Not the reason those Motors fail. They fail because they have a sticker completely wrapped around them containing the Heat. Remove the sticker and all sticker residue and the motor will last for a long time. These motors need a heatsink not a sweater.

The best thing you can do with the stock motor is rip it out and throw it away.

👍 Great tip and perfectly explained. This should save a lot of motors out there.

I made a copper sleeve with cooling fins for my motor. It barely gets warm anymore. Even just a piece of copper touching the motor will dissipate quite a bit of heat.

Thanks. Gotta check mine, I blew out two motors already with new wheels and tires I bet this is why.

you got me curious about them motors . I run dual barrage motors in my scx24 I always looking for something new. Great video for beginners too .

I burned out my stock servo because I overtightened some of the steering components 😫 Live and learn. The emax servo I dropped in is far better, anyway.

I’ve ran into this and also ran into the pinion binding due to in and out excessive movement I re shimmed them and it freed up the whole driveline

It's better to not use Loctite on your wheel nuts. If you don't have enough threads to engage the nylon locking insert and the nuts come off on their own, simply install the nuts in reverse with the nylon inserts going on first.

Just get the rid of stock axles and buy some Injora +4 ones. They’re not perfect either but this problem do not exist even if you tight the bolt a lot. I got mine with +4 axles, Yeahrun CVDs l, axles hex extensions with 45g brass wheels and injora tires. Changed the original crap with a 050 66T and runs like a charm. Stock axles are junk. They won’t let you turn as it should and put extra stress on the already underpowered motor. Let’s face the truth: stock SCX24 need a truckload of upgrades to run fine.

hoe simpel kan het zijn! dank je wel voor de tip... ik had ook 1 wiel te strak

Thank you so much 👍💯 i

Nice video, to make sure I understand all variables, does it matter if it’s stock wheels? Stock 7mm plastic hubs or brass upgrades?

What about the escs going out ive had two go out on me

Nice

I like this video I didn't know this I will check all mine

Has anyone had ring and pinion issues? didn’t finish first battery and the rear axle is locked up.

got one today, did great for 20mins then died. made like the battery was low. so I charged it back up and afterward tried again. it barely made it out the front door. no issue on the lights or servo just the drive motor

I'm late to this, but you just saved me a hour of diagnosing my binding issues (great vid)

So I was climbing and it just stopped and had a smell now no throttle just steering! Did I burn it? Mines brand new

I just got my self two of these Nylint 1/6 Scorpion Radio Controlled yellow Jeeps brand new in the box. Unfortunately both are not working i charged the batteries i put bran new 9v battery in the remotes but i can not get them to work at all. Both remotes turn on but i can not get any commands to work nothing is responding even i changed the channels still no respond what so ever its driving me crazy they are brand new. Does any body know whats going on here please? any tips to fix them will help.

HahahHa I need all the luck I can get! Thanks man!

I did this Always i mean why Not IT speaks For IT self

You heard him! Check your nuts people!

Any toolkit you would recommend for entry crawlers?

Man I was going to order a bunch of treal stuff but I think I want one of your motors and some beadlocks and tires

Good to know!🏴‍☠️

Thank you for this! I noticed mine was binding up while driving, and after watching this video I backed off the front wheel nuts and it drives smooth as butter now. T Y S M

I thought this was my issue, but its not whenever I turn my car bogs a little bit, slowing down and speeding up. It did this fully stock.

I recently got a deadbolt 1/24 I put 40 grams each rims on her after some play time now she wants to go reverse in neural . Is this first signs of motor burnout ?

Is there any truth to this......cause I feel like if I ask a rc group they will say as long as it's not gorilla torque tight it has nothing to do with the motor failure.

that's what she said -forgive me -

I have tried this but my wheels will fall off about every 5 minutes.

Step 1. Remove the brushed motor. Step 2. Install a brushless motor and electronic speed control to match it. Step3. Never worry about it again unless you want more torque or top end😂😂😂😂

I’ve burned like 2 of these motors already lol.

I prefer to have loose nuts. The bottom line is Axial is just plain bottom of the barrel junk. No quality control and the cheapest parts are used. So far 3 trucks and all 3 have had something wrong out of the box. No more Axial for me. My Panda Hobby trucks has run longer and stronger than all of my Axial combined. I paid for a product to use not be repaired or sent back.

Check your nuts people !

if someone don't know this kind of think, he must stay away from the mechanic....

Check your nuts people,

Burnt out 19 hrs after buying

I bought 150$ rc car... already changed 3x batteries, one battery charger, and now drive train motor died. For batteries and charger i spend almost another 100$ These cars ar money pit and i will never buy another one. not even thinking to buy another motor.

if you're afraid of loctite, use nail polish