Oh, sorry man. The Squire necks are a different issue I believe. I have had multiple problems with them and the Mexican models.

Your method worked great using a drill bit inserted in the truss rod plug and heated it up with a soldering iron. Turns out the truss rod nuts on the 2 Squire bass necks were cracked (split) and not stripped. now I have to get the parts to finish the repair. Thanks again for the great video!

Thanks Roger that means a lot coming from you.

You are welcome! Thanks for watching.

Glad to help, thanks for checking out the channel.

Happy Christmas to you as well. Nice to hear from you England!

Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.

Thank you.

Glad it was helpful!

Glad you like it!

I hd not considered that. I doubt that I can remember all of them. They just seem to pop up when needed.

Of all things, the water thin glue I use for touchups is simply the little 2 packs of Duro superglue availabe anywhere. I pick mine up at Dollar General for $1. I have a variety of other hi-tech glues that I use for various things. The glue I used to remove the nut was Titebond Medium.

The first thing I would do is check the amount of relief with the truss rod in the neutral position. If you have more than .020 relief with string tension, you may not have enough room to adjust it. I have had to heat straighten and even sometimes re-fret the neck to get them to conform. There is an old Japanese Jazzmaster video here that had a similar issue. Also, when adjusting any truss rod put a little back pressure on the neck and bring the rod tension up. That way the rod is not doing all the work. Thanks for checking out the video.

I do not know I have not encountered the problem with Danos, But I doubt it is the same remedy. This solution is related only to the Fender Bi-flex rod.

That is a plain old stock Fender Strat Standard trem.

@@guitarc.p.r.9675 They didn’t look like that in the 1990s.

Ok I went back and checked it out. It had been probably 2 1/2 years since I had seen it. It is a strat std. trem, but the lighter steel saddles had been added. The saddles are stock Fender. Just had to take a reminder look.

@@guitarc.p.r.9675 Thank you! I didn’t know the steel saddles and screws would fit. I think I’ll do that on my build.

Awww, but yes they do. But it will have to be trimmed. BTW, chances are that if the nut is tight, you may have another issue.

@@guitarc.p.r.9675 any advice? I’m gonna take it to a local luthier, eventually 🤪 I’ve had it since 2019, it plays but just tight when it comes time for setups, would I be better off buying a new neck? Or is it affordably salvageable? I’d just like to be ahead of the curve before I talk to a luthier

Repair or replacement is your call. I can not offer any suggestions simply because without having it in my hands to evaluate it I would only be guessing.

I don't know, the label fell off years ago. Just google machinist wax you will find some.

Actually My favorite is the vintage style that adjusts at the neck heel. While I have had to repair all types, that one seems to me as the most solid. The Bullet has it's own problems with cracking fingerboards, and caving in at the pressure point, ESPECIALLY on basses. The bullet nut is also a bear to remove it it is cracked or stripped out. The advantage of the American Std rod is that is is double acting in case the neck actually hapens to be too straight while under string tension. Thanks for watching!

Music wire, aka piano wire, and spring wire is a high carbon steel rod. Very high tensile strength, and heat resistance. I used it to fabricate truss rods in my building days. It was easily available from hobby shops. I first used it in model airplane landing gear, and a model rocket launcher. It is common in everyday life. Just last week I found a section of it used as the idler arm belt tension rod in my clothes drier. Hope that helps and thanks for checking out the channel.

Sorry, I need a translator.

So I would be sure it was glued well. Most of the glue is going to slide off as the plug is put in, so I use extra. Plus the extra glue makes a nice lubricant to make sure it slides in and seats quickly and easily. The rod may possibly end up with back pressure on it and I have seen factory ones be accidentally pushed out some. In the few of these I saw there was evidence of a poor glue joint. Thanks for watching.

I agree with most of your comment. The reason I said to be careful, was just a heads up/warning. I have customers' guitars I have worked on for years without a problem. But it only takes one slip from a hasty owner to get into trouble. Fender's excuse to me on the phone was..."in a perfect world it would fit better" I mostly use a very hard wrench turned backwards with a small socket style driver as a handle. The Fender wrenches are a joke. The round tipped/T-handle ones supplied with the instruments should be thrown away. Frankly, there is a LOT of BS all over the industry. I have been dealing with it for nearly 50 years now. I tell people all the time "If you knew what I know about this industry, you would all take up golf."

Couldn't agree more. But I'm too nearsighted for golf, and Toni I. gives me goosebumps, not Tiger W. Funniest part of my past, 36 years ago my luther told me to "stop overpaying for these overpriced products. For less money I can build you anything you want. " Now that I'm 4 years into building my own instruments I really really wish I had listened to him. I'm sure he was right