They already did videos specifically how to adapt your training around the menstrual cycle

As a guy, I think that’s awesome, this channel really is a wealth of knowledge 😊

@donquikong I know and I’ve seen it but it’s long and no harm on having more from different perspectives and different women.

We've got a whole playlist of content, please check it out if you haven't already: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/paijftKjrtfTeIE.html as well as blog posts/podcasts covering almost every area we can here; latticetraining.com/blog/womens-training-series/menstrual-cycle/ if you spot anything that's missing/would be helpful let us know!

@@LatticeTraining thank you. They are really good but a bit long, very anecdotal. Nothing yet around menopause (peri and post). One of the videos mentioned them and that they are working on getting more videos on that. I was just wondering for something short, like this video, with tips rather than a conversational video.

Kinda falls under the third point, but I agree there's a lot of value to this

This x100, whenever my gym sets harder boulders (V10+) I always give them a try for shits and giggles. No I’ve never done one, but before I couldn’t even hold myself on the starts, and now I can do that and alittle more sometimes.

They said this lol

@@sampsonliao2946 yes their third mistake is just about that. It is worded as "not trying hard climbs". I just wanted to add the grades dimension, because it is so different from country to country, from gym to gym. Some things graded "too low", some are "way too high" etc. Just not engaging in this conversation and learn from the problem is a mindset for achieving higher highs.

I disagree. Even climbs you eventually manage to do often feel quite impossible at first and you only really learn from them (and finally manage to do them) by putting in some good tries. Are you going to do that on something which is 3 or 4 grades above your personal best? What’s the point of trying moves you are not even close to being able to do? Of course I’m not saying you mustn’t try harder stuff, I just don’t think it’s very valuable. It might be a bit different for lead climbing where a 7a climber might be able to do all the moves on a 7b+ but the challenge is in doing them all in one go. Here you can still learn valuable things even if you have to shout “take” once or twice or have to cheat to clip the quickdraws.

Could you please add ways to make these fun.

tbh if you don't find training fun, just don't do it! just climb however it brings you joy 😄@@garronfish8227

Yup, would love to see more on technique drills! I've done an awful lot of silent feet and hand hovers.

As long as you're doing some "work" at more than 80% of your maximum capacity, and limiting rest periods to max. 5 minutes you'll be making progress. So if you just want to climb and not worry about what's optimal, then do that.

@@FrilloTeslar Problem is, people generally will never get above 80% capacity when just climbing, especially indoors, and especially only doing new boulders you think will be fun.

@@La0bouchere If you feel super pumped after a short bouldering problem and are unable to attempt again with success right away, that's a pretty solid indicator that you have been working at a high intensity. You will get stronger if you do this.

This is good topic/thing to consider. We often explore the "WHY you want to climb/train?" with our training clients because this drives motivation and consistency. How you train can look very different based on your WHY and training can feel fun if you challenge yourself in the right way.

Here's your viewing list for the evening then! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ncxkl8aYl8-WeIk.htmlsi=e8HQBxAxpyVtlcPx kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rMd8eaZi1a3Df30.htmlsi=zn3J8Gpmugi4Anv8 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gpZ1dquFzMmYhIE.htmlsi=LA3Bte7zPrGd7HYH

I've been climbing for a little less than a year now, so I don't have lots of experience, but I've learned I need to pace myself. Because when I started topping my first 6a boulders, from then on I just wanted to climb "harder" problems and progress as fast as possible, so as a result my elbows really started hurting. I normaly climb twice a week now and I try to have one hard session and one easy session, focusing more on lower grades and working on my technique and maybe doing more slabs so my arms can get some rest. Also a proper warm up and streching before and after the session helped a lot. I still get pains sometimes, but that's usually because I get way to excited about new boulders and "forget" that I was suppose to have an easy session that day haha

i had exactly this problem. my experience is pretty anecdotal, but i did research on how to fix it and i found the following worked. in fact, some of what i did was taken from a lattice training video on golfer's elbow, which is the elbow problem i had. first, if it hurts really badly, i would recommend taking a break for about a week, maybe two. i found that doing a few sets of a small wrist exercise at the start of every climbing session prevented injury early on. i would rest my arm over a bench facing up, with my wrist a few inches past the end of the bench, and doing sets of curls of a 15 pound or so dumbbell using only my wrist, in addition to extremely light hangboarding (maybe 30% body weight) to prepare my fingers and forearms for climbing staved off the pain. i found that going consistently for maybe an hour-hour and a half every few days helped as well. it is paradoxical that you need to START your climbing by working out the muscles that are already getting strained by overuse from climbing, but it works.

I found my tennis/golf elbow went away on its own after a few months but I have a friend that had it become a chronic issue requiring physio. If you can afford it, a physio consult might be worthwhile! There are also various resources out there with rehab exercises that may help. Otherwise, make sure you're warming up your elbows before climbing. A few steady pull-ups are good - use a band or a pulley system for assistance if you need. If it's not painful, hanging with your elbows locked off at 90 degrees and lowering yourself with control is a good one too (you could use assistance on this exercise too). Try to avoid sudden loads on your tendons while climbing if they're giving you issues too - maybe stay away from dyno boulders for a while and work on climbing a little more statically if you have a tendency to throw for every hold. I've found over time my tendons have gotten used to it and I can get away with throwing myself around sometimes 🙂

I'd recommend the channel Hooper's Beta for this sort of thing. He has loads of really good videos regarding various injuries, including what you describe.

haha yeah, sit starts can take a hike.

As a 11 months newbie can add pinches and some technique like heel hook and toe hook.

Red point V8 on the slab and just V6 on overhang walls

This, and for me a second reason is to be able to get more out of a climbing session.

That's no bad thing, V7 is good and hard! Climbing is all about failure - continue to fail but learn from your failures. Lets face it; if you can do it, it wasn't so bad anyway!

Fully understand. We try to strike a balance of "playing the KZfaq game" and creating valued content without annoying people. We've stayed away from click-bate only to see a video we spent a long time on underperform. When we change the title, thumbnail and style it immediately reaches more people. So we have to ask ourselves if it's worth avoiding only for our work to go less far. I know it can be cheesy but thanks for your comment. Hopefully you get some value and we'll continue to work on our presenting style.

@@LatticeTraining Thanks for your answer! I do understand how the game works I don't hold grudges. My issue is mostly not in the clickbaiting itself really. I think we've reached a saturation point of climbing training content online and now everything has to be presented as the next groundbreaking thing. When so many tips and analysis gets pumped out, I feel the message that is delivered to viewers is that training is super complicated and you're missing out and wasting time on useless things. Also, inevitably some of those tips or content are going to be redundant, or contradictory, or a stretch (not your content necessarily, I'm speaking in general about climbing content online). I just wish people would sometimes weigh how much a given tip or training tool is actually relevant and present training as something that need not be complicated to be effective. Personally, I've kind of lost trust in these types of training content and stopped watching them except if I'm looking for it specifically. But I might be alone in this. Sorry again for the "hate", I do think you're pioneering the field and I appreciate you!