For a lot of us IT nerds that get in 3D printing, we often have spare ATX power supplies already laying around.

6:15 Need some random 3.3V and 5V loads to waste some Watts, you say? *FULL RGB 3D PRINTER*

You forgot the biggest reason when deciding on which one to get. What you already have. I used an atx supply for my printer cause I had one an then it's free which most people really like.

I've been watching your videos since the Printrbot days mate, when I first started getting into 3d Printing and needed something new to get into & a change in life choices. You have one of the most, no deffinitely thee most influential & invaluable teachers ever since then and helped me to turn my life around completely. I could never fully return the favor on a level that you have done for me, and you continue to teach me new things every time you make a new video. I hope to return the favor at least a little bit though and become a supporter of your channel soon, as all that I have learned from you is now helping me to finally make the career change I have dreamed of for a very long time. Thank you so very much Tom.

The industrial bricks support voltage adjustment. I am running my 12v one at 13.5V witch speeds up the heated bed by one minute.

Hey Tom, greetings! When I've build my diy 3d printer last year I've used a Thermaltake 500W ATX power supply. Got a spare PCI Express Adaptor Cable (6 Pin to PCI Express 8 Pin), cut one connector to connect the wires to the RAMPS and the other connector goes straight to the ATX power supply so I don't cut any wires on the power supply which is still under warranty ^_^ Oh and yes, I've attached the green wire of the ATX to the RAMPS, so I can turn the power supply on and off on demand. It works with the Emergency stop too. The 5V purple wire wasn't really a success for me though. The RaspberryPi was constantly getting corrupted SD card, so I switched it to dedicated power supply (the one it came with). The extra cables of the ATX are wrapped with a zip tie and hang on the side though.

I love when Tom posts this sort of "guide" content

The thing with ATX PSUs is that it's easy to get everything up to 500W Gold for 10 Euros +shipping used in good qualities, from known manufacturers and sometimes even modular. Really would have liked to see that mentioned here

You can buy a breakout board that gives you a power button and all the power conectors.

I currently use a thermaltake 500 watt atx and a 24v power supply. I use the 5vsb to power the Raspberry Pi 3b. When I turn on the power supply in Octoprint the 12v from the atx powers a relay to turn on the 24v supply. The 24v supply is used for the stepper drivers and heaters while all the fans are run off of 12 volt. I am currently using a ramps 1.6 and mega for the main board and a ramps 1.4 and mega for fans and extra temperature sensors. Im using Klipper for the firmware to tie it all together.

Tom, great information. I have known about ATX supplies in conjunction with 3d printers for several years and have actually built a hat for a Raspberry Pi in combination with a Octoprint plugin that controls the printer, Pi, LEDS, fans, etc. I have had one running for the last several years without any issue. The ATXPiHat is a one stop shop solution for ATX supplies and interfacing with 3D Printers. It started out as a small single PCB that you de-soldered the connectors from and solder them to the PI, etc. What a mess. The newer solution is plug and play. It handles all of the output muxing of the wires to handle the voltage/amperage requirements, load on the 5v rail to handle power sagging, etc. I wish that there was a 24 volt ATX solution. ATX supplies are more stable, better manufactured, and the power is much cleaner. Computers really do not like crappy power. Thanks again for the great video.

24 volts is the key factor for me. Having one power supply for the heated bed, controller board and steppers simplifies everything a great deal cable management wise, 12volts was the obvious choice in the early rep-rap days as they could grab the old ATX ones from desktop PC's but I think Prusa have demonstrated that 24v is the way forward for consumer machines.

I'm surprised a noise comparison did get a mention.

I'm custom building my CR-10 with Duet2 wifi and a super cheap used HP server PSU. Very happy with it. High efficiency, doesn't even get warm when printing with heat bed on. With a buck converter to convert 12vsb to 5v for Duet2 board and a PS_ON pin connected, I can keep the board always on while turning the main rail on / off with a single line of gcode and from GUI.

It's also worth mentioning the thing that was in view for the whole video: that fan. ATX power supplies include fans, which can be noisy, and which will circulate air in a place you may not want it circulated (because you are trying to maintain an average air temp around the bed, for example).

Tom, If I were you, I would change the title to specifically say "Power Supplies" which is more specific than "supplies'. It will help you number of views over time. Good video!!

I feel that using ATX psu's is still totally viable, as am in the process of switching from the default LED style psu's on a couple of my 12v printers with some single large 12v rail ATX psu's that I still have in boxes as ready spares for well over a year but not needed them (corsair & seasonic = excellent reliability) I wouldn't do this with some of the older pre-haswell compatible class ATX psu's as those tend to need a load on the 5v rail to maintain stability, (I have an old but perfectly functioning Enermax Noisetaker 650w psu from about 2007 which behaves like this and it wasnt a cheap psu either). If I had to use an older atx psu I would 1st check the label for how its power distribution is laid out, some very old ATX psu's tend to have most of the current dedicated to the 5v rail rather than the 12v, so after looking at the label if it had more juice on the 5v rail then I would reject it - thanks for posting

I built my printer mostly out of bits I had lying about, so I went with a Maxpower 300W ATX. I run the electronics on the 5v line to prevent auto-shutdown during hot end heat-up. I don't have a heated bed, and at 12v my motors are more powerful than the wooden frame can handle so 24v isn't required. I also don't use the standby power as I run direct from my PC with Repetier.

Working IT and building elaborate liquid cooling systems, i standardized to Seasonic power supplies about 15 years ago.

I loved the couple of times you dubbed yourself! I can't tell you how many times I wanted to do that when I was editing my videos!

My ATX computer power supply has a 12v - and 12v+ when used this way it's 24v.

I use a cooler master 600W that I got for free (hard to beat that price) 😁

Used cheap industrial 24V unit + heated bed powered by mains via an SSR. I use simple step-down converters to generate 12V and 5V lines for fans, LEDs and to supply a Raspberry Pi for OctoPrint.

Nice vid, thanks. I built a Hypercube Evo recently, using a 24V 500W industrial psu. Downside is it has an inbuilt fan which is very noisy. I disconnected the fan and stuck a couple of heat sinks on the outside and it's fine. Cost around £30.

Hi Tom, at first I thought you have a +12v and a -12V on your ATX, that means you do have 24V between them, which you do..........But even though you can get 24V it will be useless because the -12V rated for 0.5A max. So you could run ....... a 24v fan:):). Dang, at first I thought I was onto something. Oh well.

Great insights, the 5V standby voltage is very useful, but the large size of the ATX power supply and 12V only (vs 24V) would be a limitation for me

This is great information. It's too bad these psu prices aren't as low in 2022.The good news is that printer psus are the same price as atx psus right now so thats nice.

As you asked, I bought all industrial 5, 12, 24V SMPS to support my recently acquired BIGTREETECH SKR PRO V1.1 because this controller board allows for simultaneous use of both 12 & 24V supplies for Nema motors, Tcm2209 drivers and hot bed. I still have my 500W ATX PSU, but this will do for now as a bench PSU. I have a couple of digital V&I controllers for up to 50V or proportions of as shared between the two. Thank you for your great video contributions and no nonsense approach. FYI.

My very first printer back in 2014 was a fairly cheap (for the time!) Kit build and uses a ATX PSU with a couple of Resistors, it works fine and vecro keeps it from diving off the table (yup that happened, vibration from the printer made it walk since its not attached!) It still works fine, and I used the 5v to run a Pi with octoprint for quite a while. Ultimately though 24v and not having to deal with a rats nest of chopped up atx power leads has meant i've not really looked back. Nice Video Tom!

Best 12V supply I ever used... was a used HP Server power supply that put out over 60 amps continuously .,,. $15 off Amazon.

I've found ATX supplies have very thin cables which get too hot in some environments. I had to change the original wiring because some cables got burned.

Great info video! I've swapped the original power supply of my MK2.5S with an ATX. The man reason was to have a stable 5V for the Raspberry Pi with OctoPrint running. Also, for the printer and the Pi have the same gournd level, I think the USB connection between them is much more stable.

I bought a FSP300-60GHT 300W slim Power Supply second hand (around £8.00) on Ebay when I built my 3D printer. De soldered most wires from the PSU but kept a couple of +12V, ground and the +5V SB. The +12V has two rails which supply the bed, the motors and the hot end. The +5V SB to power the Arduino and Ramps board by connecting to 5V (VCC) on the Ramps. This gives me the option to only start up the power supply when I need to control the motors, start heating and running the printer and shuts down into standby automatically when finished. I also used a boost converter on the +5V SB to keep the 12V hot end fan running after shut down until it cooled down to 40 degrees then shuts off.

Most recent ATX power supplies have a single 12V rail again, but it's good to know they exist, especially on cheaper or older designs that you might repurpose from an old computer.

Hello folks! I use atx psu with 3 rails at 12 volt, one for hot-end , one for bed and last one for Mainboard. 5 volt are for raspberry and for led band.

I have customized a 3d printer for a Friend. 5vSTB to the RPI running Octoprint. The PI is able to turn on the printer. By switching on the ATX PSU!

i just use a server power supply, about the same size as the industrial units, pumps out 850 watts and is pretty quite

Is it really okay to parallel two 12V rails? It is important that they have some buffer resistors on the output of each rail (like 0.1R) to ensure they share the current draw equally. If not you can get current flow out one rail into the other and things heat up quickly. Like if you try to stack opamps it becomes unstable. Buffer resistors can be critical.

I have two custom built printers and I use two 12v industrial PSUs and on the other I have one 24v and one 12v industrial. I'm also in the process of building a laser engraver with a 12v industrial as well.

When i built my first 3d printer myself i went with ATX-powersupply since i had one extra that was available. Worked fine for years until i finally bought factory made metal framed 3d-printer to replace it.

Finally someone told me why my finder is the only printer that shuts down after print.

My printer is a very "adapted" RepRap and I'm using a "low profile" ATX supply, it is smaller than the default ones, I have opened it and changed the cables for thicker ones and left ony the ones I really use, it is performing well so far.

I tried using the 5v standby for my Pi2 + PiCam + Arduino Mega + Ramps 1.4 + backlit large LCD & SD card controller setup, wasn't sufficient, the temperature values kept fluctuating and had some other odd behavior (it worked though, but I didn't like the jumping temp readings), I instead added a separate 5v supply. This is an Antec ATX PSU I used to use in a gaming PC.

I use a hp server 450w power supply It has a platinum rating

I added my prusa an ATX supply, and then changed industrial 12v for a 24v one. I use 24, only for heating bed with a solid relay.

One thing about the multiple 12v rails, they as not always what they seem. I have a supply that lists 4 12v rails but they are all just linked together at the output on the power supply board.

on the printer i build i used a 24v meanwell with a ssr to make the atx power off function work. first i was not convinced about the idea the printer developer had, but it´s wonderful. :)

I'm running two ATX supplies for 24v and it works great, but you have to do some hacking to make it work. Fundamentally, the power supply creates a *difference* of 12v between its low and high outputs. We call them ground and 12v, but they're really more like x and x+12. So if you connect the low output to 12v, the high output will be 24v - easy! Unfortunately the low output is already internally connected to the earth pin on your power plug. This is for safety: if you let x just float around with no specific value, who's to say it couldn't end up at 240v and shock you when you touch it? However, it's possible to mod the power supply so that the earth is still connected to the case, but not the low output, leaving it free to be connected to the 12v of another (identical) supply. There's a video by Neilgn called "Isolate negative terminal from ground on ATX supplies" that shows how to do it (though he isolates both supplies and you only need to isolate one of them). It's not that difficult, but I wouldn't attempt it without at least a multimeter and a knowledge of how to discharge the big input capacitors.

I replaced my garbage chinesium power supply for my Anet A8 with a good Dell atx powersurply i had lying about. I feel a lot safer now and the short circuit protection is fantastic. I had a LED light that was short-circuiting which would instantly trip the protection resulting in no damage. With all software safties enabled, soldered bed connections and external MOSFET, I feel somewhat safe letting it run unattended.

My Anet E10 power supply died (looks like a bulging cap on the 240watt supply) so I used a 480 watt ATX I had, after seeing this video today and it seems to be running better than before. The Y axis bed stepper sounds like it isn't struggling like before- has more zip to it. Printing now- up and running, fingers crossed :)

I chose ATX because I had one BUT mainly I didn't trust the sketchy power supply my kit came with. Well rated powersupply made me feel safe.

I've been through pretty much all the options; 12 V cheap PSU that came with the printer 12 V ATX (Noise) 12 V ATX with Boost Converter (TMC drivers) 24 V ATX in series (faster bed heating times) 24 V Meanwell (less cable clutter) 24 V ATX in series (that Meanwell is stupidly loud) 24 V ATX in series with a 12 V buck converter (lights would flicker when loading the 24 V rail)

Still on 12 volt PSUs on my 2 custom printers. One with a RADDS controller has ATX corsair 80 bronze semi modular PSU. I combined 3 ATX wires to one thicker for the bed. The other is with a Duet WiFi and has the 12V Prusa MK2 style PSU and thick wires with crimp connectors and ferrule connectors.

Server power supplies are often superior to both in most aspects. They can be a bit loud, but are often autoranging for mains power. Laptop power supplies can also be useful too. There are mods that 'float' ground to gang multiple power supplies together for 24 volts as well.

2:25 Did he really just say 12 floppy drives........ XD Boi

24V is the way to go 👌

I built a printer and added a raspberry pi zero w for running octoprint. On one of the GPIO pins i've connected a 5V relais that switches my 24V power supply (for heated bed, hotend and steppers) on and off via Octoprint. (using octoprint plugin PSUcontrol) Only a small power supply for the raspberry pi is hooked up which stays on (until switched off with a manual switch on the printer itself)

On my DIY Hypercube 300 i run 2 industrial power supplys. A 24v run the 300x300 heated bed and a 12v run all the other stuff. First i build only with the 12v but the heated bed don´t achieve 100 C degrees needed to print ABS, so i buy the 24v power supply only for the heated bed and it works insanely well, it hits ABS temps in less than a minute. I know that is possible to run the ramps on 24v and maybe in the future i go for that conversion.

I've recently remade all the electronics of my Anet A8 upgrading it to TMC2130s and I've used an 875W computer PSU. I know that that is overkill however I didn't go out of my way to buy it, I found it in an old Aurora R2 which is a rebuilt computer and the manufacturer made the PSU slightly larger (not longer, larger) so that it couldn't fin in any standard case. Basically, I had this PSU laying around that I couldn't use and the choice was pretty clear.

A good guide about when and why to select the various types of power supplies. (everything has its place)

Turing printer on/off using OctoPi is a neat feature and quite easy using ATX power supply. However I will stick to industrial PSU - 24V is much "better" feature. To turn the printer on off I plan to use relay on 230V side, I am going to power Raspberry Pi and relay from separate 5V power supply. Both connected to the same UPS, so I can switch them manually on/off there.

I switched the Ender 5 24V Supply to Meanwell UHP350-24. Using the TH3D Mainboard plus a fanless supply gives me a near 0 noise while printing ABS/ASA. I modified the printer alot further, using a multible PTC elements to heat a customized chamber, some LED strips inside, a thermometer, a self resetting bimetal fuse for overtemperature of the PTC elements, full metal hotend, direct drive titan extruder, immense cable lengthening to get the electronics out of the chamber ... :D

I used 2 ATX power supplies for my first 3d printers but they seemed not very reliable, I had rare shutdowns while printing. Probably some voltage spike or other things happening, since there is lots of unregulated stuff going on. I then used switch mode power supplies for LEDs and never had any problem since.

I am using a HP DPS-460 Server Power Supply on my 3D printer. It has a lot of power, is silent, can be also switched by marlin, uses high quality longlife components, is very compact in size and you can buy it on ebay for less than 15 Euros. It is still 12V but thats fine for my me even though I have a 200W/12V Heatbead.

Thanks for an very informative video. For me currently I can't afford the cost of upgrading to 24V. Just last night I decided to try a ATX psu and we fortunately had a spare one in the house. I actually like the fact that it could essentially be controlled from the main board to switch on and off. So, I will make some plans around that in the near future but for now will keep thing simple.

late to the party, but one more advantage to atx supply. if youre on an arduino/ramps board with marlin as many are, you can link the green wire into ramps and control the atx power from marlin. mine automatically turns the 12v rails off when the printer isnt running, saving some power and automatically turning off everything except the arduino and the raspberry pi.

I salvaged some female ATX sockets from a broken mainboard and just soldered the printer wires to their pins (sometimes bridging multiple pins together for more current), isolated everything with some heat shrink tubing and attached it to the table with printed clamps. This way I can take advantage of the separated power supply rails (no voltage fluctuation/light flickering from heated bed on/off cycles), and I can always swap the ATX PSU for a new one if it fails, even the warranty is kept intact. The green switching line is controlled via a little Transistor by a Raspberry Pi running OctoPrint, which is fed by the 5V standby line and therefore always online and available for other purposes like home automation (pilight).

Also, in my experience, Delta makes some pretty damn good PS and fans that come stock on Prusa printers.

24V industrial type, with a relay switch controlled by a raspberry pi that is on with another insdustrial supply of 5V (i have one for 35W on 5V) - those 5V comes in handy for lots of sensors and actuators (relays and stuff.. the RPI GPIO is 3.3v, but with a npn transistor i give the 5V to whatever amps the relays need (which is much more than the max 60mA GPIO pin should be used, and also it's 3.3V. I like to transistorswitch all gpio outputs for turning on a fan, a led strip, the PSU, etc)

I used a quality server ATX power supply I was able to get for free. Eventually I installed a mains wired silicone heat mat but it is quiet (fanless) and very stable. That said in my LED aquarium light I use a nice Meanwell industrial PSU which also works quite nicely so far for many years trouble free.

I added ATX to my printer, octoprint can turn the printer on from a totally off state as it runs off the standby 5v power rail. And after a print it waits to cool down and then totally turns the printer off :) awesome stuff.

using 2 x 12V30A wired together to get 24V30A for heatbed & mainboard and 36V10A for motion system (Nema 23) - sounds way too much, but i have a gigantic corexy mashine for 3d printing (40x40x48cm buildplate) and cnc routing (48x45cm wasteboard) on linear rails. and yes tom, it's working freakin' great! :)

Seeked out an ATX PS with a 5V standby that can handle over 3A to power a R PI and re-arm when it was off. I found the PS for a Dell Optiplex 3010 or 9010 has a 5Vsb at 4A. It is a small form factor 240W and goes for about $35 USD on Amazon. I have the 5V Standby powering a the RPi with its USB connected to and powering re-arm with ramps. the PS on turns on the ATX PS to provide the 12 V to the ramps for motors and hot end. I have the PWR OK signal from the ATX PS trigger a Solid State relay to turn on a 24V 480W PS for the heated bed. The ramps is connected to a MOSFET to control the 24V to the heated bed. I added the plugin to octoprint for power on the PS and power down the PS after some time. I just send a job to octoprint and the printer powers up and shutsdown after cool down.

Meanwell UHP 350-24 it's an ultra efficient and fanless PSU. Small form factor, absolutely love it.

You don’t lose “capacity” from “dry capacitors”. You lose voltage regulation

Hallo Tom, Ich habe ein Industrienetzteil mit 24V und der Abschaltfunktion eines ATX Netzteils benutzt. Da in meinem Aufbau auch noch eine SPS und diverse PC Lüfter verwendet werden, benutze ich noch Ein zweites Industrienetzteil mit 5V und 12V. Funktioniert sehr gut in Verbindung mit einem Duet 2.

I used an ATX psu just because is the one that I had laying around, but the past month I switched my printer to 24v and I really miss the hability of switch it on/off remotely. I would probably return to the 12v system just so I can use the ATX

I am using a server power supply. Even at standby it can supply my controller and raspberry pi

Replaced my cheap industrial 12V PSU with an semi-passive non modular single rail 22A SFX one. It does a really good job and is much smaller compared to ATX. Just need a proper mount to hide all the cables.

One could use a +12V rail for power and a -12V for ground to get 24V, if both rails have identical amp ratings, but forget about using that 5V and 3.3V if the power supply provides a common ground for all of them. One would probably be better off opening it up and implanting a 12V to 24V boost converter

I have two DIY printers. First one uses a 700W 80+ Silver ATX supply, just because I had it (leftover from Bitcoin mining). It does work quite well... but for my newer one, I went with two MeanWell supplies, a 24v and a 5v, plus a mains bed. The extra performance of the 24v was worth the extra complexity from going the industrial route, plus the packaging was far more convenient to tuck it under the printer.

I tried to use an ATX power supply, but it wasn't powerful enough to run my raspberry pi in standby so I just went with a switch on the mains voltage and went back to the old industrial PSU that came with my printer. My new printer is using a MeanWell 500W fanless powersupply, it's been fantastic. (albeit expensive €95)

How's that "best stepper for TMC2130+" coming along?

Bought a Hewlett Packard DPS-750RB A server PSU for £17 on Ebay, its very small, and gives 65A @ 12V :) its got a 40mm fan that I suspect will be very loud if it ever gets loaded enough to need it, it powers my Hevo and has been perfect for the last 12 months and really there's so much head room that that cooling fan has never kicked in.

My 7-year-old Printrbot Plus v1 used an ATX power supply's 4-pin 12V Molex connector. It worked, but it was never a precision machine.

You should have mentioned used server power supplies. They are extremely low priced, efficient, reliable and easy to work with. I also wonder why so many don't take advantage of the M80 and M80 gcodes to turn the printer on and off. This is extremely easy to achieve on ATX and server supplies.

When I built my printer, I got a used noname ATX supply. It was dirt-cheap ~12$, it was something I know how to use, and it was recommended\described on Reprap wiki guides. There was a problem with slow heatbed, and was thinking about 24v upgrade... but then I found out it was software problem: Sprinter to Marlin update fixed it for me, what as a surprise!

my first printer was shipped with an anemic LED power supply that exploded on first use. I replaced it with a FlexATX server power supply that is 80+ silver with a certification that it can run it's full capacity 24/7. Obviously more expensive, but the FlexATX form factor is very nice, it's 40mm thick and fairly narrow, so it can fit in the same places as those LED power supplies. Only downside is the small 40mm fan that is very loud at high power draws, but otherwise it's great, and I've added a manual switch on the 24pin connector so it's a super safe way to turn it on and off, with zero current running through the switch.

A third option would be that the 3D printer manufacturers get together and do a SPEC similar to ATX for 12V, 24V and 48V - including 5V standby, electric on/off,... They could come up with their own set of connectors or simply reuse some old PRE-ATX mainboard connectors. They would be free to change the size etc. And the result is a fixed form factor and a spec people can produce or order. Just look at the stepper motors for size and layout. It might even be better to look for other applications as well. E.g. getting the LED guys on the boat - 5v standby for remote access and cloud snooping and 12/24V for light action.

My Cr10 Psu died 2 Month in. Replaced it with an Atx and designed a whole new sidebox for the Board, Pi, Display.... And since the Atx had a big enough Fan, it's cooling the whole box.

I'm using a medium quality EVGA 500W ATX power supply, it worked for a while without any load on 5V but after a few months it started behaving a little weird (prints stopping in the middle with the ATX still on afterwards or sometimes stopping completely), I tried adding a 12V halogen light to the 5V line and now it works perfectly so even on good quality ATX think about it if you have any issue.

You can buy a small circuit board with an ATX connector on it with a selection of binding posts with different voltages. These boards can be had from Banggood or Aliexpress for less than $2 US. Makes for a clean and safe install as you can cut off all of the wires but the main ATX connector. Also, all of the Binding posts are fused. You could easily mount the breakout board to a printer with the power supply connected through a nicely wrapped ATX connector & cable. Due to the large number of scrapped computers, used ATX supplies are readily available just about everywhere. These breakout boards make quality ATX power supplies a bargain for 3D printers as well as benchtop power supplies. As an added bonus, most ATX supplies are UL listed and less likely to catch fire or accidentally electrocute you. Not the case with most import (Chinese) supplies.

Are there multi-rail PSUs without a common ground? Then you might also be able to get your 24V if you put them in series.

In the US and Canada, most ATX power supplies are UL / CA(?) listed, meaning that they have been tested by a verification company for things like reliability and safety. Many of those cheap brick supplies out of China have no such rating. I also believe that many of them have replaceable fuses.

I fry my first atx with my diy pcb 17A 12V heated bed. Then I buy used server power supply (12V 40A). But this was long time ago. If I was building printer now I would totaly go for small 24V brick for electronics and motors and mains power heated bed.

24V are my main reason why i will not use ATX supplies ... boost converters from 12v to 24v for high loads seem like an unnecessary complication compared to stepping down 24v to 12v for the little bit that the control electronics need (eg inductive probe) ...

Keep in mind that a, say, 400W heated bed doesn’t run 400W constantly. My printer had a 400W supply, once it was at temp it stabilised at 150-200W average maintaining temp. Just handy to keep in mind when thinking of what it’s costing you in electricity.

I've got a spare ATX and have been wondering what to do with it and had considered this, along with running a second graphics cards, or just extra hard drives or something. Glad to see it is possible on a 3D printer! :)

You can actually pull 24volts out of the atx by taking a positive lead from the 12v and a negative lead from the -12v

"I'll enable member tiers here on KZfaq at some point" Bald ist es ein Jahr her, Thomas.