Where and how do I enter these settings

@@rockman49erwhen you go into cura hit settings then go to printer then add printer then printer settings and you should see the command line window on the bottom. You can also look up how to do it as well is you’re more of a visual person but it’s super simple in cura.

Artillery does so many things right. They still don't like me after I botched their Artillery hornet review. That thing was actually really nice, but I thought it sucked. The bowden setup on it is so good it performs with near direct-drive retraction lengths. So I gave it a bad review. Then a week later someone told me to try lowering the retractions, and it had amazing print quality. I felt dumb, but that is part of the 3d printing experience!

Makes sense really, simpler machine simple to fix, you would have to spend about another 100 to 200+ bucks to get Cheaper Ender style and then Upgrade it to do what this machine can do. That why everybody Starts at an Ender and then quickly moves up to a bigger and better machine.

Interesting, I wonder if you can replace it with a BL-TOUCH

I picked up 2 SW replacement bed levelers and am now on the last one , when/if that fails I will use the BL touch . Thank you for the reply

@@bloodyfinger5 did you fix your bed level issues? I haven’t been able to get a consistently good print and Geekbuying support is giving me the run around :/

@@johngomez900 Not really , other than what I mentioned . I do have a BL-touch that I bought during a sale that I foresee myself using . I'll be sticking with Creality for better or worse from now on . Good Luck

@@johngomez900 something that helped me after Months of not being able to get the bed to level properly..make sure your Saving to the Eprom after it Auto bedlevels ( after you manually leveled the bed.!) Also I upgraded the Springs on the level wheels to Solid Silicone Spacers you level, 1x and you don't have to touch it again! like 7 to 10 bucks on amazon.

I'm not sure about the fuse situation. I assume it has one, but I haven't actually checked.

Just go with the Genius Pro.

Yes, it has.

Nice, this is a much better value. The Ender 3 S1 has more room for modding, but this one works better out of the box IMO, and is cheaper.

Belt tensioners are overrated IMO. I've never adjusted the belt tension of my machines, except for during initial setup, but then again, I'm not printing 24/7. On this machine you loosen a bolt, pull on the pulley, and retighten, only takes 30 seconds.

Yes, the same tricks of lowering temp and decreasing nozzle size will help, but there is an inherent advantage to using a smaller melt zone, and if all you're going for is small details, there are better options out there. Prusa I3 mk3S would be nice, also the Ender 3 S1 would probably be better for this specific application. The large bed will also be working against you for small prints, as the bed is heavier and will require more power to heat. There is a smaller version of the printer, called the Artillery Genius. You could get that and put a standard sized hotend on there and it would probably be great for your application. Also, you can upgrade to a BondTech LGX extruder, which comes with a new hotend for about $200. I just bought one and have been playing with it. Quite spendy, but it would probably be one of the best setups out there.

I have another video called hotends 101 which has some good info on the pros and cons of volcano. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/otWhnreUldXDgqc.html

Yeah that is the trade off. If you don’t plan on modding, this is hands down a better printer out of the box. If you want to hack and mod, it’s hard to beat the Ender lineup

You can alternate between the 2 sizes without having to do a nozzle change. It's a nice trick for lazy people.

@@NathanBuildsRobots thanks, nice one

Most all printers have the same level of detail when printing. The biggest factor is nozzle size and print speed. Turn the speed down to have the details come through more clearly.

@@NathanBuildsRobots Thanks, ya earned your like

You can try a 0.2 mm nozzle if you need more detail.

The original S1 I have works pretty well, but I have put some mods on it. New part cooling fan, new heater block, new spring steel bed, and nozzle. It's working pretty nicely now. The S1 Plus is the real problem child, it won't even level the bed so I'm waiting on a fix from Creality 😞 Eventually I'll just turn it into a Klipper machine if they can't come out with a fix for it, but it's far from ideal.

@@NathanBuildsRobots I'm trying to upgrade from and E3 pro, im looking for something in the $450 and below price range cause everything is on sale. Any suggestions aside from the sidewinder (I like that one a lot)

@@gabrielmcanuff2206 I like the aquila of trying to spend as close to $0 as possible. You save a bunch of $ and have a huge budget for upgrades of you feel like doing a lot of tinkering. I liked the longer LK5, but the Sidewinder is only a little more expensive and has a lot more features so I'd still pick the Sidewinder over it.

@@NathanBuildsRobots I'll look into those. Keep up the good work!

@@NathanBuildsRobots when does the coupon code on the description expire?

Dooo it! My only gripe about Artillery printers is, at least on the Artillery Hornet I reviewed prior, is that flashing the firmware takes a couple more steps. You have to download some software from STM, and plug a jumper into the mainboard. Then hook up over USB and send the firmware. But if you just want to print and do light modding, you shouldn't need to flash firmware. So for the target audience I think it's a non-issue. Dual drive gear extruder would have been nice, but or the price and size, it's hard to complain. Its direct drive and has auto bed-leveling, which make a bigger difference than the dual gear.

@@NathanBuildsRobots Yeah, I dig it...and your new wall! ;)

That is an issue someone pointed out to me after the review. I don't do color changes so it didn't occur to me to test it out. I'll look into 3rd party firmware. I'm planning on doing some light modding on this machine, so I'll look at changing the extruder and seeing if there's any 3rd party firmware out there. Will also ask my contact at Artillery about this. I did not have any issues with bed leveling, you may have to calibrate the z probe offset. Have you tried that yet?

This looks promising, will check it out in a future video www.thingiverse.com/thing:5186707

@@NathanBuildsRobots thanks for the reply! I actually wasn’t intending on stopping for color changes but rather to cancel failed prints. Update: it was cancelling prints it was just taking longer than I had experienced on other printers I am leveling corners, then setting z offset, then bed level, and saving to EEPROM. And in the gcode, I use M420 S1 Z10 as I had seen that suggested to others but the nozzle is scraping and I'm not getting good bed adhesion.

@@NathanBuildsRobots if I buy this machine will it come with the firmware update it already or do I have to do this also also does CURA recognize this printer ?

I would pick the Artillery Sidewinder. Check the Geekbuying link in the video description - the Artillery is about $100 less than the Ender 3 s1. The Ender 3s are project printers. If you like working on the printer and customizing it, you might like it. But once you factor in all of the upgrades, the Ender 3 S1 ends up costing an extra $100.

@@NathanBuildsRobots awesome good stuff man thank you, yeah I've heavily modded an ender 3 v2 to the poijts it's barely even an ender anymore but these days I don't have as much time to tinker so I figured the X2 would be the better choice

That is a good question. I will have to look at that more closely. I have some mods planned for this machine. To answer your question though, it looks like it would be more trouble than it's worth, unless you made a special heatbreak that was longer, so the same spacing was maintained.

@@NathanBuildsRobots Thanks for the reply! I appreciate your videos because they're informative and funny. I might not fully understand everything you're talking about at this point but I'm getting there. Right now I think this X2 is going to be my first project.

@@dwarrenmsp nice, it's a good starting point

Let me put it this way... i severed the hotend cable on my Ender 3 S1 Pro because Mr Clicky needed it, and I don't feel any remorse.

Yeah, I’d upgrade to a CHC pro with all metal heatbreak, then it would need new firmware to increase the max temperature. All in it would require about $50 in parts and an afternoon of messing with firmware.

Almost too quick!

You could cook with it!

@@NathanBuildsRobots Well,an omelette between prints sounds cool

These machines aren't exactly comparable. Artillery is significatly queieter, has a larger build volume, and is less than half the price. Plus you don't have to be on the cloud here, privacy is an advantage IMO.

@@NathanBuildsRobots I was comparing the Artillery Sidewinder X1 with the Artillery Sidewinder X2. Hence my list of fixes.

@@Tensquaremetreworkshop Oh, my bad. You typed S1, but I thought you were talking about the P1P. Misunderstandings all around. Yeah good points, I didn't try the X1, but this seems to be a very well rounded machine.

www.stlfinder.com/3dmodels/Push+Dagger/

I use the built-in profile in PrusaSlicer. Its still going strong, planning on upgrading it soon. I've been using it as my main printer and have printed over 100 objects with it so far.

Bed level was dead even, it was a firmware or motherboard bug. Swapped out motherboards and it's working now

Haven't experiments that myself, but I'd just replace it with a CR-Touch if I had any issues. This machine is so cheap that even with that cost factored in, it's still much cheaper than anything else. But I've printed over 100 parts and have had no issues

I just got the S1 working. Kind of annoying to have to fix printers straight out of the box!

@@NathanBuildsRobots very much agree

The Artillery Sidewinder and the Ender 3 S1 are my favorites that I've tried. Both come with auto bed leveling and a direct drive extruder, which you should expect at that price point. Main differences are that the Artillery is quieter and has a bigger build area The Ender 3 S1 has a larger modding community, and a nicer extruder. The bed surface is different too, but I liked them both so I can't say one is better than the other.

I cant do the same gag every time! but I promise I'll do it again in another video, just for you.

Someone said to add a wait timer at the begin GCode, so it will pause before beginning the print. It was really only an issue when I pushed a print all the way to the corner of the bed. You're kind of asking for trouble printing in that area. When I backed up a bit from the very edge of the bed corners, I didn't have any issues.

It has a ptfe lined hotend, you won't be able to go above 240C. As such it can only do low temperature nylons. Come to think of it, I would like to upgrade this machine to have a direct-drive all metal hotend. Will have to do a follow-up modding video.

@@NathanBuildsRobots cool! looking forward to it

Nice, it’s a great value printer

It's only a con when you have to do a lot of Z travel, like during bed probing and if Z hop on retraction is enabled. If you have it set up without those settings, you wouldn't notice the lower Z speed all that often.

I like the Ender 3 S1 more than the S1 pro. This one is bigger and a little easier to use, but Ender 3s always have more aftermarket support for mods. So it depends on what you're after

@@NathanBuildsRobots first time at 3d printing so yes, ease of use is my primary goal to get started. Cheers mate.

How much would that printer cost? I might be getting a super cheap Klipper printer pretty soon. Basic cheap build with Klipper UI under 300, what do you think?

@@NathanBuildsRobots I think there are too many budget machines on the market, I want something in the £800 -£1200, $1000-$1500 range with all quality parts, I already have a Core XY, I built a Pro 3D V-King 400 but I dont use Klipper I have a Duet 3 running RepRap and Octoprint with all self sourced best quality parts and the difference is amazing once I got it all running how I wanted it it just continues to work perfectly unlike my Creality machines that always need attention. But I am printerless at the moment as I am working away from home in the Netherlands and it seems as though I could be here for some time so I just ordered a Kingroon KP3S Pro as I miss my machines so much.

@@NathanBuildsRobots A LOT. basic cost of a Voron 2.4 BOM like the OP outlines is north of $K in parts.

@@NathanBuildsRobots did you ever get the under $300 klipper printer? I haven't seen anything about it. Who makes it?

@@jeffreyepiscopo yes, it's the Buqu hurakan. It's quite good, I just set it up last weekend and have been testing it. Unfortunately it's closer to 400. Hopefully they drop the price soon. I imagine it will go on sale around $300 eventually. I think there is a lot of demand for it because there really isn't anything like it on the market right now. Even at its current price I think it's worth it.

en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autism_spectrum

@@NathanBuildsRobots don't know what that's supposed to mean I just find the noise simply not a big deal Machines make noise .That's all

@@charlesrestivo870 Oh, its just that people with autism can be especially sensitive to noises. There could be a correlation.

@@NathanBuildsRobots have no idea what your talking about .The whole noise thing is consistently mentioned that's what l mean and I find it overblown What autism has in common with the comment of a noisey printer and my comment that is seems overdone . MAKES no sense but be well enjoy the noise means your ears are working .

I would agree with that actually. Which makes the price disparity even greater. The CR10 has the issue of no direct drive extruder. I just posted a video on the Ender 3 Plus. It is solidly "OK"

Part cooling is better than an Ender 3 (i know, its not saying much). Its easy to use out of the box, which was refreshing, because the last 2 things I've unboxed has serious quality issues that are delaying a proper review.

@@NathanBuildsRobots ender 3 is the bottom of the market , they are not horrible often like with many printers they just need proper squaring and dialing in , none of them really work out of the box, the only one that kinda is that bamboolab x1 although im kinda skeptical with their firmware and glitches that reported , rather build ratrig

My S1 and S1 Pro are working pretty well, but I'm having issues on my S1 Plus. I think they used a different chip, or haven't sorted out the firmware yet for the plus.

@@NathanBuildsRobots You might be on to something. More investigation is needed 🧐🤣

Last

Yes and yes, It's a nice printer. Not the most moddable, but it's the cheapest 300x300 printer that prints nicely and doesn't need upgrades out of the box.

@@NathanBuildsRobots If that's the case then let the printer sell itself. Don't sugar-coat its shortcomings and don't misrepresent it in any way. There are some very obvious issues with it that you make no mention of even though you're clearly an experienced user. You should never leave yourself open to your integrity or motivations being suspect, because you'll never win that trust back.