Thanks for the kind words! We hope you can have the truck in fine form by then.

Glad we could help!

Glad it was helpful!

I hope it works a treat!To borrow an Aussie friends phrase.

Glad we could help

Very cool!

Hi so we have a 1980 windsor 302 block all standard engine cambs etc in a 1950 f100. What should i set initial to vacume to total maximum timing. It is hard to get info here in the UK but your videos are fantastic. The only info i can find is no more than 35 deg total on this specific engine or even 34 deg especially if i get pinging. Ford recommends 6 btdc initial.

No. restomod has been around for a long time. I think either the owner of Mustangs Plus or Jim Smart coined it. I'll have to get them in a room and see who wins that argument.

We got it, thanks!

@@AutoRestoMod Glad you got it figured out! I had a similar problem with my 82 Mustang GT. The Autolite 2100 had ported Vacuum, but none showed up. Only after I took it apart, I found that the port was carbon clogged from the inside!

Vacuum advance runs off manifold vacuum! Why are you concerned with ported?

You're welcome

Hope you got it sorted.

I'd look to see what the factory specs are. You'll need to know what your all in is for your application.

I don’t think you want to add timing at idle with vacuum advance. Yes idle is leaner usually but that’s why you set your initial mechanical to cover the low engine speed/leaner mixture, cylinder pressures determine how much timing required. Stock low compression needs more timing than high compression. It’s a matter of correct timing for a given engines burn characteristics. I think vacuum advance only should add timing under light load (think carb throttle blade position=more closed=higher vacuum=leaner/lazier fuel charge that takes longer to propagate flame front, hence the need to advance timing, but not to use vacuum advance at idle. If your engine needs 18 at idle I’m guessing you’re idling way lean or you’re fuel enrichment needs looking at. I’ve got a 302 based 331, 10:1 aluminum heads middle of the road cam. My cylinder pressure on warmed over choke open engine is 165 @ 5000 feet above sea level, it likes 12 initial and 33 by 3000 rpm. Idle AFR is 14.5, WOT 12-12.5 and cruising is 15-15.5

Hope it works. That kind of stuff can be frustrating.

I would do a vacuum test on the module. Simply put a hose on the canister with the cap off and pull a vacuum. if the arm moves, you have a good can and a vacuum leak somewhere else. If you can draw a vacuum, and it feels like you are just pulling air, the canister is ruptured. You'll have to re-tune the engine after the new canister is installed.

@@AutoRestoMod Thanks again. Let me try that as well and see what response I will get out of the canister. A little more info in case someone else is still learning as I am comes from a forum posted response to my question that said, "It sounds like you have your vacuum advance hose connected to the factory-specified "timed spark" or "ported vacuum" port in the carburetor which has no vacuum signal at idle when the throttle plates are closed. This is normal. Some folks will change the location from the "timed spark port to full manifold vacuum to get the benefits of vacuum advance at closed throttle idle and deceleration." -How many times did you mention that in Episode 102/103? Gotta smile. "When the student is ready, the teacher shows up." Thank you!

Glad we helped!

We haven't done a dual point. I don't have one here to do the se up on.

My understanding of what was said is that carb only has a manifold vacuum port, so with that carb installed you will always have vacuum advance at idle.

LOL yeah, this video was one that I needed to do...and I put it off because I'm not that good at this sort of thing.

It comes back into the Que now that we can dump the truck into the yard under it's own power...WHICH was SUPPOSED to happen a couple of weeks ago.

The 35 is with vacuum. If you hear pinging, you have too much.

Im working on tuning a 1969 Z28. Timing is super retarded for the AIR system, runs lean for emissions and there are some things that dont make sense like having two power valves. Currently im trying to figure the best curve. Idling at 2btdc isnt optimal

I just added a b28 advance because tge one that was on the car would barely move. Started at 8 inches and would open fully until about 15 inches, motor only makes 10 inches! I also modified the carb to change the vacuum port from ported to manifold vacuum without changing the outside appearance

@@neorev01 the list 4053 for your 69 Z/28 is suppose to have 2 power valves, one for each metering block. Prim jets should be 68 and sec 76. Power valves should be 6.5 in hg. Spark plugs should be AC R43 with a .035 gap.

@@johnmilner7603 true, but there is no need for a power valve in the secondaries unless youre going to regularly cruise with the secondaries constantly open and want to get better gas mileage under those conditions. 11 inches of vacuum requires 5.5 power valves to operate correctly. R43 plugs foul, the hotter r45 plugs work better for regular driving. 68 is too small, 72 works better. 2 degrees intial timing is too late, im aiming for 12-16 instead.

@@neorev01 I tried different plug heat ranges and brands and R45 was too hot that the fuel burnt and flashed too fast on the plug. Holley’s old rule of thumb on the PV was 2 numbers lower than your idle vacuum reading, now it’s 1/2 to cover their behind. What works for me is jetting 68/76, 5.0 for both PV and 16* initial timing (36* total). I’m out in the Country and hardly ever drive at 30 mph. I’m mostly at 50 or 50+ mph and oddly at times at 40 mph. In order to keep plugs clean, they need to reach self cleaning temperatures and a few full throttle hits through the gears or they will foul no matter what you use. This works for me. Good luck with your tune.

Makes things clunkier. You can only get so much mechanical advance and the distributor is "dumb" it only has that to work from. I might go in and save the pennies to get a vacuum advance distributor if it we me. The 390 is WAY happier with the vacuum.

Autorestomod Manic Mechanic Gasoline Media I don’t know about distributors. You mean if one has a vacuum on their distributor, there is no mechanical advance? I’m talking about a ‘77 304 v8 in my ‘81 Jeep cj5 with ford distributor and BID ignition

That is a function of the vacuum advance. It adjusts the timing curve, giving better performance (street) and mileage.

@@AutoRestoMod i understand if its hooked to full manifold then its always pulling timming if it is connected to ported it should not pull timming at idle only under slight load then falls away 0 under both applications

It's a function of vacuum pulling the advance plates. If he's at high a RPM but not under load there is still a vacuum signal pulling on the can. If he was actually running it under load the vacuum will decrease and if it falls under where they set the can curve it will go to the 34 degrees mechanical only. Full throttle should definitely loose the vacuum can advance.

I keep hinting...he keeps ignoring...I swear it's like having kids.

Yes I have! But I don't have one. We just use the thumb method.

That's how you do it!

@@AutoRestoMod Except they should really be using a timing light! Advancing your base timing by as little as 4° to 5° can actually make some cars almost a 1/2 second faster in the quarter mile! And do you really think the human ear can tell the difference between a few degrees?

I wanted to keep it simple, something that anyone could handle. We start going in and recurving a distributor and the beginner might not try it. We might go into recurving the mechanical at a later date.

That's what I am planning on doing for my 306 build. I got a recurve kit planning on recurving the stock smog era DSII dist to be a bit more streetable with a non emission based build. Havent done it before but hopefully before I get to that stage there is a video on this page by then.

The DS-II I had, had 36 degrees of advance in the centrifugal, so when I ran 12 initial, I was at 48, not even including the vacuum advance.I had it recurved to 26, which put it at 38 with 12 initial.

@@Thirdgen83, haven't even checked mine. I got a brand new cardone dist with a steel gear to be drop in for my roller 306 short block I will be using. not sure what I will be setting my timing at. My current smog 302 I pushed up to 12* initial timing but factory spec going form memory is just 8* initial. Im tempted to do this as well on the new engine but my big thing is going from the 2100 autolite carb to a summit 600 cfm 4V carb based off the 4100 series, it has a timed vacuum port for the dist. Not sure if I want to run that as my smog 302 ran dead smooth with manifold vacuum but switching to ported the engine ran horrible and no tuning could get it to run smooth. In looking at the instructions with the tune up kit I got, I am thinking of setting up my all in by 3,000 rpm even though the paperwork recommends 2,500 rpm. This is a truck and I am not sure if I want full mechanical/vacuum advance when on the highway between 60 and 75 mph.

Not what we're telling you at all. Check it. Make SURE that your all in is good. The only thing that you don't have in the scenario is a points ignition.

@@AutoRestoMod ok thx

They (Engine builder) ALSO says to set total timing first?? That is the most backwards thing I have ever heard. In other words rev the engine up to 3500 rpm, set 34 degrees on the balancer to the timing pointer, and tighten the distributor. If either one of the advances is not set correctly, you're already in the hole IMHO.

Okay, just checked my vacuum can on my distributor. It was 14 turns pretty much stop to stop, and was 2.5-3 from all the way clockwise. I turned it to about 7 turns, the middle, and it seems to be a little smoother off idle, and didn't do the 1500 rpm shake/miss it was doing before. It still chuffs when you quickly hit the throttle, but I have a new 35 squirter on the way. It has the stock 31 at the moment. If it doesn't fix it, then I guess I need to keep searching, and can put the 31 back in it, and get the carb looked at... Overall though, it seems smoother at part throttle.

3/32nds. Sorry it ook a bit, I had to dig it out of the box and "find" it via testing.

Sorry we confused you

No you turn the idle mixture screws to effect idle richness.

Why use a ratchet? I like seeing Cam get shocked. Tach hooks up according to the instructions that come with the cam. Usually black to ground, green to negative on the coil, and red would go to switched 12 or a dash light circuit. Obviously we aren't using the red wire for the dash light. The vacuum gauge hooks to the intake manifold vacuum tree on the intake or firewall.

LOL

Jay Con Connect the red + lead of the meter to the - side of the coil and the black meter lead to a ground. Start engine, turn the meter to dwell and it should be at 30. Used points 28. If your not where you want to be then with an allen key, turn clockwise to decrease dwell and counterclockwise for more dwell. Then set your timing. If you have a 6 cyl, with engine turned OFF, you need to pop off the dist cap and using a screwdriver turn the adjustment screw clockwise to close points for less dwell or counterclockwise to increase dwell.

Keep it up John and I will hire you to answer tech questions on here! 🤔👍

@@AutoRestoMod Ya know when your a gear head and know a few things or two, you can't help but comment. Been a GH since 1973. Wow, time flies.

@@AutoRestoMod When you've been a gear head since 1973, it's hard to resist.

Id'go with what ever works best. Try both. Tune for it. See what offers the best "brain" for your car. If the distributors is aftermarket, contact their tech line and see which they like for you to use.

All engines have specifications for Max advance on the distributor.

You guys did an awesome job on explianing how.....but, didn't explain why it's important

Sorry Joe, I completely understand. shortly after this video we go lapel mics to help that. We're now 390 videos beyond that one.

Lawd, if you ain't never been shocked working in a car...you ain't worked on a car. 🤣🤣🤣

Autorestomod Manic Mechanic Gasoline Media I was raised around cars! At 8 years of age I started working at gramps auto body shop sweeping the floor and taking out the trash etc...my first car was a 1966 mustang convert. Last week I installed a timing chain on my 69 Pontiac firebird... Today I bought a 5.3 LS engine to build this winter so you could say I have worked on a car or 2 or couple hundred... Just be careful when letting jr show us how it’s done is all I’m saying, electricity is to be respected!!!😂😂😂

😍

What happens if your total timing was very high and when you turn the distributor back you end up ATDC? Will you not have starting issues

We will see. There will be real world tests that need to be done. I think it might be a little too much timing. But as we said, until we get it on the street we won't know.

@@AutoRestoMod Chevy SB V8's like 36*.

Fords typically like 32 - 34 degrees of total advance. Not sure about the big blocks I think they are the same.

We did testing this weekend and it liked it. BUT we think that the carburetor might be too rich.

@@AutoRestoMod was the canisters vacuum hose be unplug to check total advance, you had your vacuum still plugged in when you checked total advance.

Which most of us have zero of. And, this way you have TWO ways.

It is really up to the vacuum can type.

Because the vacuum advance is the brains of your car.

Sometimes. It depends on the vacuum modulator

WOW!!!

Ok.

Cause I'm lazy.

We all are aren't we...even you.

Maybe I was a bit to harsh.I apologise. I grew up as a tune tech,s son in a Ford dealership. First of all one must understand what's the vacuum advance was invented as and is 4. And when they come along with ported vacuum why did they do that? These are two very important questions, and when answered, applied to the adjustment of the centrifical weights something you're calling mechanical advance I believe, and of course the infinite adjustment of the original Ford distributor Whole New World will be in front of you. The first thing I like to do is throw away mypoints. And install the duraspark Blue Chip electronic ignition genuine Ford off the shelf parts.

All my engines are set up old school, with the exception of the 1976 duraspark 2 ignition. I reach into the distributor and substitute the heavy centrifugal spring with another light one out of another distributor. This will bring in all of your centrifical timing bar around 1200 RPM. The upper distributor shaft that your rotor rides on can be replaced from distributor do a different distributor most of these are different from engine to engine and can also be put in 180 degrees from where they started. So you can bring in all your time in quicker eliminating any hesitation and limiting the total timing bye the gap cut in this upper distributor shaft. What are the achieved usually around 42 total timing, that's what I adjust the vacuum advance and going down the road under kruis conditions could have as much as 60 degrees advance. The vacuum advance is a mileage device. I can't know this for certain holding a Ford engineer could confirm what I believe but I believe ported vacuum was introduced into a two-stage diaphragm of the vacuum advance to overcome the lack of centrifugal timing in the distributor built into the distributor to accommodate the new gasoline we had in the early seventies. This is a very interesting subject but once you read up on this get in and start adjusting these parts, in my opinion you can buy over the counter great Factory components Anna just the timing infinitely.

They don't show you because some meter makers have different directions to hook them up. Follow manufacture directions.

Holy Run-on-sentence, Batman.... Punctuation is everyone's friend😉

I had a stroke reading this. If you don't understand the electrical system of a car or how the relays and solenoids work.. you probably shouldn't mess with timing. As it is an electrical system too.