thats why you should use a wooden mallet only on things such as froes or wedges, the mallet takes the beating and your wedge doesnt form a lip to catch.

Yep. I still have a piece of a wedge in my left leg. Actually it was a "maul" head, or as we call them here in the Southeast a "Go-devil" head being used as a wedge struck with a 10lb hammer. Ever since then when I was about 15 years old, I've been somewhat more cautious about striking hardened steel with hardened steel.

Thanks for sharing your experience! The old-time term for that is “dressing” your tool to remove the mushroomed edge. Imagine if that chip had wound up in your eye instead of your leg!

I remember using one of those to knock down the weeds on the edge of my grandmother’s farm field about 40 years ago. I mentioned to her that they now made gas powered weed wackers which would make the job a whole lot easier. She was an old school child of the depression- “if you don’t want to use the weed whip than you can hand pull them instead”.

Grandpa called it a yo-yo.

Not everyone replaces a handle the way I do. First, pick a handle with the grain, (lines between soft & hard, Summer quick growth and Winter slow growth), …with the grain running front to back, not side to side or diagonally. You will think I'm full of shit, there ARE no handles with the grain running front to back. You're right. Handles used to be made by Americans who understood tools. Today, handles are made by morons who don't have a clue-but nonetheless-there are 360 degrees in a circle, and an excellent handle being within a range of about 6 degrees, they accidentally make a good handle, (360 ÷6=60),about one out of 60 handles correctly. The grain should be tight, 1/32" apart is better than 1/4" apart. Make sure the handle is right for the hammer. Note: if the hammer handle is Oval, and the opening in the hammer is rectangular, there is a good chance that you have the wrong handle. Once again, that was what passes as humor. SHEESH! Do I have to explain everything? You need a wooden wedge, and 1 or 2 metal wedges with teeth. They should come with the handle, but don't forget the, 'morons who know nothing about what they are making building the tools for those who do,' principle. I use wood glue. Saw the old handle close to flush with the hammer, & use a punch to punch out the old handle. You can save/use the wedges from the old handle. Punch from bottom to top. The wedges spread, so if you try to drive it out from the top, it's like a semi on a bike path. From the bottom, you are driving from the narrow end toward the wider end. Buff the inside with a bit of Emory cloth if you like. I was always in too much of a hurry. Start the handle into the head. Don't start the handle into the top of the head. That passes for humor. Tap it lightly so the handle fills the hole. Pour some wood glue in the top of the hammer head, smear it along the sides. You are not gluing the hammer handle to the head. You are providing filler so the finished handle makes uniform contact with the head. This will minimize the handle loosening later. Note: if you use your hammer with replaced handle for a couple of years at sea level, then do a job at 10,000 feet, your handle is going to loosen up. Don't worry about it unless your new home is at 10,000 feet. It will tighten up when you go back to your cottage in Santa Cruz. NOW, drive the handle all the way on the head. Be mindful that it is the right attitude. It could be leaning forward, not 90°, or it could be leaning back. You may decide you want it canted forward or back. You measured the handle well; it is the right handle for your hammer. Drive it on, and the base of the head may be digging a bit into the handle when it is fully seated. You can trim it with a knife later. The handle is protruding out the top, glue is coming out, wipe it. You are satisfied. Take the handle wood wedge, a little glue, drive it into the sawed curf running from front to back on the head area of the handle. Drive it until the handle tightens in the head. Take a hack saw, and cut the protruding handle at the top of the head. You will scuff up the top of your hammer. You don't care. It is not your $500 stepping out shoes, it's a tool, function over form. You will look at the scratch marks from the hacksaw for the rest of your life. You don't care. Cut flush with the top of the head, you get the metal wedges. A topic not broached with the wooden wedge, you will also drive the metal wedges, which implies that you own a second hammer. I have over a dozen hammers, not including sledges, single jack & double jack, axes, mauls, etc. Place the metal wedges carefully. Some wedges are narrow, and can be driven perpendicular. Some are wider, and have to be driven diagonally. Finish with a punch, and drive the wedges flush. Consider the width at the widest point. Once you drive the metal wedges, wipe up any glue with a damp cloth or paper towel. Don't use the hammer for at least 24 hours, preferably a bit longer. (e.g.; fix on Friday, drive nails on Monday). Consider a cake of bees wax, rubbed on the handle, will keep it from slipping from your hand. If you like this, keep track of me. I will soon begin a channel, and you may get something from what I offer. Best, Tom

Andrew Fuentes that was my favorite part of this video!

I was thinking that looked worse than the monster maul.

I bet the new guy draws that duty!

Thanks Brian!

legit

it's the people who tell you how confident or great they are you have to watch out for, and mostly are full of it. its called the dunning Kruger effect en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning%E2%80%93Kruger_effect

The settlers

Not you, you're just a troll.

@@peterellis5626 You're a troll lol

Pay it forward!

check out my channel for videos like this!

Thanks for watching!