Ascent on Piz Bernina 17.-18.8.2023.
Route: (9:00) Campo Moro-Rifugio Carate Brianza- Rifugio Marinelli Bombardieri (13:00)- second day (4:00) Rifugio Marinelli Bombardieri- Passo Marinelli- Vedretta di Scersen Superiore- Canalone di Crast´Aguzza- Riffugio Marco e Rosa- Spallagrat- Piz Laspalla (14:00)- same way to Marco e Rosa- new via ferrata- same way to Campo Moro (23:00).
We haven´t reached summit of Piz Bernina, because several unfavorable conditions combined.
Do not use Canalone di Crast´Aguzza and old Via Ferrata. It is in bad condition and you have to climb 10m of rock to reach ferrata from glacier. New ferrata is well described at Riffugio Marinelli Bombardieli.
Glacier from Italian side is melting and covered by falling rocks. Next time I would prefer approach from Switzerland for the glacier is much nicer.