Couple of comments on construction from someone who does lots of woodworking. 1) When you're drilling and cutting holes, you have the material protruding quite far from the table. It'll cause the material to bounce and make it much harder to cut and potentially ruining the material or even damaging the tool (or even yourself). Supporting the material on two closely spaced sawhorses, or even some blocks on the table will be safer with better results. 2) Most people will have trouble drilling with larger forstner bits (like 2"/50mm and larger). ESPECIALLY when the material is bouncing. Depending on the bit (forstner sharp ends vary a lot), drill torque, and speed they can become quite grabby, VERY hard to start the hole and be quite a strain on your wrists. It's easy to have the drill wrench itself completely out from your hands. I always use forstners at 38mm and larger in a drill press with the work clamped down except when I have no choice. Practice with the same material. Go slow, use two hands if possible, and brace yourself. Watch your drill speed - forstner speeds are quite slow compared to twist bits. When hand-drilling with forstners, choose the ones with big center spurs that will help guide it. Better forstners have NO spur and not much in rim protrusion (to ensure flat bottoms), and it's a recipe for the drill running all over the place and refusing to start cutting. Carbide insert bits (not really forstners per-se) usually have big center and rim spurs and are much easier with hand drills. A lot better on MDF too. I wouldn't dare use my good forstners on MDF. Two other better options (aside from routers, jigsaws etc), when the circle doesn't need to be as fine as forstners make them, is to either use hole saws (ideal for hand drilling because they have an arbor pilot), or if you have a drill press use an adjustable circle cutter like Amazon's B001C00ZRK or B07QDYGJSQ. I have one almost identical to the first one, and I can drill any hole from about 1" to 6". But they're drill press ONLY. A LOT cheaper than a set of forstners or hole saws. As you showed in a later video, if you have an air nailer, it makes assembly much easier and less fussy trying to get the corners to stay matched during glueup. Using strap clamps is a good idea, but I would have used at *least* 6 bar clamps per box or used 4 clamps with clamping cauls or weights as you suggested.

You're doing a GREAT job. I like your take on tuning and budling. LOVE IT

I happened to have bought those same woofers couple years ago. The specs suggest they work best for a sealed box but here you are giving them a large ported box and they work just fine. Great video!

Great video. It would be cool if you would make another video, where you build another set of speakers, but using expensive components. Then compare these to the new ones. Just to hear how much of a difference there is in sound quality.

The idea with these woofers is to mount them vertically to make front baffle narrow. Or round front baffle edgess when is enough spacing.

Great video! Thanks for mentioning SoundImports!

I always enjoy your videos of speaker building. I learn something all the time and It's just pleasant to see all this come together. Thank you so much.

Great job! Well explained 👍

Nice job, just when I though giving up new buildings You spark the desire in me again haha

AWESOME build :) For slightly more experienced builders, One CAN build a complete box without power sanding. Use 3/4" void-free plywood instead of MDF & wipe off any excess glue before it dries. I also use a 15 minute PU based glue, brings the total build time down to a couple of hours.

Very interesting thanks for posting.👍 I've just subscribed.

Sir please make a video on how to use filter,advenced tab,signal in winisd. Please.

Hello, This is your 2nd video I've watched and I'd like to say thank you for your work and instruction. I have a suggestion/request for a new video; It seems the KLH model 5 is new hit with many youtube reviews. Would you - could you do a low cost DIY clone video? Many thanks and best regards, Jack

Who says you can't get some inexpensive gear and make it sound good ! Cheers!

Should’ve gone with the 3rd cheapest tweeter- the truncated faceplate would’ve made a better looking unit, and put the acoustic Center closer to the truncated woofer face-Plate.. SLIGHT acoustic improvements for €1,40 euro and slick looking 🤷🏼‍♂️ but great video! No other complaints 😎

Dont pick the cheapest drivers...........pick the best affordable drivers. You are already spending $150 for the crossover parts and wood...........not to mention all the labor. Spending an extra $20 or $30 to get the correct drivers, will make a huge difference with only 10% added cost.

Quantas polegadas tem esse woffer?

Salut ! Respect pentru clipuri 👍. Imi poti spune re rog de unde cumperi difuzoarele ?

Nice project. Can you tell me the titles of the tracks used to demo at the end please.

Lol , I thought by your looks and accent you were Spanish :P Great vids btw ! What program do you use to calculate the volume ? Winisd ?

wouldnt it be easier to paint one of the large faces first? that way you could paint the rest as they lay on the table and wont wobble

Never seen a big reflextunnel and such small woofer.😂😂😂😂🇩🇪

as vrea sa fac o pereche de boxe asemanatoare, in principiu le voi folosi pentru filme, dar nu m am decis ce ruta sa iau, diy sau o pereche de boxe spre ex dayton audio mk402. problema e cu transportul in romania. cum faci rost de difuzoare/materiale?

Sorry I curse in Italian! LOL

Riyas .hi sir I want to make one tower speaker box you have any idea can you send me box design photo sir (8"" woofer 80wat 8 ohms 2 pic +Mid range 5 " 80 way 8 ohms + tweeter 3 " 40 watt 8 ohms +crossover 8 ohms sir

Я так понял, автор шутит. Типа Сталкера, который Hi-End усилитель за 5 минут слепил. 😁