That comment makes my night. Thanks!

Can't wait to see...

Thanks Carl. I'm planning to do that course. And it's the same here. :)

Oh there are links to the one I picked in the video description. I bought a tracker by iOptron, but a different base that's nicer to use.

Hudson Henry Photography Yes - saw that. B&H is out of the iOptron (even the electronic version and weird for them, they have no idea when they’re getting more inventory). The SkyWatcher wedge base is also back ordered, but they expect more in ~2 weeks. Thanks

I don't think it will work without timelapse, but if you want the best video noise reduction leave it to the Neat Noise plug in. It's amazing.

Shutter priority at between 1/60 and 1/100 with auto ISO and continuous with dynamic area. :-)

So then do you switch to manual focus after using pinpoint?

@@stucker5860 No need. Once you focus on the star you’re set. If you focus only through your AF-ON button, the focus will stay on that star for the rest of the night.

That's just because it's the best astro lens most of us have ever used. Zero chromatic aberation wide open even in the corners is a thing of wonder I the night sky. It's a great wide angle for any thing of course including street. I lean to 28-35mm for that sort of work personally though. All of Nikon's S lenses are just astounding. It's hard to go wrong. All the Z lenses really. I'm really enjoying the new little 24 1.7 DX lens on my Z50. If I didn't have the Leica Q3 that would be my street rig of choice. It's got fabulous IQ.

@@HudsonHenryPhoto I have the 35 and 50, both great lenses. I’ve been thinking though to swap the 35 for a 24 or 20.. if there was a 28 S lens I’d go for that, but it seems Nikon keeps that focal length for their smaller lenses (understandably).

I felt no need for the star work. I use a different system for motion time-lapse so I haven't tried that. I just turn it off for the foreground and on for the star field. :-)

No I haven't. I haven't even researched it much. 20 had always been a favorite presume length of mine and nikon has a history of 20s I've loved. They specifically touted its lack of coma and CA for night work in the marketing at release so I've been stoked to test it.

I've shot some of my favorite images over the past 10 years with that lens, but if you're at all considering mirrorless (and I think you should be), it's be a bit hesitant. It's in my gear links though if you decide to go for it. It's a heavy beast, but stellar. Www.hudsonhenry.com/atslinks

Yep... I'm thinking it's time to test the 50... :)

@@HudsonHenryPhoto It's the sharpest yet S lens.

I took your advice Jim to try it. Love it! I'm a big fan and will be promoting them too as a great lightweight system. Thank you so much!

The southern cross, but you'll need to look at exactly where.

Thank you for your service!!!!

No it applies still. The only difference in a DX lens is that it projects a smaller circle letting the company build a lighter cheaper lens with less materials. A 50mm is a 50mm projection no matter how big an image circle you crop from it. Photo Pills NPS rule calculation is the best automated App I have found. You enter the camera body, focal length and aperture and it does the calculation for you. On a D7200 11mm at 2.8 is 9.3 seconds by it's mark. ;-)

I think you watched it wrong. Watch it over. It's a comparison of old and new. The 20 1.8 F has horrible Coma. The 20 1.8 S has almost ZERO coma.

:-) I love 105 so much. It's such a great length. The 20 is really lovely. You won't regret it. I'm playing with a lighter cheaper star guider for wide angles now too. More to come on that soon.

Fair enough but interrelated and rarely differentiated in our photographic nomenclature. And yes, bad either way ;)

It's a tough call. The 14-30 is such a great, versatile landscape lens. The 20 1.8 kills for astro, but it's far less versatile. 14 is 30‰ wider than 20 and 30 is 50% longer. You can do astro with the 14-30 and the move shoot move tracker. All of it is at my links... Www.hudsonhenry.com/atslinks :)

@@HudsonHenryPhoto could I get the Milky Way with the 14-30? I would only do Astro on limited occasions. I live in PA and have a lot of light pollution. Mostly would do Astro when I visit national parks

Yes with that lightweight move shoot move star tracker I mentioned in the links. You just have to composite the fore and background images. I'm going to do a course on that soon. :)

@@HudsonHenryPhoto you rock!!!!!!!!!

@@HudsonHenryPhoto would I need a tracker for the 20mm? Do you have any landscape daytime images with the 20?

Thanks so much. I really appreciate that and value your input. I have to very respectfully suggest that if you came to observe yourself, you'd find that narrative is not accurate. Especially now.. I mentioned that there were misguided, angry kids shaking things up and staying late with fireworks and homemade body armor to draw the DHS troops out. I also saw armed right wingers with military body armor and Hawaiian shirts that scared me much more. All of it was incredibly exacerbated by the federal presence and we've had peaceful protestors horrifically injured from a fractured skull to a veteran's broken arm which was clearly never raised as he was beaten and pepper sprayed by DHS. I've spent my time in Iraq and Kuwait's combat zones in my youth and I can tell you that the word riot applied to my city is anything but accurate. That's why Pence was wise enough to agree to a deal with Brown to pull out. It didn't work out. The crowds grew each night of the occupation and there were were too many images of moms and veterans getting clubbed and gassed and no hardened rioters to prosecute and use as poster images. Just misguided kids. If these scary rioters existed, their mugshots would be all over certain media outlets. The kids they're catching look like our own under the homemade anti-fascist outfits they wear. All they've really found are fireworks, graffiti , fence rattling and water bottle throwing. It was sticks and stones vs military grade weaponry in inexperienced hands. Since the federal withdrawl that Pence was wise enough to broker we've had two peaceful nights downtown. I'd stay late down there any time without the tension the feds created. I'll bring my kids downtown at night again. The out of control rioting narrative simply rings false on the ground in this thriving, vibrant, fun little city that I'm proud to call home.

I get more accurate results through the viewfinder manually minimizing the size of a planet or very bright star wide open and zoomed in to 100% than power cycling. Sometimes low light AF nails it, but manual seems more consistent.

Sadly covid knocked out the Portland workshop. I would have been.

@@HudsonHenryPhoto Sorry to hear about the workshop. With luck this will be over soon, and its been a great time to slow down and re-balance whats important in life.. I will give the manual focusing another shot. I find it hard to get a very accurate image at high ISO, with all the sensor noise. I should do the tests in reasonable light and try to get an idea of how power cycling compares to manual focusing, so I get a feel for how far to move it. I agree I tended to get inconsistent results with pinpoint / low light unless I used a large planet.

That's the 20 on any star tracker. Can't beat it. The 14-24 S rocks too, just takes a longer exposure at 2.8

@@HudsonHenryPhoto 14-24 probably most versatile for my use, but then I would have to swap it for mye 14-30 F4. Or would that lense work good enough with a star tracker?

It's way too slow to work at optimum iso. That's why I love the 20. 500 iso, 1.8, 90s. The 14-24 takes that to 240s @ that's 8 minutes with noise reduction. Double that at F4. Or add lots of noise... Too much compromise.

@@HudsonHenryPhoto Ok. Thats what I thought. Have to think about the z20 then 🙂👍

The 50 is a favorite of mine. Sure.

@@HudsonHenryPhoto U-Tapao Thailand, May 1970 to May 1971 www.flickr.com/photos/186765418@N06/albums/72157713582906062 Bob Hope Christmas Show www.flickr.com/photos/186765418@N06/albums/72157713558239343