For those who are interested. I own a 2005 Crown Victoria P71 Interceptor. My car exhibited no symptoms at all when this sensor failed. I was on a 600 mile trip and pulled into a BP gas station for fuel. When I came out to start the car it would crank just fine, but no start. I could hear the fuel pump energize, so I tested for spark. There was no spark at all. The 3 bolts that hold AC compressor must be loosened all the way to remove and install the new sensor. The sensor is over 2 inches long and that's why. My instrument cluster doesn't have a Tachometer, so I saw no fluctuation in RPM's prior to failure. The car was running great.

It also may say that the oil pressure is low without Beeing low... that because it also can't measure the oil correctly

If you change your crankshaft sensor and it’s 3 pin or more make sure you replace it with the same exact part. The reason for that is different manufacturers make the sensor different and will cause crank no start or start and cut off

GREAT EXPLAINATION.

So does a bad crank shaft sensor as well as a cam shaft sensor affect the rpm gauge fluctuating & the shut down of your car

Got a 2006 Nissan Altima. Camshaft sensor was replaced. Mechanic said if it don't start it's the crankshaft sensor. Can't wait to get rid of it.

If your crankshaft sensor has a visible "pin" (some are in a sealed body) then carbon builds up over time and interferes with the signal..simply clean off carbon and your good to go..first symptom would be probably unnoticeable (at first) slight loss of power..then starting problems...make cleaning a routine job every few months.

I do my car work myself . Take your car in to a macanic they trick you to have more work done that is not needed

Have a jeep patriot it has pretty much all the same problems. Wanted to know does it affect ETC even after changing throttle body bc the light is flashing.

thx after few vidoes i know the problem because almost all of them are happening two years i replacing spark plugs for no reason...

I have an 07 Lexus gs350 and I have a check engine light on. The cars rpm’s fluctuate during idling and just recently it did not start at all. Once it cooled down I got it to start I read the codes and I have a misfire in cylinder 1 and another code for crankshaft position sensor. Is it most likely the csps? Any help would be appreciated.

I got a 2017 Kia Forte LX from Drivetime. Seems it was sitting around too long. The car seemed so perfect. Ran great up until I took it off the lot officially.-- I drove through a plaza slowly stepped on the gas and nothing, the car was off. The oil light and battery light came on. I was able to easily crank the car back up as if it never happened. Then it did it again 8min later. No codes showed up when the dealer looked at it. And he was just as confused lol smh. Do you think this is the fix it needs

Sorry sir my Opel cors Vauxhall c is doing acxatly that I have changed the crank sensor

I bought a honda accord 2008 (2nd hand). Today the check engine light is blinking, and when i press the accelerator, the speed is not increasing. Is it a major issue? Can you please suggest me what can i do? Thank you.

Yes stalls while diving intermittently no check light no wiring temp cold light turns on before stall sometimes catches itself and doesbt stall fuel is sometimes wasted It hesitates like somethings stuck

I have an opel astra 2.0 and it does all 7 of these!

Doesn’t anyone know about Hyundai sonata 2016 ? My car is going but it’s not going as fast when I accelerate it’s actually going at a certain speed it doesn’t go faster I already replaced the cover in this video and it was good for a few days then the light came back on and it started going slow again like it’s forcing itself? Doesn’t anyone have any idea ?? I need help no one knows what it is ??

Hate all this computer crap

will service engine light most likely go on first before a crank or cam sensor fails completely and leaves you with a no start at all situation? thanks

Hmm, a tps, IAC valve, Maf a dirty fuel filter, PVC a fuel injector or a dirty air filter can throw a p0171 and a p0174 can throw these code nothing like having a 2 or 4 barrel holly powering you car.

Ok so im gonna describe my symptoms and hopefully youll see these and let me know if theyre familiar. Truck runs beautifully when cold until about 20-30 minutes of driving or probably WOT. Then it loses power, backfires through intake, stalls completely and even worse if you give it full throttle. If you feather the pedal really fast itll "jump" its way a little farther, but eventually it completely stops. It will still idle sometimes, roughly, and sometimes it will slowly die. If it starts to die when parked i can feather the pedal and keep it running for a bit. Weirder though is that if you let it sit idling after this happens it will clear up sometimes and youre able to drive it another mile or two, but ultimately does it again and eventually it just wont run until it sets and cools off. Ive changed plenum gasket, throttle body gasket, upper intake gasket, pcv valve, some vacuum lines, oil pressure switch, plugs, wires, IAC, TPS. No real change when doing the starter fluid test for vacuum leaks. Only does it at WOT. Scan codes are p0171 P0505 P0123 Any suggestions?

i replaced my crank sensor but the engine light is still on and shows the same code p0016

Kia sorento