Bingo.

Thanks! Some pretty major upgrade video coming real soon.

I had a ‘11 xdrive 335i that I ran BC Racing coilovers on. I personally think if you have the extra money over springs and shocks that’s the way to go. Having a shock that’s specifically valved for the spring rate you’re running is more important than most people realize.

same question I have - thank you for your reply :)

Thanks for the detailed comment. Although I don’t say yes or no, I think I sum up my opinions on this mod pretty directly. To me it’s seems like your rationale is anecdotal, more than you’re providing any reasoning behind why you think they’re better than the stock, non M components. That’s not a knock on your assessment, just simply pointing it out. I also have an anecdotal comment on my video, where I explain that I added M3 control arms to another 335i of mine, along with SF inserts (which is crucially important.) I didn’t really feel much in the way of any handling benefits, at all really. That car was more stiff under acceleration but that’s almost certainly attributed to the SF being stiffened up by the inserts and not the control arms. So in summary the only difference between these sets of CAs is the M3 arms are negligibly lighter and the lower arm (guide rod) has a ball joint on the inside position instead of a bushing. The bow in the M3 CAs, as another commentator pointed out, is to tune the stiffness so that the CAs break or bend in an accident, to keep other larger more expensive components safe. There is also a very good write up on one of the forums where someone goes into extreme detail on all of this while using a shock dyno to test the strength of both sets of CAs. To me you experienced a significant difference because your old CA bushings were probably shot (high mileage) and the resulting toe/camber changes under load were corrected by the newer fresh bushings. I personally think you could’ve had the same noticeable results by simply replacing your CAs with new non M ones. The only reason I would recommend buying M3 CAs is if you’re doing a full suspension build, like I did, and want to have as many soft bushing replaced by either ball joints or poly/solid. In my opinion the best option for CAs on this platform, both M and non M, would be fully adjustable ones with FK bearing type rod ends (which I already plan to switch to.) Thanks again for the comment

That sounds like a solid set up honestly. It’ll put that massive increase in power down that’s for sure. I was going to go Wavetrac but once I saw the Ford 8.8 kit, I just had to go for it.

I have a similar setup. Only difference is i have the Bilstein r8 on front and back. Which urethane top bushing did you settle on (or are looking at). Also do you have any size recommendations for the front sway bar link?

The M3 rear lower control arm (spring perch) is different from the non-M cars because the shock mounting is bolt through and thus solid. Non-M have the shock mounted basically to a cheap rubber block which allows a ton of flex and movement. The actual rubber spring mount between the two isn’t much different. To make my car more solid than an M car I have an AKG spherical bearing lower mount, which replaces the rubber block. Also my 3DM Motorsports kit doesn’t use the rubber spring mount. It ditches it in favor of a combination of polyurethane and rubber spacers/shims and Swift thrust sheets.

Yeah that was just a stab in the dark I took while going over the potential reasoning M would’ve used in engineering a completely new control arm. I don’t pretend to know their reasoning. I would not recommend them as some game changer mod, the way others do. It actually makes me laugh that anyone would think a noticeable change would occur from the mod. However I do like that both arms are now linked to the subframe with a ball joint.

@@midwestbmw1292 I would agree, the upper control arm probably doesn’t even see that much force if you think about it, it’s (mostly) only controlling camber. The guide rod is where there could be a material benefit in switching the bushing with another spherical bearing, with accompanying NVH. I swapped my subframe bushings to solid mounts, and did spherical bearings on the toe arms and trailing arms and it made a huge difference but haven’t been back to the track yet. I didn’t touch the upper or guide rod though so that might help answer your question.

@@snivesz32 I’m not surprised to read you had a big difference from other mods while keeping the stock control arms. I haven’t done the video detailing my complete suspension mod list, but it’s coming soon. I did the trailing arm ball joint conversion as well, along with M3 sf mounts and adjustable toe arms from SPL. In fact the only thing I didn’t change was the inner swing arm to sf mount because it’s stiff enough (same one used on the M3). The downside of doing all the mods at once is that I won’t be able to properly isolate the benefits, or lack of benefits for each mod, aside from maybe the coilovers.

Yeah they’ll bolt right up.

Thanks! I’m curious to hear your thoughts on why the inserts aren’t a good option? I did the 034 Motorsport inserts on my 335xi and it made a world of difference. With the subframe currently out of the car I could really go with any option I want, with regard rob subframe bushings. The only reason I planned to go with inserts is due to the positive experience I had with them in the past. But...the guy I consulted about my suspension upgrades recommended the M3 version, too. I guess I’d just like to hear solid reasoning as to why they’re better than inserts for the stockers.

@@midwestbmw1292 I've driven my friends 335 e90 with inserts (forgot the brand) and yes they are way better than stock but when we did a 3rd gear pull I could still feel a little wobble from the rear end. It still feels unpredictable too. It's just not solid enough. I'm using the bimmerworld solid aluminium ones and the wobble or unpredictable feeling is gone. Also, nvh is not noticable. The stock m3 bushings same thing but I think it's a more comfortable ride with them. Basically I feel every pebble/bump on the street with mine (I occasionally track my car too) compare to the one with m3 bushings. I think with the m3 ones you'd be really happy for performance and with how comfortable it is.

@@in54ne82 thanks. Solid reasoning. It kind of makes me what to buy inserts and M3 bushings to do a comparison between stock, stock w/ inserts and M3. I had originally planned on doing solid aluminum subframe bushings but got scared away by the potential increase in NVH. However from what I’ve been hearing you’re more likely to notice an increase in NVH when using harder diff bushings. I have a few more weeks before my LSD comes in so maybe I’ll spend that time contemplating on which SF bushings to go with.

@@midwestbmw1292 Sounds good. You have the whole thing apart mind as well have it done it's way easier to do those bushings off the car. What's the purpose build for the car? Track use or both street and track? Dual purpose I'd do the solid, for mostly street the m3 ones. Bushings and lsd will make the car a blast to drive you won't regret it.

@@in54ne82 it will likely live on street far more than at the track but I’m building it with track use in mind. There’s a reason that SF bushings are the last suspension mod left for me to purchase and it centers around the exact conversation you and I are having. I’ve been doing some more reading this morning, and based on our back and forth I think the M3 ones are the route I’ll take. Especially given that you’re not the only person who’s told me it’s the way to go. Worst case scenario I can always swap them out for minimal $$ and a weekend in the garage. 🤷🏻‍♂️. Thanks again for your input!

It’s the Bentley manual for non M E9x chassis. I picked mine up on ebay used. www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw=Bmw+3+Series+2006-2010+325+328+330+335+Service+Repair+Manual+Hardcover+Like+New&_id=284105264004&

I got them through FCP Euro a few years back and cannot remember the brand. The M logo was scratched off for whatever reasons they have to be able to sell them.

I believe the front control arms yielded better results than the rears. The front M3 lower control arm adds extra negative camber over the stock non-M control arm. Also I added the Turner Monoball in the front upper control arm, which made the most noticeable difference. Remember the only thing different about the front upper control arm (thrust arm) is the bushing material in it. The arm itself is identical across all RWD models on the E9x chassis. So you could in theory keep your existing thrust arm and simply replace the bushing in it with whatever aftermarket bushing/bearing you’d prefer. For me, I went with the top of the line Monoball.

@@midwestbmw1292 I have an m3 rear end on my 335is with m3 control arms in the rear and poly bushings. If I decided to keep the front control arms stock could I run aftermarket m3 coilovers front and rear. Or would I have to change the front control arms to M3 ones in order for the coilovers to be compatible.

As long as you have the COMPLETE M3 rear suspension, including the lower control arm (spring perch) then the rears will mount for sure. The fronts will likely mount but may require different end links, I’m assuming you could get away without running the M3 front control arms but I wouldn’t if I were going that route. I would go with coilovers developed for a 335i as there are plenty of great options out there to choose from without any of the unknowns.

@@midwestbmw1292 So 335i coilovers are compatible with the m3 rear end that I have? I could simply just get 335i coilovers and be done?

You’d need to switch the lower control arm (spring perch) back to the 335i version and the rear 335i coil over kit will bolt right up to the M3 rear suspension. The M3 rear shock uses an eyelet style mount at the bottom, whereas the 335i doesn’t. That’s the reason you’d have to switch back to the 335i perch, because of how the lower rear shock mounts. Everything else is the same. In order to get an “M3 quality” mounting point you could buy AKG lower shock mount, which has a spherical bearing in it. That’s what I have on mine.

I no longer have my other 335i, which was AWD. The X-Drive cars have the exact same rear suspension setup as RWD 335i, so any rear suspension components that fit a RWD car will also fit an AWD variation. The front suspension is the only area that differs.

@@midwestbmw1292 thank you....

it says 335is. IS wasn't offered in awd

Bentley manual.

The 335is has the M sport suspension that came on the regular 335i with the M sport package. The 335is has the following items that make it standout •N54 with increased output (better factory tune) •DCT transmission option •Better cooling through added transmission and oil coolers, and ducting. •Performance Exhaust w/ black tips •Unique rear valance •Blacked out trim •335is badging on exterior/interior

The front lower control arm will allow more negative camber because it is longer. It also has a ball joint instead of a rubber bushing, where it connects to the subframe. The only difference in the front upper control arm is a slightly stiffer bushing in the M variant. You could in theory just buy a stiffer bushing for your existing front upper control arm, press it in, and have it be as stiff or stiffer than the M variant. I went with the Monoball in my front upper control arm which is the pinnacle of what can be done to the E9x front suspension

@@midwestbmw1292 so would that actually be possible? But seems like what your saying it would jus be better to change the bushings in them. I do need a bit of help I’m trying to find all the other ball/joints and bushes that will need replacing in the rear and for upgraded ones to, if any chance could give links to all the bushes I’d appreciate it. Except sway bars, so all control arms and trailing bushes. Please I’ve been struggling for hours trying to list them all out :(

@@drizzeysmith9699 if you look on all my video descriptions you’ll see my mod list and where I got the items. It’s not links but it will give you what you need. One thing I’ve added this summer that is not on my mod list is Rev Shift trailing arms. They have cut down on the amount of movement in the rear under hard acceleration.

E9x chassis only.

@@midwestbmw1292E8x too