awesome, saw this AFTER cutting the tube DOH! No problems with 23mm as of yet but you might want to change the text in the video as this is the first result in google for "sidewinder x1 heat break replacement"

Im gonna second James comment... i appreciate the video, happening by the comment after Ive cut the ptfe and reassembled everything... :/

Yeah would be nice if you included a textbox with that info, won't take long I bet. Nevertheless, I notices Artillery ships a spare PTFE tube so it's not that bad if you mess up cutting the original one ;)

Thanks for the guide tho. It's the best one out there so far. I went Bi-Metal with my X1 and like it.

Martin Hi, I have two bi-metal here (threded and smooth), it performance well with PLA? And looks like this X1 from Calvin have a treaded one, but in the comments of TriangleLab many Artillery users pointed to the smooth heatbreak. Maybe Artillery changed it during the versions? I’ve a v4 one... thanks!

THANK YOU!!!! I thought I was dead in the water when the heat break snapped off. Never occurred to me to look on the other side of the plate. I can't thank you enough.

@@dumbofliesvermont5684 i think there are not enough videos on maintenance of the artillery sidewinder on KZfaq. Like 1000 review vids, but clear instructions videos on every maintenance topic are hard to find

I would be lying if I said I never made mistakes doing it... that said always keep spares and hope it works out for you. Generally speaking, once you get a swap dealt with, you do not have to go back and touch it!

Thanks Rhys, Good to know about the metal fan bracket, and I don't expect people to follow my videos to a T but use it more as a guide. That being said it is not a super easy process but if it is done right, it only has to be done once!

Wish I had seen your comment earlier! Was surprised to find it like this, but now I assembled it with a whole lot of thermal paste as well. Did you notice any problems? Does the PTFE tube become too hot in high temp prints?

I switched to an all metal heat break so my PTFE tube is shorter, I did switch to Capricorn tubing since I'm printing some ABS. But I discovered that the new smooth bore plate is compatible with the Kraken/Chimera heat breaks which is also a smooth cylinder on the outside. No need to put loads of paste in there any more.

Man, i wish I saw this sooner. Ended up buying an entirely new extruder as I replaced my heatblock and had no idea why it was sitting loose. Once I got the new one, I disassembled the old one and saw the grub screw holes :'(

To swap the PTFE out you have two options: Take off the extruder side cover and pull the PTFE tube out that way, it may help if you warm the hotend up as some filament may be "sticking" to the PTFE and make removal/reinsertion a pain. An alternative method is to unscrew the whole heater assembly from the extruder and swap it that way. Just be mindful of the heater block wires that they don't short when you reinstall the assembly and that the heat sensor is not damaged. It is a delicate unit!

@@MakeItWithCalvinSuccessfully replaced it by removing the heating block. Thank you again!

One caveat to that is the fact that you will destroy any hardening on the nozzle and run the risk of melting it. I usually store my nozzles in acetone to help break down the filament while it soaks.

@@MakeItWithCalvin - As long as you cool them you dont have to worry about ruining the hardening. It takes a number of cycles for it to have any measurable impact on its integrity- you will wear the nozzle out long before that happens. Brass can only be "hardened" by working it- and most stock used for nozzles isnt to begin with. I run casting foundries and blacksmithing so Ive had a long time to ruin metals. (laughs) "Red" (or even slightly less) is far from its melting point. Dont be afraid to super clean those nozzles.

Normal causes include: Temp sensor lose, shorting or dying. Lots of fan blowing onto the heater block during printing can cause it to error out Connections not plugged correctly. In my case, I had my machine temp error due to an intermittent connection between the thermistor and the wires going bad due to a break inside the heatshrink. I swapped the temp sensor and that did the trick. Temp sensors do not live forever so I tell people to keep at least one spare on hand, just in case!

Hey, I'm also looking to buy the all metal hotend, do you know if I need to order the threaded one or the smooth version? My printer is the v4

@@kennymahadewsing1582 As far as I have seen around the forums the v4 is the kraken style like on the Genius. Better Google it at make sure, but I'm 99%

Yeah you are replacing the one that seals the tube against the nozzle (PTFE design) for one that seals against the metal of the break itself.

I think I may redo the video at some point with some improved advice ;-). As for not going in all the way that sounds like some gunk in the block which happens which is why cleaning it up with a tap or inserting it hot is a good idea. As for block orientation just do what works for you. I would not worry too much about the LED board. If it bugs you, a silicone sock may not be a bad idea. Overall block orientation does not matter as long as it is not hitting things it should not be. I hope that helps you out some! I wish there was a hard and fast rule to all this but it is a little bit of a do what works for you situation.

No gunk, my machine has never been used. The nozzle is not threaded all the way down to base. You can see the nozzle on the TH3D site. Here's a link to an image showing how my installation looks - s.amsu.ng/TkbJr3hX1rQN. With the way it's sitting, not sure I'll have enough room to install a silicone sleeve since the edge of the LED board is almost touching the heater block. Any way I can get this to sit closer to the way it was originally (with long side sitting side-to-side)? Maybe by installing a washer between the upper threads of the heat break and the heat sink block? Also note the space above the base of the nozzle. Would rather get it aligning as it was originally if possible. Totally understand that it's up to me but just want to be sure I'm not doing anything that may damage the printer. Thanks for your help.

Hi Christopher may you Link to me the urls for buying your upgrade parts? Thanks

They get applied to the "cold" end, the one that goes into the extruder/block. You do not need anything fancy for the thermal paste, just something with a high thermal transfer rate. It also helps to put a little on the heatsink and extruder body to aid in the heat getting out!

Yours is the latest revision of heatbreak which does not screw in at the top. The procedure stays almost the same with the exception of that revision. If I can get my hands on that setup I will do an updated video on it.

@@MakeItWithCalvin Ok cool. I have ordered the other style heat-break now without the threads. then I should get good thermal contact with the heat sink. Thanks for your quick response.

@@MakeItWithCalvin yes i did the same but broke mine as i didn't see the 2 little screws before it was to late

It was a filming afterthought... trust me, it happens a lot ;-)

I understand the concept but never saw a need for me but will give it a try for the sake of experimentation. The machine uses a volcano style heater.

It also helps to keep filament off the heater block which helps it to have better thermal properties. I know the heater is a Volcano type, but there are several versions of volcanoes. The V1 has the nozzle close to the edge, the V2 is further back. It looks lika a V1. Just interested to see if you knew for sure.

@@christopherlyons7613 I have seen other versions but not familiar with minor changes. The machine does what I need so it works for me. The other changes are icing on the cake.

@@christopherlyons7613 i think V1 is the one you look for.. I have heard it said that the sock helps keep a steady heat in the heat block which i'm not sure if it needs that. Maybe if the part cooling duct blew on it more directly.. I think the main purpose of it though is to help stop radiant heat from the block reaching what you have printed.. A lot of people get great results with or without and I have never seen anyone demonstrating a comparison. Let alone if the comparison would show a difference. That said, I got a v1 sock and put a slice down the back for the thermistor wires to go through so they aren't being bent at a weird angle, and it keeps my block clean. Didn't have any problems before installing it though.

The volcano clone on the X1 is a V1 clone not a v2 clone, hence most silicone socks out there for the Volcano dont fit well because most are the V2 heat socks. Any one know where I can get volcano v1 style heat sock?

Where you mention not being able to fully tighten the heat block and at it's tightest it sits sideways, usually it 'lock' in when the nozzle is meeting it. By that I mean (at least in my case), if you loosen the nozzle a bit, the heat block loosens at the top and you can screw it in a bit further, then tighten the nozzle again.. The mothod I found is don't tighten the nozzle until you screw the heat block to about 1/8ths of a turn from it's final position. You then screw the nozzle in until it is just touching the heatbreak inside. At that point, turn the block again and it will immediately get tight. It is weird how it works but as soon as the nozzle is tightened, the heatblock is tightened too. So you can play around with when you screw the nozzle against the heat break, and thus adjust where the heatblock faces when it is screwed in tight. Regarding the nozzle, it does not need to butt up against the heat block,,, only the inside thread part must meet the thread of the heatbreak inside... thid means you may even still see a thread between your nozzle and heatblock when tightened, but this is good and means the nozzle is most likely sealed against the heatbreak. If your nozzle is able to tighten against the heat block, it could mean that the heatbreak is too high and they didn't end up touching each other.. It takes some playing with, but watching enough videos and experimenting, you'll get it.

tinymachines3d.com/ is where I ordered mine. They seem to have several Sidewinder parts.

Artillery3D has a really great customer support! If you still have warranty, write them kindly and they will be happy to help. I had problems with my hotend, sent them pictures and they sent me a new one. Theytold me it will take long for shipment, but it arrived soon later.

If you going to replace it suggest one of these style www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07Q82LDKD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 why replace it with the same flimsy thermistor. Basically you screw it into the hole that the thermistor screw goes into and the other end simply plugs in like you old one. Check this vid out kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sLyKprpn07SpgI0.html there is a US version as well.

When you tighten the nozzle up after assembly, that's what tightens up the heat-break too. It is the seal between the bottom of the break and the top of the nozzle that stops things wobbling/oozing and turning into a mess.

@@MakeItWithCalvin ah thank you!

@@wskwong2000 np, I may do a video explaining this...

Cover that here! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/h9KhmreTktS6nKM.html Best to check as part way through production they switched to the threadless break which I personally prefer!

Here the look at the smooth one all metal bi metallic according to E3D Kraken specs that people have been using it's the same dimensions www.aliexpress.com/item/4000698566141.html?aff_platform=portals-tool&sk=_dZp60eu&aff_trace_key=8ce84251810d41569ed3326bca124e91-1592348084280-01203-_dZp60eu&terminal_id=ee8b2b9fe6e841658a4d8c58864a01d3&tmLog=new_Detail&aff_request_id=8ce84251810d41569ed3326bca124e91-1592348084280-01203-_dZp60eu

If you look up Tom's 3DP he covers the topic... I am hesitant to do a video on it as it is very easy to make things worse vs better...

@@MakeItWithCalvin ok...its just my english its not good enough to understand their tutorial with technical language

This is all speculation but from what I've heard people saying the ptfe tube used is not the best and considering Capricorn makes the gold standard of ptfe tubing it would be an upgrade especially if you need to print around 250C regularly. That said I don't know if I personally would or would recommend tearing apart the entire hotend just to replace the tube if that's all you're replacing.

as long as it has the exact same outside and inner diameter I dont see why not. I thought capricorn tubing had a slightly thinner outside diameter but i could be wrong

Yes/no. This is an outdated method of changing breaks but the concept stays the same.

@@MakeItWithCalvin but if i get the same type of parts it will work in the genius. correct?

You can also heat it up with a heat gun and peel the plastic off... Bit faster than waiting on a replacement.

Calvin Witt yes, I’m gonna put it back together and try that.

Is it an issue not running one? I have not had any issues without one and do have one I could install but I am always worried it will fall off.

Meh, run the TI one with no issues for months on this and my HicTop. I understand the science of the bimetal but honestly I think it is more "bling bling" than anything. But if someone wants to send one, be my guest I will gladly try it out!

@@MakeItWithCalvin I've got a spare how do I contact you to send?

If you have the v4, it is because the heatbreak is not threaded. It is held in place by two grub screws. I know because I just worked on my v4 tonight.

Yea I broke mine twisting it out...

It never came out

I have a video showing how to tell which one you have ;-)...

Yeah. That bit me in the ass too. Now that I'm aware, some things make a lot more sense, but when searching for "Artillery X1 V4 Heatbreak Replacement", this video is the first to show up.

probably because v4 uses no threaded heartbreak, you can find smooth Trianglelab Bi-Metal Heatbreak for e3D v6

Why do you say that? As of the time of release, lots of people have this style machine. I do not knowingly own one with the new style. If you want to buy me the parts to do an updated video, please contact me.

Yup it's not his fault and it's bound to be helpful for those with V1, V2, V3 Sidewinders. I've order some bi metallic non screw types from China that should fit in about a months time I'll see if I can master making a basic video :o), At least Calvin is the only one with this type of video out