Underrated comment here!

Ok

Same bro

Thanks! It really is a great model and the surface texture helps hide the layer lines.

Thanks; it was a lot of fun to print!

Thanks! Your time lapses look great too; I have also been experimenting with Octolapse more recently; it is a lot of fun!

@@shawngano yeah it's such a handy feature I haven't played around with it too much I've been triggering my DSLR with a wireless switch on my X axis. Keen to see some more of your vids keep it up!

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks!

It really is

Thanks! Yeah some post-processing could really help - though I am still learning how to do that properly. Just a mention in the credit and a link are good enough and you can use the video. The more people that get interested in 3D printing the better and we can all learn from each other!

Great! Looking forward for more such amazing videos. Sharing is good.

I used two cameras to film this video one was a GoPro and the other one was a standard webcam (which is the video shown at around the 0:28 mark). I have learned since making this video that you have to be sure your webcam is set to it's highest setting and then they actually take pretty decent video (this can be done in Octoprint via the user config file if you use Octoprint). You may try adding a fan by your Sony to see if that helps it run longer too.

Yes!

Wood filled PLA would have been a great choice (next time!). I used a orange-brown-ish PLA instead that looks a little wood like.

file / model: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2014307

Programs: www.prusa3d.com/prusaslicer/ or ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura

Thanks! The total print time (head and body) was around 12 hours and 32 minutes. A few more of the details, such as material and print settings, are shown at the end.

The time lapses in this video are actually not done using Octolapse -- I did these with a GoPro using different mounts. I do use OctoLapse and a different webcam now and it has so many great options and can create even better time-lapses. I am not sure about that specific camera, I would recommend checking out the OctoPrint documentation for connecting your particular camera to your Raspberry Pi / Octoprint setup (if you don't have Octoprint then that is the first step)-- next installing the Octolapse plugin should be fairly straight forward (and their website has good documentation).

@@shawngano yes, i have octoprint, octolapse, i want to learn how to use a DSLR, i have a logitech C930E right now, but i don't record videos with good image quality

@@vafpfonticiella258 Ah, I understand better now thanks! Many times the webcams default to a much lower resolution in Octoprint than they are capable of supporting (I believe it may be because older Pi's couldn't handle processing all those bits). That webcam should be able to get some good footage -- check out this guide: community.octoprint.org/t/how-can-i-change-mjpg-streamer-parameters-on-octopi/203 -- then you can specify a higher resolution (either 1280x720 or 1920x1080 would produce much better results if your camera and pi can handle it).

Thanks - this was printed at a 0.2mm layer height, 20% infill (PLA) with 3 layers top and bottom and 3 perimeter/shells.

Thanks! The printer is a Prusa i3 MK2 (kit). You can find the newer versions (the MK2S and the MK3) here: shop.prusa3d.com/en/17-3d-printers

This was printed in PLA and you are right for this print the enclosure wasn't required. I built the enclosure for many reasons a couple being: (1) Even PLA prints better with an enclosure as the cooling is more consistent especially with drafts from the air conditioner in the summer (2) it is a lot quieter in the enclosure, and (3) it give me the option to print ABS or other materials that I need to vent outside (I made a fan and vent outlet). (4) it keeps the dust off the machine when not in use.

I am waiting on the infernal revenue service and I am going to buy a Tevo Tornado. Lots of good information right in about three sentences THANK YOU! I have been a carpenter for a lot of years so it looks like when I get a second, after the printer gets here, I will have to get some thin plywood and plexi and build me a box (thinking further with three dogs, and their ability to get into anything not on top of the fridge, it is probably NOT an option! LOL). Thinking further with the tornado the spool holder usually sits on the power box, should I make the box bigger to hold it (which ads the problem of cooling the power supply) or find a way to mount the spool/holder in the enclosure?

3D printing is a lot of fun I think you will enjoy it! (though it can be a little frustrating at the beginning but once you get the hang of getting the first layer to stick properly the fun will begin!) Some people make their enclosures big enough to fit their spools, but I didn't. I made a spool holder and put it on top and just have a small slit in the top to feed the filament through and down to the printer; it has been working well for me the past year. My enclosure is built more like a cabinet and I have a drawer to hold the tools I use frequently and all the filament in the main storage section. It keeps it all a little more contained but it is rather large that way. The two things I really like about the design I came up with are that (1) the door to the printer is slanted and I placed magnets in the frame so I can just open the door by lifting it up and it stays open and (2) I installed LED lights all around the top - the extra light is really helpful. Here are some pictures of the enclosure and spool holder as I am sure that description is a bit hard to follow. gano.name/shawn/3dPrinterEnclosure/

What brand is it??

Definitely! Prusa makes great printers and slicing software!

I used one filament color. The total print is about 110 grams (or 11% of a spool).

The body took about 5h 30mins, and the head took another 5 hours to print. Overall about 130grams of material (PLA plastic) were used; so it probably cost about $3 to make.

I attached the camera to the bed with a slightly modified (to fit my camera) version of this: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1704137 . If you use Octoprint you should also check out the Octolapse plugin; you can create some really nice time-lapses that don't require the camera to be attached to the bed and still get nice and smooth video.

Ha! Yeah that would have been much better! (Too bad it is copyrighted)

Hi Michael - I am not a lawyer but I'll give you my interpretation of what I think is allowed. There are really two parts to the question. The first is about the model itself and the second is about the character. For the model itself the license is quite clear the artist who created the model goes by the name Byambaais and released the model under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial - No Derivatives license. Meaning you can not sell it for money, if you print it you need to give the artist attribution (don't claim it as your own work) and you can't make any modifications to the model -- but that license does allow you to print it for your own use. The second part of the question deals with the Baby Groot character and likeness. I would think that this classifies as "fan art" -- which some consider fair use (meaning you can print it) and some consider as derivative work (meaning it probably violates copyright law), but in either case you still couldn't sell the model or prints. But printing the model seems to come down to if it is fair use or a derivative. There is a lot of interesting debate out there so I urge you to continue researching the topic.

Can I follow you on Instagram

Copper Colored Polylactic Acid (PLA) -- see the end of the video for details.

I believe for most of it I used a GoPro Hero 5, though for a few shots I also used a Logitech C270 (webcam connected with OctoPrint via a Raspberry Pi).

The body took about 5h 30mins, and the head took another 5 hours to print. So in total around 10 and a half hours.

Who invited you here meathead?

U talk to me in a more respectful tone

At the very end I did give the print times: 7 hours 33 minutes for the body, and 4 hours 59 minutes for the head (total of 12 hours and 32 minutes). It could be printed faster but I was going for a higher print quality).

@@shawngano thanks.

@@GrupoAjizalTV You're welcome!

It is a Prusa i3 mk2

Nope! In fact I have something printing right now. I just haven't created any videos lately.

Hi Alberto - the body used about 70 grams of PLA filament and the head used 60 grams. As filament varies in price -- I would roughly say that comes out to about $3 if you are using decently quality PLA.

@@shawngano Hi Shawn, thanks for your answer. I have other questions, could make it in private?

@@B3toman sure; I think KZfaq still has a way to send messages directly

I am Groot!

None needed! This model was well designed to allow printing without any supports!

The 3D model is for non-commercial uses only; so the 3D prints can't be sold. However, if you know someone with a 3D printer, the amount of plastic required to print one doesn't cost much at all.

Approximately 150mm when assembled.

@@shawngano Thanks, from the video it looked much bigger to me. my guess was 30cm

20% (most of the main slicing parameters are listed near the end of the video if you want more details)

What was your infill and travel time? My printer would take about 5 hours or so to each part of this with 0.1mm layer, 15% infill and travelling at 40mm/s

@@DamienBoath 12% infill, 200mm/s travel time, 120mm/s print time, 3000mm/s^2 print acceleration, 5000mm/s^2 travel acceleration, 35mm/s^3 jerk.

I have to mention that my machine is a delta style printer, own design (firmware, hardware and mechanics).

@@LuxBacelo *golf clap

No; but you can link to this video.

The material is PLA, it is a copper color from Prusa : shop.prusa3d.com/en/filament/76-copper-pla-filament-1kg.html

Thanks! Ha, yeah - I have noticed that there always seems to be a few thumbs down votes on most videos :)

ya me to it stinks

Ok

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