Great work, requires a lot of patience to get such custom machines designed and going! Run into similar issues building a 650 x 450 x 700mm 3D printer with constantly fighting Z-banding, bought several sets of ballscrews / leadscrews and still no results. i will make one last attempt to solve this with oldham couplers if i find something that matches the odd igus iglidur nuts i have otherwise im going to belts too. As for the Prima flexplate, i have been using those for the last few years and they are absolutely excellent. Make sure that you heatsoak your bed to reach the 60C on the top of the flexplate, as the temps you are reading are not even on the aluminium plate you have for the bed, it's on the heater PCBs. i would suggest to go with an AC silicon heater directly on the alum bed, as after that you also have the magnet and then the flexplate, it's a lot of layers to heat up without losses. On the issues you have with needing to make a bed mesh every single time, i would suggest making the mesh once and then just doing the physical leveling at the 3 points nearest to the belts. if the plate is flat every time at the same angle, then the mesh doesnt change :)

Huge project !

By The way, great job on the printer. I know the journey was riddled with bumps along the way but it looks like it was worth it in the end. :) You have also peeked my interest as this is the first video of yours I have see and will Sub and check out a few more!

Wood enclosures are 100% acceptable. and dont let anyone say otherwise. Have a look at Construct-3D, before they used bamboo, they apparently prototyped with MDF due to the insulative and vibration resistive properties.

If you are having issue with any filament sticking to the PEI sheet, try cleaning the sheet with Dawn dish soap. While wearing rubber gloves, I squirt on a good amount of Dawn dish soap (this brand has worked the best for me) and use a plastic brush to scrub the surface, then rinse it very well with hot water and pad it dry with a lint free cloth, and trying not to touch any part of the print surface with bare hands. For me it works every time on my 230mm, 350mm and 370mm PEI sheets. I get great adhesion with Polycarbonate, PLA, PETG, TPU, ABS, ASA, PA6CF, PA6GF... This will usually last for a good 10 to 20 prints at the minimum before I need to use soap again. I also find if I set the temp on the bed, even for just the first few layers to 5°C to 10°C higher than normal this also works very well for me and haven't had adhesion issues ever since I started doing it this way. I can sometimes extend the time between using Dawn dish soap by using 99% IPA with a good lint free microfiber cloth.

"i swear there's a good reason for the three power supplies" "there's no good reason for the three power supplies" lol, looks good though!

Great video

Brilliant. ❤

Throw a Beacon probe on there to speed up your bed mesh and gain much more resolution

Pretty new to this all, but seeing your vid made me brainstorm about the toolchanging haha I see a lot of improvements :D

Well you are close to end.. while im starting to put it together..thow i used much more time in design. Good work.

An excellent project for developing thinking. There is no model in the archive for fusion 360. Can I ask you to add a model?

The bed adhesion issue might be the temperature of the top of the bed dropping up and down. Also if fixed might help with the variance. CNC kitchen had a video on PID tuning the bed showing variance can occur when the bed drops in temperature. Id defiantly try a flat bed from precision 3d printer parts and a Kenovo mains power beds or four smaller beds and heaters

So, how do you compensate for the thermister variations across the four beds?Also, have you considered any bowing of the x axis in a heated chamber by trying something similar to the K3 and cross gantry for support purposes.

It's a very interesting project. What is the achievable print area?

The wood enclosure is probably safer than my xps foam 'enclosure'hahaha 🤣 honestly it's more of just a draft shield but it does manage to get up to 40c after about 20 mins

How did you implement the 4 bed heaters in the G-Code? I used 4 250*250 aluminium plates with a scaled up Voron 2.4 Mount and one 3DPrima PEI-sheet and have aboud 0,22mm deviation across the 500mm bed. Heating with 230V Heaters is pretty fast.

For the PEI sheet, did you scrub it with hot dish soap and water? That’s the only thing that actually fixes adhesion problems, alcohol wipes are not enough.

For PEI with PLA; 70c first layer, 63c for the rest

Hello. Does your print bed with weight of plastic fell when you turn off printer?

What screen do you use,and where did you get that mega long ribbon cable for it?

Wait - not a single link for us to buy the controller boards ??? :))

I nearly bought the toolchanger but I decieded not to, need a brain surgery on my brain to be clever. It is interesting to watch your YT, I have to say I need someone to help me to do the software, I can do is to build the rest. So I got 13 printers in my collection. One question will you get one pretty clean Tesseract? (doesn't have to be just you). Keep up a good work.

17:20

I can honestly relate to the deep deep hatred for the Klipper config reference. I feel your pain man.

hmmm , I wonder if this printer can fix my broken marriage , I'll give it a go... ps. I really wanna meet the gigachad who painted the black panels ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

That PEI sheet is crap. Don't let people gas light you about it. Everyone's solution is to run the temp way up, which is just a perfectly stupid answer. PLA should stick at room temp, if it does not, then the sheet sucks.

Maybe get rid of that pillow you are mumbling into and get an actual microphone that's cost more than$7 so we can hear you and don't have to max the volume