Learn more about this build and these 5 parts here:bit.ly/2sbZ8MZ Subscribe for New Ford Truck Videos Added Daily: bit.ly/ATFSubscribe

Best mod I did was put on the shock on the tailgate so it opens slowly and doesn’t slam down! Under $40!

1. Window tint 2. Weather tech floor mats 3. Bed seperator 4. Rhino liner 5. Truxedo Bed cover

Number 1 should be NEW LUG NUTS !!! The OEM lugnuts can swell/deform and leave you stranded on the side of the road because you can't get them off to change your flat tire.

The best part of these newer Ford, Chevy, or dodge trucks is just how good the aftermarket support is. Everything is bolt on, its amazing.

My list: 1. Tint 2. Leveling kit 3. Exhaust 4. Weather tech mats 5. Cold air intake

So should I wait to get the foot gas pedal, 8 ball shifter, naked lady mudflaps, Yosemite Sam floor mats, and massive decals on the window? LOL.

Thanks for putting this together. My list would be: Exhaust, Cold Air Intake, and a tuner.

So far for my 19 ranger 1. Window tinted 2. Rubber floor mats 3. Bed liner 4. Bed cover 5. Running boards/steps 6. LED lighting So far 1-3 are finished.

My top 5+ must-haves 1. Window tint and 3M (don't get cheap stuff) 2. Upgrade factory headlights to LED ($500) (and fog lights while you at it) 3. Bed cover ($250) 4. Rear wheel well liners ($150). 5. WeatherTech or Husky floor liners ($150) Bonus: Air filter (OEM is aweful)

Everything gets expensive very quickly!

No one: This guy: The list of things that get expensive quickly gets very expensive quickly.

Window Tint. Side steps. Floor mats. Bed cover. New rims.

1. 3M Thermal Window tinting, including clear tinting on the front and back windshields. (Trust me, you'll thank me later) 2. Weather tech mats 3. Hard cover for the bed 4. Cold air intake 5. Bully Dog programmer I bought mine used, so it came with chromed running boards, but yeah, running boards are a must.

Personally I think Rear Wheel Well Liners are one of the 1st Must Haves, Huge Difference for about $150.00!

I lost about 1.5 mpg with a leveling kit. It will mess with your aero. The truck has a rake on purpose, and it's not just a preload for weight in the back. The CAI doesn't really do much either, other than a tad bit better throttle response in Normal mode and a cool "whoosh" sound with RPMs. Most worthwhile mods in this lineup are the tonneau cover and the running boards lol.

1. Tint 2. Floor/weather mats 3. Running boards 4. Level kit 5. Bed cover My top five modifications.

I did leveling kit, wheel well liners,husky floor mats ,med mat,and rci skidplates ,destroyed the all terrains truck came with in 3 months and tore open side wall on a rocky trail so went with 33inch bfg k02s truck towes hauls trails camps hunts and gets me out back country and back again love love this truck!

I installed a full bed rug kit in mine for a really nice mod for under 500. Window tinting and rear wheel well liners are a couple nice mods that won't break the bank either. I bought a new gator evo cover for under 500, much better than a soft cover.

First thing I bought: rubber floor mats, for a 2011 SCREW, front and back for about $240. After bringing the scouts back from a camp out; I'm glad I bought those. Now I need to get some seat covers. Those boys have a lot of fun getting dirty.

u definitely do need to clean your cold air intake way before 100k miles lol

Mods are for guys who are financially solid in ALL ways. At 20yrs old I stopped modifying. At age 62 I resumed paying only cash and knowing I'd keep the vehicle at least 8yrs. Loss is not my thing. Waste is voluntary loss. Not investing while young is tragic at age 60+. If and when you hit 62 you will see my point. Money is a tool only. A fool will misuse a tool every time and get hurt.

i have that exact tonneau cover on my 2016 f150, 4 years in still looks brand new.

My top 5 under $500 for a 5.0: MBRP stainless exhaust $421 OZ tune + used tuner $450 2" Level $50 (+$60 alignment) 2018 GT intake mani (ported if possible) $300 + porting Remote start $150 honorable mention? JLT or PMAS CAI if you feel like it.

I have the 2" level from Supreme on my 2011, and it looks great, was much cheaper than the bigger name brands, and has so far held up through my daily beating on the suspension.

Wish I would've had the confidence to install my leveling kit myself it would've saved me a ton of money. I have power running boards from RC, which are the cats pajamas. I love them

I always keep thinking how Ford really turned around the design of the f150 with this facelift. I never thought the front could look good with the odd elongated top and bottom headlights, but these new headlights and grill look great. Man I wish these trucks were mass made in RHD. Imported in small numbers and locally converted to RHD means US trucks are crazy expensive in Australia.

One of the dumbest waste of money is changing the air filter housing. The only way a filter can have ‘less restriction’ is to filter less air. It doesn’t matter what kind of air filter that is installed, a engine cylinder can only be filled with current atmospheric pressure. The only way to increase the air in the cylinder is: 1. Cool it. Cooler air is denser air. This is why most modern vehicles are engineered from the factory to get air from the wheel well, it’s cooler. 2. Force more air in the chamber using a scoop, turbo, or super charger. A aftermarket air filter box & filter doesn’t cool the air any better than a factory one. And it certainly doesn’t force more air into the chamber. They are useless.

Have a 2018, 5.0. Had 4 new f150s, plus 3 used Had 2 f250s used Had 2 f350 dump Had 1c f450 dump And a few GMC. All great

So glad I went with the roll cover instead of the tri fold. Heard too many complaints about it plus it is more expensive. Gets in the way if you wanna use your box

you do not gain any hp with CAI unless you tune the truck. it will not change anything because the factory intake parameters remain the same unless tuned. it is all in everyone's head because the CAI will make the engine sound louder.

Floor Mats should be on here!

Spray in bedliner before anything aluminum bed comon

Roush cold air system routes the opening to the grill as to not suck in hot air from the engine compartment I would think that would be even better than the one you’re showing although I don’t know if Roush offers that one to the general public

Most importantly JLT oil separator, that's a most on any direct injection. Motors. I have one on my 2015 V6 mustang and 2017 f150. Every oil change the truck is 3/4 full of oil. So this should be the most important . Saves from carbon build up in your engine and longevity of the vehicle. $139.

My list for ‘19 XLT 5.0 4x4 crew: 1. Tailgate assist from u guys, $37 2. Wheel well covers from u guys, $135 3. Dualliner drop in bed mat/ plastic sides/tailgate 4. Center dash and interior replacements of stock cheap black plastic w. wood trim 5. Bug deflector

So a cold air intake adds what? 2-5 horsepower to these trucks? I’m pretty sure just saving the $400+ and keeping up on proper maintenance will do the same thing

I would start with a auto start and stop disabler

I am here just pipe dreaming. I sold my truck to pay for my son's eye surgery. I am a Combat Disabled Veteran. It sucks being stuck at home. I would settle for a beat up 1980's F-150 just to have something I could use to take my son fishing.

The MBRP for F-150 and Ranger exhaust system is easy install and sounds amazing for south of $500. I like the design compared to the other expensive options. Glad seeing this in the top 5 suggestions.

I’d honestly go with the 3” leveling kit. I have it on my truck & it rides perfect still. I felt the 2.5” just didn’t get the front end quite perfectly level like the 3” does

Other things is oil separator, window tent, toolbox, floor mats, wheel well liners, programmer too sct makes a more budget friendly one with that’s not touch screen and make good power gains. And one more is mud flaps some don’t like them but I rem them on my 13 F-150 because I have wide wheels and it saves paint to munch and husky makes a kick back for lifted trucks or wonder wheels that looks good and keep from rubbing

I really love that shade of grey

If I level my truck, it is now useless. I haul dirt bikes and tow a couple trailers. For me, Wheel Well Liners are a first buy, then a spray/roll on bed liner.

Really Tinting should be the number one option. It makes driving about 100x more comfortable and makes ANY vehicle look way nicer.

I love the rake of a factory ford. If I was to do any lifting I'd keep it even front and rear. Hate when someone with a leveling kit has a load or a trailer and it squats the rear and the front is higher.

I bought bushwacker fender flares, proven ground grille, weather tech rain gaurds and the S&B cold air intake. Bought my stuff from these guys. Easy nice site

You guys are great...I have a 2015 3.5 Ecoboost Lariat - all of your posts are spot on...Keep up the great work...

S S is a must on exhaust up north. Don't waste the time on Aluminized pipe.

Window tinting and rear wheel well liners are a couple nice mods termin di saham that won't break the bank either

I never go on with a bolt on exhaust... only fully welded that's always the way to go you might pay a little bit more but you're going to have exhaust that's going to last you a very long time sometimes the life of the truck

Zero of these modifications would be in my best options. First of all unless you are wanting to decrease your acceleration and fuel mileage by adding some big aftermarket wheels and tires raising the front to level it just creates more goofy looking gap between your oem tires and fender wells. Remove the rear spacer if its a 4wd or just put in a drop shakle. It will be closer to level and still retain some of the rake depending on how much shackle drop chosen. Aint you wont need to get a realignment like after you install the blocks in the front. Cold air intakes are the dumbest thing in terms of the name since they draw air from the same location as stock. Its a same air intake. 5.0 F150 trucks can achieve marginal gains with "SOME" aftermarket intakes but "MOST" actually lower the horsepower on an Ecoboost. Especially the non enclosed intakes. They range in price from 300-600 and help very little at best. If you are doing a bunch of performance mods the intake can come in at some point, talk to a trustworthy tuner to purchase one that at least helps a little. The factory intake is very good and is on most vehicles these days. If you have an Ecoboost save that money and buy an intercooler upgrade. This does decrease the amount of horsepower you lose on warmer to hot days as the oem intercooler is garbage. But a really good intercooler is 550 up. But you saved wasted money on the intake. You can buy a Bullydog BDX tuner for around 500 with a tune or tunes included. Gains are tremendous for the money spent. The 5.0 likes tuning too but Ecoboost really wake up with just tuning only. Catback exhaust do not make gains on the Ecoboost or 5.0 but do sound good on a 5.0. The catted downpipe does help with a performance version but they are 750 up. Steep rails and bed covers. To each his own I guess. If you do aftermarket wheels and tires do your homework. Just because you look at a picture and like it doesn't mean you should buy it. The typical Fuel 20x9 wheel weighs 50lbs round about each and 22x10 60lbs. OEM 20 wheel and tire is about 75 total. Then add a 75lb offroad tire so you can drive up and down the street, thats smart. You can buy 33s that weigh 45lbs and you can buy 33s that weigh over 75. Reciprocating weight has a far greater negative effect on performance than sprung weight. My current 20 inch wheel and tire combo weighs 60 total per corner and its fast. Had 100lb each once before, not so much.

IMO - the best thing you can do for under $500 dollars is change out those terrible rear shocks, they are god awful, for under $200 dollars you can get a pair of Fox 2.0, or if you want something with a remote reservoir - Bilsten's are under 200 dollars and while they aren't Fox or ICON they are a really good shock. 2 to 3 hours and a couple of tools and you can change these out yourself if you are going to add the spacer to the front, change out the shocks in the back.

window tint rubber floor mats adjustable billstein leveling shocks to fit 34" tires intake rollup tonneau cover led lights

You're replacing a full stainless factory exhaust with an aftermarket aluminized that will rust out due to the ethanol in the gasoline.

Exhaust, leveling kit, bed cover, window tint, LED everything

My first 5 parts would be 1. a new block that dosen't loose oil.2.a transmission that doesn't rattle3.,a block heater that doesn't catch fire,4.a seat belt that doesn't explode.5.a dash that doesn't sag.All that at 18000 miles.

Would luv to hear the exhaust on the Ford F150 2.7L. A V8 exhaust mod is always gonna sound nice.

1. fix the rust on the rear axle

I never did like the low profile tires

I agree on most but I think if you own the 3.5 or 2.7 ecoboost the first thing you should buy is a catch can.

Great videos showing before and after together.

First thing I bought was a horn honk disabler for when you have the keys and close the door

I miss the longer beds. The trucks today are advertised with more cab and less bed. I know you can get any trim you want, but they just don’t look like real trucks anymore.

You guys need a Canadian warehouse/location/website.

You should make a video for reliability items , like upgraded intercoolers or add on coolers rear diff covers , oil catch can etc

Headlight adjustment with that 2 1/2” level kit. And high temp paint will help the MBRP aluminized steel.

Bilstein 4600/5100 rear struts. $150

Get a trifold tonneau cover, they usually just clamp on. The snap covers are garbage in the cold. And the Velcro ones are garbage once the Velcro gets a little dirty. I’ve also had issues with the roll up covers coming off the track and getting wedged in the bed. My trifold blocked them 1st 1/3 of the bed. But didn’t cover the back window. If I needed the full bed I just took it off and was able to get it in the bed with whatever large cargo I was carrying.

I broke down and got the black cowboy hat. Now I’m saving for the boots…

I bought a used truck, so my first 5 for under $500 was... (1) Powerstop Performance Brakes & Rotors (2) Cold Air Intake (3) Cat-Back Exhaust (4) Leveling Kit (5) Tint

I would of added a dang tailgate damper :-) 30buck item that should be on there by default.

Excellent presentation and mod ideas! Could you please address the level kit (hockey puck style) for FX4? The suspension is bit different so a 2.5" would not really work; I got the ReadyLift 1.5" for FX4 but the truck does not sit level. Thanks!

1.Tint on the front windows to match the rear and a slight tint on the windshield. Makes all the difference in heat and glare here in FL. 2. Agree with the roll up fabric bed cover. 3. Love my factory bed liner. 4. Adjustable Ranchos. Levels and you can really tell the difference in towing.

“Guys like is in north east having hot summers” Come to Texas bud

If you live in El Paso Texas you would have to change the air filter once a week...

another good $500 or less would be a drop in bed liner if your truck doesn't already have one. they usually run anywhere from $300-$450 for a drop in and around $375-$500 or so from a spray in bedliner i think. it's been awhile so don't quote me on that fully.

Can I pls say this screw 2015 and above trucks if ye can get a an older one with not many mile on it Bc 1 there built better 2 if it’s old enough it could be a 7.3 l diesel. 3 in some people opinions they look like year 2003 or so 4 there built better Note pls don’t mind my English sometimes I do make mistakes

My tri fold doesn’t block my view when folded open. It was also only 220$.

What about LED replacement bulbs? I can't find any information on if they are different than the 2015-2020 bulbs. Getting new STX and need to know if I should get the LED's.

I love the matt gray color with the sport grill.

$1700 in parts to build it the way the factory should have....:-)

First five real world mods that cost way under 500 bucks and are essential. 1. Factory Plastic bed liner. No spray on, No roll on. Remember, your F150 is aluminum! Cost is around 250-300 bucks. 2. Husky rear wheel liner. Easy for anyone one to install, takes all of a half hour to install and cost around 60 bucks. 3. Tail gate assist piston. Again, easy for anyone to install and cost under 30 dollars. 4. Tie down plates and cleats/anchors with locks. Easy installation and cost under 60 dollars for both sets. 5. Under rear seat storage box. This is a must seeing we don’t have a trunk. You can store an abundance of crap right under your rear seat and never even know it’s there. Average cost is around 150 dollars. This mod is probably the most essential right after a plastic bed liner and again is an easy installation for anyone. Roush cold air intake is a waste! In reality, you’ll gain maybe 3hp from it. Save yourself 400 plus dollars and just replace your factory paper filter with a K&N. It’s gonna do the exact same thing as a Roush system for 350 bucks less. Your trucks suspension is high enough. If anything, lower your rear suspension if you just drive on the street. I mean, who’s gonna drive their new truck that they just paid 50Gs for off road? Unless of course your Mommy bought it for you.... You can buy a stainless Borla dual exhaust system on EBay for under 400 dollars and it will sound better than any thousand plus dollar single system. Don’t fall for the big name brand crap. Shop around and research parts for your F150, read honest reviews and save yourself a ton of cash so you can add more accessories!

Ok, I did the Running Boards Bed Cover is Close to $1,000 for a Hard Cover, but I have to have it I will be getting the Air Intake I want the BACK RAKED, can I use the lift on the rear only The FIRST THING you should have done was a spray in bed liner

First 5 mods should be: 1) oil catch can, 2) tuner from 5star, 3) S&B intake, 4) Stainless Works downpipe w/ or w/o cats, 5) any 3" exhaust that does NOT use baffled mufflers ....6) a bigger intercooler; all of that should net 430tq to the wheels. As a PSA please adjust your headlights any time you lift or level a vehicle, this also includes increasing tire size or changing the headlight housing to a different brand so you dont blind on coming traffic.

Awesome before and after b-roll

Bigger meats isn’t an upgrade unless you regear the differentials. Just makes the tranny work harder shortening its life and killing fuel mileage.

the steel side runners look good but I wonder how slick they are when you get your boots all wet and stuff. Slippery runners are the worst

I just installed the rancho lift struts, rockauto cheapest by far! No lift in back oh 2015 f150 crew cab ! Don't buy the lift blocks spent the extra 200 n get the struts! No new wheels just new tires without wheels pacers. N I put on Atturo trail blade xt 305/55r20. Which measures 33.4x12.3! No issues at all !!

I didn’t do much to mine but level it and add tires with more traction in total it was like $1,200 O

Spectre power adder intake and a second cycle upgrade have my 4.0 v6 sohc at 365hp and 34.9mpg from 210 hp and 30mpg

I have the newer 2022 powerboost, I probably wont do anything with performance just since there is so much electrical and hybrid system, I have considered different running boards than it came with plus the cover. I take it tomorrow for a rhino lining.

Buy a 3.5 tt replaced filter refresh bcb e50 tune makes over 500whp under 500 total

Buy a brand new truck, take everything the engineers calculated to a T, and throw it out the window😂

I find that a toneau cover helps a little bit with gas mileage too.

That air box replacement is nice BUT since it increases the air flow it will mess with the MAF sensor and send odd data to the main computer and get it confused. It may throw up a check engine light. Most likely though the truck is going to run worse than before unless you reprogram the computer to accept that air box. "No tune up required" yeah sure....the shit manufacturers say.

Had a 2017 f150 5.0 put K&N air filter on it cost $379. Done terrible things for motor-less MPG about 5 - great loss of power. Maybe I needed to tune the motor after putting it on.

Everything except the soft cover was your typical nice upgrade. Can't imagine spending 400$ just to have it slashed by a butter knife. Now if you park in a garage and only go to home depot in your truck it's great, but for the average guy we need a Hard cover, but those start out at around 800$ and the only 400$ hard covers only fit the older trucks :( so the next best thing is to invest in an automatic machine gun turret 😁

I bought a Flowmaster exhaust system with a series 44 muffler single outlet weld on stainless exhaust tip for 180 bucks for my 2011 F-150 lariat 5.0 liter. Those fancy cat back exhaust systems are way overpriced!

I think the truck it self liked the new exhaust,