This is a brand new ultra- light more affordable version. I'm not a fan of the huge, heavy, expensive one that's been out there for years Jay. This is brand new.

@@HudsonHenryPhoto this is the one I meant to mention. They have had it at least for a few months. No I wouldn't want that older one. It is meant more for the larger SLRs.

I must have assumed you meant the old one Jay. My sincere apologies. I should credit your for telling me about it. :)

A favorite spot. ;)

Thanks man. Can't wait to see you in the fall workshops!

It would not surprise me at all man. :(

You bet! First name's Hudson, but no big deal. I've got links at www.hudsonhenry.com/atslinks thanks for considering them.

@@HudsonHenryPhoto apologies… I was illegally driving while typing that and got your first/last name mixed. I am typing this from my office though. 😁

Ah, you haven't worked late hours on a cool night with moderate humidity I see. Element condensation can and most certainly does happen as your camera sits outside without ever changing environments during night shoots. If that happens you'll really wish you had been using a lens warmer. It fogs inside just like the situation you describe moving out of air conditioning or into heated buildings. I have plenty of videos describing best practices for avoiding fog when moving in and out of heat or AC. Leave it outdoors in the bag is a great tip, but it does not help on a cool humid star shoot. You can be hiking with your camera, leave it outside the tent, pull it out after total darkness, set it up for a timelapse of the stars and find every element fogged internally after an hour or two... :-( The lens warmer fixes that.

Oh yeah we did that last time we were there. A blast. :)

Cool. Links are at www.hudsonhenry.com/atslinks

I should have specified that result was using the Sunway and Hoage components.

No. We do include that with the advanced Pano course though.

If you link that to me, I'd love to check it out. I'd certainly prefer it, but the only PG-01s I saw were the leveling-base/panning and panning only versions. I obviously skipped the leveling version. i just looked over their site and didn't see another version there...?

@@HudsonHenryPhoto it is not immediately obvious, on the RRS site you have to select the “Ascend Base” as the leveling base option. Here is the link www.reallyrightstuff.com/pg-01?quantity=1&custcol18=3&custcol19=6&custcol20=1

Yep. That makes a ton of sense for fluid head or pan and tilt head users. Great call. Wish they had listed it with the standard PG-01 options. Aw well... The pan is an ounce and a few bucks more and very handy. The panning version does make it so you need not carefully level both the base and the tilt. Just get tilt close at setup and level the PG-01 at the base. Small thing, but a benefit.

As I'm more than happy with the lighter and ludicrously sharp F4 in combination with my 50 1.8, I don't carry that. I've got a video in the advanced pano course that details exactly how to find it. It's even a free download preview of the course if you check the training section of my site. If you measure it, email it to me and I'll add it with credit to you. ;)

e-Bay is likely the best spot.

it's not so much that it's discontinued as they just haven't fulfilled the backorders for months, so B&H is done with it. You can still see it on their site. It's been a bit disappointing. Sadly, it's too small for the Z9 with an L-bracket too. I'm going to work on designing something that works and linking the parts again. That's what I did before the PG-01. Shame, it was an innovative little beast.

Yikes. If you have a leveling adatper below it is an unnecessary additional bit of weight and complexity. In a pinch though I guess...

Fingers crossed they clear out. :-) I have a love hate relationship with Novovlex stuff. Beautiful and clever, but always something that bugs me in practice. Full Disclaimer... I haven't tried the slim. I have tried the Nodal Ninja and found those really thin designs always seem to flex a bit for my tastes. The RRS is so rock solid, lighter and half the price. It folds and clamps to itself too in a flash. I find that with the latest mirrorless I can see the bright stars and planets as my eyes adjust down to overlap star panos on the back LCD or viewfinder even with them turned all the way down. No need even for the red light. It's a brave new world. Since Iive view I don't do much degree indexing. I just overlap by 75% watching the grid display to be safe and use the center sweet spot of the projection. If I did, I think the Novoflex pano 48 base you have on that system looks fabulous, but I wish it had an arca machined base like the RRS setup and didn't cost as much as the whole RRS PG-01 with the lever clamp.

@@HudsonHenryPhoto ho do you set up the level luminosity of the LCD during night shoot? thanks

@@HudsonHenryPhoto All I did is screwed on a Arca Swiss plate to the bottom, that way I can use atop the Video rig or my tripod with the arca swiss attachment. For night MW no real need for parallaxing, but I do put the entrance of lens over center and also before going out to be sure lens is looking at the bubble centered, that you included in your video (great). It does need better camera attachment and a stepper on the vertical post. But now with a smaller camera and lenses the Noflex should be sturdy enough. Nice for portrait or landscape using a L bracket. Even using NR and a SS of NPF accurate for 14mm f/1.8 of 8 to 10 s you can click during the NR so 10 frames +/- 80s. I have been following and went to video head, thanks to you life at night was better and leveling sweet, You have your gear and mine no difference in operations to get the shot. I started doing MW's with the Sony A7s and the FE 1018 f/4 at 12mm in Full frame in 2014. Now the A7iii and 1224 f/2.8 and the three little primes. For all panos I follow you to learn the most. Gear is getting smaller and lighter will be easier on our old backs. Keep it going strong. Thanks for Serving during our times, Your contributions are helping the many! Stay safe and your families Too!

Never realized BUT getting the parallax set helps with foreground/ground and sky objects. I was doing some beach shots with a lifeguard chair to the right and a boardwalk to the beach left and has the MW got higher I tilted the camera up on a number of single rows the result a perfect positioned and correct looking chair but a landscape single shot with a raised lens (unparallaxed position) got a distorted chair. Keep telling the parallax info even for night panos.

I dint the biggest key for that with ultra wide panos is less about parallax and more about capturing way more at the margins than you need. The distortion is always worst at the edge and cropping the edge away is a huge help.

The. Z glass all have built in corrections that apply automatically in camera RAW/LR that some folks complain about, but I find they work great. Adobe lights them up instantly, but On1 usually gets on them quick too. If you look in lens corrections in Develop do you see the profile there? I don't have that lens to check. I'm holding out for the 24-105. :)

Not much at all. It lasts all night alongside my Z7ii on that.

@@HudsonHenryPhoto Excellent. It should keep my DSLR lens from fogging in Hawaii. It is nearly ok with no heater so the low power setting should do the trick! Thanks!

It will work using the fluid head as the panning base. That's the one I have too. Be sure to level at the fluid head bubble level.

@@HudsonHenryPhoto great, thank you for the feedback!

I think RRS is prioritizing tactical stuff for government contracts. I see B&H got fed up and calls it discontinued now while RRS still lists it on their site. It's a bummer as it's uniquely cool. I avoid RRS when I can, but that product was innovative and unique. I was shocked when they just let everyone on backorder wait forever without communicating well. It's another reason I vastly prefer working with Kirk and Acratech if at all possible. Sorry to be a tease with that recommendation. I wish they were out there still.

@@HudsonHenryPhoto thanks for your reply, rrs never got back to me so I appreciate yours!

yes it does. You have to determine each focal length separately

It does for almost every lens. Yep.

If you look at the bottom of my guide, you'll see a disclaimer that the LRP-3 starts at 10 (1). I asked them to start the next version at 0. ;)

@@HudsonHenryPhoto so please give us an example. On the LRP-3 1-15 scale. When you say 124 it would be 12.4 on the current LRP-3?

Jay, it's not exactly metric sadly, but it's marked in a base 10 scale like metric. I thought it was metric to recently. I'm hoping the next version is... Think of the 1, 2, 3, 4 as centimeters. There are 10 marks between each (like a metric ruler). 1.5 cm is 15mm. I'm counting the fine marks. So the 4th mark past 5 = 54 in my terminology.

George, the scale of the LRP-3 is not metric, it is modified imperial. Each numbered marking is separated by 1/2 inch that makes each demarcation 1/20 inch. Hudson knows that this twisted my engineering-based brain when I was preparing for his pano project last Fall. Hudson's guide works for me with my Z6 and 24-70 f/4 and 14-30 f/4 Z-mount lenses. Don't fall into the trap that I fell into and overthink it. Just have faith and go with the numbers that he provides. And Jay, yes 124 equates to 12.4 on the scale. Also notice that the scale increases from right to left, so 12.4 is to the left of 12. This is the opposite of how we normally use a ruler. There must have been some logic in setting up the scale like it is, but it escapes me.

@@alaikens6353 Al- thanks for clearing this up. Yes I was reading it backwards. I have been placing the mark right instead of left!!