Sorry to hear that. They were pretty responsive for me regarding the plastic fitting for the tank. Here's hoping you'll get a good response.

Was about to leave the same comment. LOL... Some DIY projects require a litte research.

Thanks for the response. God bless us all! We need it!

Hi Mike, Thanks for the comments, but I think most of your suggestions would need to go to Nash Fuels as I just bought their hose kit (as one of the few vendors I could find selling kits and the only one with this type of setup). I did have them add the extra quick release on the hose though. There was someone here asking about covers for the ends, so if you have a link to a supplier, I'm sure they'd appreciate it. I haven't had time (or reason) to go looking myself yet! Thanks, Beo

That would help increase the pressure differential, although if you're relieving the pressure on the secondary tank, I'm not sure the cool water would make a noticeable difference. On the other hand, it might save a bit of wasted gas. Remember, everything cools as the pressure is released, but of course a lot of that is going out in the gas that you're letting expand!

@Lord Beowulf one other thought to save lost lp. After your done filling tanks, have one mostly empty tank to dump most of what is in the line in to. That would save. Probably 70% or more of what is lost in the wet transfer line. 0.01c

Thanks. I contacted them/him through eBay ahead of time and that's where he pointed me to the quick release for the hose. I also contacted him after the sale and he sent me the brass tank adapter in the listing, so I'm happy!

@@lordbeowulf1885 Sorry we messed that one up, thanks for working with us, great video!

@@nashfuel8580 I appreciate that you sent the replacement part. Lesser vendors might have just said it is what it is! Beo

I just received my order and I got the plastic turn know also. That must be the default.

I don't think so. They're just a pressure monitor and the pressure is all over the place as you're letting the gas out, etc. I have one of those and my experience is that it drops as the tank gets cold, not empty! I primarily use mine for burning cactus and go through a large volume of gas that freezes the tank.

Hi Mathew, Did you ensure you were getting flow from the supply tank? All valves on in the feed assembly? And the valve into the grill tank? If everything's on so that you are getting flow from the feed tank, then the most likely thing I can think of is that you may not be on the correct port on your feed tank. You have to be on the one that has a tube going down to the bottom of the tank so that you're pushing liquid out from the bottom and not just gas from the top.

The tube is part of the tank and has a check valve assembly under that cap that opens when you install the external valve. There are typically two different fittings, one for liquid (this one) and one for gas. I've heard of people connecting to the wrong one and not being able to figure out why this doesn't work!

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p55ida6f19Gcpn0.html

If I was trying to fill it to maximum, sure. However, given this was a test run and I was using that tank to burn off cactus and having to drag it around the pasture, I didn't want it full! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p5h9Y8iGttzTj4k.html😁

@@lordbeowulf1885 Maybe I don't understand how this works but when I see liquid coming out of the bleeder valve I assume that means the tank is full, therefore leaving no space for expansion. please help me understand this. Thank you

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nJeohLCA1a6plqs.html

@@wadebrinson8977 That bleeder valve he loosened at the small tank to release pressure and indicate when tank is full has a tube connected to it which sticks down in the tank (to the 80% full level) and when the level of the liquid rises up to the level of that tube it will spit liquid out indicating you are at proper full level.

That fitting is an over pressure relief valve. The only place in this setup I see where it can go is on the outlet end of the big valve that connects to the large (source) propane tank. I will open if the pressure in the hose exceeds 400psi or 27.58bar.

@@chetbodley8629 ...Thank you Sir.

Thanks. I mention that white is not the correct tape at about one minute in. Yellow is double density tape, as is blue, although blue appears to be a proprietary material from Blue Monster. Not sure where I'd seen that was the correct tape, although technically it's equivalently better than white and the manufacturer advertises it for LPG and natural gas among other things. But you're correct that from a color code (not performance) standpoint, yellow tape, like yellow pipe, is easily recognizable by inspectors as a double density tape. Much of what I've read online still recommends the use of pipe dope as well to ensure no leaks. None of this means white CAN'T work, but it requires a lot more care (and more wraps, which is probably the biggest reason joints fail -- people get in a hurry) to ensure that you get a good seal, and inspectors may fail it because they can't ensure that a good job was done. Note that the one critical place that special tape is required is for oxygen lines, which require green (no petroleum) tape.

One word. Tools. I didn't want to have to get a wrench out every time I went to use it. In hindsight, given the way the coupling works with the O-ring, I could probably have just done it finger tight and then removed the valve when not in use, but I didn't know that at the time. Also, that would imply leaving the cap loose too.

Not sure what the question is, unless you're just referring to having to stop the video while I mated the valve to the tank. Given I just pulled out my phone in the middle of assembling the kit and decided to capture this video, I could only do so when I could work one-handed.

@@lordbeowulf1885 I understand that I just want to know what you did that's all... no tripod,!?

@@gabrielchincarini7345 Not when I'm out working in the pasture and decide to record something part way through the job! =)

The bleeder on the side of the small Tank tells you that it's full it needs to remain open while filling. Especially if you don't have a scale.

We don't rent tanks around here, we buy them. However, you still need to get permission/confirmation from your propane company, as I did, since some may not want to fill the tank with a valve on there, while others will sell you the same setup for about ten times what I paid. And while yes, the bleeder allows a controlled release of the LIQUID PROPANE that is in the hose at the end of the fill, at the start with a brand new hose like I had, there is AIR (including oxygen) in the line at the start where it's a good idea to flush that out rather than pushing it into the tank. Granted, it's likely to flush out anyway as you relieve pressure on the tank, but why take that chance? Also, who knows what other contaminants I was flushing out? Regarding the relief valve, while it may not be a bad idea, the only place I was able to find a code requirement for it was for PERMANENT hose installations on the hose side of the tank valve between that an another tank/location. The idea being to protect the hose from bursting if the pressure in the hose gets too high. That shouldn't be much of an issue when just using this to top off a tank where you're relieving the pressure at the other end. If you know of another code requirement that would apply to this kit, feel free to share it.

It doesn't have anything to do with that kit. In the professional propane world, you have a gravity fed dispenser set up here. If you intend to leave the hose on 24/7, you need a relief valve installed on the liquid withdrawal valve and on the hose end valve. Given that you have a quick disconnect, i imagine you will remove the hose after use, so you wont need the relief valve. i would recommend a plug in the valve to keep th o-rings from drying out and to keep out bugs. I'd also HIGHLY recommend some liquid rated gloves as well. The part number for the relief valve should you ever want one is 3127G, manufactured by Rego. @@lordbeowulf1885

@@lordbeowulf1885 1910.110(b)(8)(i) Pipe, except as provided in paragraphs (e)(6)(i) and (g)(10)(iii), of this section shall be wrought iron or steel (black or galvanized), brass, copper, or aluminum alloy. Aluminum alloy pipe shall be at least Schedule 40 in accordance with the specifications for Aluminum Alloy Pipe, American National Standards Institute (ANSI) H38.7-1969 (ASTM, B241-69), which is incorporated by reference as specified in § 1910.6, except that the use of alloy 5456 is prohibited and shall be suitably marked at each end of each length indicating compliance with American National Standard Institute Specifications. Aluminum Alloy pipe shall be protected against external corrosion when it is in contact with dissimilar metals other than galvanized steel or its location is subject to repeated wetting by such liquids as water (except rainwater), detergents, sewage, or leaking from other piping, or it passes through flooring, plaster, masonry, or insulation. Galvanized sheet steel or pipe, galvanized inside and out, may be considered suitable protection. The maximum nominal pipe size for aluminum pipe shall be three-fourths inch and shall not be used for pressures exceeding 20 p.s.i.g. Aluminum alloy pipe shall not be installed within 6 inches of the ground.

How bout you mind your own business

@@mainelivin3699 I mean you could mind yours too. Just saying.