You could build twice as much cells in the space that the TP4056 and the B0505S take, for the price that they cost. Edit: I also wonder what happens if some of the B0505S would fail. If a BMS fails, the cells are just not balanced. If the B0505S fails, who knows what happens? Maybe you just break a TP4056. Maybe you break your charger. Maybe...

Use separate wall adapters for each modules. I have made a video of it in action :D If efficency is an issue go for TP5000

@@karlsprojects4639 The idea is that the device (project) is 12v but can be charged by USB. In other words, it has to look and function as a normal power bank to a typical user.

does it worked??

True about the poweful adapter, but once you start adding more cells in parallel it becomes faster, at that point your only limited to how fast you can charge 1 battery at 400 milliamps, provided you can provide enough current to all. Theres 2w versions so can do 400milliamps. Say you got 91 cells for a 13s7p battery pack thats 36 amps combined @ 4.2v giving 151.2w of charging power, compared to a standard 48v escooter charger does only 2 amps so 96w of charging power. At that point youre faster then a standard charger and you got perfect balancing so a longer lasting and more efficient pack, even more so with that modest charge current. Only tricky part is finding a 4.2v 50amp charger... I guess you can use one of those 50 amp buck convertes , take a 48v charger down to 4.2v with that converter and theres youre 36amp charger perfecly charge balancing your battery in a couple hours. Now you got 15-20% more capacity/life thanks to this method perhaps.

I had the same question. I guess it would work but would like confirmation?

You can more easily find the B0505S-2W but they are a bit more expensive than the 1W version.

Yes I'm doing same but I can't make circuit diagram perfectly that reverse Current flows according to me, thank you

Oh, after connecting the AC inputs in parallel and drill a hole in the box and run a cord thru the hole and solder the cord then cut out a spot for the 5S male then solder each neg and pos coming from the TP4056 to each pin and epoxy that piece in place a put the top on your case, done...

Nope. Pretty much all 3s BMS require all the batteries to be balanced. i.e. they must be new, from the same batch and have the same internal resistance. Not very useful if you are trying to re-use batteries from a laptop.

Just to lower the charging amperege from 1A to 1/5 of it! 200mA. Buying a 3S BMS or charger is much cheaper than doing it this way even if you use three diods you still have to use three tp4056 chargung boards instead of one BMS!!! Whats the benefit of this?!!!

@@ImaginaPower I think the advantage is that it runs off of 5V USB power. I'm looking for a cheap solution for a 2S battery pack?

You can take a look at my next video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mah9Y8SGrL2cZ4U.html

darkkevind1978 hi you will get a diode forward voltage loss, approx 0.5-0.8v

Yes, you'd have to up the input voltage slightly...

Hey did you ever try this method of using diodes on the negative input terminal? In theory it seems like it might work.

It's really interesting... So just a single negative wire connected to 3 1N4001S 1A Silicon Rectifier, connected to each negatives inputs of each TP4056 ? Right ? Then I could have 1A charging ?

Just to clarify, which direction do the diodes go? Assuming the cathode end is on the negative terminal of the power supply, and anode is connected to the TP4056 board...

for efficiency and cost, BMS is better in all point! The unic advantage here, are the led (red/Blue) to know the statut of each cell individually (charging or charged)

Here's a diy solution using a battery low voltage alarm you can get for cheap. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Z6yjZ7aXu7nXfJ8.html

Did you ever try this?

oh jeez... the b0505s wiring diagram is too complicated for me.

I think its a great idea, can you make a 40 minute video detailing everything step by step and maybe adding lots of animations ? just kidding

NO! the tp4056 data sheet states you need to isolate the load before charging.

I would suggest the TP5100, Voltlog did a video about it: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e6xgasymppyymWg.html&ab_channel=VoltLog#

Sure! As long as they're all isolated.

Its simple.... Connect each battery + and - to each charging board. The batteries are connected in series. Here each battery is charged seperately.

The ground are connected on each side of the TP4056, so you would be shorting the cells otherwise.

I should watch this video, I have short one of the module by solder paralel input. :(

I broke that ~10 moduls

@@hubi321321 I burned 3 modules simultaneously and could not figure out why you can balance one cell at a time, but not all 3 from the same power source. I thought I was so clever soldering the units to each other with no wires, etc. I now realize that it was the battery side that was the problem. Each module sees a 3S circuit and burns. I appreciate the explanation even if the solution is not practical.

@@tedhancock68 I made a charger using cheap (less then 1$) 5V 2A power supplies and modules from video. I can charge up to 8S cells using this.

I just posted a second video, I hope it helps: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qNaCjLF-17ynm2Q.html

+BIBIwood - is it as good as balance chrger like 'imax b6' or others bro.. so which one is good choice for me? responding, plz:)!

You will be able to charge the first battery rest 2 will catch fire. The 3S configuration puts the 3 cells in series. So the Isolators remove the common ground condition. if you have 3 different sources fro each circuit without a common ground it will work without the isolatorr.

Yes. But with independently isolated chargers, one can rearrange the battery configuration dynamically ... with relays or such. A little surprised he did not pile 5 of those B0505S-1W or a couple 400ma isolators in parallel for each charger. Sadly these devices are only 70-80% efficient, as they probably boost-buck.

Can you run 5 of these in parallel? They wont burn? I wonder if they make a module that puts out more watts for this same project so you can easily and cheaper to make to get that 1 amp out...

This is why this is better. A BMS or a balance charger will slightly over charge a cell then use that to transfer the excess amount to the under charged cell which lowers the life of the cells, but this will bring each cell up to its max and turn off so there's no balancing act. When a BMS dies it takes the other cells with it and will shut down at the worst time possible. There's another way using 3 or 4 phone chargers you might have laying around. Use a 18650 battery pack with wires for each battery, connect the first battery negative to the next battery positive use heatshrink and solder them together. Optional also wire in a JST for a 2S, 3S, 4S and on to the solder points so you can connect a battery checker then solder a TP4056 in parallel to each battery, done. You need isolation and this is shown here and you'll also get isolation using separate phone chargers and you will get the full 1 amp from each TP4056 so three will put out 3 amps and 4 amps for a 4S and on. Now you will have better battery life, no balancing act and no waiting. You can solder each terminal for the AC part of the chargers in a series directly to the posts use heatshrink, glue them side by side using epoxy or a hotsnot glue gun so they don't flop around and put it all in project box. use double face tape to mount the TP4056's to the backside of the battery holder and mount that upside down.

Does the 3S BMS you mention have cell balancing? Can you point it out if so?

Not all BMS does balancing and when it does at that price, it's just simple top balancing by slowly discharging. I did see a 2s charger that claims to do "equalization", not sure if there are larger version of it or if it works..

When the battery is charging?

Those "BMS" boards only provide protection and (sometimes) balancing. They don't regulate charging. But there are a few options for charging series packs. The easiest is to just buy a plug-in charger for the appropriate voltage and current, the listing will say it's for lithium and the unit should have an LED that changes colour to indicate charge status. If you have a DC source of several volts above pack voltage (like an old laptop brick, or solar panels), there are buck converter chargers: SY6912 modules do 1 to 3S (but smoke came out of mine so I don't trust them so much) (voltage set by jumpers, current by removing shunt resistors); MAX745 costs more, but does 1S to 4S and can be configured with dipswitches and trimpots. Then there are step-up chargers that work from USB C; charging power will be limited, but they'll work anywhere you can plug into 5V USB. Search for "2s 3s 4s type-c charger"; they come in fixed voltage and current configurations. Add a "BMS" and you have the same functionality as the circuit in this video for less money.

@@BassBinDevil Indead there is much more option nowaday, vid and need is from 2016... Since chinese minion did there magic lol I back bought few TP5100 module (2S), that are close to those you refered to. They constatly update there tech with newer IC and stuff... Since, I only needed 12V from 18650s once, for the battery conversion of my cordless drill , to lithium, and went with 3S BMS 20A, cause 10A got burned dead. 18650s choosed with approxi same capacity. I charge the battery once per month and it is fine. Mostly use TP5046.

He said 250ma per cell so at most this should take 10hrs if using 2500mah cells. Pretty slow. It only takes a 750ma charger to go full speed like this, which should be any power brick phone charger usb. If you charge from a computer usb port it may only be 500ma and go even slower.

You proberly didnt use Isolatet individual powersuplys like BW0505S-1W. They must be used or you have a Short

@@Enderkruemel well if i just knew that earlier

What isolated voltage is needed for each tp scheme?

@@IgorSwxy you need 5vdc in 1amp per module. But you must use 1 psu per 1 module otherwise it will just toast everything and it won't work anymore

To lower cc

One of three things: 1. You messed up positive and negative so the battery is trying to discharge through the board instead of charge. 2. The charger board is damaged and is supplying too much current. 3. The battery you're trying to charge is too low a capacity for the default charging current supplied by the TP4056 charging board. You can alter the charge current of the TP4056 by changing a single resistor on the board (the resistor does not have to be surface-mount although of course the board will be more compact with one). There's a table online of charge currents and the resistor values to use for each. Make sure the cell charges at no more than half its C rating (eg. for 1000mAh, charge at no more than 500mA).

@@melkiorwiseman5234 I got a question... Did he pulled out the R3 resistor and replace it with 5k, or did he just paralleled it? 🤔