excellent video, my drivers door has just done the same, video of drivers side would be appreciated.

Brilliantly done. Thanks.

My passenger rear door just started having these exact symptoms today. Hoping to tackle this on my own now thanks to your detailed walkthrough

hi, nice video, i have this problem too, but i cant open right front door even from inside, once in a while it works but most of the time i cant open it at all, is it the same problem as there? will changing the actuaor fix it?

Man this helped so much. I wish your video also covered how to separate the two sections which actually gave me a heard time but nonetheless excellent video. I was about to buy a new actuator and then saw your video. Thank you

Thank you :) i hope it was helpful!

Yep, fixed it. Exactly the same issue - dirty motor commutator.

Happy it helped :)

I'm glad you fixed it :) i keep putting off doing the drivers door but once the weather's nice i need to do mine too. Seems like a very common problem, and not hard to fix!

Happy to have helped :)

Hi I'm looking at ordering the motor's did they take a long time to arrive?they all say from China.

Hi there! Do you happen to still have the part you ordered? I broke mine while trying to take apart. Help please.

Happy to help!

Yes, I just replaced the 2014 Cayenne rear left door lock. What a project it was! I orderd the wrong part 8K0839015C (6 poles) instead of 8K0839015 (8 poles). Of course I wanted to save work and did not checked before the order. Tried to check electronically wether it is possible to rewire the 6 pins but I found electically the C model has different charasteristic therefore I decided to build one unit from the two: tried to use the electronic from the old unit and replaced the complete mechanical unit and electric motors from the C (new) module. Diassembly of the unit: the videos on the net never showed how should it be done. Read it when the unit is in front of you, otherwise it is just a mess. After removing the 4 screws it is possible to move the electronic and the mechanical part apart from each other. Take photos from the are covered by the grey plastic from different angles. Move just a litte apart the parts and examine the two plastic levers connected to two plastic axles. One end of the levers connected to the mechanical part the other end to the electronic part (two axles, one short one long). You can see the levers started to bend. Use a screwdriver to help remove the levers from the axles. It is not easy. Pull the main parts a bit and push the levers a bit to release the tension on the lever. The aim is not to broke the lever. I was not able to remove the lever on the longer axle from the old unit because of the axle part was really stucked into the lever"s hole. The stucked axle fell apart after pulling the units apart but it was not a problem, the axle part and the spring can be placed back without difficulty. But first remove the axle part from the mechanical part. I had to trimmed the axle part to be able to pull out from the lever's hole. After the separation ot the two units I opened the electronics part of both units. Swapped the motors from the old to the new units and closed the old electronic unit. Then assembled the C unit mechanical part with the old unit electric part. The reason was the old unit's mechanical part was really weared out and I found the C unit mechanical part more robust than the old unit's. Push the two part together slowly and position the two levers's hole to the two axes. It is not easy but doable. Flex the plastic arm with spring above the two levers the most upside position to have enogh room for the adjustments for the levers. When outer lever hole is in line with the long axle than use a screwdriver to push the lever onto the long axle. Push the main parts a bit closer to each other and position the inner lever hole to the short axle. When inline than push the lever to the short axle. When using the screwdriver hold the spring supported arm above the levers in extended position by your finger to be able to do the lever adjustment and the push to the short axle. If the axle is positioned right than push the main parts completely and secure the two parts with the 3 screws. Important! Check the mechanical and electrical operation of the lock by connected to the subframe before doing any assembly (apart from the connection of the main cable harnes between the door and the body)! Check the connection of the axles to the levers. The inner lever sitting on a short axle and it is easy to slip off from that axle. When it is slipping off tha the door can be opened always independently from the status of the lock. Use the NEW unit's grey plastic cover to completely cover the unit with the 4th screw. You will find it not possible to put into the right position because of one plastic guide pin is too fat. Trim this pin with a knife and it is OK. The reason of this cover swap: the new unit cover has more room for the outer release arm while the old unit's plastic cover has not. Using the old unit cover on the new mechanical unit results a friction on the outer release arm and the arm will not going back into the resting position. Apart from that mechanically the old and the C unit is the same. I hope this help some poor souls out there facing with the same problem. Good luck!

Happy it helped

It's all cars m8 those little motor's are a little trouble makers. I like the fact that you can still mend things like this..

Check the motor connections inside. Door lock modules are cheap enough to replace

The motor will actually complete numerous complete revolutions. However the fixed gearing means the motor will always return to, and start from, the same position every operation. This is also the moment of peak current draw so that part of the commutator is going to get hammered compared to the rest of the motor

It's a child lock, when turned the door will not be able to be opened from inside (via door handle)