True.

Reputable companies like EV or JBL usually have reasonable technical information available, at least for their professional products?

There was an attempt in the 70s to legislate it for products sold in the US, but it didn’t really happen.

@@davidhiggen3029Yes, David, these show good attempts, but sure could be even better. Might be a good and convincing selling point as well.

Phase Linear 400 / Infinity SM150s. The replacement woofers should be delivered today. Need better restraint here.

I m agree.

If the amp has "gain" knobs on it you can limit it down to a whisper at full volume from your source.

Thats also a Solution

Some amps are just build in a way that clipping do not happen even if you overload the input.

And what will/can happen if we use to skinny cables ? The amp/speaker will blow up or what ?

Fire​@@K2teknik.

@@guanedits6349 What cables are we talking about, the cables between the amp and the speakers, and/or the power cables to the amp? Do not get me wrong, there are some power cables out there where if you load them you may get an unacceptable voltage drop to run your amp, but from that to fire is a long way. Speaker cables that is to skinny will also just create an unacceptable voltage drop no fire there.

Back in the 50s many speakers had fuses to prevent actual overheating of the voice coil. It became problematic in professional use so it went away. In most cases amps and speakers are sold with great overkill, so that it’s unlikely that they will be damaged. Of course, the majority of semi-pro systems now use powered speakers with matching amps &speakers as well as limiters.

@@TomCee53 Yes, I remember speaker fuses. As you say, powered speaker systems if designed properly should have built-in limiting to avoid damage from misuse. Of course one CAN use a line level limiter in front of a separate amp/speaker setup, but to get it set appropriately really needs testgear that many people probably don't have access to. I'm pretty much retired from live work these days, but if I were tasked with setting up PA for anything smaller than a stadium-level concert, I'd go with powered speakers.

There is some out there (12 year old kids maybe) that would just grab the volume knob and crank it to 100 but the most of us realize, even in our fancy car radios that it will cause damage. You have a system with an external amp most know the car can overpower the road, so to speak.

How lovely to hear someone echoing common sense!

Number 1?

​@@dinorockwell7670, only number 1 can write 48hz/24 instead of 48khz/24. And only number 1 records in 44.1 khz for video clips in which the software have to up convert to 48khz during final rendering. Btw, the minimum bitrate for Dolby Atmos is 48khz, everything below has to be up converted 48khz.

>44.1kHz has its uses though, mostly for sampling high-frequency stuff like cymbals and hats for use in drum machines, as the higher sample rate reduces aliasing in the highest frequencies - but you might as well transmux it to a lower sample rate AFTER you record it, since you avoided the aliasing in the recording stage to save on resource use for sure, unless you're about to pitch shift it down a couple octaves or something (obviously doesn't apply to country, but I've made a few decent rave stabs/synths from pitch shifting ride cymbals, snares into kicks, triangles into glokenspiels, etc.). could also be useful if you have a plugin/hardware unit that doesn't provide oversampling but supports higher sample rates, again to avoid aliasing and other artifacting due to pitch shifting

But wait, can't we just hear to a max of 20 kHz?

I agree with this approach. If you’re gonna run twice the power of the RMS speaker wattage then leave that dial cranked all the way up..

Thanks!

My rule of thumb is better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

@@ronaldcarson4360 A lot of speakers handles 50w continuous power, but I found it is not very easy to find a desktop amp with 100w output per channel.

I recently gotten a 100w speaker @8ohm when the AV Receiver is rated @90w per channel. Should be fine too for normal use.

You may ask why would i try that scenario? Its because 8ohms amplifiers are not available commercially and it would cost double buying it online. So im looking for alternatives here. Right now, i am using an 8 ohm amplifier but since they are US made, they run at 110 volts and it is such a hussle to bring AVR everytime we use the sound system. So yeah, thats the situation. Oh i am from the Philippines for your reference.

No. Audio systems are rarely fool-proof. There will still be the possibility of overdriving the input of the audio amplifier.

@@AudioUniversity then i will keep an eye on those clipping indicators.thanks.

The volume attenuator knob on the front of the amplifier isn’t linear. 75% of the way up probably will only be 60% of the power. But you’ll only really know for sure if you measure the voltage coming out.

Yes you can, slightly more powerful amp is better because you a4e able to drive speaker at full volume without distortion from amp at full power (clipping and other stuff ) just dont turn volume gauge all the way up haha, although in your situation you acrually can, because impedance will cripple the current, thus lowering the power so now worries buddy💪😎🤙

This is the sensitivity of the device such as amplifier or mixer and specifies the minimum signal voltage to get the full output of the amplifier. Speakers are measured differently, as the sound level produced by 1 watt at 1 meter distance from the speaker. Line level devices like fm tuners or cd players usually specify the maximum output before distortion is noticeable.

I'm sorry but that seems excessive to me. I give my 200 watt speakers 250 watts but not 4 times their power rating.

Check out this video, Bob: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/otp9g65pzLSXiGQ.html

I'm thinking about getting a 32 inch subwoofer driver that's 6000watts rms and the peak power is 12000 watts tbh and the Sensitivity is 105dB ngl this is sub driver is next level stuff @@AudioUniversity

One thing is a distorted effect we find in the music and another thing is physically harming the speaker. The distortion effect many musicians use today is in fact the sound of a "broken" speaker. Someone once, some time ago, damaged their guitar amp and liked the sound of it and voila! But of course nobody wants to damage their expensive equimpent just to get that effect. So, the effect and the gear was engineered in a way that it presents no harm. Also in the mastering phase, the levels are "polished" in a way that it's playable on a wide range of speakers without presenting any issues. Basically, when the signal sent is too much for the speaker to handle, it causes certain problems that can make it blow. That's uncontrolled distortion and you definitely dont't want that so the rule very valid. It's important to match the equipment and set proper gain staging.

@@katarinamatic1011 Let's say I play a sine wave sample. I monitor it using an oscilloscope. I max out my amp. Will this give a different oscilloscope reading in comparison to digital distortion effect?

When you record a square wave the harmonics (above the audio band ) are filtered out, when an amplifier goes into clipping the harmonics that go to the speaker can go up to several MHz which effectively turns your voice coils into heating elements, this is the principle of induction heating, except an induction heater has a high power, high mass coil compared to the workpiece been heated but in a speaker the mass of metal (magnet) is too great to heat up and the (voice) coil heats up instead!

There's more to it than that. if you looks at the specs for your speakers, you should find another ohm rating for the speaker. Its the lowest possible resistance the speaker can show the amplifier. That's the important one because the lower the resistance, the harder the amp has to work. So, if you just look at 6 and 8 ohms only, the 6 ohm speaker should be more difficult to drive than the 8. However, if you look at the lowest possible resistance, that picture can change quite a bit. That's because the 6 and 8 ohm ratings are averages. The amount of resistance a speaker actually shows the amp is based on frequency. If you take an 8 ohm rating, for example, since the 8 ohms is an average, there is only 1 frequency or note, that when played will show the amp an 8 ohm load. Any frequencies above your actual 8 ohm frequency will be more resistive 9, 10 11 ohms, etc.. Any frequencies lower, will show less resistance. If you now get that 2nd ohm rating I mentioned above, you can use it to figure out what speaker is harder to drive. For example, lets say your 6 ohm speaker can drop down to 4 ohms, and your 8 ohm speaker can drop down to 2 ohms, the 8 ohm speaker is going to be much harder to drive. If you never looked at the 2nd ohm rating. As for your specific problem, I can't give you an exact answer because I don't have all the information. I can give you my best guess, and I'm pretty sure it will be correct, I just can't guarantee it. Its very common in a home theater system to have your 2 main speakers overpower the center. In most cases, its not a volume issue, its a bandwidth issue. The further you move away from a speaker, the more volume you lose. You also lose frequency extremes. The highs are not as high, and the lows are not as low. That's what's called loosing bandwidth. Having 2 speakers in the same room playing at the same volume as just 1 increases your bandwidth. You still lose volume and frequency extremes when moving away from the speakers, but not nearly as much as you do with 1 speaker. You're asking a single, smaller speaker to give you the same bandwidth as 2 larger speakers. You can buy a bigger center channel and play it louder, or do something else that very few people consider. Your center channel is a mono channel. It doesn't have different information going to a left and right speaker. In my opinion, the easiest way to deal with your problem is to get a pair of bookshelf speakers similar to your mains. Put one on each side of your screen. Since you're feeding both speakers with the exact same signal, you'll float a perfect center image exactly like if you were to put 1 center channel behind the middle of your screen. Using 2 speakers will give you about the same loss in bandwidth as your 2 main speakers. Right now you have about half that for the center. That's why its so noticeable.

Many do, The featured qsc amps have limmiters built in, so you can set it to the RMS rating of the speaker you're driving. With three maps. Agressive, normal or minimal limitting

Looking right now at two different sets of speakers. One set with 140w, 8ohm and the other pair with 100w, 6ohms.

Haha it's More fun in the Philippines

@@janoy9323 opo

The "Continuous Power" is rather quite often referred to as "RMS Watts" on the spec sheets of audio gear- and in my experience, more so actually than the former. He didn't mention this little tidbit in the video unfortunately, but yeah: (Continuous Power = RMS Watts). 👍

Sure, but how many beginning audio engineers know what an oscilloscope is, let alone how to use one?

Dont to it.

That’s completely dependent on the speaker sensitivity, impedance, and listening distance.

That's in a VERY well designed box that takes FULL advantage of your sub's resonate frequency, AND this is no doubt, in a car, or SUV, or some kind of vehicle, that's definitely NOT any home sub system you're describing there, that's for sure!