All powered by pink USB chargers.

@@tin2001 From China

Indeed.

Hi.

Or a cheap waterproof ( resistant ) enclosure with a glass cover..

AvE Do more snoeboarding videos.

Hey man, I've been riding in Chicago snow on a bike every day, I can sympathize completely, today the snow was slush and will freeze solid by night

These housings are at least useful to mod in some better components. Can't beat all the kit it has for 10 bucks.

Underrated comment

hahaha

I do believe that would be in the 500 to 5000 watt range

Yeah, like the "65 litre" rucksack I bought from a now closed-down camping shop, that was about 35 litres RMS .....

so she thought 'earth' meant she could put it in her flower pot? lol

@@Blox117 I think you're just supposed to laugh

@@Alexander_l322 LOL HAHAHAAHAHA!

Hey, it adds up.

Yeah, a screw or solder or even silicone/glue, anything to hold it in place better than something that could be shaken off the casing.

And now they will loose many times 10 dollar because these viewers will never buy one...

The earth wire is meant to be attached to a left hand thread

...and they have red and bwack hooked up to it.

@@theotherwalt maybe they spwelt it right and we are wrlong

@@Soooperspeed You no Wong! He Wong!

@@mikecowen6507 ha ha ha ... my wowwy my really wowwy ... lol

@@mikecowen6507 In the words of the late, great Louie Anderson: "Yew been hee sree owwa... yew eat too much... yew go home now"!!! 😁

Brue??

@@heronimousbrapson863 - It is a common color like geen and wellow.

Can I ask curious question , how is it this video was posted 10 to 30 mins ago how did you comment 3 DAYS before the upload ? Just confused lol

Those colors are standard for some countries

Jesse LeBlanc - Clive uses a time machine called the TARDIS...

And the fact there is a substantially lower use of puns and made-up words.

Well ave was here watching with the rest of us. Lol

I just treated myself to some of the "3 in, 3 out" SPL-3 fake Wagos, as reviewed by Big Clive recently and available here: www.aliexpress.com/item/33013965974.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1f6a4c4dKnpnwR One tenth the cost of the Quick Test, and / or 10x for the same price :-) Am now wondering whether to color-code the levers...

Giggity

12:28 Lets whip it out...

I'm not sure it would be able to take a very long one, though.

@@bluerizlagirl Never mind the length, feel the gEarth.

Steve Perry But that's what it says in most single phase connection stuff.

I think mine predates the Cliff version. It's called a safeblock.

LEN = Line Earth Neutral ... the order of the connections, not the name of the item/manufacturer.

And to the customer's meter!

Power factor isn't an issue for the domestic market, we are only charged for the true power (in this case 20w). Industrial market does get charged for apparent power, most industrial use is for things like electric motors which would be inductive loads that would give you a lagging pf, a capacitive dropper would be a leading pf, therefore it would compensate somewhat for the lagging pf of the inductive loads. When I was a colliery electrician, we had sodding great big capacitors in our sub-station that we'd have to switch in or out to compensate for the highly inductive loads from our transformers & electric motors.

ohh yes that's how they rate them and get away with it

VA*

i have one and after 8 hours its still cool enough to touch

Forgive me for being doubtful, but "the heat sink is cool" tends to wind up being an indicator that input power is lower than expected or there's a significant thermal resistance between the heat source and the sink itself. For example, the latter is why cheap fake SSR's tend to run surprisingly cool. In this specific case though, I'm assuming that yours is also operating at 20W and that "cool enough to touch" is approximately the same as saying "not too hot to touch". That's plausible. If those assumptions are wrong and it's actually dissipating 50W with e.g. 30C temp rise in still air, then I'm going to revert to being doubtful.

@@PSUQDPICHQIEIWC indeed mine was also not at the advertised 50 watts, for which I will forever be irritated. its closer to 30 watts measured. by cool enough to touch, I do in fact mean you can put your hand on it without getting burned, but it still feels significantly hot. but I was curious on why you seem to think that this heatsink, which is basically a large chunk of aluminum, couldnt support a 50 watt LED? especially since LEDs and their power supply are not 100% inefficient there will always be less than 50 watts of heat generated. have you experience in using these LED chassis and heat dissipation was too low? I know that CPUs consume much more power than these LEDs but have no trouble getting rid of heat. that could be due to the radiator type cpu coolers though.

My assertion is just intuition based on my perception of its size and the assumption that substrate temperature should be kept below about 80-85C at some specified Ta at or above 50C. I don't have one and have not made measurements or in-depth calculations for one. I usually make the approximate assumption that Pthermal=Pelectrical*0.8 for calculations. I'm neglecting the losses in the driver, but since it's mounted to the same sink, that doesn't exactly counter my doubt. The description of the heat sinks I use at 60W was given for the sake of geometric comparison. Those have much more cooling area and are still marginal in their application. Your latter point is a good case for demonstration. While CPU and LED cooling are both more challenging than say a simple transistor due to their lower allowable junction temperatures, CPU cooling is a lot less of a challenge than LED cooling for a couple reasons. First, clean air means you have the advantage of being able to use forced-air cooling which is a huge advantage. Second, the ambient air temperature is going to be somewhere in the ballpark of 30C. While it's certainly possible to find a lighting application where Ta is constrained and fans are allowable, they are often not (specifically in my usage they aren't). In bay lighting applications, Ta can be above 60-65C, and inacessibility or insects or moisture may make fans a liability. Surface area aside, the simple change from forced to natural convection tends to mean that the heat sink will become less "dense" -- that is to say that it will have fewer, larger fins with more space between them. Also, spreading the heat from a point load limits the benefit of an arbitrarily large passive sink. This is all made worse by the fact that natural convection benefits from having a large temperature difference between Tambient and Tsink -- something which is often unaffordable if Tsink has to stay relatively low. You can dump 60W into a CPU cooler that fits in the palm of your hand, but a passive sink that's able to match the same base temperature at that power input will be huge. Disregarding orientation, contact area, and temperature rise for a moment, consider the admittedly strained comparison of nominal figures: A 120mm single-fan cpu cooler with nominal 0.1 K/W thermal resistance: www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835214064 This 430mm wide, 33mm tall extrusion profile with a 360mm length with natural convection would still have more than twice the thermal resistance (~0.23 K/W). That's a 17" x 1.3" x 14" heat sink. Given that this data assumes uniform heating and a 75C temp rise, that's optimistic! www.shopaavid.com/Product/63340-full Yes, I have a feeling that I'm far more conservative than most about keeping Tj within SOA at all times, and I accept that an individual can choose to accept any other range of operating points for their applications. Still, for risks to be accepted, they must first be acknowledged. Sorry for the giant reply.

Population control measure..

They know how to beat UL listings lol

I was hoping there was going to be a magic keyword, but there isn't yet. The main seller of these on eBay seems to be:- www.ebay.com/usr/cici-led-lighting Who have them in amongst their other listings. Hopefully they will ship the new flip chip type and not the old bond wire type.

@@bigclivedotcom From some searching I have done since then (with the aid of some helpfully high-res photos) the ones that appear to be the flip-chip type are the square COB with the raised center and dam around the phosphor as opposed to the square-ish sunken-center ones w/tabs. Have yet to see bond wires on the former, almost always on the latter (if high enough res to see). The former also alludes to no bond wire with the spacing and placement combination (on some) as the wire ones are always in a straight line packed close together. So far just detective work with guessing until you or someone disassembles one of the square boards. You buy one from your seller to take apart, or plan to take some phosphor off the one in the vid?

@@IncertusetNescio Some just arrived today.

A 20W led is more like a 200W incandescent than 50.

@@JasperJanssen That's just them under promising and over delivering ;)

Handy when you're buying the things - people know how much light to expect from a 60W ro 100W incandescent, but few consumers know what to expect from a 7.5W LED (and in fact it can vary from brand to brand.) Eventually - decades from now - consumers might shop for a particular number of lumens. But for now, "equivalent to a 60W incandescent" is what the buyers want to see.