2 times trying to get it to me wrapped in plastic and cardboard, ha ha.. third time owner got involved in it.. Good mechanical they provide but can’t send an engine any distances without a smash or three, ha ha.. So, finally they got another shipping company, went from “Yellow” to using company called “XPO” They got the engine to me “Un-smashed” So you Rock Sir, keep turning the wrenches! Nice sounding engine in your truck, what is it? Do tell us about it? Probably already did, I’m a late seeing to this site. “Nice truck Sir, keep-up rolling!”

1:06 Where did you get those hood supports? I have a '62 C60 that is a future project

Cool old truck, I’ve got a “63” did you have to change electrical connector ends for your truck? I’d bought the same wire kit “exactly same kit” started the wiring of mine yesterday.. it appears that many electrical connectors have to be swapped over to newer types? Thanks in advance nice truck Sir! Love the lowering you did to it.. nice ride Sir!

What steering column did you use? To be able to use the original steering wheel.

Whats the model number on the harley light? Sweet truck!

Good deal 👌

What steering column are you using ?

We're did u get your control arm for your truck

How long did it take you to wire all of it up.

The wiring kit is a lot more money than most ! Worth the extra money???

I don’t see any empty beer bottles or cigarette butts on the floor or loaded ashtrays or a can full of oily rags. Nothing! What kinda shop is this? No music either 😢.

That's low but at least it has good looking wheels

😭

Nice job! What crimper tools where you using? AAW tools are expensive as Coc*ine ( I guess)Specially when you have other types of crimpers in the garage. Oh, do you have a video of your Gas tank? ( Can't find it if you have one)