Awesome, thanks for the feedback! :)

I’ve got a 69 too! Considering EFI. What did you go with?

@@KMD583 Edelbrock Pro Flo 4, with the new intake, and fuel rails and injectors pre-installed. Highly recommended.

Ha, shade-tree mechanic at best. But thank you. :)

Thanks 👍 The shifter boot is a little stretched, but I think I can fix that down the road. :)

I promise it's all in the slick camera angles and fancy editing. :)

It probably wouldn’t hurt to run through the playlist again. 😉

Yeah, short gears like the 3.73 are a lot of fun. :)

Awesome, keep your eyes peeled for a Rear Diff video! :)

MDL makes a great external hydraulic kit, if you're in the market. :)

Many thanks!

Thanks! Next time I'm bringing it to your place, it's easier when there's two people. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel Definitely

Thank you very much!

Sometimes we just need someone to show us what to do as it can be difficult to put tasks into words. I hope your swap continues to go smoothly! :)

Glad you enjoyed it! :)

Good luck with your install. :)

It's fun when a change changes how the car feels and drives. :)

Thanks! I feel your pain on the knee issue, that's why I have the hydraulic clutch kit on my car now, it is effortless to operate, I recommend it! :)

@@AndyKruseChannel do you have a video on that?

@@TexarkanaPrepper I have an install video of how to do the hydraulic clutch on the car in this video (it came out not too long after this video), but I don't have much on the hydraulic clutch on my current car. Mostly because I already had a video, but partially because I split up the install because I was waiting for the motor to be installed to finish that clutch install. :)

Go for it!

Awesome, good luck! You may have to do what I did, negotiate with the Boss and see what she needs if you find that you need a T5. :)

Thanks 👍

Sounds like getting a new project car will be just what you need. :)

Thank you, I appreciate the feedback. :)

Mini starter? I like your thinking, check out my recently posted videos. :)

Thanks for that!

Yeah, those holes didn't align with my trim ring of the shifter boot. I later fixed the issue I was having where I made a similar plate to what you are referring to, it perfect now. :)

Awesome, thank you!

Hey, thanks!

Thanks Brotha! Good luck with the install, you’ve got this! 😁

Yeah, it's been a great upgrade for this car and my last car. :)

Awesome, glad to hear it!

Awesome, thanks for the support, and welcome to the fun! :)

Haha, welcome to the club. Hopefully you'll be able to pull nugget of info from my videos. :)

I like you're thinking..... :)

Awesome, thanks for the compliment! :)

Gotta have it! :)

That's by design, now that I've got you here, there's over 300 videos I need you to watch. :)

Thanks!! I only have two GoPros (5 and 8). The one outside I had to stop and keep moving to get the shots. :)

I was going to ask the same. Did u use a suction cup adapter? I was gonna try it but got scared 😢. Maybe a quick YT Short to show the setup?

@@mando82jr Yes, there's a GoPro adapter that works great, no issues.

No problem, thanks for watching! 😁

Welcome to the club! :)

Thanks! While this is my second time doing the swap on a Classic Mustang, I do feel this is fairly easy to do once you see someone go through the steps. You really don't even need any specialty tools for the swap, standard stuff will work. Yes, the clutch pedal video came out a few days ago. :)

That sounds about right. The biggest issue these pans have with leaks is someone in the past over tightening them which slightly dimples the sheet metal, makes the pan not seal with the gasket. You may need to pull the pan off and flatten the flanges where the bolts go through. You can probably see the holes in the flange dimpled in a bit. :)

Thanks! I did not check the run-out. While I probably should have, I did not do it on this car.

Thanks! Clutch and pressure plate number MD-07-14C, Flywheel number MD-CS157-28D, all from Modern Driveline. :)

First, you'd need to know which driven gear is inside the trans. At the least, you can peek in the side of the tail housing and see the gear, then count the teeth. Next, you'll want to know the gear ratio in the rear. There should be a tag on the front side of the third member that tells you the gear ratio. Is it's not there, you can spin one of the tires one full rotation and count the number of times the pinion gear on the third member spins. There are only a handful of realistic gear ratios for the 8", so it will be easy to see if it's a 2.80, 3.0, 3.25, 3.4, 3.55, 3.8, or 4.11. If it's a stock third member, it will be one of those lower numbers. Then find out the circumference of your rear tires. Finally, take all those numbers and find a website (there are many) that allows you to calculate the speed gear tooth count you need. This is another area that won't be exact, but you should be able to get a gear that is close, something that is less than 3 mph off when going 60 mph. Good luck!

Thanks! The clutch for this swap is a standard, nothing fancy unit from MDL. The part number is MD-O7-14C. It fits flywheels with a 10 inch bolt pattern and fits the T5 10 spline input shaft. The T5 will be fine on a 331 stroker, the key is to minimize the 5000 rpm clutch drops to paint rubber stripes down the road. :)

Without sounding over confident, this swap really is easy. Anyone with a basic set of tools should be able to get it done. There may be a way to get the T5 if you look at junk yards/scrap yards for Ford cars from '83-'04. There's other cars too, but a list of all T5 transmissions found online is a great place to start to see if you can find something you can salvage. I did not film the rebuild as I wasn't sure if I could get it all done my self. I jumped in and gave it a shot and by the time I realized I could do all the work, most of it was done and too late to start a video. Even then, the videos I used for the rebuild are way better than what I'd put together, no point in reinventing the wheel at that point. If anyone is interested in a T5 rebuild video, anything with Paul Cangialosi or Junkyard Doggs is where I'd start. Its a good thing KZfaq doesn't charge me by the view count on the videos I watch. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel saw that video too. Down under in NZ we have the Ford Falcons and Holdens. I believe the EB XR8 Falcon used a T5 produced August 1991 - August 1993, but have no idea if it'll work as there is nothing online with a definitive answer, all right hand drive here too. Ideally I get the box here and the components and parts from MDL in the states....

It was already installed in the car by the time I got to this part of the swap (there's a separate video for the pedal assembly). :)

Thanks! You can re-use your clutch and flywheel as long as you plan to retain the clutch mechanism (Z-bar in your case). If you choose to upgrade to the cable conversion or hydraulic actuation, you'll need a new clutch and possibly a new flywheel (depending on the clutch bolt hole pattern). If you're looking to change the clutch actuation, I'd suggest calling MDL and explaining your scenario, they'll be able to point you down the correct path based on your build plan. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel thanks! I’ll keep that in mind!

No, but that's be cause I don't put many miles on this car, and when I do there is a lot of WOT because I want to have fun with this car. :)

Nice, you've got this, it's not as intimidating as it may look. I have JBA Shorty headers (1650S) and the JBA cross pipe (1650SH), but this cross pipe doesn't work with most subframe connectors for the trans mount. In the video I show the cheap eBay unit, then I had to buy the MDL unit and slightly modify it to make it work. It's been almost a year and I have had zero issues, but I just wanted to give you a heads up if you go that route. :)

While it is important, it's less critical on cast housings since they're all made from a mold. The weldment style (like the popular Quick Time units) are built in a jig and there can be some very subtle variance in the weldment. This doesn't mean the cast style is perfect or that it can't have a subtle flaw, but these units did not have the runout measured on each car when they were installed on the Ford assembly line. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel I'm right in the middle of this swap right now.

I made sure everything was tight before going for a drive. I don't recall needing to tighten up the cable after driving around, everything seemed good from then on. :)

Yes, I used the same starter that was on the car when I bought it. However, I don't know which starter I had (assuming one could tell the difference from looking at it), and this car was originally a manual. Somewhere along its life someone converted it to an Auto. I observed no problems with the starter or damage to the flywheel. I eventually upgraded the starter to a more powerful unit from PowerMaster, but it was because of my engine upgrade, not because there was anything wrong with the starter. :)

Yeah, got them from the hardware store. You'll need four flange head, grade 8, 7/16-14, 2 inch long bolts.

Thanks! I would have loved to get a new Trans, but the budget forces a used purchase. But if I had the funds, I would have purchased a new TKX, or possibly a T56.

That '88 flywheel has a 50oz imbalance, so unless you've updated your harmonic balancer to also have a 50oz imbalance, you'll want to stick with the flywheel on your '65. The clutch is another story. This is dependent on the clutch actuation you plan to go with. If you are planning to use the factory 'z-bar', you'll want to use the '65 clutch, or at least a new one (call MDL, they'll have exactly what you need). If you're using a cable actuation or a hydraulic actuation, you'll want to get the modern 'push' style. This is another area where you can call MDL with your setup and they'll tell you the parts you need. Good luck, you've got this!! :)

Absolutely, but you'll likely need a different crossmember (MDL has a bunch to choose from) and I'm sure about the final driveline length, but you can do the swap. :)

By saying trans pan, I'm assuming you have an Auto. If you're certain it's not the pan gasket, then my guess would be the seal on the input shaft of the Auto. There's fluid in the torque converter and the seal between that and the transmission where the input shaft is located might be done. :)

By the time I installed this T5, I had not swapped out the rear end yet. I have since upgraded the rear end and I don't have any noticeable whining from the gears. If you're having trouble getting 5th to go into gear, it's likely that your synchros need to be replaced. While you're in there, you might as well freshen up all the synchros, bearings, and seals. :)

Thanks! I had to put the Hydraulic actuation on my last Mustang (I have a whole video about it and why), but this round I went with the Cable option for two reasons. One, the Cable option is almost 1/2 the price of the Hydraulic option. Two, I don't mind the required "push" to get the Cable to disengage the clutch. So people don't like that it takes additional leg strength to actuate the Cable clutch, but I don't mind because I'm old school and that's just how it used to be. On the other hand, the Hydraulic actuation is buttery smooth and incredibly easy to actuate. If the price was the same, I might have just gone with the Hydraulic. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel Ahh makes sense! Yeah after all my research only difference I could really see was it is "harder" to push with the cable but I agree that isn't a problem for me at all, and the additional cost for hydraulic isn't worth it for me at the moment. But awesome this video couldn't have came out at a better time. hoping I don't have an issue with my long tube headers and the cable like you did before

@@lukegoodwin2160 I hope you don't have an issue either. MDL has a list of headers on their website that are known to work with the Cable Clutch, it might be worth it to check it out. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel Do you know where that link is on their website? I've been endlessly researching trying to find out what long tube headers will work with the cable clutch. I'm almost done with my 347 build and do not want to go shorties on it. Thanks!

@@lukegoodwin2160 The list is inside the instructions for installing the cable clutch, and those instructions are available (in PDF form) on the page of the cable clutch kit. KZfaq won't let me put a link in the comments, but the instructions can be found on MDL's site when you get down to the specific kit for you car. :)

Thanks! Sorry Boss, I don't know if the hood is the OEM piece or not, it was on the car when I bought it. :)

@AndyKruseChannel yes sir! That is an awesome ride! I'm doing my wife's 64 1/2 which came with a 6 and a 3 speed. Just put a 302 in and will do the T5 swap. Your videos are a huge help!!!

That shift assembly I have is from LMR, part number SVE-7210A. I paid about $150 for it. You may be able to find a used shifter assembly on eBay if your budget is a little tighter. Maybe look up Steeda Tri-Ax or something from Summit Racing?

The excitement is real!

@@AndyKruseChannel Yes, I know the feeling. About 2 years ago, I converted my 1957 Belair 2drht from auto to a Tremec 5 speed. I had the same smile on my face as you did..

If you are set on putting that T5 with your I6 engine, you'll want to reach out to MDL and tell them what you have and they'll tell you what you need to make it work. They may have a bellhousing that will bolt up to your I6, so I guess you'll want to solve that equation first. If so, then you'll need to get the shorter input shaft and come up with a solution for the crossmember bolts are about an inch farther back and the speedo on the Trans is not a mechanical drive like your current setup. Fortunately I have a few of these solution in my other T5 swap video (summer 2021) where I put in that 2001 T5 you just mentioned. Check that video out. It's not a dead end, it just might cost more than you want and you'll have to decide if it's worth chasing or make changes to the car/motor to make it work. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel Thank you very much Andy, i´ll check out your other T5 video. I asked MDL and they told me it´s a dead end lol, but I´m not giving up yet. I still have the original bellhousing that goes with my inline6, so I´ll see if I still can adapt it. Worst case scenario i´ll sell it and hope to get the proper one. Final question, once you were able to swap your 2001 T5 to your old Mustang, did you have frequent problems with the installation/adaptation? or once it was set up it worked just fine?

@@jcrb0 I hate to break it to you, but if MDL says it's a dead end, it probably is (unless you've got money for custom parts). If you're set on keeping your 6, you're limited in what you can do with it. It might be worth it to find a 289/302 locally and shove that in there, then the T5 will work great. Once I got the T5 installed, it was easy as pie, with the exception of the clutch cable that I melted. But that was my fault for not following the directions from MDL and header choice. I had zero problems with that trans, and so I did it again on my next Mustang. Everything is great!! 😀

I don't know what parts you need because I don't know what you have so far. Your best bet is to head over to MDL and start with the clutch pedal. They usually put common needed parts on the bottom of the page for each individual item. But if you're still unsure, call the boys at MDL and tell them what you're working with, they'll be able to show you all the final pieces you need to get that T5 in your car. :)

This one, but barely. This jack is safer and provides more control, but it wasn't free. Most people will only do this once, so justifying the expense for the Trans Jack is tough for some. :)

You may need to check out NPD, CJ Pony, and maybe Modern Driveline. Unfortunately those kinds of bolts are not something most places will stock locally. You can also try McMasterCarr, they usually ship pretty fast. :)

In this car it was not hooked up. As far as offering advice on how to bypass the neutral safety switch, I'm not your guy. :)

I cannot confirm if the booster would be in the way, but the cable is sort of flexible, it might be able to be routed over the top of the booster to the firewall. Also, if it is (which MDL can confirm for you) you could do the hydraulic option. I went from Cable to Hydraulic on my last Mustang and I made a video of how that install went. The master cylinder for the hydraulic clutch mounts closer to the fender wall, so it would definitely clear the booster for the power brakes. The hydraulic actuation is much, much smoother and easier to use that the cable, I just went with the cable because of my budget. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel Appreciate what your doing. Have a 66 coupe. endless possibilities with these cars as long as the wallet can handle it. Thank you Sir!

Brand new pressure plate.

Probably, but that second crossmember (not the cheap ebay unit) did the trick. :)

Flywheel bolts = ARP 100-2801. Clutch bolts = ARP 150-2201. Correct, these clutch bolts have a shoulder because the dowels pins are not used. :)

So the T5 is the correct depth and so it bolts up correctly.

It's the little things...... :)

Yep, part number SVE-7210A

My first guess are worn out synchros inside the transmission. Beyond that, maybe the clutch is not fully disengaging or possibly worn shift fingers (located inside the top of the trans, these can get stretched out over time). Lastly, maybe double check the fluid level and make sure there's enough ATF fluid inside there. Good luck!! :)

Was this a new unit or a refurbished?

I'm into this particular swap about $2500, but I was almost $4500 into this same swap on my last Mustang. There were several things I didn't need to buy this round, but part of that is due to getting the "right" T5 and using some parts already on my car. It's safer to buy a T5 from places like MDL or a local transmission shop as they're likely to have been gone through recently and often come with a warranty. But, nothing is free, so those T5s will be more expensive. I purchased this T5 from a local guy off Facebook for $250. The guy seemed legit, but the price was too good to be true. Turned out that there were several teeth missing from the mating gear for 4th on the intermediate shaft. But, when buying the new intermediate shaft and rebuilding it myself (there's lots of good videos on KZfaq on how to do that) and buying some needed tools, it was still cheaper than what I paid for my first T5 and I was able to skip the rebuild labor costs I had to pay last time. However, not everyone is in a position to do that kind of work, let alone be willing to give it a try. Another thing to consider are used parts. While not ideal for some people, this can be a way to shave a few bucks off the total. The single most expensive item I had was the Cable Conversion Kit (the Hydraulic Kit is almost double that price). The bellhousing was also a pricey piece, but people can find these used all the time. I think it's robbery for what they charge for the Crossmember Support, but I wasn't in the mood to make my own so it is what it is. If you bought all new parts (like I did), you can safely put aside $2000 for everything but the T5. That will get you what you need and give you flexibility if you want something nicer than what I have for one part, but willing to go a lesser route for another part. It's easier and cheaper if you stick with the '83-'93 T5s, but the newer units will work, it just takes more money. For info on installing the '94-'04 T5s in a classic Mustang, check out the T5 swap video I did last year.

Used unit.

@@AndyKruseChannel I saw your last series on the coupe! I agree it's murder how much some of the components cost. I have a local place that has several refurbed units and also carries plenty of components. I'll be converting from a 3spd manual and would like to use most of the parts that can carryover assuming they are in good shape still. Are you going to swap the rear end out next to improve acceleration? I guess it all depends on what most of your driving is. I'm city almost exclusively so don't mind highway speed cruising at s higher RPM, just not 1:1 high 😁

@@jordanschultz2232 I don't want to give away any details on the new rear gear and limited slip purchase I made... wait..... doh!!

Yes, it fit perfectly in the car, no issues with installation or alignment of any kind. :)

I can see why they would say that as the crossmember I am using is from MDL but I had to slightly modify to make the JBA pipes work. Some crossmembers out there don't work with these JBA pipes (you can see why in my video), but the MDL unit is the closest one I found that will work. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel Excellent, thanks for the reply. That is the crossmember I'm going with when the time comes to convert it to manual. I just didn't want to have to buy another front pipe when I change to the T-5.

I don't know how the T5 would fit in your application, but it shouldn't be too far off from how it bolts up and fits with the 289/302 blocks. Is it possible that the engine mounts are either worn out or need to be adjusted? That may play a role in how the T5 fits in the tunnel. Also, in my build, the T5 isn't exactly centered in the tunnel, and this is ok, the crossmember bolts to the transmission and makes everything line up. :)

Mostly cost, as the Hydraulic Kit is about $200 more than the Cable Kit. If money wasn't an issue, Hydraulic any day of the week.

@@AndyKruseChannel good to hear I was wondering why the switch so I was hesitant at first. Your video for the hydraulic kit isn’t the cost around 200 for the entire kit? It’s been a while since I watched it but were there other parts needed? I just ran the number for the kit from mdl

@@lucianohernandez3468 There are two parts to the kit, the master cylinder (about $320) and the slave cylinder (about $225). You have to select them separately on the MDL site as there are a few different models and designs, it depends on what you want.

Thanks! Um, not sure where to begin. Using words to describe the sound is not easy, so I'm already lost on the "whoa whoa". If it's a new unit from MDL, then it's probably not the Trans. However, if it's only in first gear, you can almost eliminate everything outside of the Trans. I did find the long threaded rod of my parking brake (once I finally installed my parking brake) was very subtly touching the u-joint right at the output of the Trans. After trimming the length of that rod down, the sound went away. However, I'm not sure how the parking brake is setup on the '67. You may need to put the car on jackstands, fire it up, and put it in gear. As long as you don't get crazy with the wheel speeds, you should be able to hear the sound with the car in the air. You'll need so help, maybe have a buddy sit in the seat to keep the speed low while you listen. Try not to get under the car, but you may be able to see something rubbing if it's an external issue. Good luck!!

@@AndyKruseChannel thanks for the quick reply. I did put the car on blocks to turn the wheels. Sure seems like the noise is coming from the transmission. I say noise but also a vibration is part of this. I did find an exhaust bolt looking like it was touching the floor. Fixed that and no real change. I’ll take a close look at the emergency brake cable set up but pretty much as you describe on the 66. I’ll be calling MDL.

Why?

Sorry Boss, I don’t.

I did not hook it up. I pulled the rod out from the switch and taped up the wires. :)

The driveshaft you had with your C4 will fit. Both the length of the driveshaft and the yoke will all fit. That’ll save you a few bucks as you work through your swap. 🙂

@@AndyKruseChannel sweet! Thank you! Not sure why some people are telling me otherwise. I was wondering if it was cause you said you had a newer t5 but I might be confusing videos.

@@bry94608 The output shaft spline count is the same on the C4 and T5, so the yoke will fit. Buy new parts is not a bad idea as you'll know there's nothing wrong with them (cracks, stress marks, etc), but it's not needed to get your car heading down the road.

@@AndyKruseChannel appreciate you!

Got the t5 mounted but fyi the drive shaft is a little to too long. I wonder if I can cut the slip yoke a little. I’ll call MDL tomorrow.

If I was buying new, I would only spend my money at Modern Driveline (MDL). Not only do they have the transmission you want and all the associated parts to make the swap, but they're super great to work with. If you're on a tight budget, try to find your T5 on Craigslist or Marketplace, shop around a little for some of the more basic parts, but still get some of the important stuff from MDL (like the bellhousing, flywheel, and crossmember). :)

@@AndyKruseChannel thanks Andy.

Yes, most of what I did in this video should work on your car. However, depending on your year and model, the C4 driveline may or may not work, you'll want to check into that. :)

I added the pedal that MDL sells, and installed it with a roller bearing kit. Super easy to do and I'd do it all the same again if I had to. I made a video about it, it came out right before this video. :)

I used the pedal assembly that was in my car. I purchased clutch pedal from Modern Driveline, and I modified the brake pedal and assembly to accept the roller bearing kit upgrade so the system pivoted on roller bearings instead of the poor shaft design from the factory. I have a video on that modification/upgrade that came out near the same time as this video. :)

Part number 4106. :)

I'm getting old and the relatively zero effort needed for the hydraulic actuation is better for me knee. For those on a budget, the cable actuation is perfectly fine, but if you've got the scratch, get the hydraulic version. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel I feel your pain. i just turned 62. What's you recommendation on headers?

If it's in the budget, FPA headers any day of the week. If the budget is less, then something like some Doug Thorley Tri-Y headers. :)

@AndyKruseChannel thanks Andy, I really appreciate your help and knowledge.

Sorry Boss, I do not know the answer to that. However, the boys at MDL are really knowledgeable and would know if the cable would work for your setup. :)

I had to replace the Intermediate Shaft during the trans rebuild, new gears and old gears are trying to find their happy place.

Yep, JBA 1650S. I have a video about them on my channel. :)

The clutch is a new unit from MDL, part number MD-07-14C. If it's in the budget, I'd recommend the TKX over the T5. I may upgrade to the TKX down the road. I never paid attention to gas mileage on this car, as I drive it so infrequently and with a heavy foot. :)

Thank you for the quick reply.@@AndyKruseChannel How come the TKX over the T5? T5 not sturdy enough? I'm looking at a good deal on a brand new T5 + new bellhousing + new Crossmember for $1450

The TKX is rated for much more power and in my case, I am making more power than what the T5 is rated for. I have not broken anything yet, but that's a combo of me not driving like a mad man, but I also don't want to break anything right now so I'm being mindful of that while I drive. As long as the guts of that T5 are not shredded, that sounds like a decent deal. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel Makes sense. No, it's a brand new T5 from Tremec. Guy bought it and had to pause his project. I have a Blueprint 302 crate engine rated at 365 hp. It's a daily driver so while I'll get down on the throttle every now and again, I drive it likes it's a 50 year old car. (The good folks at Modern Driveline actually recommended at T5 over a TKX for my application.) My only hesitation is like you mentioned I don't want to feel like I have to be careful all the time. I think it'll be fine though. Appreciate your channel and your videos. I'm learning a lot!

@@bradstaton1934 New T5, Bellhousing, and Crossmember for $1450? Buy it. Yeah, at 365 you'll be fine with a T5, just keep the 5k clutch drops to a minimum. Actually, you'll probably shred the 8" rear before you ruin the T5, so now you've got one more item to explore for your list. 😝

The are a lot of similarities between the '66 and '67 when it comes to swapping in a motor and trans, so this video will get you part of the way there. You may want to check out Vintage Mustang Forum for additional help on smaller details of the swap. :)

Thanks you.

I threaded it to the clevis, then attached the clevis to the end of the linkage bar that bolts to the side of the clutch pedal.

@@AndyKruseChannel but how did you get it attached to the linkage bar? Did you do it before attaching the cable to the firewall through the hole you drilled? Cause I am at my wits end with it. Can’t see what I’m doing up there and not much hand room.

Attach the clevis to the cable before feeding it through the firewall. Then, under the dash, attach the clevis to the clutch bracket with the supplied pin and cotter pin. Then bolt the linkage to the clutch pedal.

I don't, but it's tough to gauge the time as I have to deal with the lighting, camera placement, knowing what to say, and stuff like that while I make the video, so it'll naturally take me longer. However, if a guy had all the tools and parts ready to go, maybe a friend to help, this could be done in a day. The parts that can delay this swap are stuck bolts and dealing with the exhaust if the system is not already modular or able to be taken apart and put back together. This particular swap took about a week because of the problem I had with the transmission crossmember (and I work a regular job too, so my time is limited). But if I wasn't so cheap, I would have purchased the better crossmember to begin with and I would not have had an issue. :)

No, way less. I can easily pick up the T5, I need help with the C4.

Not sure of the exact year, but the tag translates to mid-1986 to 1989.